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RamjetX

RamjetX Thrustmaster T300 T500 TX TSPC 70mm Hub Adaptor Kit

by RamjetX Nov 7, 2017
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Hey the adaptador to the wheel is fine but can you make the hole for the cable of 10mm of diameter so I cam fit the cable? Thank you

Can you make a version for 50mm?

50mm pcd? It would put the screws into the middle of the thread, but it's possible. It would rely on self tapping screws for strength

What about an adapter from 70mm to 50mm?

That would work... Whats the 50mm pcd profile going to fit?

The amstudio diy f1 wheel.

Hi I got a wheel with just the horn button do I need an Arduino still or can I contact the horn direct thanks.

Sozz I'm new to all this lol

what type of screws can i use with this design as i printed and it looks awesome but i am not sure what screws to use for the steering wheel.

Not my design but I'm almost 100% sure they are M5 bolts, you can find these at home depot, just bring it with you to the store to confirm.

For anyone trying to print this I was slicing it using cura and had to move the threaded piece down 1mm on the build plate and the other piece down 2mm or else the rings would not stick properly for some reason.

Interesting? You mean you recessed the part into the print bed to trim off some of the thickness of the model? I haven't had this issue at all with cura. Out of curiosity... was the model flat on the bed in Cura? Fusion axis I build from are 90 degrees rotated, but laying it flat shouldn't make a difference or cause problems...

Hey,
I had a friend print out the adapter a few months ago and it split at the threads when I tightened it down. I compared the adapter to my stock rim and the printed thread was a little shorter. Is the model at 5.5 mm pitch or what is it? I might reprint it with the Z axis scaled up a tiny bit.

It could be his printer has issues with the z axis.

Hi Sketchexe, I'd have to go back and check my file for the exact pitch measurement.

I alway recommend doing a dimensional calibration cube check. I had variance between both of my machines at home and when I printed parts on both of them, they wouldn't fit parts made by the other one easily without a little sanding. Turns out there was a calibration difference between the two.

So I'd start with doing that first then checking to see if it was off and reprinting.

Additionally, I've had the threads snap on my first few too. For me it was not making the walls thick enough and poor layer adhesion from PLA with a little moisture in it. It's a part under stress and typically printed in the direction of the thread which only makes layer adhesion more important.

I'll recheck my dimensions again. However there have been over 2000 downloads on this model now and only a couple with issues which were solved in a calibration of esteps.

The parts are all designed within 0.4 tolerance of the original part. It's supposed to be tight so that your wheel won't slop around in the hub.

Try those things above and let me know.

RamjetX

hello, I meet a problem on this stl once printed impossible to screw the inside of the pieces do not fit and rubs against the part of the base, and I can screw at the bottom of the coup no connection with the din ..

nice job friends!!

Hi Locky, yeah the STL is a tight fit. Just to be sure though. Can you print a 20mm calibration cube and check your e steps for your X Y and Z axis. The model is intended to be tight to avoid and slop or play into mount. If your printer dimensions are off a little. That might be enough for it not to fit.

Hello,
I just replace a ramps and the new measure is 20.4 xyz, indeed the old config I do not know if the measurement was correct, I have to redo a print to test, thank you for your answer I will come back to say what he Thank you.

No problem. Let me know how you go. Don't forget that over extrusion will also thicken up the walls. Most have managed to print it fine.

Hello,
I redo the parts, it's better, it was a bad setting my printer, thank you again for your answer!
Ps: i am coconut inyourass in discord..lol .

hi. If I was to make a button plate for my wheel is it possible to connect the electronics to the wheel base and if so how. Nothing on youtube except using usb connections. Thanks

Hi Liamp6... I did reply but for some reason my comment is flagged for moderation. Thats odd... did I report myself? lol anyway...

To make sure I responded accordingly... yes you can make this work on your button plates with the original wheel base.

You have two options... you can either replicate the original circuit board with parallel to serial shift register's or you can use an arduino to emulate the shift register for your buttons...

Option 1, I used a 74HC165 Parallel to Serial shift register module for an arduino kit...

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5X-Shift-In-Register-DIP16-Breakout-Board-for-Arduino-SN74HC165N/401242171184?hash=item5d6be5a730:g:1msAAOSw1H9biUe3:rk:11:pf:0

I used 3 of them in series. They're super cheap but I did have to invert the Parallel/Serial latch pin with a transistor as the original chip on the thrustmaster pcb is opposite level... not difficult. If need be I'll draw up my schematic and share.

Option 2, See this guy's work on emulating the original shift registers with an arduino... very cool work.

http://rr-m.org/blog/hacking-a-thrustmaster-tx-rw-gaming-wheel-with-arduino-uno-part-1/

To help you diagnose even your own pcb, I'd recommend building the arduino wheel base code to check your pcb design works instead of risking your wheel base.

:) hope this helps

H Liamp6,

Yeah thats what the DIN connector is for. So if you're looking to make compatible button plates with your thrustmaster... there is a couple of ways to do it.

Inside the button plate is essentially a Parallel to Serial converter chip... (actually 3 of them from memory). What this does is captures all of the buttons in parallel. Then the latch line is set to serial mode and each parallel bit is clocked out of the data port with each toggle of the clock line coming from the thrustmaster base.

Sounds intense but it's like shift registers 101... super simple stuff. The trick is that the first 3 bits set the ID of the wheel which is how the base knows what graphic and each button to put in the usb game controller control panel.

Or.... you can use an arduino uno to emulate the parallel in to serial out converter and connect your buttons to the arduino.

For more detail on this... this guy ... http://rr-m.org/blog/hacking-a-thrustmaster-tx-rw-gaming-wheel-with-arduino-uno-part-1/ .... has done an amazing job reverse engineering and explaining it.

I made my own with the 74HC165 parallel to serial shift registers.... These were like $1.27 each and I needed to invert the serial/parallel mode pin with a transistor...not hard but a little electronic soldering. I really should draw the circuit diagram and post a blog about it...It worked as a proof of concept, but I've not used it full time in a button plate as I'm still happy with the Evo 599 alcantara rim I got 14months ago.

Thanks heaps might give that a go with this new f1 rim im making. If you do post a diagram let me know.

sorry for the late reply

Hey man.. Is it possible to use this with a Fanatec Porsche rim on to my Thrustmaster TX base?.. Do you have a good tip on how I could connect my Porsche rim's electronic on to the base (or usb)?

https://github.com/darknao/btClubSportWheel

I'm not sure if this will help with the electronics. I haven't read much on it yet as I'm bathing the kids as I write this. But check it out.

As for a 3D printed model. I'm sure it's not hard to do that

Could i ask what thread you used for the main connection to the wheel base? I can't find it mentioned anywhere? I just want to make a round mounting flange rather than the contoured flange.

I found it.

ISO Metric Profile
Size: 56.0 mm
Designation: M56x5.5
Class 6G
Right Hand Thread.

Click full length and Modeled in Fusion 360.

hey mate, nice work, could you upload some sort of modifiable file?

Hey kosmicno,

I get this question alot. The only reason I haven't is because there are people already selling my models online as their own by meshmixing out my watermarks. If I release an editable model then it free's others to make money on my effort and I have specifically stated as non commercial and intended to be for free for everyone.

Keeping the file and STL preserved keeps the model in line with the rest of my shifter mounts and wheel plates. That way people aren't trying to figure out what version fits with the rest of my models.

Since it's intended as a generic adaptor and the basis of every other a model I build from, it should stay as it is. To date I believe it's the most accurate model online. I'd like to keep it that way.

Nice work, mate.
Any chance you could upload these in STEP format? I'd like to make a few tweaks for a little project I'm working on.

Hi, it's part of a bigger build, but what would you like to change or add?

The first would be the hole for the DIN contact and the other would be four screw holes to make it more durable.

The DIN doesn't need screws... it's part of the model.

good, could you share the plate?

Ah... I see what you mean... the button plate. Yeah I'll definitely share it.. I'm just overwhelmed with an illness and young family at the moment. Finding time in a day is really rare at the moment.

Thank you very much for answering, I hope you recover soon, greetings from Spain

I'm pretty sure your the same sv86 that I spoke to years ago about the Sega STCC DX arcade cabinet, yeah?

It was not me, I'm sorry .. hehe

Great work! looking forward to your button plate design! Just bought an after market wheel and will definitely use your design!
Thank you for sharing!

Nice work, mate.
Any chance you could upload these in STEP format? I'd like to make a few tweaks for a little project I'm working on.

Cheers

Hi, is normaly from cr10 is 3h56 you 8h ? setup is 0.2 shell 1.2 / 0.8 infill 30%

my setup is correct?

Purely depends on your settings for print speed and progressive infill.

I disabled progressive infill for a more constant infill. It may or may not make a difference. Im not sure. Either way... Give it a whirl ... Worst case it'll delaminate and you try again with slower speed and non progressive infill.

I print at 40mm per sec because it eliminates ringing in my print and the slower I went the better the layer adhesion got. I used to print at 65mm but for final surface quality I just slowed it down.

Great thing about 3d printing, you can make as many as you'd like.