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CR-10 Precision Thumbdial

by idig3d Oct 24, 2017
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Fits and works perfectly on my cr10. Thanks so much.

So much thanks for this model, working perfectly on my CR-10 Mini. Thank you again! :D

Thank you so much for this model! I printed them one at a time and they fit perfectly. I am a noob and really appreciate your design.

Nice model. Plots perfect.

Too large diameter to fit CR-10 S5. The rails are closer to the knob on this unit.

This is so much better than fiddling with those tiny knobs!

Print tip: Do first 2 layers at 20mm/s. After that I printed at 60mm/s but I would choose 50mm/s if I had to do it again. The spokes make it so that the printer has to move quite a lot, so everything vibrates a lot at 60mm/s.

Still came out great, though.

Printed great but it fit very loose on the knob splines. I used S3D to slice it.

Printed and working lovely. I'm not really using the numbers to much, but the ease of turning and the perfect snap fit to the original knobs is just perfect. Thanks!

Hey there,

first thing: thank you for your design. It is a really neat looking thing - best design there is around.
BUT - I hope you are not offended - the first layers are not 3D printer friendly.

Please take a look at the attached pictures of layer 01, 02 and 10 @ 0.2 mm layer height.
Your design would be much easier to print, if the design for layers 01-09 would be like layer 10.
If you would make the "outer ring" thicker - similar as it is in layer 10 - than the print would have much more area to stick to the bed and also the printing movements would not be as broken up as with your design.

Please think about it ;)

Looks like another tip coming your way, good stuff.

Perfect for my CR10S 300, thank you ! :-)

This design is a little too wide to fit on the CR10 S5 (and maybe the S4), it fouls the Y axis linear rails. The maximum radius available looks like it's around 20mm.

This is really great. Perfect fit, both for the bed size/edges, and the knob. Makes the levelling process much easier; the way it should have been designed to begin with. Really excellent CAD skills; I'm a bit jealous :) Thanks!

This one is spot on! Works on CR10s straight away from a build plate - no scaling needed unlike others.

Thank you for a great thing!

EXACTLY what I need! I've been putting off trying to design something like this, with the large diameter and markings, due to my limited skills with CAD, so this was amazing to find! Thanks for sharing!

Thanks for the kind words. Once set, shouldn’t need much adjustment. I tweak the first layer on the fly I found I need to, but once dialed it, seems to hold for a while.

Printed 0.2 32% with no support, as expected middle was messed up a few layers but recovered a few layers up. After cleaning up with blue pliers knobs fit perfectly and works fine on my CR10S.

works great, Support rendered from s3d, printed in 0.1 layers with ABS

The first thing I ever 3D printed, works for CR10 mini too.


You’re most welcome. Thanks for letting me know.

I can confirm that this model fits the upgraded CREALITY CR-10S (S3, 30x30x40) (i've ordered mine in december and have received it in january 2018).

This knob works fine and is indeed really easier to use than the default ones. Just one remark : the numbers are in my opinion totally useless, and the "UP + arrow" that are found on other models are maybe more useful (i've received my CR-10S a couple of days ago and i still have to ask myself in which direction i have to turn the knob ...).

1) I love the numbers! I mean, I can live without them, but there are times where they are useful!
2) Use "Tight" not "Up" - less ambiguous

Most important for last:
3) These don't fit my knobs?! I've printed a couple sets, and they've worked, but these are like a mm or two loose on my nuts. Have you see this elsewhere?
I'll get some measurements and feed them to you for my nuts - I'm sure others are having this issue.

Can you share the file you created the STL's from?

Thanks for confirming. The bigger the number, the bigger the distance. And the points are pointier on the side that lowers bed/increases the distance. Better traction for the spring resistance.

Excellent mod. Thanks.

Great design, makes leveling the bed SO much easier. Thanks a lot =)

All the thumb dial designs looked great but this appealed more to my style. Got them installed 2 days ago and made life easier thank you

love this design but for some reason my printer just won't get through this one, keeps jamming up about 5-6 layers in, tried about six times.

Can you print other things without issue? Temp too high--heat creep? Temp too low--bad adhesion? Too fast--not sticking to bed?


Just got my printer, printed out 4 of these, a real life-saver! Leveling the bed is as easy as pie now -- no more hurting fingers. Why on earth aren't these standard on the printer? Thanks!

I had difficulty getting the supports out of the center. I flipped it upside down and printed. the center stays clear of support material. they are working great.

Thank you ,
it's nice design
good work ;-)

Have you considered a version like this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2462249

That way it makes it easier to keep a set level point without vibrations screwing up your leveling job?

Locking CR10/S4/S5 Bed Leveling Knob

I did initially design them that way. But when I tested them, it took too much force to turn them on the fly. If you adjust your z stop lower so the the springs have moreover tension, then they should hold position.

Have you thought about adding in an arrow model that can be attached on top of the support but under the spring that lets you set a specific value?

Not sure I follow your question. Also, under the spring make get too much heat transfer and the part/arrow would deform.

I was thinking that you could add an arrow pointing towards the dials, so that one could have a good point of reference for the indications on the dial. That way if one wiggles loose or you keep known values for different panes of glass, then you can adjust to a known good level quickly.

Also I meant under the spring on the side closer to the dials, that shouldn't get too hot.

Just FYI this fit my hictop CR-10S that is the newer build ( Dec ,17 ) with the metal belt tensioner and filament detector that had both color trims in the box , from amazon.

thank you very much! :-)

Fits well on the CR10 knob, save my fingers for now.. thanks for the design..

Snapping out the ring appears to be more difficult than I'd expect. I printed the "ws" one at .2, 30% infill, PLA from the factory and can't seem to get it out.

EDIT Pliers and force; popped out.

Bed leveling killer. Thank you!

Same question.
What is the overall diameter ?
Needs to be under 38ish mm to fit the S5

The diameter is 65mm. Just perfect to make it reach the edge of the bed on a CR-10.

I added a drawing. Looks like it would be too big. Does the S5 use the same adjustment knobs?

according to all the pictures I've seen it uses the same knob. the S4 and S5 have dual rails. just measured my S5 and it's 20mm from the screw hole to the rail.

The overall diameter for the S5 knobs should be no bigger than 36.5, I'd say. 18.3 radius allows for a little bit of clearance to the dual rails under the bed. It does look like the stock knobs have the same threaded insert. And yes, the stock knobs look the same at least! Thanks for your help on this!

the knobs are 100% the same, as said previous, the clearance due to the double rails, makes the current diameter too big,

Do you know if this will fit the S5? If you don't know, could you share the diameter of this? Thanks!

I added a drawing with dimensions. Check the files.

How do you "slow down the first layer" on the CR-10? Where in Cura do you make the adjustment to slow down that particular layer or do we just need to slow down the entire print? If so, what setting(s) do we adjust and to what amount? I've tried to get it to print but it never would stick even though my other prints do so I'm wondering if it's the speed that is causing the problem of it not adhering to the board. Thanks!

You can add that by clicking the gear next to speed see my picture. I am having the same issue, right now I am printing 1 on a raft but going to try slowing things down with brim next