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SagaWorkshop

Thor Ragnarok Swords

by SagaWorkshop Nov 5, 2017
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whats the overall blade length?

These swords are fantastic!!! The steel rod makes them very stable. I used 3D PLA Gloop with the rods and feel that they're very sturdy. Nice details in the design. I made 2 sets... one with complete swords to hold and one set with half swords to be put into a sheath and be worn on my back with the shield and mace in hand. I based it off of the Hot Toys gladiator Thor.

I printed another gladiator sword file and scrapped it for these. I love them and can't wait to cosplay with them and display them. Use a fine print and some 2 in 1 filler primer and they're baby smooth with no effort.

Want a good set of swords, make these. Thank you creator!

I like it!!!!
but do you have only one piece sword???
when you have it, please upload it!!

what are the print settings and what printer did you use?

No settings in particular, just any default settings will work fine. The orientation of each piece should be vertical. I haven't printed one yet but I designed it to be printed on regular size hobby printers like my Printrbot: 6"x6"x6".
Thanks for the question!

There are 2 sets of files for the swords. What is the difference between the 2?

Is the entire sword different or just the handles?

Entire sword. Blade shape is the same but the engraving pattern is different

Love the model, agree that it needs to have bars in between the sections of the blade, would make it a lot easier and stronger to assemble.

No problem! two requests seems like enough to make it a thing. Going to be adding bars to this model very soon.
Thanks for the feedback guys, I need it more often!

I say this with zero knowledge of modelling other than opening a program and going, nope! Is it valuable maybe making a copy of the original one, adding the support bars and offering the two files for people? Best of both worlds.

I am trying to learn Pepakura to 3D printable files now as a base line for learning modelling.

That is very do able. I keep multiple copies of all my files, as well as copies of each object in each file.
You should totally learn! I had pepakura briefly, can't speak much about the interface etc. but i would recommend just learning a standard modelling program. Jump in! Like anything it takes time but you will learn basics that are more easily transferable to other interests and fields.
A lot of people rip on Blender, but honestly it is a great program, and what I use most of the time. If you need pointers feel free to message me.

Thanks man! I am really into printing cosplay stuff like this, but I don't see a lot of what I want to build. So I thought I will teach myself how to do it all and then make and share what I do. At the moment, as a learning tool I am following a few tutorials on importing Pepakura files into Fusion360 and then building them into printable files.

I have always wanted to make a Iron Man cave armour set, and I thought being that it's pretty round it wouldn't be all that hard to model and print. My plan is to have the armour modelled and then test printed on my CR-10 S5 when it gets here. (Still to order it yet, finding a place in Australia to buy it is proving a mission of it's own.)

I started with Helagak's Mark 1 model and I am doing all the work based off that. So much to learn but I figure it will give me a good understanding of where I want to go with the program.

The nice thing about learning to design, is that if you don't see a lot of other peoples work that interests you, or the things you are interested in haven't been made yet you can be the one to bring those things to life. I've got a few obscure props I will be releasing on here in the next week or so, which are only brought to life because I wanted to design them, and that feels wonderful.
When doing a large cosplay piece like this you have a couple of different routes you can go, and 3D printing is just one tool in your toolbox. Lemme try to break it down quickly and some of the advantages and disadvantages.

Route 1: 3D printing
-Design, or use someones else's design, or adjust and play with someone else design to fit your needs more precisely.
Pros:
-In software, you can make sure every detail is accurate to the original, or you can redsign certain elemnts to look how you would like them.
-You have the file forever, you can press a button and make more of the thing you love, in case the first one breaks, or is wrong.
Cons:
-Long print times (no problem for CR-10) and lots of sanding (unless you like the 3D printed look)

Route 2: Pepakura for intended use.
*Something to note about pepakura is that it is not meant for design. People import their 3D models designed in other programs into Pepakura which runs it through and algorithm to make it cut-and-foldable.
-Let pepakura split a model into a series of cuts and tabs. Print out on cardstock, cut, fold, glue. Have 3D cardstock version. Cover in resin and fiberglass for reinforcement
Pros: Might be cheaper, might be faster?
Cons: Sanding, sanding, sanding chemical crap. Need mask and ventilation probably.

Route 3: Foam fabrication:
-This is great for armor projects, because if the piece has less detail (like the MK 1 suit)
Pros: Probably fastest and cheapest
Cons: Requires knowledge and practice in foam fabrication.

Route 4: Multi-media
In prop making, no one tool or technique dominates. You have less of a deadline so you can approach it anyway you like, but if you watch a lot about ILM and Weta workshop, or prop shops like Frank Hippolito's they use 3D printing for many things but also other techniques as well. For certain things, 3D printing might be cheaper and quicker, and for certain things it might not be.
You should ask yourself questions like: How much does the fiberglass and resin cost? How easily can you work with EVA foam? How much filament will full pieces use?
The entire suit of armor doesn't all need to be one material or process if it's painted in the end. Use the techniques that you feel most comfortable with and that will benefit the project the most.

Was this at all helpful? I've been meaning to stream or youtube about these exact topics for a while and never get around to it, but if this seems helpful maybe I'll try to speed myself up a bit haha.

Hey mate,

Sorry for the late reply on this! I have been in Sydney for work for a while and only just got back home a week or so ago. Everything you have said has been helpful, I can't thank you enough in taking the time.

You and a few other designers here have inspired me enough to start learning Fusion360. I have started doing some tutorials and am currently making a little headway in the program. I am just taking it easy, going over the same tutorial base over and over until it sticks in my head on what I can and can't do.

The issue for me is that I have such a massive range of things that I want to build, I feel like I am never going to be good enough at design to bring them to life. But as they say, practice, practice practice.

Thanks for all your help on this, I will be following what you do with close eyes!

Any plans to add pegs between each blade piece to make it stronger?

I certainly could if you like. Part of the reason I didn't is that there is some other designer out there who did these for Uncle Jessy, a little before I finished my version. And this guy used the rod as well as pegs, so I didn't want anyone to think I had just stolen his model. But anyway, I guess it makes more sense to have them than not.

I would suggest square bars if you can. I just printed the Master Sword and it uses rods. Since I don't have access to rods I printed pegs and they work but are not 100% stable so rectangular bars would be much better.

As someone who's seen the swords in person, these are defiantly the most accurate model I've seen so far, well done.
Will defiantly be printing them over the next week or so!

I appreciate that. I got to see them at Fan Expo here in Canada where i snapped some pics for reference. But I had already done most of the model by that time. Just took me a while toput the finishing touches on. Let me know if anything is off so I can fix it when I get the chance.