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BLV mgn12 3D Printer mod for Anet A8 / AM8 / Prusa I3 clone

by Blv Oct 21, 2017
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which heating bed do i need for which pad?

I have installed Leds under the x axis. in some of the pictures there is a wire guide on the left, I cant find the stl for this bit any help would be a great help thanks in advance...

Hello guys! This is so much fun building! Any suggestions where the X motor 4010 cooling fan is wired on mainboard anet original? I am guessing wired in parallel with extruder fan (fan 2) or directly to 12 v on psu? Thanks.

Either option should work just fine. The fan 2 output is connected directly to the 12V in from the power supply so it really makes no difference.

Ok thank you, sounds good. Will do so.

For anyone using the original A8 extruder mount, be aware that there are two different spacings between the X axis rods - newer A8s have the rods about 2mm further apart. The mounting plate in this project has the holes spaced for the older A8s - if you have a newer A8 (like my late 2017 model) the holes will be spaced too close together to be able to use all 12 screws. It should be OK to use just the top 8 screws to hold the extruder in place.

Also, with the original A8 extruder you will lose a few mm at the back of the bed. Not an issue for me since I'm soon going to replace the original A8 extruder with a Bondtech BMG and E3D V6 but something to take into account. Of course, you could always just move the two vertical extrusions back 10-15mm to get that space back.

is this mod capable of adding a 300x300 build surface, as well as going 400 high? I could not see anything that stated this

If you add 100mm to all extrusion dimensions and get 100mm longer linear rails it is possible to build 310x310x ca 400 build volume. I build mine as such. However then the bed construction will be totally different.

Here is mine https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3350726

Y-Carrier Base Plate for AM8 BLV mod (extended)
by karip

Hi BLV thank you very much for this great work. I have almost compled my own build of the BLV mgn12 in 300x300x400.
I would like to reuse my old E3D V6 hotend and 5010 cooler fan. I will not use BLtouch.
-But I cannot find the step file for the 5010 fan duct in this project even though it is shown on two of the images.
Anyone knows where to find this?

Comments deleted.

What is an N3 washer? According to the PDF it goes on the X Tensioner under the 16T GT2 idler. Got any links?

Probably a typo for M3 washer.

Is there any reason we can't reuse the Y belt tensioner from the AM8 if we're reusing the Y motor bracket from the AM8?

I can answer this myself now - no, there's no reason to not use the AM8 Y belt tensioner. It works just fine with this upgrade.

The guy asking about v groove that's what I have used on my build apart
From the X extrusion that's T slot.
The T nuts are a problem with V groove, I turned them upside down might have to file them some are tight fit.
I'm still in the build stage. All linear rails are 500 long but found out my Zs need to be 550 mm long
The base is made from 2060 V groove. The Y Rails sit on 2040. I'm not using any springs on my bed, as I'm running the Anet with out.
The guy asking about lining up the rails I made a steel bush that goes into the BLV drilling jig made from silver steel and hardened, if you know someone with a mini lathe they could make them out of mild steel and case harden it.

I'm amazed with this mod and with your cube.
I want to ask you one thing. Where do the value of this modified printer reside compared to other pre-assembled (or so) printers on the scene?
I would love to build this printer. I very much enjoy tinkering arround. But I would like to know if, despite its lower total cost, it competes on an equal footing with others such as e.g. the CR-10.
What do you guys think?

Excellent work! I'm going to be converting my AM8 soon, and I'll probably end up building your cube at some point as well. I have a Titan Aero extruder with a volcano hotend, and couldn't find a mount I liked for this mod. I did find one made for the CR-10 on mgn rails, so I have made an adapter for it. It is designed to mount http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3154738 and can be found in the "Remixes" section!

Creality/Tornado Titan Aero (V6 & Volcano) Mount MGN12

Awesome! Can you make one with a BLTouch mount?

I can look at cutting something together from those mounts as I may get a BL Touch eventually. But I only made https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3450867, not the actual carriages.

BLV MGN12 AM8 Titan Aero Creality adapter
Titan Aero mgn12 carriage (CR-10, BLV mgn AM8) w/ BL Touch/ABL


I already built the AM8. This version calls for longer extrusions for the Y axis than the Pheeny version. Why is that? Can I use my existing Y extrusions?

Being almost completed with an MGN build myself, I second MMcLure's recommendation.

I started with 340's and quickly realized I needed the 364's.

So use the 364's (or longer) in the Y.

It looks like this mod may be based on https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2462104 instead of the standard AM8 design. When I built my AM8 I went with the longer Y extrusions. You might lose some build space in the Y axis if you use the 340mm extrusions instead of the 364mm ones.

Anet AM8 Variant
by ranita

Does someone have some guidance on how to get the rails lined perfectly? I have printed the jigs, but I don't know the best way to proceed. Please give me some tips if you have :)

Print 2 jigs for 2020 and 2040. put them on each end of the rails then tighten the screw. i hope it make sense.

BLV mgn12 3D Printer mod for Anet A8 / AM8 / Prusa I3 clone
by karip

I have read some comments about the rails are best mounted on T-slot extrusions. I have bought my frame from RatRig so I have V-slot extrusions. Does that mean this mod can't be used on my frame?

Sure you can.

Hi All

I designed alternative z holders - to hang the x-gantry from the top. This enables using GT2 belts between the rods


BLV MGN mod for z holder
by karip

The heated bed of my AM8 is rock solid but my extruder got a bit play which causes a bit of ringing only on the y-axis. So is it possible to install this mod only on the Z and X carriage for now without any changes to the y-carriage?

Thanks in advance. Looking forward to build this mod!

Yes you can.

Use am8 mod for the y axis

If I am reading correctly OP already has AM8.

BLV MGN mod alternative X-motor holder for nema 17
by karip


do you have a carriage for piezo orion ?

i love this build and have started printing the bits while the 2040's come from China.. Is there a mod available for anti backlash screws on the Z leads thanks in advance. . . . . .

I have mod mine too, i have posted them in this Forum while ago, you might need to file the screws. NOTE: the backslash nut neets to push down - I have seen people to install them upside down, as you do not want the spring being loaded by the weight of the x axis.

thanks will give it a go....

You can try this.
Mirror it in your slicer for the Right side.
It's what I'm using for mine, my unpublished design.
Orient them on the build plate with the recess down.
Hope they work for you.

Thanks will check it out.. just doing draft prints at the moment checking measurements etc

Comments deleted.


i search a fan holder for my original Fan from anet a8 i use the Carriage for E3d V6 without sensor


Do you have an updated Marlin without ABL ? I have 1.4 from my Anet A8, but I added Ramps 1.6 and TMC2208's so I think I should update my Marlin. What do you think?

Thanks !!

Hi blv, can i request remix parts for mgn9

The mgn9 is too narrow to fix on the 2020 / 2040 extrusion.

I manage to work it out with mgn9.i align the x axis assembly to the z rail easily. printing at 80mm/s and no more ghosting no more ringing. thank you for your design.

mgn9 rail is 9mm wide, aluminum t-slot channel is 6mm wide (misumi or similar) .

not exactly, there is a small step on the edge (both 0.5mm) which leaves you with 1mm on each side. Therefore, you have almost no room for rail adjustments.

oh are you talking about the aluminum extrusion or the mgn9?

I think I found the right colors in the BLV Cube.
PTEG transparent in green and blue.

Yes, i added the filaments link :)

I have a question about the colors. Which colors green and blue are those used on the AM8? It may be that the two colors maybe have the name signal blue and signal green. Since I have just ordered the parts for the AM8 in China is still a little time left to print. Wanted the AM8 like to build in the same colors as in the pictures, because he really likes me.


Would it be possible to have the STEP file of this component: "Anet_extruder_adapter_beta.stl" - which is embedded in the zip file.
I would like to remix it into a base to support a bondtech extruder with an attached E3D V6 clone and a 40mm fan. Tried with the STL converted to step, but the meshes make rework difficult.

I can't find an extruder carriage that fits my needs. Most of them are for bowden, not for direct printing ; and if they are, most are for titan extruders.
Thanks upfront !

I just made an addon for your design, an extruder holder to mount on x axis to have tube as close as possible to hotend :

short bowden on x carriage (flying extruder like)

Is there anyway of adding 3mm to the back of the z motor mount's and need to have side fixing holes moved back 3mm.
The same for the z top holder's. Have a fixing idea for the mgn12 linear rails but need some adjustments to those parts.

Has anyone ever tried this mod on Ender 3? I reckon the dimension is almost the same

Could someone please share the config for the duet 2 wifi? I'm really stuck.

me too! Would be great if someone share this

I'm not sure if it helps, I did upgrade the motors (before I used 800mA for Anet motors, now got the ones BLV mentions in his Cube build). I changed the extruder to a geared Bulldog extruder i found second hand. Also, I have a inductive Z probe attached to the carriage.

So you will have to change the mA for the motors and jerk/accelaration settings, and your Fan configuration

; Configuration file for Duet WiFi (firmware version 1.21)
; executed by the firmware on start-up
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v2 on Thu Mar 21 2019 19:17:44 GMT+0100 (Mitteleuropäische Normalzeit)

; General preferences
G90 ; Send absolute coordinates...
M83 ; ...but relative extruder moves
;M572 D0 S0.1 ; Linear / PRESSURE ADVANCE
; Network
M550 P"name" ; Set machine name
M552 S1 ; Enable network
M587 S"network" P"password" ; Configure access point. You can delete this line once connected
M586 P0 S1 ; Enable HTTP
M586 P1 S0 ; Disable FTP
M586 P2 S0 ; Disable Telnet

; Drives
M569 P0 S1 ; Drive 0 goes forwards
M569 P1 S1 ; Drive 1 goes forwards
M569 P2 S0 ; Drive 2 goes backwards
M569 P3 S0 ; Drive 3 goes forwards (Extruder)
M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1 ; Configure microstepping with interpolation
M92 X200.00 Y200.00 Z400.00 E495.00 ; Set steps per mm ; BEFORE 100, NOW 495 FOR BULLDOG XL EXTRUDER
M566 X600.00 Y600.00 Z24.00 E300.00 ; JERK; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X15000.00 Y15000.00 Z600.00 E6000.00 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min). 200mm/min
M201 X3000.00 Y3000.00 Z100.00 E10000.00 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2) ; X3000, Y2000 seems to not give errors.
M906 X1400.00 Y1400.00 Z1400.00 E800.00 I30 ; Set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout

; Axis Limits
M208 X-20 Y-24 Z0 S1 ; Set axis minima
M208 X220 Y220 Z240 S0 ; Set axis maxima

; Endstops
M574 X1 Y1 S0 ; Set active low and disabled endstops

; Z-Probe
M574 Z1 S2 ; Set endstops controlled by probe
M558 P5 H5 F120 T6000 I1 ; Set Z probe type to unmodulated and the dive height + speeds
G31 P500 X37 Y-3 Z2.42 ; Set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height. - 0.3 (21.3.19). x37 and y-3 (seems correct), Z2.50 slightly too high. 2.4.19)
M557 X20:200 Y20:200 S40 ; Define mesh grid

; Heaters
M307 H0 B0 S1.00 ; Disable bang-bang mode for the bed heater and set PWM limit
M305 P0 T100000 B4725 C7.060000e-8 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 0
M143 H0 S130 ; Set temperature limit for heater 0 to 130C
M305 P1 T100000 B4725 C7.060000e-8 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 1
M143 H1 S275 ; Set temperature limit for heater 1 to 275C

; Fans
M106 P0 S0 I0 F500 H-1 ; Set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off
M106 P1 S1 I0 F500 H-1 ; Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off (H1 T45 )
M106 P2 T45:65 H100:101:102 ; Set fan 2 value, Turns ON when MCU temp = 45, Fullspeed when MCU =65°C

; Tools
M563 P0 D0 H1 ; Define tool 0
G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Set tool 0 axis offsets
G10 P0 R0 S0 ; Set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C

; Automatic power saving
M911 S10 R11 P"M913 X0 Y0 G91 M83 G1 Z3 E-5 F1000" ; Set voltage thresholds and actions to run on power loss

; Custom settings are not configured

; Miscellaneous
T0 ; Select first tool

My Anet A8 has an upgraded Y Carriage from Gulfcoast Robotics, so the Y motor mount included here puts the motor too high for the bed to travel back all the way.
Link to Y carriage:

Anyone have the same issue?
And if you did, what did you do?

Thanks !!

Uhhhh... how did you install the new carriage plate? The big rectangular cutout is supposed to go towards the back of the printer and that gives pretty much the same clearance for the Y motor that the original mount did. At least it does on my AM8 - the motor is definitely high enough that it would interfere with the carriage if I installed it the other way around.

The cutout is for the motor clearance. If you do have that Y carriage, or anything similar, you will still need a different mount for the motor and the belt tensioner and belt. I found a complete set that worked for me.


Y Axis Assembly for MK2 Y carriage
by marcbea

OK - I'm not understanding the problem. The mount for the motor on the AM8 seems pretty much identical to the mount for the BLV, and my Gulfcoast carriage plate has no problems with my AM8's Y motor bracket and I have about 1cm of clearance between the top of the motor and the bottom of the bed. I did have to change the attachment of the belt to the carriage by 3mm vertically to ensure the belts were straight but otherwise there were no other changes needed when I switched carriages.
Other than the 3mm vertical distance at the belt attachment, I don't see that the BLV would require extensive changes either.
What was interfering in your setup? Was it the carriage/motor, bed/motor, or belt angle?

With the newer Y carriage, WHEN MOUNTED ON THE LINEAR RAILS, there is a height problem with the Y carriage hitting the motor and the provided mounts from BLV for all 3 parts (motor, belt holder, and tensioner) do not work !
This is a problem I have had building mine, using the Y carriage I showed in my earlier statement, and using the provided mounts by BLV.
At first it looked like everything would be fine, but once I installed it all, I found the problem.
Your Y carriage may be different and you may not have the same issues when mounted on the linear rails.
But if you do, I have provided a link to parts that do work once installed.
Just because your Y carriage worked on the AM8's round rails, does not mean it will work on the linear rails.
Go ahead and print out BLV's parts and try them, but if you don't have a second printer, I suggest printing the set I provided as a backup, before dismantling anything.
Good luck.

You can see a picture of my Y carriage at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3562310 and see the AM8 motor mount in the back. I could see problems with the height of the belt and the idler, but that honking big cutout eliminates any interference with the motor.

AM8 Gulfcoast Robotics Y carriage underbed cable chain adapter
by MMcLure

Wait until you do the install, then you will understand.
I am not the only person to have this problem, because I found the fix that someone else designed very easily.
Good luck

But that solution you linked to is for a Y carriage without the motor clearance cutout. I'm still not understanding how the Y carriage that you linked to (which is the same one I have) that has the clearance cutout could possibly hit the motor. I can see the actual bed hitting the motor, or the Y carriage hitting the front idler, or it being impossible to get the belt straight because the motor is too high, but it seems impossible that the Y carriage would hit the motor regardless of the height of the carriage because the Y motor would fit in the cutout. On my AM8 there's over 5mm of horizontal clearance between the back edge of the cutout and the motor when the bed is all the way back.
Unless... with the BLV mod does the Y=0 position end up with the bed a few cm further back that when using the round rails? Was it the back edge of the cutout (right next to the belt attachment holes) that was hitting the motor, or was it a different part of the carriage? That would explain your problem and would make sense. If the bed actually needs to go that far back to get the nozzle to Y=0 I can definitely see the issue. If it's just extra travel into negative Y it would probably be easier to fix by moving the Y endstop.

I can't explain the problems I had any clearer than I already have, it is all pretty self-explanatory.
And I don't have the time to explain every millimeter of difference in detail like you seem to want.
The parts provided DID NOT WORK FOR ME with that Y carriage!!
If you have the same carriage, it probably won't work for you either.
I have told you and everyone else that it did not work for ME, and if anyone else has the same problem, I provided the fix that worked for ME.
If you don't want to trust my experience, then don't, that's your choice.
I provided your solution, you don't like it or want it, or you don't think it's right, again....that's your choice
But I have answered all I am going to.....you are now on your own.
Good luck.....have fun with your build.....and good bye.

OK. I'll drop it. I was just trying to find an easier solution to the problem, like moving the endstop or maybe increasing the thickness of the parts that connect the bed carriage to the MGN carriages. Have a nice day.

"there is a height problem with the Y carriage hitting the motor" - but the cutout should make that impossible! The cutout goes around the motor so the height of the Y carriage should not matter at all. I'm still not understanding - on my AM8 the plane of the carriage is about 1cm below the top of the motor so a solid carriage would hit the motor before the bed could move all the way back. However the cutout gives all the clearance it needs to move all the way back to the endstop. Unless the Y endstop is positioned such that the carriage goes past the space allocated by the cutout?

I can't explain the problems I had any clearer than I already have.
Good luck.

I just did the upgrade on my AM8 and there was absolutely no problem with interference of the bed carriage and the motor. The bed hits the endstop before the edge of the cutout hits the motor. So I have no idea why you had a problem unless you're using a different carriage or have the endstop in the wrong place.

Note - although I have done the AM8 upgrade (before getting the GR plate) I have not yet done the BLV upgrade, so I'm honestly curious about this.

I found the perfect solution.
Someone else had the same problem, and here is how to fix it.
If your Anet A8 Y axis bed mounting plate is upgraded or different from the stock one in any way, the provided Y motor mount will raise the Y motor too high for your bed to travel it's full length.

Here is the solution.

Y Axis Assembly for MK2 Y carriage
by marcbea

Question for Ben and all of you. I'm building Ben's MGN cube. When I'm done I will have a Anet MGN mod without electronics sitting around (yes with the rails). How much should I sell it for?

The hugger shroud with the 8mm sensor for the e3d heatsink has the 8mm sensor hitting into the vslot extrusion, can some one show me how they've attached the shroud and the blower fan to the E3d Hotend

Please Help

So i ordered all of the parts to build an AM6. I have all the Frame Parts from the AM8, but want to do the linear rails for the Y and Z Axis Only.

What are the length of the 2040 extrusions that the Y Rails Run on? My Y Rails length are the 340mm with the 313mm from, back and cross member pieces.

Id love to know how to convert the X carraige on the A6 over to a linear rail.

Is there a way to use this carriage on the stock anet a8 rails?

Hello 3d printing gurus!
Nice project going on here. I love the thoroughness of our beloved BLV! Plus the community.
I would like to know if anyone has experience with aliexpress cloned duet wifi? any good? This could cut cost significantly. Or what would be a second choice board for this lovely build?

Hi, to be honest the clone will work great, I bought this one long time ago and its the same as my original board.
Here is the main issue: the manufacture is not paying fees for the original designer, so basically by buying the clone we are supporting
thefts. This is why i bought another original board and not recommend buying cloned boards..

Could you please send me the config files for the duet wifi? I'm really stuck.

I thank you for your recommendation. Yes we cannot support copy right infringements.

I purchased a new Ramps 1.6 for this new build. Would I just use the same marlin from my old Ramps 1.4 that I used on my Anet A8?

I believe you can use the same version you are currently on, but I'd recommend upgrading to the latest, which I believe is 1.1.9.
That's what I'll be using on my new printer build, unless a newer version comes out in the meantime.
The choice is up to you of course.

Here comes updated corner block with aligned holes

Karip, I really appreciate the work you put in this models but I'm afraid that the rear left and right corners might need some adjustment too.
It would also be nice to reference the change in the zip file and the changelog.

I downloaded the zip file yesterday and after having printed, I also noticed the misalignment of the holes. Luckily, I stumbled on this comment thread, otherwise I would have printed the 3 other blocks for nothing :)

Yep, like I did. Twice.

Comments deleted.

I have made modification to cornerblock, the other set of holes were not properly aligned to the Extrusion slot. Will post it today here.

I hard to understand from the picture what is the part.

One of the four corners, e.g. Front_left_corner.stl.

Comments deleted.

Hy Blv

Can you please share the config files for the duet? I cannot find all the info I need to complete the website config they provide.

Thank you.

hello, someone has the files .cad or .scad to be able to modify them, why buy iko rails of 12mm

Hi its inside the ZIP file, its a Step file that can be open with a cad software.

if in the zip are the .stl which I do not find it easy to make small modifications!!

i see that you did this in fusion360, any chance you can put up the f3d file also?

btw... there is no zip file but the step files are there :-)

Unfortunately, it is not possible because of a technical issue. i imported another part that was made separately as "linked". exporting the f3d is not possible because of that. if i am trying to "brake" the link it deforms and change all the related sketches. So for now i can only export it a CAD file that can be open with Fusion360 and any cad software.

you think this will have a small chance of working?

i have now played arround with the design and i have made a new bed carriage plate for the mk42 & mk52 bed

i noted that you have added the option for a fan to cool off the X motor, but not the Y motor, why is that?

i will try and make a top mounted Z endstop, with a top mounted endstop of each Z rail marlin can sync them automatic

if you have an idea for that i would like to hear back from you

had a quick look at the step file, i think it will do the job

but one thing i made a note of is that the bed mount holes are 214mm between and not 209mm, what bed is it?

yeah, those linked things can be a real pain, i know that from when i build the Mendel90 design in fusion

my plan with this design is to mod it so there is space for the mk42 and mk52 heat beds, they share the same mounting holes as the mk2 bed but i has 2 extra holes in the center and of course they are bigger than the mk2

Hi just finished build do i need any input in marlin for stepper motors setting
Or will the Anet a8 file in marlin do I have the gears and belt in this process still got the original gears on steppermotors but changed the ones on the belt tensioners to the ones in this project need a bit of help thanks

Hi could I get a 235x235 head bed on this build with the extended height build log or do I need to extend x axis also don’t know what room to leave around bed and frame thanks

anyone got a simplify3d fff file for printing with pet-g?

I've gotten good results with this. Don't forget to take the Teflon out of your hot end.

thanks i will give it a try.

Didn't you have a excel sheet that includes on the file before for customizing build size?

Hi nice build in the process on doing this conversion could someone tell me what I do with the step file in the thing files thanks


Love your modification of the A8, I have one that is almost stock, the only upgrade I have done is changed to a e3d hotend and a bowden extruder setup and for me that upgraded the quality of my machine by about 50%.

However i Do have sets of MGM12 500mm Rails and Blocks lying around from another project that never saw the light of day. I dont want to cut my rails so I will uses them at this size and change the extrusion to suit those lengths, my main question is, is there any benefit to upgrading all belts to screws?

hello blv mgn12 con bondtech..and bltouch ???

Hi!, I use on my printer the bondtech bowden style dual geared extruder. It works much better than any of the extruders I have tested so far. I really recommend it. About bltouch, it is not a very accurate sensor (I have tested a chinese one, maybe the original is better, I do not know.), so I decided to drop it. So far I have only the simple Z sensor. I have made a very robust build-plate support, you level the plate correctly once and it will stay like that for a loooooong time, no need for bed level sensor. Very rarely I need to adjust a little bit. Check my HGL15 XY upgrade for this printer:


HGL15 X&Y rail for BLV mod of Anet A8 / AM8 / Prusa
Comments deleted.

Hello, I'm thinking of upgrading to mgn12 except for the Z axis as it wouldn't provide much benefit. Are there any mods that have mounts for the Z rods and X aluminium extrusion? Or maybe if someone is interested or bored to make one? I'm not good with cad (have to change that) and I think one would just have to combine the Z mount, X profile mount and this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1919544

Anet A8 X-Carriage Mounts
by Leo_N

I think the MGN upgrade on the Z axis is just as important as the X and Y. Due to the rigid MGN structure the Z wobble effect is 99.9% gone. This is a huge improvement of the 3D print quality compared to the Anet.

I admire you because you did a great job. I will probably resume your information and modify an old Anet A8 already modified with chassis in 2040 Aluminum. Thank you for sharing.

I was curious about the length & height used for the extrusion channels. I've got all the components to build the AM8, and the channels for the MGN mod in the Y direction are 24mm longer and the channels in the Z direction are 60mm longer. Is this just to allow for more travel, or is there some other reason for the longer channels? I'd be interested in doing this mod, but since I already have the AM8 channels, I can't really justify replacing the channels I've already got that haven't even been used yet.

I am afraid you may not have read through the additional text the designer provided. there are 2 size options for the frame, and he mentions specifically that the rail lengths are subject to the Frame option you are using.

Ah, I did miss that. I thought I had read it all, and I looked at the downloaded files and looked through the pdf there. I will look at it again.

Good day. Beautiful design and easy printing. Thanks
Could you add a mount for the 18mm sensor and blow the bowden volcano extruder?

Does anyone know if I can print bigger bed levelling knobs with this mod?

These are what I use.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2956038 (shameless plug, my design, sorry)

Not sure how much bigger you want to go, there's some more space beyond what mine use up.

See the pic.

Yet Another Thumbwheel

I'll print these.

You asked me in a reply how much more room, but that post doesn't seem to be here, although I got email notified.

There's maybe 2-3 mm all around to make them a bigger diameter and possibly a tad thicker.
The end stop gets in the way of a too big diameter, and the rail gets in the way of too thick.
I made mine about as thick and big as you can get and still easily maneuver them when leveling AND getting the bed on and off without having to fight the process.

All I did was use them both up and down, with the small flanges against the Y plate.
(I run a 3 point mount bed with locking thumbwheels, no springs.)

See the attached.

I edited the question about more room out because I decided to use your design.
Thanks for the photos too.
Thanks again !!

Comments deleted.

I'd go with a direct drive extruder with this setup instead of a Bowden tube for even better results. Join it with the Prusa MMU2 to get 5 filament switching.

Can anyone tell me how to connect the bl touch to the duet 2 wifi v1.04? I can't find anything about this.

Hello onthe ED3D v6 clone cube effector what 3d printed blower nozzle fits thanks

Thank BLV, excellent build. I've just published a mod for Quadfusion extruder mount. Meant to setup as a re-mix, but messed up.


Quadfusion MGN12 Mount
by x4tec

Hi mate thanks for all the info just got all parts printed and have stripped my Anet A8 and have re assembled on AM8 frame just wondered if you could send a step by step guide for doing the programming eg what to do with step file, marlin etc
I know how to upload marlin just not up on re calibrating positions for hot end bed size and step files
I am very new to this but have built a anycubic liner plus and am getting excellent results many thanks

Hi again...LOL !
Was just wondering if you know of anone creating a "Z Endstop Fine Tuning Adjuster" like the one in the included link, or will I need to try to make one myself?

Thanks !!

ANET A8 Z Endstop fine adjustment

I came up with something today. Just added a piece to the "X motor holder", then another 2 pieces to print, and I added a screen-shot so you could see how it gets installed Etc. Once printed, you add a 30mm screw and nut to make it work.
This is just a rough draft, so if anyone is interested, that is better at Cad software than me (I made this in Tinkercad), you can go ahead and make it better looking, etc. If you do please share your upgrade with me.....thanks !!

That's actually a really good idea! I had to readjust my z endstop countless time before it was perfect.

On another note. You really shouldn't buy expensive lineair rails from Misumi. Rails from Aliexpress CNA are good enough for this purpose. Remember: you're making a hobby 3d printer, not an industrial CNC machine ;).

Hey BLV,

I was looking at this and figured I may as well just build a new printer entirely with this, but expand it to a 300x300x300 volume.

I am looking at the specs for the BOM (I have an AM8 already so I had the BOM from the old build already as well). and figure if I extrapolate the X and Y by 80mm from the specs you have (You already have the Z stretched to 300mm build volume) I can get the right sizes for things.

I have
4x Y Axis - 464mm 2040 and 2x 500mm MGN (I had 444mm 2040, but moved it to 464mm to fit 500mm rails, I think 450 MGN would be too short by about 20mm if I did my math right).

1x X Axis - 500mm 2020 and 450mm MGN

3x Top/Front/Back - 393mm 2040

2x Z Axis - 500mm 2040 and 400mm MGN Rails

I am planning to also put a Titan Aero on this setup, and build it with steppers that have integrated acme screws (400mm lead) . This is probably a build I will start mid summer, but I want to verify what I am looking at is right here.

Hy Ben Levi. From what I've read on YouTube comments, you upgraded the electronics too. Could you please provide me with a BOM for those?

I would like to purchase my MGN12's from Misumi US but the selection is very confusing.
Can someone (maybe someone who already got them there) give me the part numbers for the cheapest options in rails and carriages from Misumi?
I would be forever in your debt !!
I actually asked Misumi themselves but I guess my order is too small because no-one answered my email.

Misumi's replacement component would be a SE2BLZ13 carriage block.

Same as an MGN12H but only 2 mounting holes on the upper face: not 4.

Add a -400 (or whatever length you want) as in, SE2BLZ13-400, and you've got yourself a carriage block and a 400mm rail, both pieces for only $137.00.

Prices go up as you get longer, less as you get shorter.

Actually $117, with 4 mounting holes it looks like, maybe 2 carriages as well, but thank you so much !!!!
You, Sir, are the best !!

For anyone else needing this information.....

Bed (2 rail with 2 carriage blocks each) -
2 x SE2BLZ13-400 = $117.27usd each
Total (Minus shipping and taxes) = $234.54usd

Z Axis & Gantry (1 rail with 1 carriage block each)
3 x SEBLZ13-360 = $82.89usd each
Total (Minus shipping and taxes) = $248.67usd

Thanks again "MakeItMakeItMakeIt" !!!

Do we really need 4 carriages on the y axis though? Has anyone remixed a version that only uses 2 for the y?

My bad.

They DO have a 4-hole block that matches the MGN12, but the hole spacing is 15mm x 20mm, as opposed to 20mm x 20mm on the cheap MGN's.
They also have a 2-hole block as well.
My ducking fyslexia had me confusing the two.

Last I checked (2 months ago?) it was $137 for 1 400mm rail and 1 block.
Good to see them getting cheaper.

And please don't call me Sir, titles are so demeaning.

LOL !!
Thanks again !!

Hy all. I need some help. I want to order the extrusions, but the seller has 3 models : v-slot, t-slot with 5 mm slot and t-slot with 6mm gap. Does it matter what I buy? I'm only asking because I want all the parts to fit with the rest of the BOM. I already ordered everything else.Please help

The 6mm gap version looks likes the one that I also used for my build :). The 5mm one will have issues with the M5 bolts and the v-slot one might have issues placing the mgn12 rails on top (not sure though)

If the 6 mm was good for you that's what I'l buy. Thank you very much.

I bought my profiles here: https://www.dold-mechatronik.de/index.php?k=428&lang=eng

They even sell complete kits now with all the profiles.

Hello BLV, one more question, where did you get that spiral cable tidy from?

Please ignore, I found it ;) Your documentation is very thorough ;)

Could you make a BOM of screws/parts we need to buy for those who've already assembled the AM8 mod? I'm not sure which screws I do and don't need to buy, and I really would like to avoid spending the extra money. If there already is such a BOM, would you kindly direct me to it?

Best Regards,

Hi, if you download the files, then check the Readme that is attached, it has the full BOM inside it with all the screws etc and links to purchase them. ;)

I’m looking for a BOM that does not include the AM8 BOM, not the complete BOM. I already have an AM8 assembled, and don’t want to buy more screws and bolts than I need.

If it doesn't exist, you could put both BOM's in Excel file and subtract the nuts and bolts so you don't order too many.

Hello Guys, can anyone help me with a few things. I've read through the comments and can't seem to find a definitive answer. I have the following extrusion sizes. 2x 500mm, 4x 364mm, 3x 313mm and the 2020 @ 420mm, which is identical to the required list in the BOM. What size build plate will I need? Is it the standard 220x220? Or is it the 300x300?

The the standard build plate is 220x220 :)

Thank you ;)

Dear BLV,
could you please point out a compatible fan duct for the MK3 carriage? If I am not mistaken there's no fan duct for the MK3 carriage in the files section. Thanks!

You can find the link in the Thing description, however here is the link: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2712591/files
attached screenshot of the item you need download from there.

Prusa i3 MK3
by Kissman

Thank you very much!

this printer looks like it can fall down the stairs and still finish the print in process.....

I think it will :)

Yeah, AM8 frame is very sturdy, with this mod is even stronger. Thanks for this awesome project BLV!

Hi Blv, my comment kinda got buried. So here it goes again :). Could you please share your acceleration and jerk settings for x,y and z? I'm still finetuning the printer, and would like to know what the settings are I should aim for.

If it helps you I share mine. I have X-Jerk:15, Y-jerk:5, Z-jerk :0.4 and Extruder jerk 15 with acceleration 2000. But I think you have to do some test for yourself and find out which fits better for you.

for accurate details i am using acc 1200 and 12 jerk

thx for this build, i do it too…
can you please share the step file of the ANET adapter ?


Thank you, i just noticed its missing.
don't worry, I will upload it today.

can you please tell me how can i fix the Timing belt in this head ?

Do you know if ptfe chain oil could be a good option to lube the mgn12 rails ?
Also you commented somewhere that you upgraded the mainboard to a mks-gen board, could you possibly share the stl ?

Kind regards

Has anyone seen a dual E3D V6 bowden X-carriage for this BLV MGN12 mod?

looks good, can't wait for my next build.

Really nice project....I'm looking forward for my next project...my wife will not be happy :)
I really appreciate your work here and your willingness to share it with the world. The first printer you designed really works great for me.
By the way I'm a quiet experienced electronics designer (also in embedded software design I'm not quiet a beginner). If you think you need some support with electronics design for your new printer I'll be more than happy to jump in.

I have been printing with this mod for the Anet A8 for a few months now. On Black Friday I ordered a DuetWifi board. I was wondering if you had the configuration files for the DuetWifi.

Hey Eric,

I have a DuetWifi as well. I use sensorless homing for X and Y (not perfect settings yet though) and a regular (A8) endstop for the Z. I did try a BLtouch clone, but it didn't work unfortunately. You probably can find some remnents of the Gcode for that in here.

Please use this as a starting point and try to understand all the lines of gcode. Start with config.g and then the home.g files.

Hey martijnpeters,

Did you replace the connectors on the servo motor end or just keep what the Anet had to plug into the DuetWifi?

I made this printer with all new parts. Maybe not the best design to do that, but learned a lot this way :). I didn't replace the standard connectors that came with the new steppers (standard dupont).

what steppers did you get?

Hey BLV, finally finished my printer :D. Still have some calibration to do though. Could you share what your Jerk and Acceleration settings are?

Hey ,

is there a STEP-File for the ANET A8 Exruder Adapter Beta available?



is there someone who knows the print dimensions of the BLV? And which dimensions of extrusions do i need for a 300x300 mm buildplate?

Thanks in Advance

Hi Klaus,

if you use the offered metal frames from dold mechatronik the xy-size ist 200x200mm. The printing height depends on the length of the used z-profiles. In my case I bought the 500mm z.profiles. The printng height is about 30-35cm.

A 300x300mm build plate is 10cm longer in x and y direction. So you the profiles in x and y direction must be 10cm longer than for the standard 200mm x 200mm build plate (as used in this project). It highly recommendes to read the PDF-drawingin the dowloadable files here.

This project is compatible to the Anet A8 (or compatible printer) dimensions. For other printer dimensions it is easy to dadapt to your own requirements (see technical drawings). But tke care how yout build plate ist mounted to the frame.



I suppose you're from germany:


Couple of notes to share about MGN12's purchased from China.

1) I recommend you order a few extra MGN12H blocks. Some of them I got in my order from China just would hardly move on the rails and were out of spec or something, and the others glide like butter. I think there is fairly consistent quality failure rate on those MGN12 blocks from China and I am guessing everyone who just orders exactly the number they need will end up having 1+ that do not work very well. So personally I would recommend you go ahead and add an extra 2-3 of them at the same time when you order the rails etc. I have ordered some more to hopefully replace a couple I am not happy with and now I have to wait for more time. You can always use the extras as spares. Here is the link to extra blocks on the aliexpress store recommend by BLV: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-MGN12H-block-for-MGN12-12mm-Linear-Guide-12mm-linear-rail-way-Long-linear-carriage/32772242506.html

2) Most of the MGN12H blocks I received from China, had some ball bearings missing. In order to work fully, the blocks need to have both sides filled with only a single empty space left the size of one ball. I would suggest you order some extra ball bearings to have some to fill in the missing ones from shipping and to use as spares. The balls in MGN12H blocks are actually imperial sized 3/32" ball bearings. There are supposed to be 33per side and 65total in each MGN12 block I think. I ordered these from Ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-32-Inch-440-Stainless-Steel-Ball-Bearings-G5/29193908693

3) After having used a couple of techniques for cleaning and lubricating the ones I got from china, I would say the complicated process of totally taking them apart as shown in some youtube videos just is not needed. I did that and it worked ok, but its lots of trouble and its easy to bend the guides out of wack. I had just as much success simply soaking them "as is" in alcohol a little bit to clean the old oil/grease off of them, and then just spraying them with WD40 (as a cleaning solvent) and moving the ball bearings a little bit to ensure the WD40 gets down into the channels. And then just drying them off, and lubricating them with some lightweight 3-in-1 oil, like you would use for sewing machines, or door hinges put right onto the bearings and wiping off the excess. That is all I had to do to get the good ones to run extremely smooth.

Nixfu, thanks for the tip. I noticed that not all rails or carriages are made equal. Even after cleaning and oiling I had loose and tight combinations. Some swapping of carriages did work out fine for me. My Z are somewhat tighter than the X and Y's ; which I think will work out fine. If you have some spares, you can make more combinations :)

YES I did the same thing. I had to try different combinations of rails and carriages. I believe there is as much variation in the rails as there is in the carriages and I also found different carriages work better on different rails.

Thank you nixfu :)
I bought some great spare steel balls from here: http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/c9yLlfIC

I just happen to notice something.. in this photo there is fan cover on the x-axis motor. Anyone have any idea where that came from its not in the files.

Well, there's no photo in your post so.....

I believe (but I could be wrong) that is the 4010_Spitfire_Cover.stl,

It's the 1st file in the Thing Files list.

Alternatively, here's a 4010 fan shroud I modeled up. Similar but slightly diff.

Hi Guys,
Im currently using AM8 and has plans to upgrade it to MGN12 rails, can someone point me to the right BOM coming from AM8? I think I only need the mgn12 rails as I still have some spare 2040 extrusion as excess from the AM8 build. thanks

Unfortunately its not well documented clearly because the BOM listed on this page, is a sum of all the parts needed from the both the AM8 and new parts needed. But, here is what I remember off the top of my head in doing it myself, forgive me if I forget something.

1) You will need to replace the Y axis sides with longer pieces to hold the MGN12 rails for the bed, so that will be 4 364mm 2040's, (2 for the side rails, and 2 for the Y bed rails).
2) You will also need 1 piece of 420mm 2020 extrusion for the X carriage rail.
3) The X and Z axis frame extrusions are the exact same as the AM8 so those can be reused.

4) If you use those extrusion parts above, then you will need the "option 1 (original AM8 size)" MGN12 rails as listed, 2x400mm(y/bed rails), and 3x350mm(2 for Z, and one for X).

That is all the "metal" you need to go from AM8->BLV mod I think.

There will be quite a bit of printed parts, most of the AM8 printed parts have to be replaced. In addition to all the X axis carriage parts, etc, you will also need to print new Z axis motor mounts(and top if you want it) because the Z-motors have to stick a little further out away from the frame, than the ones on the AM8 in order to accommodate the thickness of the new X carriage system.

Also, you will need some additional types of screws than the AM8, particularly the M3 type that are used to mount the MGN12 rails to the extrusions. Go through the BOM and see what you do have and don't have on hand already. Also look at the diagram, it has the screws needed for each part listed as well. That would help to make sure you don't count the screws already used in the AM8 etc.

That simple process of going from the AM8->BLV really should be documented better on the front page I think.

Why is it that the Y extrusions need to be longer?

thanks, greatly appreciated.

What is that strange knob in one of the images? I don't see mention of it anywhere? the one on the display, it has like a fine adjustment dial on it.

This maybe what you are talking about? https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-44169

It is listed in the notes at the bottom of the BLV page.

Based on your BOM, you listed M3x20 screw, M3x32 screw, M4x10 screw, but the hyperlink shows socket head screw. Is it a sockethead or tapping or machine screw? Please advise as I really like this design and I am shopping around for this project, thank you.

One thing to do would be to look at the drawing. It has every screw listed next to the holes in every part. I think that the socket head screws are used quite a bit when it comes to putting together the X-axis carriage which has multiple parts that get mated together.


Does someone have a site to buy the extrusion? I would like black version, and cheap is best :) I've seen some arbitary cutting on ebay, but it is expensive. I cannot cut it myself..

I am currently looking at Misumi for the extrusion, good price and they can cut in certain length you desire.

There are vendors on AliExpress selling am8 kits. Also it’s the best place to find cheap extrusions in standard (350,400,450mm, etc sizes). And there are also vendors who will sell cheap custom cuts there as well. I had good luck ordering a couple of custom cut from this seller: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/bVhycC2G I got 2x 364mm 2040 for only $12.34 US delivered.

Thanx! I will check it out! Was the quality good?

No problems at all. Aluminum is pretty much aluminum, the miling was just fine.

How did you get it so cheap shipped? I priced everything out and came to $300 they were charging allot for shipping even though it says free shipping??!!

I bought from this seller: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1PC-BLACK-2020-European-Standard-Anodized-Aluminum-Profile-Extrusion-100-800mm-Length-Linear-Rail-for-CNC/32918828145.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.26804c4d1TkRuz

If you ask them they will do arbitary cutting. Also if you split the orders you will get free shipping :) But if you add all at once it is not free shipping..

Send them a message asking for a quote for exactly what you need. The web page can’t calculate on demand cutting.

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Will this work with all 3030 extrusion? Someone is selling some locally for $5 a bar at 40" long. But my whole frame would have to be made out of this. They don't have any other sizes. What parts would have to be re-sized for 3030?

No, the parts will not fit to 3030. I had the same idea at the beginning since 3030 profiles I already had, but you will have to redesign most of the parts, it does not worth the effort. The 2020 aluminium frame costed me about 40$.

Thats what i was afraid of, thank you. Where did you get your material from? aliexpress is charging me allot for shipping!

I found a local store near my hometown on the internet, they cut it to size and shipped it with a courier.

Reading through the comments, it seems like some are maybe using 300x300 beds. Does a 300x300 bed work with the enlarged BLV (364mm) Y-extrusions while keeping the 313mm X-axis? Or maybe switching to a 200x300 Prusa i3 MK3 bed size work better?

It seems like 400mm rails that are listed in the BOM for original AM8 conversion is too long for a regular size AM8 y axis, even though that is what is in the BOM. 400mm would stick out over the ends. 20 + 20 + 313 is only !353mm total length from outer edge to outer edge of the bed Y axis of the original AM8.

The inner and outer 2040 extrusions are 364mm in length and are called out specifically in the exploded PDF.
364 + 20 + 20 = 404.
Plenty of room for 400mm MGN rails.
2mm of space to the outer extrusion on each end.

FWIW, I started out with 313mm rails (not sure why) and went up to 364mm after the fact, so you're not alone.

So just got my rails in and my bearings don't line up with any of my holes in my hotbed plate..... Ideas? I don't have to drill it do i? This is off the printer just bearing in my hand and the plate. Mgn12H bearings.

There's an Adapter Block that M3 capscrew bolts to each MGN carriage block, then the Y-carriage plate screws down into each Adapter Block, then the Hot Bed fits onto the Y-Carriage plate.
Without the Adapter Blocks you would have to drill the Y-carriage plate.

Doh, took so long to get my rails I forgot I printed those!. Thanks

i was wondering if it was possible to put a 400 x 400 mm heated bed on an am8 conversion

Can I use this design to rebuild my Prusa MK2,5?

i bought these 90° corner brackets and plates to fix the base extrusions together but for some reason, the assembly isn't completely flat when i lay it down on a flat surface (wobbles a bit)

In some of them you will have to take out with a pliers the small bombs below the part.

Comments deleted.

Great design! I'm in the process of modifying my Anet A8 to an AM8 and really considering these mods/upgrades. Where can I find the STL files for the main board and dual mosfet case you show here? Thank you for sharing!

Comments deleted.

Can you please add the STL for the MK3 fan duct ?

I just finished my blv mod and I have some kind of z banding in all my prints. The surface is smooth but the lines are visible. I have tried different temperatures, different layer fan speed and no luck. I am using mk3 x carriage.

What can I do to solve it? Where could be problem? Any ideas?

Thank you very much.

Obvious question, but I'll ask anyway...

Are your Z-steps calibrated accurately?

I read somewhere that whatever is is (I'm no authority but it makes sense to me), it should be an even number, as decimal values grow over time layer by layer, resulting in a taller than desired print.

That's my .02¢, hope it helps, let us know what you find.

Thank you very much for your comment!.

The z-steps and the extruder steps was calibrated. After your comment I double checked all my belts, pulleys, etc and everything seems to be fine.

Then, I started playing with the z-steps and the banding changed but always was there. The next step was check z-probe height and VOILA!. Banding is much less visible (at least to my eye). But now I don't have my z-steps calibrated :(

I will try to recalibrated the z-steps tonight with the new z-probe height and i will post the results. Thank you!

Where can I download it?

Comments deleted.

I have an AM8 already, do i only need the MGN rails and carriages (as well as the 3d printed items), or do I need other stuff?

You also need 3 extrusion
2 y @ 340mm
1 x @ ???
I'm not sure what the X length should be. I THINK 420.

Wait so can someone explain this too me. I'm looking to go from my AM8 to this setup. I understand that i'll need 3x 350mm Rails and 2x 400mm Rails. But do I also need to buy the bearings?? or do they come on the rails, the site makes it confusing a little. Someone please replay because this is a difference of over $100.00. Thank you

It depends on what you order and where you order from. Most come with one, so you should be set for the 350mm rails (they only need one each). The 400mm rails for the Y axis require two (for the y carriage), so you'll probably need to order two.

When I ordered, the seller from Aliexpress contacted me and asked which rails I wanted the extra bearing blocks mounted on.

Oh I need a total of 4 bearings for my Y axis?

Dang now that i'm looking at the PDF i'm seeing this haha. Back to AliExpress I go.

Yeah. Check out the PDF in the files section and you can see the bearing blocks.

Y-Axis = 4 Bearing Blocks
X-Axis = 1 Bearing Block
Z-Axis = 2 Bearing Blocks (one one each side)

All of the ones I saw on AliExpress came with the bearing carriages, including the one I bought

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Does anyone know of any x carriages that use two 40mm notcua fans rather than the 30mm and stock anet blower?

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1337200 Something like this is what I use.

E3D V5 & V6 SINGLE & DUAL fan duct holder (Prusa I3) VER 2.0
by trustfm

Yes, there is a remix suit for 40mm fan: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2841379

MK3 - 40° E3D V6
by Lupo77

Thank you, I suppose one as a noctua is better than none as noctua, was hoping to replace both, I had a look at the radials but there isn't any that use both and have bltouch, I'll try printing this tomorrow!

Just ordered some blue PETG so i can get started on this asap. really looking forward to getting my a8 setup as a reliable printer. looks like i have a good test for my i3 mega i just got too. Really awesome design mate

My MGN came a few balls short. Will it affect performance over time?

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Thank you my friend !
always enjoy creating and sharing.
I have a new project coming soon :)

Comments deleted.

Hi, I am really impressed with this design and the effort you have gone to and as such i starting my own build of it.
My question is: Can all the parts be printed in PETG or do some need to be/benefit being printed in PLA?
Many thanks

You can print from PETG, ABS etc.... PLA is simple to print and very common, but it dont like cyclic mechanical load, it will break after some time...

I've searched around online and can't quite figure out...what's the difference between MGN12 and MGW12 rails?

Thanks a ton for this. Looking forward to the build.

I don't know if this has been already asked. but will the stock sizes for the extrusions handle a 310-310 bed or would I need to adjust the x acis accordingly.

Hey Blv why are the corner pieces different? The back ones having the holes and slots in them? I'm sure there is some reason I just haven't figured it out yet, and I could not see any pictures of the back where you had them on. Thanks for this awesome mod by the way.

The back corners allow for routing cable in and out of them, if you like.

Is it compatible with anet 6?

Where did you get the green spring you are using to group the wires together? I like that idea compared to the spiral or split looms I've seen.

It's in the description;

Green PVC electrical tube for the extruder wires: sized 13mm - 1/2" can be on any electric shop. it can be called also: "Split Wire Loom" can be found online here Or here
Link1 was ; https://www.aliexpress.com/af/Split-Wire-Loom.html?SearchText=Split+Wire+Loom&d=y&blanktest=0&initiative_id=SB_20180712230700&origin=n&catId=0&isViewCP=y&jump=afs
Link 2 was; https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dtools&field-keywords=Split+Wire+Loom&tag=tv-auto-20

A great job!
I'm just waiting for the guides, the parts are slowly printing and I'm getting ready for folding.
But I have a problem:
What cooling of print for this project will be the best? The best for two fans (40x40x10mm) - Hotend E3D V6 + Titan + bowden.

I've been trying to get this to work since April and still can't get it up and running, I know it's not the designers faults as theres so many other people who it works great for.

My current big issue is that the z axis binds terrible, I've managed to get it lined up and moving slowly until I introduce the z axis lead screws.

They seem like they're always bending the coupler forwards, I've got them lined up horizontally and I've bought brand new lead screws from a reputable source which are straight and not bent.

But because the z nut screws seem like they sit a mm too far forward the printer makes an extremely loud noise when the z axis moves.

I no longer have the ability to print new parts, I'm completely lost as to what to do now.

May you offer some advice, I'm feeling ready to throw hundred of pounds worth of printer into the bin.

I'll add as well, the lower down the X carriage is the more the t screws wave around at the top, they're probably spinning in. 30-40mm circle. I really can't figure this out and really need your help, I feel like a failure...

This is weird.. but don't worry my friend
Please send me private message with pictures of your build and i will try to help you.

Thank you very much, I have PM'd you with more information.


thanks for the big project! already made mine.. but...

is there any mount for E3D with precision Piezo?


does anyone know why there's a 0.1mm opening between the leadscrew nut holder and the 2020 extrusion ?


0.1mm~ for strain relief.
After tons of motion/strength simulations on fusion360 it was necessary in order to make it work right without issues on the long terms.

alright, thank you :)

For all of you out there who are building/have built an AM8-BLV:

I'm a big dummy.

WHERE can I find replacement parts for an MGN12 carriage?
Specifically, the ball bearing retainer wires?

You wouldn't believe how it got lost so I won't try to explain.
(THAT'S where the big dummy part fits in)

I don't really want to buy a whole new carriage if I can avoid it.

Thanks in advance.

unfortunately, I don't think its sold separately

So I'm not sure what to make of this... I had an idea... but now I'm having second thoughts... maybe even third thoughts...

I'll get back to you...

Where did you find the black linear rails? Also do they slide smoothly?

So, other than it being a pile of parts waiting to be assembled into a printer, what are these second and third thoughts?
Put it together, make it print! :-)

Or am I missing something here completely?
(That's been known to happen...)

Second thoughts would be to do an enclosed printer for ABS printing. I have enough material to build the frame that way, but I'm going to have to figure out a design for it. And my current Anet A8 is a bit out of sorts for the moment, so I'm stalled while i work on that.

Is there a reason why you wouldn't want to make the enclosure a separate structure that can simply set down over/around the printer?
That way it's not actually part of the printer design, but an accessory for it.
You could even incorporate a door if desired.
I guess it all depends on your current print space/shop area as to whether it would be feasible.

Just thinkin' out loud....as that is what I'm in the process of making for MY current work area.
I have a filament booth over each printer (doors to get plexi front panels, and they foam-seal when closed, with a rechargeable de-humidifier in each booth) ), shelving above the booths (in progress), and a 1" MDF table surface sitting on a 10-drawer base cabinet with 24in full extension soft-close drawers.

Once my AM8-BLV is done, it'll go right next to the Maker Select in it's own cubby.

Each shroud will be a 4 sided plexi box (open on the bottom and back) that slides right over the front of the printer and butts up against the booth support frame. Filament will lead out of the booth down through the shroud into the printer. (I'm still on DD, no Bowden yet) I'll put a door on it as well.

Maybe you'll find some inspiration from this, maybe not, but hopefully so. :-)

PS As I designed and built all this, I have the plans/cut lists/BOM available to anyone who would like them, just message me.

That is one serious setup you have there. I actually like the idea of a contained unit. I have the metal for it, and I might even have enough space to pull it off. Probably will be a week or 3 before I start working seriously on it. I have a couple of beach trips in a row that take priority!

Hi all folks!
I've just upgraded my stock anet a8 to AM8 with MGN...
I'm having some issues with ghosting on X and Y ...
with acceleration 2500, Jerk 20 and print speed 150.

All parts seems to be tighten and I can't realize any slak.

reduce de speed it's not my intention, because I've upgraded to AM8 MGN just to increase the print speed... so, can I do anything to improve?

I attached one picture of an printed piece with the setup above.

A few questions:
what hotend you are using (direct/bowden)?
what are your infill settings? inside walls before outerwalls?
have you cleaned your mgn carriage before installing? (completely disassemble, clean parts and steel balls with alcohol/wd40, oil it with white lithium grease or sewing machine oil and reassemble every thing)
the rails should be clean (side paths also) and oiled to.
don't use regular grease only white lithium grease (or sewing machine oil). at the beginning i had ghosting too. i used bowden and used a white lithium grease. changed every things..
p.s: if you have original Hiwin rails you dont need to clean it.

First of all, thanks by the response.
Some points:
Slicer Cura 3.4.1

  • Layer height: 0.24mm. Botom/top layers: 5 layers, Wall thickness: 0.4mm Inner before outer walls, wall line count: 4
  • ABS 220ºC (best temperature based on temp tower print test), bed 110ºC
  • Hotend direct E3d Aero Titan clone with heated block volcano clone
  • Infill 20% Grid
  • Only oil with sewing machine oil but without any cleaning.. (maybe that's a problem)

Hotend with aero is a bit havy for speed prints but i can asume you have used a pancake motor.
Also the Chinese rails or any rails that are not original Hiwin comes with a preserving grease (anti corrosion).
The problem with that is that this type of grease sticks to the steel balls and every internal component.
motion isn't smooth and and the caarriage tend to stuck while moving.
Try to clean it properl, you can find some youtube video demonstrating the cleaning process.

What a great project ! congratulation, it is simply awesome. I was going to start the same thing and found your project ! I am so happy I did not do it myself, it would never has been as cool as this project !

I already ordered a few parts but I can not find any mgn12. Do you have a suggestion for a model / supplier ?

Great job again !Thank you ver much for the great project !

Hi bud
Thank you very much , i appreciate that :)
You can find on amazon and aliexpress a good cheap rails.
The RDC store at AliExpress that i bought from started selling a nun standard rails
So i deleted my recommendation from the description. I ordered 4 rails from 4 different
Stores to test them. After testing them i will publish a new recommendation.

what do you mean by "non standard" rails? They're not suitable for your mod? RDC store has a lot of good reviews, I'd like to order the rails but your comment put me off. There's also "LUT Bearing Store" with cheap prices on Ali but I do not know if it is realiable or not.

I just bought 2 rails by LUT, they suck don't get them, they don't ride smooth even after cleaning, lubing removing or changing bearings.

After ordering from 5 different sellers i found a seller with a good rails.
i have posted the link at the thing page: http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/b4ZT5JAu

yes I ordered before finding about your thingiverse. thanks but that link is so expensive for me, do you think i could just order RDC and remodel things around it? How different is it from spec?

Did you even look on Ebay? That's where I got mine...

Which famous printer has the same quality as this one after the mod? (I want to compare costs to see how much I can save building my own instead of buying an off the shelf one).

I think Ender 3 has something similar, and it´s cheap!

I don't think so, the structure of the Ender 3 is indeed strong, but the rollers aren't and can add errors

How much does this mod costs? (not including the printed parts, just the linear rails, frames and etc).

I want to calculate my final cost if I by an Anet A8 and mod it.

Could someone provide some average costs like: "extra cost if you alreday have an A8", "Extra cost if you are starting from scratch", "just the frames", "+ new electronics", "+ new nozzle" and etc.

I think this will make it a lot easier for us to measure the price/benefit of the mods.

i already own an A8 and im doing some rough costs. The frame,rails and hardware looks to be about $250. That's not including an upgrade on hot end.

Just wait until you add in all the nuts and bolts! I think I have over $50 in hardware alone and I'm a frugal shopper!

Do you think all these new frames and rails make it better than a U$200 creality ender 3?

interesting, I was imagining something around 500.

Are you including a new controller board? Or will you use RaspeberryPi for wifi?

Hi, I'm plannig to build youre design it is great.
But I want the possibilty to mount a 300x300 Heat Bed to it.
So my question is, which profiles have to be longer to mount a 300x300 Heat bed?
And which lenght must they have?
Best regards and thank you for youre help

I just ran across this. I'm going to try and mod it to fit the rails.


Modular Y Carriage V2
by sarf2k4

I think I may have asked this question before. Honestly, I don't know the answer yet. I can tell you the 300x300 bed I ordered actually measures 327x327. What ever calculations I made at first are a little off because of this. It also makes me wonder what the dimensions of the glass top I have still sealed in bubble wrap truly are. Originally I would have thought Add 80mm to the x and y planes.

Once I get my build done I will try to post it with a write up for the mods I made. I also went with the Ramps board since I'm going dual extruder. I have a feeling I'm going to have to design a new electronics enclosure. I went with a pair of mosfets that are a little larger than my A8 has. Plus I'll need to fit in a Raspberry Pi because OctoPi was one of the best upgrades I made to my first A8.

I'm stalled for a few days on the build as I have to build a new bench for the printer. The foot print is definitely going to be larger than the A8s. When I ordered my t-slots, I just broke down and got 10 pieces of 1 meter. It was a little more than twice what I need, but the cost break was worth it and gives me left overs for a future laser cutter. I finally decided to go that route as it was considerably cheaper than having custom lengths ordered. The stuff should be easy enough to cut with a hacksaw, but I have a band saw with a metal blade anyway.

As for the mounting of the bed, I still have to work that out. the H frame for the Anet is way to small for the 300x300 bed, so I'm guessing I am going to have to make a new oversized one. Right now that is my biggest concern as the holes to mount it to the tracks have to be 100% accurate to avoid binding.

Hi! Have you successfully installed a dual extruder setup?

I am currently printing my parts. Just wondering do I need to use supports. At least example orientation in the picture for X-tensioner requires supports.

Yes bud :)
some of the parts do need support. the X-tensioner must be printed with support

Ordered the last of my parts for this tonight. I'm both excited and nervous about this. I realized that once mine is built, the steppers and stop switches might just be my only Anet parts left.

I got my Ramps today and knowing the rest of the parts are probably still 3 weeks out from China, I am thinking about starting the modding of the Marlin files for the larger heatbed. I went 300x300 as I commented earlier.

I'm also thinking about only printing the most essential parts in advance So I can print the rest of the parts with the higher quality BLV.

Has anyone come up with a Chimera mount that incorporates a auto leveling sensor yet?

Hi guys. In the middle of finalising the printed parts for this. Does anyone have a plan for a mount for an E3D Titan Aero?


Hi Dashik, I acctualy mounted a E3d Aero Titan clone on my AM8 with MGN12 rails at this week, I choosed the X carriage modular project
Printed this parts:

Modular X-carriage for ANET A8 / AM8 / BLV

Soon I plan to make a model for Titan Aero

So, I have the 2040 rails from Ratrig AM8 kit. Y axis rails are 340 mm. Will this do, or do I need to replace them with the longer 364 mm as mention here? Meaning do I need to get 2 more, or replace the old and get 4?

Hello everyone. I'm a total noob when it comes to 3d printing and 3d printer in general. I bought the anet a8 to upgrade it to the Metal Frame by pheneeny from the begining. I bought everything except a couple parts just enough to keep me busy. I ran into the BLV printer mod and it's just what I wanted. I started buying the rest of the parts I need to continue on the BLV mod. I just need a couple more pieces and I'll have all the parts I need. My question is. I haven't started printing any of the parts from the pheneeny list and just started with the BLV only for now. Will this cause any problems? I will like to get a new hotend and extruder. I'm not to happy with the stock anet a8 one. I have been looking into the Titan aero but I haven't been able to find anything on a mount for the BLV. Will I be able to use the Titan or should I just get the one that everyone here is using? All help and suggestions are highly welcomed. Thanks in advance.

Hi. I now have all the frame parts etc and I'm prining off the parts.

My question is how are the two inner bed rails secured to the frame?



Actually I just rewatched the video and wortked it out :D

Hi to all from SLO. I am also finishing my BLV 3D project. Just have one question. Where could I find so sweet Green wire guard/tube on X axis? Thanks

HI :)
Its a "PVC Flexible Corrugated Cable Protection Pipe" or called also: "Split Wire Loom"
outer size: 13mm
inner size: 9mm
measure in inch: 1/2"
its supposed to be in any electric store..

Also, i will appreciate if you could please publish "post a make" photos :)

Looks awesome!
I'm prepping to build my own.
I have but one question/concern.
In using a single rail/single carriage for the X-axis, is there any "slop" axially around the rail with the extruder carriage attached?
I mean, it's now a single point/axis of load bearing/motion.
With smooth rods, there were 2 axes. Rails: we only gots 1.
Is it that much better?

One rail is much more rigid and strong then even 10 rods together.
it can take up to 20 times more load then smooth rods. its sustain loads from all directions and offer much more rigidity along with accuracy.

Thank You!
I am/was concerned that a single MGN12H carriage won't/wouldn't maintain axial stability along the rail with the weight of the extruder carriage on it, i.e., twisting of the carriage. That's what I was pondering on. Apparently that concern is not necessary?

Those look Sa-Weet!!
Can't wait until mine does the same thing.
Thanks So Much!

Which layer cooling nozzle works best with the E3D V6 and this BLV mod?

Also which carriage and carriage lock would I print for an E3D V6 with a remote driver and a LJC18A3-H-Z/BX Capacitive bed auto level sensor.

Hi Mr_Dabrudda, I acctualy mounted a E3d Aero Titan clone on my AM8 with MGN12 rails at this week, I choosed the X carriage modular project, only lacks a LJC sensor support, I just wraped mine LJC sensor at the backplate with zip ties...
Printed this parts:

Modular X-carriage for ANET A8 / AM8 / BLV

Okay, so this looks like a project for my old A8. I actually have a new a8 on the way to print the parts with, and just for general use. I probably could have saved myself $100 and just ordered new rods to replace my warped ones, but hey, now I'll have lots of spare parts... or the Anet parts needed for one of these.

So I guess my big question, and I saw one person asked in the comments, hads anyone put one of these together with a 300x300 hot bed yet? It seems like the time to start with the big bed upgrade would be from the beginning. I will probably start ordering the parts for this in the next 3 or 4 days. I was hoping someone had already worked out the sizes for the big beast...

Wow, this is not an inexpensive project! I have the nuts and screws , the new bed, the Chirera, another set of Mosfets, the RAMPS board and display, and 2 rolls of PETg ordered. I have to go out and work a little! Next round of orders will be the second extruder motor, PTFE tubes, glass plate, and Swiss clips to hold the new glass plate in place. After that I'll have one more round of orders for the Aluminum Profile pieces, the MNG12H rails, the taller LEAD rods and extra carriages, and what ever incidentals I may have forgotten!

Yep, definitely need to go out and get money!

Super excited about this printer. I ordered the PETG in semi clear and plan to embed a few extra LEDs throughout the printer just for the aesthetic alone. I basically added 80mm to the x and y related extrusions to make up for the larger bed. I imagine resizing everything in Marlin will be a blast, heheha. I guess it will be about a month before I post my pictures.

Nice design !

Hi @Blv ,

Can you post your marlin values :

DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {500, 500, 15, 25}
DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {1000,1000, 100,5000}
DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 500 // X, Y, Z and E acceleration for printing moves
DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 1000 // E acceleration for retracts
DEFAULT_TRAVEL_ACCELERATION 500 // X, Y, Z acceleration for travel (non printing) moves

and your Simplify3D values for speed

Comments deleted.

New version of Simplify3D profile, for test

Is this designed for the v channel extrusion? I just printed the z motor mounts and they do not fit the standard non v extrusion I used.

Otherwise coming together well.



Hi, it is suitable for T-slot extrusion only. V-slot is hard to use with an mgn rails since the gap is to wide for the rails.


First of all, cred to your design! Loving it!!
I’m about to embarge on the project of converting my A8 to your design with MGN12 rails. But I have a question I hope you can clearify a bit for me.

I can see that a lot of people are using the ratrig extrusions on their am8, and converting to rails. At the same time you comment above that rails only work with T-slot extrusions and not V-slot due to wider track. Does this mean that the v-slot doesn’t work att all or is it just harder to get it right with a nice tight, snug and straight fit?

Thanks again for your great work!


Hi there,

I've bought the aluminum sections from Ratrig to build this and i'm about to order the MGN12 rails.

My question is this, I can see the sizes for the carridges for the hot plate and vertical axis are 400mm according to the exploded view diagram. What size for the x Axis rail though? I bought a peice of 2020 x 420mm for it but can I use a 400mm section of MGN12 for the x axis carridage that the extruder is mounted too? looking at the parts it looks like they sit atop the rail at either end if that makes sense?

You suggest MGN12 360mmm but I was wondering if I just get a standard length of 400mm if it will fit without cutting it.



It will fit but you will have to add length to the x extrusion in order to have enough place for the endstop switch.

Comments deleted.

Thanks! When I have my printer up and running (probably in a few weeks time), I will try it and give some feedback!

I want to attach an EZABL to the MK3 carriage, I've added the 18mm ring to the hugger, attaching it to the cable ring.

Do you think it will work? I'll add it as a remix if it does. I'm very far from getting to the point where I can print it and set it up so it'll be a while.

It looks great! just make sure the external mount will not touch the extrusion.
Great job ! :)

Comments deleted.

Amazing project, I'm printing all the PLA parts before starting using PETG...
But before switching, I've got few questions for you :)
Are the JIG necessary ? (PLA ? infll : 40% or more ?)
Are the feet in PLA ? (infill : 40 or more ?)
Is the X motor holder in PLA or PETG ?
Thx a lot

Jig: must be 40% infill or more and it can be printed with PLA (accuracy is important sop flexible jigs can be a nightmare when installing an mgn rails).
Feets: must be made with 40% infill or more (i used 70%) since its holding all the printer weight (can be printed with PLA).
X-motor: must be made with PETG since PLA tend to bent in a hot temperature and as you know the x-motor with long printing can be very hot.

Awesome design friend!
Im looking to do this, but I have this dual printer head already on, will the carrige you have work for this?
Link to the dual head I have - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-Arrival-3D-Printer-Dual-Extruder-Upgrade-Kit-for-Zonestar-P802N-P802M-P802Q-P802QS-Two-Color/32718458942.html

You can use the chimera hotend (dual hot end and it has many good clones on aliexpress).
our appreciated friend: mr_emme, has made a remix for the chimera:

Chimera Compatible - support for MGN rail
by mr_emme

Thinking about going with a Chimera. I guess my question is would you go with 2 in and 1 out or 2 in and 2 out. I can see how the latter would keep colors from mixing and have a cleaner definition at color change. I'm guessing that would also involve a little coding trickery!

You have many fans but the mainboard only has room for 2 (the blower and cooler on the hotend) - how did you connect them all?

12V fans which doesnt have to be controlled (PWM or just on/off) can be simply connected directly to PSU 12V output.

Nozzle for MK3 redesigned, better orientation of the airflow for much less cool head print

Nozzle for MK3 redesigned

Hello! I would like to start this build, I just need some guidance on where best to start since I dont have an Anet a8 yet. Should I buy an A8? or is there better electronics that I can use? is there a list of recommended electronics?


No need to buy an Anet A8.
Just get the electronics: 3d printer board + screen, motors, endstops, heated bed, hotend, wires, fans, TR8 threaded rods, extruder parts..

What size lead screws did you use for the z axis. Did you use 8mm ones? Thanks

Hi :)

Yes i have used a 400mm T8 stainless steel threaded rods (matching the Anet A8 threaded rods):
Rod diameter: 8mm
Screw pitch: 2mm
Lead: 8mm

How much of a difference in quality did this upgrade prove?

How much? well..
i forgot how z-wobble and z-banding looks like.i cant any longer help or advise with the community about those problems :(
the printing speed is much faster - high acc and speed without losing quality. usually i print at 100-80ms looks like printed at 40ms.
printed shapes are perfectly aligned, the circles are round and the square straight (high accuracy). Also, Its much much silent then
regular linear bearings and much more stiffer and rigid.
I actually hate this upgrade, because it made me feel miserable since i have nothing left to upgrade :(
Therefore i have started planning a new 3d printer with mgn rails and different kinematics..

did you create profiles for Simplify 3D? or for Cura ?

I ma using Simplify3D

Could you share this profile with us?
Please :)

Could you share this profile with us? I'm almost finished with my build, just waiting for the last parts to arrive from China :)

What carriage setup is the best? Just the basic e3d v6 clone mount with no sensors and fang duct?

I am using the basic one with the BL touch - works as a charm

First test, without fixing the wiring ...

it works...

BLV mgn12 3D Printer mod for Anet A8 / AM8 / Prusa I3 clone

Cool !!!! :) :) :)

Comments deleted.

Hello guys,
Someone can provide the Marlin configuration file for bltouch working with this configuration? I cannot found the right way to make it working...

hi, great design. i love the fan cover.
what is best position to print the lcd cover ? is there a way to hide the mounting screws in the back ?

Where is the file for the thing that you printed for the cable guides the neon twist around the cable lines from the extruder and a hotbed? I want the same style!!!

Its not a printed file, its actually a pvc pipe for electric wire.
Down the comments you will see, we have talk about it.

I’ve found a way to attatch a 200 x 300 mm heat bed to this as well!

how did you do that ?

Nice !
i would appreciate if you could please take some pictures :)

Are their versions of pieces like endstops that are compatible with ramps? If not, do you plan on making them?

You can find what you are looking for here:

Ramps Endstops
Comments deleted.

Hello. Very nice project, I'm doing it right now but I'm stopped trying to understand how the Y endstop works. If I place on the back profile, the micro didn't reach the plate. May you give a pict of your setup?


Of course, tomorrow i will take some pictures for you :)

I'm stuck on Y endstop. May you send me your picture or someone else may help me? Pleaseeee

I am truly sorry, apparently i have sent someone else the pics in private message.
Here are the pics (its was taken long time ago on early build stage)
The y Endstop mount has 4 holes:
2 big 5mm holes for the m5 screw - securing it to the extrusion.
2 small holes for the m2.5 screw - securing the endstop switch into it place.

Many thanks! I'll wait for your picture.


This is such a beautiful design! I’ve always loved mgn12 rails as they’re more silent and precise. Thank you!

Made. And made. Thank you BLV!

Thank you Krame !!!
You have made a really good job with your "HULK" printer (since its green :) )
I really appreciate that you have shared the photos of your beauty
Thank you :)

Hi, what nema engine model do you recommend to build this printer.
I would like to keep my anet a8 in working order.

Hi :)

If you would like to keep the Anet A8 and build another printer, then
i highly recommend SingaSong Nema 17 17HS4401 stepper motor. Its much better then the
original Anet A8 motors and much more cooler when using a tmc2130/tmc2208 stepper drivers.
5pcs can cost you 38$ (Cheap and reliable) Search at Aliexpress for item: 32376023464

Enjoy :)

Thank you.
It is ordered,..

however, I saw that the axis of these engines was 5mm.
On the nomenclature you indicate pulleys with a 3mm axis
2 x GT2 16T idler (3mm bore)
you need pulleys with a 5mm axis?


The 5mm pulleys are for the motors shafts
And the 3mm are for the idler, such as the one that goes into the tensioner

The 5mm Pulleys are only for the stepper motor shaft and the 3mm are idler pulleys.

Yes that's right.
Sorry for the mistake.

glad to help bud :)

My stock Anet A8 got knocked off my table by my kids and a few frame parts broke/cracked. Was looking to replace it with this setup. Would anyone be willing to help me out with printing the parts to perform this upgrade? Im kinda angry this happened but life happens i guess. I will compensate for material used. Message me if you can help me out.


Yes, I can help if you still need it.

that would be great

Hi ! would like to build one of this , and can you help me with the length for the extrusion that I need to build ? what in my mine is prefer to print 300x300 and high is 500 and above , can you give me the build length for it , I mean the length of the extrusion , mgn12 rail and the threat rod and etc ...
Thank you :)

Jimngu, did you ever come up with the sizes you need? My A8 is have issues binding on the X. Rather than dropping more money into new rods I actually just ordered a new A8 and started looking at this design as something to do with my old printer. Naturally I thought bigger is batter and found a 300x300 heatbed available.

So anyway I have decided to go large and am getting ready to start ordering parts! Worst case scenario, I might just break out the calculator and figure out the sizes that way, but I was hoping someone else went before me!

I have a problem of offset printing, how to center my nozzle for printing ??
I use marlin

Hi :)
It's very easy to fix.
There are many Youtube guiding video tutorials about centering the bed. Just follow one of the video guides.
Please notice that inside the zip folder you will find file named: dimensions.pdf
This file include all the needed numbers/dimensions in order to center your bed.

ok i m on the start of printing the parts needed apart from the am8 which i allready have.....and i have this question about
what filament to use..iguess most of the parts will be pla and some parts will be abs or other......the thing is that i have a lot of pla and i want
to use it.....which parts are the critical to print with abs ???????because i do have to buy some.....all of them ??? thanks and great job again

Hi my friend :)
Inside the zip file you will find BLV_mgn12_mod.pdf file, there you will find next to most of the parts the recommended material.
My personal recommendation is to use PETG/ABS with most of the parts that there is a load on them or next to hot area such as motors and bed. (bed adapters, tensioners, mounts and so on.. )

Hi, first of all, absolutely amazing project, thank You ! I'm very tempted to do the upgrade ! But on that particular question, I find the pdf not usefull (or the pdf I get is not what was intended) : there is only one page, one image, with "sometimes" material indicated (but we have to search a lot to find what to print with what). Could it be possible to have a text table, listing materials recommanded for each part please ?

ok thanks i will print in abs,i have not tried petg before and i m not use ti it.....i dont know if its easier or not

Is there a cable chain available for this awsome thing? I couldn't find one in the files. I don't want have my cables hanging over the printer.

Hi, I found a problem with your Fan Duck.
When the cooling starts, the temperature drops to 180 ° and does not rise because the inclination of the fan duck is towards the sensor.
I made several changes, then I found another solution. I have also raised the fan plug to avoid out of air.

.It seems to work well

Hi my friend :)
Its seems that we are having here a misunderstanding..
I think that you are using the wrong fan duct. Its definitely doesn't look like Prusa mk3 circular which i designed the carriage to suite for.
as i wrote at the description: "New MK3 carriage made for Prusa original MK3 nuzzle fan ..."
Please enter this link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2712591 and download the correct fan duct (i've attached an image).
personally i think that prusa fan duct is the best..
Please notice that you will have to do an Auto PID while your fan is ON in order to get the accurate temperature at PID process.

Prusa i3 MK3
by Kissman

Hi, I did a remix of the MK3 pieces. I made a 40 ° bend to put a 40mm fan

Why do you have the extra blue "extension" on your radial fan? Does it reduce noise?

great solution for better cooling!

I have everything currently ordered to build this, but I want to go with a direct drive titan with an E3D V6 hot end, and bltouch. Is this a possibility, currently, or will I have to modify things myself? I was thinking about trying to do dual titan/E3Dv6's, but that would probably be too much to hope for here. :D.

Hi Techrev
In order to use titan you will have to modify it.
but in case you will want to use chimera (2 hotend) there is already a remix for it :)

Chimera Clone Mount

Thanks :D. I don't know that will work for me as I already have 2 titan extruders and 2 e3d v6 hot ends that I want to use. I will try remixing this, maybe, to work with the carriage and see if it's ok https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2240611 Otherwise I guess it will probably be trying out bowden. Bowden seems to be good, but I've heard it doesn't work well with some materials.

Dual E3D Titan Aero

Hello and sorry. I'm starting with the testing of mine (iron version).
Could you make the MK £ attack for the Chimera in the future? Thank you.

Hi bud :)
There are remixes for the chimera carriage.

the MK3_V6_hugger.stl does not slice correctly in S3D