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Cam latch for boxes

by martin_au Oct 23, 2017
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Printed beautifully. If you have problems printing it, perimeter and infill overlap setting worth tweaking too, for some reason it was set to 50% in my slic3r profile, as a result printer kept smudging pegs into hole walls, after setting it to 20% it worked beautifully.

I possible post the latch as three separate pieces. With PETG there should be enough give in the plastic to snap the pieces together to form a latch.

Just split it in your slicing software. Also, even with PETG, it's unlikely you'll get the two smallest pieces to snap together. They're a tight fit.

It was hard to get the pegs to stay intact when opening the latches, so I printed another set and drilled out a hole down the center of the pegs large enough to fit a bit of filament through the center. I printed in abs so I just dipped the filament in some acetone and filled the hole. the pegs were fine after that. the latches work great. thanks for the upload

Hello @martin_au,

I have slightly modified your original design, increasing the tolerance as I also had some problem while printing and I have also modified the strategy to avoid the first layer sticking issue.

However your CC license doesn´t not allow to share remixed/mofidication. It would be nice to share this to others that may have faced similar difficulties.

Please let me know if it is ok for you if I share this clearly including a reference to your original design.



Thanks for letting me know. I'll update the license. Feel free to post your version..

Update. License updated. All fixe

Thanks lot for the license and for the great design, I really like it and I hope you will like my small modification.


I will post it tonight

Anyway you could make a part of v2 that has it oriented like v1? It would help with me printing this item already on a box.

I printed it on my QIDI Tech I and it worked great! Printed the latch on the side as suggested. Printed out of ABS at .2mm layer height. Latch works great. Nice design!

Tried to print twice, the pins break immediately upon touching. Design isn't optimized very well for 3D printing.

Errr, actually the design is very carefully designed for 3D printing. If the (fairly hefty, 5mm Ø, and heavily chamfered) pins are breaking with minimum effort, then it sounds like you may not have your printer settings dialled in. In particular, I'd look at printing temp. It sounds like you're not getting good layer adhesion.

I printed this on its side on my Anet A8. broke loose with little effort and works beautifully. I printed with Simplify3d at .1mm layer height. Six layers/shells, 20% infill, 5% support infill, 2200 mm/min default print speed, 50% outline underspeed, 80% infill and support underspeed.

Good to hear. :D

Finally i found it! Thanks man!
I will repair my fender guitar case.

When you say print with pivots vertical do you mean on its side? I print laying down and everything fused together solid so I will try again on its side.

Yep. Try printing it on its side. The pivots rotate around an axis. That axis should be vertical as printers generally draw very nice circles in x and y, and not so well in z.

I tried it this way. The print came out much nicer but is still completely seized. I broke it using a screwdriver trying to break it free. I will reduce my extrusion multiplier a bit and see how that works. If no luck, what are chances of you providing another copy with slightly increased gaps for those with printers not dialed in as well as yours?

+1 for a modification with greater tolerance.

All 3 of my attempts are fused solid. Even scaled +10%, with 0.15mm layer height, and 85% extrusion multiplier.

Using slic3r or Cura, most of the air gaps just disappear when slicing.

I will, but not for a while (As in probably a few months). I've got a massive backlog of other work I need to focus on.

The way I free mine up is:
Once the print is finished, check for a clean break on the lower surface. Often that first layer is a bit thicker and goes down a bit flatter so this lower layer is often seized. One way around this is to use a raft. I instead just used a chisel to scrape away a bit of the first layer of plastic until there was a clean separation around the pivot. There's a chamfer at the pivot as well to minimise this problem, but even still a first layer can easily go down with more thickness than that.

Then, once I was happy with that, I lightly pushed my knife edge scraper into the gap in the layers between the outer plate and the plate plate. Not far, only a mm or so, just to make sure that there was a gap between the layer to layer. I also did the same between the inner and middle plate.

Then, I just started working the mechanism until it freed up.

Appreciate the reply. I will give that a shot and see how it works. Which program did you design it in? I'm thinking k may import into fusion 360 and see if I can increase the gaps a bit.


Did it sieze between each layer, or across the pivots? If it’s between layers (so plates glued together) you could try with a finer layer resolution. If it’s across the pivots in each layer, then perhaps decrease extrusion rate.

I ended up making my own version of it similar to yours. This way I can print and then adjust tolerances to allow it to free up. Thanks for your time and inspiration.

I'm having the same issues. I printed the latch on it's side but the 0,2mm seperation is not enough. The parts are sticking together as the layers ,which should be seperatd, are droping down and glueing together.
@jondevos: can you please share your version as remix?

I had te same problem,
what i did i print it on the side en when done fill the sink whit hot water let it sit for few sec and try move the handle with some force
and then again water and with a a small wrench take the small moving part and there you go
srry if my english is not that well ;)

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