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Fixed Torque Wrench Handles from 0.5Nm to 6Nm (in half and 1Nm steps)

by A_R_B Oct 29, 2017
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having serious issues getting the toolholder to stay in the rotor for more then 1.1Nm :( .. using standard 6.35mm / 0.25" toolholder and depending on how I print it and how deep the tool is it will work till 0.9Nm or 1.1Nm but I'm not able to get it over 1.1Nm?! Any hints how to achieve this? (using PETG, ABS and PLA)

EDIT: managed to achieve 1.6Nm today but not more :(

As these parts are all made from plastic it's just not possible to go very high. And every material has different strength and shrinking values. I glued a magnetic bit-holder into the stronger torque holders.
You can try to stretch the limits by printing the rotor at .99 scale (x- and y-axis), or even 0.985 to have a really snug fit. If it works print then the other parts with the same scale ratio.


hi a_r_b, it has bin interesting test these days to play with this... I tried gluing the metal bit-holder (actually the piece that's one side .25" and other side is 6.5mm square that can go into my torque meter) with some "universal" glue and also with some 2 part metal filled epoxy and that's how I got up to 1.6Nm but not more .. it would be interesting to know what type of glue you used to get over that :) ... looks like petg is just too elastic to hold the bit with such a "round shape" ... I was thinking about ordering some bitholders and drilling a hole in them so I can push a cross "nail" trough the rotor and bit shank..

I used 2 component epoxy glue, brand is Araldit (a Swiss brand) but others like UHU should work as well. Properly cleaning needed, also the metal parts must be free of fat and dust. I gave good time to dry (24-48 hours) and had never a problem up to 6 Nm since more than a year. Most of my parts are made from PETG or ABS.

Enjoy and good luck!

:thumbsup: :D

Thank you so much for making this! I have printed the parts, but am having trouble finding the other parts I need to buy do you have an amazon link or something by chance? (From the USA)

I added some descriptions in the main text. Easy to order via Amazon, Conrad, or many other companies. Should not be more than 4-7 bucks each.


the 3.0nM one gives me 2nm which is actually way harder to turn than I expected. could it be my 0.5 nozzle :?

Yeah, 2 Nm or even 3 Nm is harder than expected :) The torque could be affected by the larger nozzle, or by infill, shell parameters, material and much more. If you look how a 3D printer (or the slicer) is depositing material that all influences the result. Try 100% infill, more shells and check again. And please report back if you are successful.

Nice design ,I printed the 3.0Nm one with my prusa mk3s,the center hex hole is way too big . Can you make a less tolerance version or share the fusion 360 source file? If you design a 6.7mm hex in the file , I will get a 6.7mm hex in the printer part with mk3s .

The center hex is made for standard ¼ inch drive tools, so 6.35mm and not ISO 6mm. Tolerances should be fine (have an MK3 as well as MK2 and other printers here and printed hundreds of rotors on different printers and with many materials so far), there are two lips so that the inserted tool cannot slip out. 6.55 to 6.60mm are perfect for a snug and removable fit.

Check underextrusion, no of walls, speed, temperatur, etc. 3NM and more are anyway not usable in plastic with that little surface, so you have to glue the tool holder in as seen on the pictures.

I printed the 3.0 Nm one in white PETG and used your Torque Measuring Lever and got about 1200-1300 g on my kitchen scale (with a range 0-5000 g) so if I got it right that corresponds to 2.4-2.6 Nm max torque measured before skipping.

I'm going to use this to change my E3D V6 nozzle (for the first time) on my Prusa i3 MK3. I guess that should do it pretty well.

My print settings were:

  • Nozzle diameter: 0.4 mm
  • Layer height: 0.2 mm
  • Perimeters: 8
  • Solid top layers: 6
  • Solid bottom layers: 4
  • Infill: 80% rectilinear
  • Extrusion width: 0.42 mm (infill 0.5 mm)
  • Infill/perimeters overlap: 25%

There was almost no actual infill in the tool due to perimeters making the parts almost 100% solid.

Great looking instrument. But is there any way (or tools) I can use to try out the torque values (without buying torque wrenches)?


Use this simple lever ( together with a simple scale (i.e. kitchen-scale) and you will become a good sense of the torque values.

Torque Measuring Lever (NewtonMeter Tester)
by A_R_B
Comments deleted.

What does this comment mean?

"If ABS is used, the one number smaller rotor can be used to achieve the same trigger value."

Does it mean that if need say 1.5Nm and use ABS, I should print the 1.0Nm part instead? Or something else?


Yes, sometimes ABS looks to be a bit stronger than PETG, but as I mentioned several times, probably the slicer is more important than the material. Just print both rotors, try out and measure the value, and please give feedback to all us us if you have completely different values.

I see, thanks. I will try 1.0Nm but I don't have a scale that accurate to measure.

Will this work with PLA?

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

User cmh made some in PLA with success, check the comments down...

Hi informel,

Just give it a try by printing one of the rotors. I think there could be more differences by the slicers and not between ABS and PETG.


I just did a 3NM one and I am not sure about the torque, it seems like a lot of torque when I turn it, I will have to check with a real torque wrench

Oh yes, 3NM is a lot for such a small plastic part, that was the reason I originally limited it to that value. Let me know if you checked the value.

Thanks for the reply, I print a 3nm from an old Makerbot Replicator 1, until my Voron is build

IF I print in ABS intead of PETG, will the value be off a lot?

I also have PETG with carbon fiber, that would also be a problem right ?

Hi, I am momentarily ,printing all your torque keys. This should be a great addition to my tool box. Also already printed the Torque Measuring Lever. Many thanks for all these designs. Being an older guy ( 75 ) with hand problems like most of the people of my age, turning small keys like these torque keys is not without punishment : a lot of pain. So I would suggest a nice addition that would help the older people, a kind of key holder that fits over the torque case with an extension lever of around 15cm. That would avoid a lot of wrist and hand problems. I already thank you on behave of those with artrosis and arthritis.Regards, Jacques

Hi JakkesT,

First congratulations to such a hobby that the brain gets young and fresh.
This part was never intended for more than 3Nm and the higher values came only gradually. 6Nm is really tackling for every hand.

I designed this Bar to help. Fits from both sides so that right and left torques are possible. Tested to 3Nm. For higher values, the part must be supported, e.g. through straps, tension sets or cable ties.


Hi, many thanks for the extra bar design. As you can see it is all ready printed and will certainly be used. All the best.

Great design. My PETG print of the 0.5 Nm measured right on using the Torque Measuring Lever.

One question -- I don't see the matching case for Torque_Rotor0.8Nm.stl, is it also available?

thank you!

Hi j1m1sh,
Sorry for the delay. The 0.8Nm was the old 1.0Nm, renamed as it is for many people less than 1.0Nm. It's a optional version if the 1.0Nm is to strong on your slicer/printer/material.

No worries -- thanks for the update!

These designs are awesome. It must have costed you quite some time to get the torques right. Thx a bunch for sharing!

I have made the 0.5, 1.0, 1.5, 2.0 and 2.5 versions. All components printed in PETG. I printed the rotors with Formfutura's HDglass and using your Torque Measuring Lever and a digital kitchen scale they are all accurate enough for me :-)

Except for one.....: with the 2.0 Nm version I reach only some 720 to 740 grams - just similar to the 1.5 Nm version. I see clearly differences between the parts (the 2.0 version has a bit higher 'wings') but somehow the 2.0 Nm does not work for me. I have printed the rotor again with another brand PETG (Innofil, InoPET) which is a bit less flexible than HDglass but with more or less the same result. Anybody else experiencing this...?

Hi Petclaud,

Thank you for sharing your comments and your pictures, they look really great.

I think the problem for such stiffness experiences is the slicer. I had very different results and sometimes thicker wings had much less power than expected. This is probably a result of the different types of material deposition, even if you have 100% fill. Try using different shell thickness settings, that's the only thing that comes to my mind. (I used Cura with 3 x 0.4 mm thickness).

Other ideas welcome.

Thx. I use Slic3r and used the same settings / profile for all rotors and printed them one by one. Hence I am wondering why only one rotor is not meeting the torque it is designed for, while the others are fairly accurate...

I will now print the 2.0 Nm with 0.05 increased extrusion multiplier - let's see what that delivers.

UPDATE. Interesting: I increased the extrusion multiplier from 0.98 (this value gave me dimensional accurate and visually good prints with this spool of InoPET) to 1.03 and this yields ~130 gram more force on the kitchen scale - now in the range of ~840-860 grams. I will try PLA now for the 2.0 Nm version.

UPDATE. Printed the rotor of 2.0 Nm version in PLA, yielding 960 - 980 gram on the kitchen scale using the Torque Measuring Lever :-)

Is it possible to print these in PLA? And do you have some kind of formula to calculate the torque? I need something in 0,85Nm for a belt tensioner, just looking for a solution and yours looks great for this.

It's really hard to have a calculation formula, I was playing with the thickness of the fins and their lengths. But slicer and nozzle diameter plays an important role. Just print the 0.5Nm and the 1.0Nm rotor in different materials and if you want, you can play with the extrusion rate. But - as cmh - mentioned, this is a plastic printed part, it's never 100% exact.

I've printed one in PLA and tested it but honestly can't remember how it tested out. Wasn't too bad.

Honestly though if you need such precision that 0.5 or 1.0 won't work for you, I doubt I'd go with a 3D printed part.

Well, 0,85Nm is the number i get with a few guesses for some variables ;-) think ill try 1Nm and try to measure what happens. Also its just to stop ppl from massive overtensioning the belts, not for exact adjusting.

So I'm curious how to decipher your rotor marking convention. There's an increasing amount of dots from 0.5 to 3 Nm - although 0.8 and 1.0 both have two dots, just shifted side to side - but then 4 and 6 have the same marking. 4 and 6 are easy to differentiate holding them side by side as 4 is only part height - but it'd be cool if the end marking was unique.

There is a differentiation, but probably hard to see in the finished print:

  • dots are for 0.5Nm each
  • slots are for 2.0Nm each

So the 5.0Nm should have two slots and two dots, the 6.0Nm three slots and the 0.5Nm to 3.0Nm have all dots, as I was not expected to go over 3.0Nm at the beginning :)

This markings were needed for all my (more than 30) test prints :) Now I'm out of black PETG :)

Okay, that's what I thought - you might want to check the model for 6.0 Nm as it only has two slots so reads as 4.0Nm - see the attached file.

You are absolutely right, cmh! Replaced the thing. All the same but with correct slots.

Cool, thanks!

I've also printed the 4/5/6 rotors but the prints didn't go so well and the 4 was testing in the 7 Nm range and the 5 was consistently in the 8.2 - 8.4 Nm range. I have PETG filament, still have to try that.

This is amazing! if you upload a 6Nm i will print and test for you. This is a very common one used in bicycles

4.0Nm, 5.0Nm and 6.0Nm uploaded. Bit holder glued with epoxy into the rotor.

I'm getting some rotation of the bit in the tool at 3.0 Nm, pretty sure at 6 Nm you'd have to change how the bit mounts or find a stronger material. I'd love to see a 4/5/6 range as well, but don't know if it will be feasible without addressing the stress of that torque going through a 1/4" hex hole in plastic.

Yes, may 3.0Nm is working for my PETG and ABS, 4Nm and higher definitely can not hold the bit bet, so we have to glue in the bit-holder. That is not a big issue as I found them very cheap on different places.

I will also do a check how much more ⅜" can hold...

6.0Nm is finished (that's also the maximum to hold it by hand with the current design), working on the 4.0 and 5.0. Stay tuned for 2-3 days.

Awesome! I only use a 5mm bit on the 6Nm so i will glue a long one straight to it first

Awesome, very interested to see those sizes - and I've got a 4, 5 and 6.2 pre-set that I can check them against, as well as my beam-type torque wrench that I already used to confirm the 3.0. Can't wait!

So what do you think would be the best for gluing in the bit holder? I'm thinking a two part epoxy would probably be the best idea.

Yes, I agree. Used 2 component epoxy.

This is straight up one of the coolest things I have seen on Thingiverse. I'll be printing at least the 2 and 3Nm, can't wait to test them out!

Thank you! Please post pictures and your experience later. :)

Posted my make - found a couple minor issues but it's still absolutely amazing. ABS print measured right at 3.0 Nm compared against a beam-type torque wrench. Biggest thing was it seems to work backwards from what I'd expect so I printed a mirror image rotor which fixed that.

It's designed that the engraving is pointed to the part you like to screw in! Of course, the other side is then to do the same for left-hand threads, but the main force should be supported by the chamfered area in the cap. :)

Definitely. Only possible issue is I've never gotten my PETG to print reliably. Will have to sort that out.

Hi. Just out of curiosity - would you be able to also add a 0.5 Nm version of the torque wrench? Thanks anyways for your design - love it.

Hi lakeitbenjamin, added 0.5Nm case and rotor. Enjoy!

Perfect - thanks.

Hi lakeitbenjamin, let me try it. Friction could be an issue, but I'll do a few tests in the next few days. Thank you!