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majda107

All In One 3D Printer test

by majda107 Nov 19, 2017
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how long does it say this test will take to print for everyone

Cura says 4 hours 58 minutes. 0.2 layer height, 5% infill. I think my print/travel speed is 50/150ms

With 0.1 layer height it says 8 hour 44 minutes

I have a Monoprice Mini Select and the quality of my print has gone down recently and I'm trying to figure out why.
NOTE: I DID change the hot end over to an E3D and I'm wondering if that is causing the problem.
The print quality simply isn't as "crisp" as it was.
I used to get much cleaner overhang
The vertical layer has visible separation
The Horizontal layer shows lines

Was there a setting I was supposed to change when moving over to the E3D?
If I didn't know better, I would say it was printing GREAT, but I know what it was like BEFORE!
The elephant shows the ORIGINAL print capability. (They are two different filament)

From my opinion I would say three simple reasons:

3D printers are notoriously slow. This printer promises to speed up the process significantly.
3D printed objects have visible layers which influence mechanical properties. This printer builds objects without the need for layers.
Pricing of this printer is cheaper than any other website,
https://amzn.to/2J2aPBr

From my opinion I would say three simple reasons:

3D printers are notoriously slow. This printer promises to speed up the process significantly.
3D printed objects have visible layers which influence mechanical properties. This printer builds objects without the need for layers.
material flexibility – essentially any UV resin can be used with this technique. Resins used to be proprietary and expensive, but this is quickly changing. UV resin can now be acquired for almost the same price as PLA filament. Do pay attention to different UV wavelengths that resins might require.
I bought it a few weeks ago from Amazon, after doing my research their prices are cheaper than any other website. I was actually surprised with the reviews I found online about them, that’s why I chose them, they were 100% right their 3D printers are amazing and so cheap compared to other sellers. I am very happy with my purchase, it took a few days to receive it but it was worth it, their support team helped me with all my questions and everything I needed help with.

Pricing of this printer is cheaper than any other website,
https://amzn.to/2J2aPBr

Comments deleted.

Thank you for sharing this printing test, can anyone tell me how to improve the printing quality?....please see the attached images, the printer is a Sindoh 3DWOX 1. The filament is blue PLA from Sindoh brand, I used the 3DWOX Desktop Software as Slicer, I have Simplify3D too but I noticed that the printed objects have better quality printing from the same Sindoh Desktop Software than using the Simplify3D slicer... any ideas?... Thank you...

That's brilliant. Thank you.

Should be getting my printer next week, this will probably be one of my first print jobs

By any chance, do any videos exist which go through the details and usage of this model? I would find that very helpful. I searched Youtube but did not find any. Thanks.

U just go ahead and use your slicer settigs to create a gcode. Then u print the model and inspect it real good and try to improve your slicer settings in order to get the meximum out ouf your printer.

You have for example the overhang test. Say, your 80 Degrees didnt work out well enough, you go ahead and optimize the fan settings or infill overlap percentage.

Next would be wall tolerance, maybe even the most important factor when it comes to printing fitting parts that need to fulfil a certain tolerance. If you measure (for example with calipers) that a wall is slightly to thick, you just go ahead and decrease the flow of your extruder.

Just like these two examples you play around with your slicer settings until you are satisfied enough with your 3d printer test.

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App
Comments deleted.

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Glad you like it!

Comments deleted.

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Glad you like it!

Hey,

first of all, thank you for your effort, I respect such ppl very much. I have just one question about your guide you mentioned.

When it comes to "BED-PIDs" you wrote "Write this values with M301 command (syntax: M301 P10 I2 D5) and you are done!". Are you sure it's M301 rather than M304? With M301 I will overwrite the hotend settings or did I miss something?

Best Regards

Hey friend,

You are probably right! I use GUI plugin so I don’t know gcode commands so much :-). It also depends on your firmware, most of poeple can reach eeprom settings with various commands.

Simply use what works for you!

Marián.

Comments deleted.

Hello,
Thanks for putting this test together. It's very interesting to see all the variety of quality indicators.
I printed one on my new Ender 3, because everyone else has one, and I cave to peer pressure easily.
I believe it did fairly well for a first try. All I've really done is level the bed and update cura settings so far.
Ender 3 test https://imgur.com/a/DZOieEw
This should be a few photos of the results. This is how it came off the printer, I haven't pulled off strings or anything like that.
The areas of note are the baseplate, the text, the underside of the top overhang, and the horizontal bars.
The baseplate is very warped. I print directly onto the printer's included print surface, and the warping was not from the surface. It was flat, the print was warped.
The ends of the horizontal bars are thicker than the rest of the bar.
I've read your guide, and plan on implementing the changes, but any advice you can give would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Edit: PLA, 210 & 65 degrees, 100% infill, print thin walls: on, .2 line width

This video helped a ton with the warping on my CR-10s. It's about 'layer squish.'

Here it is:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o9L7f0zx1WQ

Hey friend, thanks for such a detailed comment!

First of all, you may want to check link in my description, it’s my own wordpress guide which should help you to solve basic issues!

Then, be sure to use heated bed so your prints doesn’t warp.

If you have issues with warping after various bed temperatures, definitelly try to use glass with gluestick as your bed! There is nothing that sticks better..! If problems still persist, I suggest to try different fillament.

Marián.

Comments deleted.

What am I doing wring, was set up per your instructions

I have gotten successful prints before

you might want to change the extrusion rate

Maybe clog i’d say? What about fillament diameter settings and extrusion rate?

Mine came out well, but it's quite a large print compared to the number of things is tests. I'd encourage you to do the mini and micro versions of this thing instead. Otherwise, really nice. Glad my Prusa i3 MK3 did well, other than a little bit of stringing on the three pillars.

Hey friend,

Check my profile, i made 2 a lot smaller models already, which can be printed much faster!

Prusa has some awesome machines!

Marián.

Thanks Marián - I have downloaded these 2 smaller models already. Thanks for sharing them with us!

No problem! Hope you like them!

Hi, I have an ender 3 using this with Cura 3.4
Of course I didn't read all the messages nor even your initial description so I set things up incorrectly. I was also using a recommended profile, that had the diameter of the PLA at 1.61 instead of 1.76 I also had the infull to 20% So...
It actually turned out pretty good. I was missing much of the text but that apparently is because I did not choose Thin walls. The only areas of concern were left rear with the tall pillars, there was lots of stringing there sand the final 85 degree text.
One comment, the final 85 degree slope has a lot of spring to it. So I think vibrations here played a role. Also since I was using 1.61 mm diameter settings, everything was over extruded. This only seemed to be an issue on the pillars.
So, I want to do this again with the default cura profile but this time with 1.75mm, filament (the correct values)
I also printed at .1mm height. This time I will print at .2mm. Will I see the text?
Thanks, Tom

Hey friend,

I am not sure if you will see the text, text is overall issue because it’s really thin, especially for 0.4mm+ nozzles.

Pro tip: Check my newest models, you’ll be able to test same or even more things in smaller time!

Marián.

Comments deleted.

Just got my Ender 3 last week and thought i should give it a wide array test and everything came out way better than i expected for how little tweaking I've done but the letters (the negative space ones and the raised ones) all came out either almost closed up (negative space) or kind of blobby (raised ones). Do you think it's just over extrusion making it unclear? Or is might it be something else?

Comments deleted.

This is nice part, but I think the overhang test is a bit flawed. I.e. if you can print 60 degree overhang, but it top end ends just 0.2mm below the intended height, because small drooping, the next overhang (70 degree) is going to be completly ruined, even if your printer could print such overhang on flat surface that is not drooping. The error is cummulative, and is not fully representative of the overhangs themselves. For this reason, I would add another one or two over hang tests with just 50, 60, 70, 80 degrees, and remove the "OVERHANG TEST" thingy, or make it shorter (i.e. make it two lines "OVERHANG\nTest", making it narrower but taller), and use the saved space for dedicated 50-80 overhangs.

Hey friend, many people already printed 80dgr overhang on 0.2 mm.

I don’t see any reason why should I remove it, poeple seem to love it!

Otherwise thanks for your comment and time.

Marián.

I didnt ask to remove it. I said to move it to different place. Please read again. Cheers.

Hey!

Sorry, I missunderstood at first glance, you know, i am going into new school, really tough days, everything is new, so I didn’t pay much atention - my bad and I am sorry...

It’s good idea to make narrow test, I may do it in my free time! Thanks!
You can try to do remix if you want...!

Marián.

Comments deleted.

Wow... this is really good! Thanks!

No problem! :-).

Marián.

Printed this out the other day on my FFCP, All came out fine except overhands are a bit fuzzy underneath once it reaches 40 deg and above, and the fine print on some sections is unreadable (only when printed inwards, outwards lettering is perfectly readable) (except diameter test and the line under that too, they were scuffed for some reason). Some individual layers on different parts are either slightly out of line so poking out or slightly inwards.

I also get very fine strings of filament between parts and at the end of every print I have to detach a fine string from the model and from the nozzle.

Anyone have a way to interpret my results at all if this makes sense please? If not I will try to take some pictures of it and put them up on here.

Forgot to add, I printed with PLA and matched the print settings as outlined in the description for this test.

Hey friend,

basically try to calibrate PIDs, extruder, axis steppers and other things! This should solve lot of problems :-).

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

My hole diameters are off by .05-0.10 mm after print. Anything I should be looking at to calibrate closer? Also for the outside diameter circles the outside wall had a slightly wider rim around the bottom? Is this intentional or a calibration issue? I'm using Slic3r PE. Thanks! awesome STL

Hey friend, probably not, 0.1mm deviation is still considerable as "OK".

But if you want, you can try it!

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

Hey,
Does this still work if you scale it down for smaller printers or can you make a smaller version?
Thanks, I would like to know
--krkevin

Hey friend, I already made smaller version, you can find it on my account!

Hope it helps :-).

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

Hello,
I am new to 3D printing. I bought a new Prusa MK3 Kit.
I setup everything and adjusted the Z-hight. The Material is 1,75mm PLA, 210°C.

I tought it would be a good idea to test the printer with your model, before going on with larger projects.

The print of the test looks quite good I guess, but the pins on the back (especially the largest one) and the 70° / 80° Overhang looks not so nice...

Can somebody give an advice please?

Hey friend,

first of all search online for "printer stepper calibration" and calibrate your steps via terminal. Next calibrate YOUR EXTRUDER as well...

Then I'd suggest you to tweak some retractions and print temperature tower first..!

Hope this helps :-).

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

Hi,

Thank you for your excellent test tool. A couple of quesions:
1) What is the purpose of the support test?

2) Reg. my make https://www.thingiverse.com/make:500878
All rectangular tests show the correct dimensions (X & Y walls as well as holes
The cylindric hole tests are also spot on, but the cylinder towers are slightly on the low side (5.8, 7.8 and 9.8 mm). Any thought what may cause this particular deviation?

3) What is the best performing make you have made or seen?
Would be nice to see what is achievable. :-)

BR

Stephen

All In One 3D Printer test

Hey WebDevelopt,

1) The purpose of support test it to test your printer if it's able to print supports - obviously.. :-).

2) I've already suggested you some things, but you can tweak this deviation by calibration your Z steppers - for eg. if it should be 6mm and it's 5.8, you'll calibrate it like : 6/5.8 * current steps = new steps.... then you'll simply upload new steps with M92 Z..... command :-). If you don't understand, go and search printer calibration!

3) I can't say what is best performing, but you can simply go into "make" section and see what you like most!

Hope this helps :-).

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

Comments deleted.

Hey friend,

it looks like you are having some retraction troubles, try to increase retraction and decrease temperature.

Also try to calibrate your extruder, temperature PIDs and overall steps.

Hope this help :-).

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

Hey friend,

It doesn't look that bad!

Try to calibrate your extruder and maybe go back to 0.2, lot of people are having more cons than pros on 0.1LH!!

Hope this helps :-).

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

It is a good challenge.

Hey friend,

I've already sent you some ideas under your make post!

Thanks for posting your make :-)!

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

Hi, I have a printer with a fairly small bed. Would scaling the size down to fit in a 120120120 mm area hurt the actual test, or am I okay doing that?

Hey friend!

Definitely checkout new, smaller version of this test, it may fit your printer!

: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2806295.

If it doesn't you can try to scale it down, I am not sure if it will print or not, simply try it and you'll see...

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš :-).

*MINI* All In One 3D printer test

It's perfect, thanks!

No problem!

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

This might be a stupid question but how do U configure cura to do all these changes automatically in the print? Like the different temp changes etc

This clearly depends on Cura version!

In newest 3.x.x versions go to menu bar (on the top) -> post proccesing -> tweak at Z (here you can tune anything on Z height)

In older 15.x.x versions and so on go to plugions -> tweak at Z -> same process like before :-).

Hope this helps! :-).

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

that is awesome! thank you very much, never knew you could even do things like this :-)

Yeah and there is even more! For example you can stop your printer with this plugin and manually change filament with different color for multi-color printing with 1 extruder! It's awesome tho!

Hope this helps :-).

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

would it be possible to include a tolerance test similar to the one from Maker's Muse?

Good idea! I’ll think about that!

Thanks!

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

Hi,
I just posted a question in the groups section regarding calibration of printers since I obviously have an issue with real sizes of objects.
Let's assume I print out this test model and notice that things are 0.3 mm too wide/tall/narrow what would be the next step to adjust?

Probably verify your steps are right in the firmware?

Yeah, that's what I've said!

Every single stepper motor has a bit different impulses (steps), which you have to calibrate with things like calibration cross...!

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

Hey friend! Simply print calibration cross, put values in included Excell table and calibrate your printer! Calibration cross I am talking about you can find on thingiverse -> search -> calibration cross.

Hope this helps! :-).

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

No problem my friend!

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

Oh this looks excellent, will print in due time!

Thanks!

Don’t forget to upload photos into “made” section then!

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

YES! ive been looking for a test like this im going to print this on my anet a8
thanks!

I’ve ordered Anet A8 5 days ago, I am awaiting it every day! I’d really appreciate if you can put your 3d printout to the “made” section then.

Thanks!

Sincerely,
Marián :-).

ok i can let me tell you its very hard at the start but if you install a mosfet and new psu (for safety) hope you like your anet a8 like me!

Just curious.. What is the mosfet controlling (I assume in place of an underrated transistor, but for which device--the hotend?) ?

it can happen at any temp bc its still putting the same power but this is what it does a MOSFET is like a voltage-controlled switch. To be more precise, an N-channel enhancement type MOSFET is like an infinite resistance when the gate-to-source voltage is zero, and turns into a very low resistance when the gate-to-source voltage is a few volts positive.Apr 19, 2012 its for the heat bed (the heat bed uses the most power) but it can be used for the hot end too. here is how to install it https://3dprint.wiki/reprap/electronics/heatbed_mosfet here is what you NEED to buy https://www.amazon.com/BIQU-Power-Module-Expansion-Printer/dp/B01HEQVQAK also i would buy a new psu and crimps

Yeah, you are right!

I've ordered mosfet few hours ago, I should get it in about 4 days! My connector isn't hot so it's okay, but security is on first place!
Thanks for helping out other people here!

Sinecerely,
Marián Trpkoš :-).

From what I know, Mosfet is just for safety. If you'll put your bed to high temperatures, you are risking burn of the heated bed. I'll order mosfet soon, I don't need it now because I am using only 50C at my bed, because I am printing PLA - of course!

Mosfet can be used to both - bed and extruder, but bed is more important. There are actually folks who are getting warm connectors when not using mosfets. It seems OK to me, maybe because I've got the "newest" A8 board.

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.

still using this on my new cr10 :)

I saw this question before, but its answer is not right. Has anyone else had trouble with the "extruded" text in this print actually showing up when slicing with Cura (3.2.1).

I completed this print, and all the actual tests did pretty well on my printer (despite a bit of warping on my base due to me experimenting with a lower bed temp)... All measurements of the various things are within .02-.15 tolerance, which i think is good enough (and some imperfections may have todo with my cheap digital calipers. The overhangs printed well, with only the 80% being imperfect (the overhang itself is actually ok, with only some dropping, but the 80% is harder to read)...

HOWEVER, the only problem is none of the extruded text (10mm, 20mm, 30mm, etc) printed. To be clear, all the void text (anything cut into the model) printed, but all text extruded out of the model didn't.

I did see Majda mention extrusion rate, etc... This is NOT the issue. It's not the text printing badly, it's literally blank, other than a few dots. This is CLEARLY an issue in the Cura slicer's gcode. Attached are two pictures. One is the solid view of the model, where you clearly see the solid model DOES have extruded text, but the second picture is the "layer view" after slicing... I show the total top layer, and you can see all the extruded text is simply GONE after Cure slices it... Anyone know why this is? Is there a Cura setting I need to tweak? I tried even dropping to .2mm line width in cure (not that I could print that), and .2 wall thickness, just in case the text is too thin unless cura uses thin lines, but that didn't help.... Anyway, I do know for a fact the missing text isn't a printer thing... it's in Cura's slicing... but I can't figure out why slicing is killing that text.

Hey CoreyNach!

I really have to thank you for the info, I’ve actually never used Cura - because I can’t (my only printer is CubePro locked on its slicer). People who were asking me haven’t told me that they use Cura (at least not all of them) so I really couldn’t help them more than just asking for a slicer and telling them to try to decrease extrusion rate (because I thought that the plastic is maybe spilling over the text because of high temperature or over-extrusion).

It’s really good to know that Cura has this issue, I really appreciate your comment! You may try to report this problem to Cura developers!

Thanks for posting!!!!!!!!!!!

Yours faithfully,
Marián ;-).

No problem. I believe Cura is actually trying to do it's job. It is sensing the text is too thin for the line width and nozzle settings, so it just doesn't even try to slice it. If I pump the model up to 200%, and then slice again, then Cura DOES produce gcode with actual extruded text (but I don't really want to print that big, and the text that you see is really thin).

Strangely though, even if I set my line width and wall thickness setting extremely low (.06mm line width, .1mm wall thickness)--so low that the printer wouldn't be able to do it--Cura won't slice that extruded text at 100% model size. This is strange to me because if the reason Cura is not showing the text after slicing really is to account for printer settings, me making the line size that low should allow it.

In any case, this seems a Cura problem. The gcode it generates for the average printer with a .4mm nozzle simply erases the extruded text that is clearly in the model. I will try another slicer just to experiment. BTW, included the sliced view of the model at 200%, where Cura DOES including the text even in the sliced view...

Also, forgot to mention. Great model... nice to have all the benchmarking tests in one place. Also very impressive that you made it at your age... I wish I was this productive when was your age.

UPDATE: If you are a Cura user, enable the "use thin walls" setting. This setting is NOT exposed under "shell" by default. You have to go to your settings, and enable it. Once enabled, turn it on. This fixed my gcode and does show all the extruded text... Thanks to a redditor for letting me know!

Hey CoreyNach!

As again, thanks for your time! I am pretty sure that its only Cura's problem as well, because there are lot of people who printed model on original scale with no text issue!

It's really cool that you've figured out how to solve it with "thin wall settings", this is really handy for me because I am going to order Anet A8 today, so I'll probably use Cura!

Can you please try and print it on a normal scale with thin wall setting? I'd really like to see how will the text perform then!

Also I appreciate that you like my model, you can check out my newer MINI version of this 3d printer test :-). Lot of people are really amazed that this is really done by a 14 y.o. kid.... haha.

Best regards,
Marián :-)

Comments deleted.

Hi, i testet that, but i had Problems with the Signs from top. Like Hole Test Text or 3D Printer Test Text... you cannot read it on my print, there only much little holes but not readable.The "bigger" Holes are good. But the Text like X mm you cannot read...

And the Complete Text what looks out is missing.

Hey!

I’d suggest you to try to decrease extrusion rate, as well as nozzle & bed temperature. You can also try to decrease printer speed to achieve better precision!

Best regards,
Marián :-)!

Hi, what is extrusion rate? I use ultimaker cura on windows... dont find that... also nozzle, what is that?

I tried with lower bed temperature and lower print speed, but thats not helping

Sorry for late reply,

Extrusion rate is basically "how much of filament is extruded" by a "nozzle" (nozzle = printing head; that device which prints out the filament). I've never worked with Cura much, but I am pretty sure that you can decrease it somewhere... I'll be called like "extrusion" or "filament amount" or something like that I think.

By a "nozzle" temperature I mean a temperature on a printing head!

Best regards,
Marián :-).

I think so!

I didn't use S3D much, because my printer is BFB type but I know something about it. The best thing you can is to create multiple processes, or add more temperature states in "temperature" section. You can change temperature related to the layer height there!

Best regards,
Marián :-).

Thanks for this test. My printer did surprisingly well. Perfect bridges and only serious overhang problems at 80 degrees.
I decided to print the bottom plate at only half the height, since it seemed like a lot of wasted filament to print it at full height.
However, I think you made 2 mistakes: The 8mm hole is actually 9mm, and the wall thickness for the diameter test is 1mm instead of 0.5mm. I thought my printer messed up, but I checked it in fusion 360.

Btw, it would be nice to have a little more spacing between the pillars and the 3 horizontal bars (the ones between the pillars and the overhang test), to allow easier measurements using calipers.

Keep it up!

Hey Craven122,

I´ve read your comment once again and I found that you were saying "hole test" not "diameter test". You were right, the 8mm hole was actually 9mm in the diameter, but now should be everything fixed in the "3rd gen" of my model!

Thanks for your help!
Best regards,
Marián :-).

Hey Craven112,

I've already fixed that issue and uploaded "2nd gen" of my model. What is very interesting is that I actually see the diameter as 8mm in my Solidworks software, here is a picture :

https://imgur.com/a/7tMY1

Can you please double-check it in the Fusion 360?

Anyways, the 0.5mm wall was my mistake, there should be "1.0mm" wall.

Thanks for your help!
Best regards,
Marián :-).

Hi,

I really appreciate your feedback!

I never thought that my design will have so much popularity here so I didn't check the diameters... I don't have a Solidworks on my MacBook now but as soon as I'll have it installed again I'll do my best to fix it!

Otherwise, I hope that my design helped you!

PS: You are right, the base bottom plate could be a bit thinner, but i wanted to be sure that no-one will have problem with printing this thing - so I rather decided to use more material on the bottom plate than having some issues!

Best regards,

Marián.

What a brilliant idea!!
I really wish I had thought of it!!! :)

Thank you for posting this. You have made my life a lot easier (I test a LOT of filaments!)
Susi.

Thanks! Imagine that this all was designed by 14 years old person hehe....

I really appreciate your comment, every comment helps me a LOT.

Best regards,
Marián :-).

If at age 14, you are already producing what people need, I predict a bright future for you.

Thank you. I now feel older than I have ever done! :D

I really hope for the bright future!
Right now, i am just a kid at the elementary school....
As always, thanks for moral support ;-).

I am trying my best to deliver what people need, unfortunately I like coding more than 3D designing heh.

I also have to say that I like your designs either ;-).

Marián.

I have a LOT that I need to put up here, but my day job (with a UK filament company) keeps me so busy that I never seem to get the time.
I need to make more of an effort to post them. :D

You should post them I am pretty sure that they are awesome!

Marián.

Nice idea - my only caveat for anyone thinking of printing it would be that if you fail the z-axis columns (or anything before that), it's going to throw the rest of the test, i.e. the overhangs. I had to resort to adding support to the columns with a peg to get past the final column, although that's more on the printer (and me) than the design.

If you've got the time/filament to spare, and you're confident you have good settings, I'd recommend printing on the highest detail possible, just because it is such a nice all-in-one design.

Thanks,

I am really amazed how is my design popular! I was uploading it with Hope that at least someone will download it - now, after 2 months, my design is one of the most popular designs on thingiverse!

Otherwise, i really appreciate ur comment!

If you had any issues with my design, feel free to abuse me.

Best regards,
Marián :-)!

Hello!

That is a fantastic testing! Great work!

But just a question, when I import this model into Slic3r and slice it, I could not see all the Emboss words (e.g. the ones at BRIDGING TEST, DIAMETER TEST). Do you have any idea on this? What is the height of those emboss words?

Slic3r setting:

  • 0.05mm or 0.10mm layer height
  • 70-100% infill
  • No support

Thanks!

Hmmm.....

I have no idea if It works, but maybe you can decrease extrusion rate value....

The text is just for decoration, nothing cruel :-). I’d make it bigger, but I wasn’t sure how to do it in Solidworks.

Thanks for moral support, I really appreciate it :-).

Best results in 3D printing!
Marián.

Comments deleted.

Great design for testing the printer and filament. Thanks for sharing.

No problem, I made it for this purposes :-).

Hope you'll get good results,
Marián.

Hello,
I have a problem with the layer of the print. Please suggest a solution to the issue. I have a TEVO TARANTULA 3D printer. Material: PLA Bed Temperature: 60 Nozzle Temp: 210. Print speed: 30mm/s

Regards,
Praveen
tom4praveen@gmail.com

Try tentionening the belts

Hello, which software are you using? It can be hardware issue or software issue. In case of hardware issue just check all belts and motors.

In case of software problem, you maybe made mistake while creating virtual 3D printer plane.

Marián :-)

Looks like your belts need tightening, they skip on the pulley wheels.

Maybe, well if yes, I think that the printer won’t even print the first layer. I think that’s it’s rather software issue, but not sure tho.

Best regards,
Marián

Hello! i have the worst printer ever. the geeetech prusa I3 and it failed EVERY test.
i know its the printer's fault, do you have a good one around the price range of €200-€300?

Well; I have 3000€ CubePro Duo (YES, 3000€) and it can’t even print this test. It has totally closed software so you can’t adjust any values....

I’d probably recommend you buying Anet A6/A8 or in better way CR-10.

If you wan’t to invest more, the best printer you can get is probably Prusa MK 3.

Wish you luck while chosing new printer!

Best regards,
Marián :-)

Just curious how come no diagonal lines?

You can remove diagonal lines (scars) by adjusting vertical lift.

You can get more info here :
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#scars-on-top-surface

Hope for good results,
Marián!

Should this be printed like the thingiverse blue image shows? or should it be rotated so that the square big platform is laying on the heat bed?

You should rotate it to the heated bed, iťs probably my (or maybe thingiverse) 3d model rotation problem. Hope this helps, don’t forget to post your results!

Best regards,
Marián

very cool Majda. I'll def be using it to test/tune my printer. Thanks!

I really thank to you man!

I really appreciate your donate, it helped me a lot, THANKS!

Hope you'll tune your printer as much as you can, feel free to abuse me here or on my personal email majda.trpkos@icloud.com, i can help you whenever you want.

Best regards,
Marián Trpkoš.

Comments deleted.

Any suggestions for print speed using a makerbot 5th gen replicator?

Hmmmm....
You can try 2000mm/m but I am not sure, best thing you can do is to print at default speed of your printer :-).

Hope for good results!

Can you suggest me what to do when my printer can't do the bridging test or overhang test? Thanks

BTW Slovensko/Česko? (if you don't understand let it be)

And yes, I am from Czech Republic.
You can DM me on “Majda.trpkos@icloud.com”

Hello, firstly check your temperature.
If you are printing with ABS, you should have about 220-240 degree of Celsius. If you are printing with PLA, your temperature should be about 190-220 degree of Celsius.
Also be sure that your fans are spinning, otherwise printer wouldn’t be able to bridge at all. FANS ARE VERY IMPORTANT!!!
Lastly, lower your printing speed. Your printer is maybe too fast and that isn’t good too.....

Hope this help, tell me if it works!

i will test with abs 0.2 layer and 125 mm/sec speed on ultimaker 2+

Well sounds good! Be sure to post it here after you make it!
Glad to hear that someone is going to print my creation!

Recommend Layer Resolution and Print Speed?

Depends on your printer. :-)

Too cool, thank you very much.

Has lots of features to see your printers limitations.
However, 13 hours for a test print. Way too big, with lots of excess/unnecessary blocks.

Well, it’s made for new 3D printers to completely test their abilities! Otherwise I Hope you like my print! Seeing a mail from Thingiverse “made” always makes me so happy!

Great project! All things tested in only one file!

Thanks! It always charges me up when I see a new positive comment on my thing! Thanks for moral support!

I’m going to use this as a decoration

Like really? Do you like my design so much?
It's really nice for me to know that someone appreciate my work :-).

Hehehe :-D, really?

Should this be printed as designed (upright) or flat on it's back?

Flat, it's design mistake :-). Hope you enjoy it!

Would be much more challenging on its side!