Loading

MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.

Download Now

CaptObvious

Katana - Seven Interlocking Pieces

by CaptObvious Sep 22, 2017
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

Hi. The collar on bade one is printing as a single perimeter with no infill in S3D. It's filling up with supports instead.

Did you forget to uncheck "single outline corkscrew printing mode"? Sometimes I'll forget to uncheck this S3D option after doing a vase or planter in spiral mode.

no, the rest of it was solid, just the collar was empty.. looks like the part was nonmanifold. i was able to repair it in repetier.

oh sorry.. it wasn't from your parts but from the original source.

If I print at 100% infill, how strong will it be? How heavy?

Hi QED, my instinct tells me that if you set the infill to 100%, you wouldn't get much added strength compared to setting the infill to 50%. This model is not meant for fast swinging or for combat. I suggest you print the smallest of the seven segments and test out its strength and weight. You can also test the fit of your wooden dowels, if that's what you choose to use.

I have never had a harder time getting something to print. Did both handle pieces and the first blade piece, but the rest of the blade... wtf... cant print it upright because it doesn't adhere to the bed well enough, so somewhere after 50% it just pops off. I've printed probably 6 or 7 blade pieces that either printed like shit, or broke. (I would not recommend printing this thing horizontally, the blade edge is much too weak.) The holes on blade piece 2 and 3 aren't big enough for a 3/16 dowel, don't know about the other blade pieces, i haven't gotten that far. :/

Thanks for the feedback. Sorry to hear that your prints aren't turning out how you hoped. In the description, I gave a few tips that should help. I'll copy them here: "To improve bed adhesion I used rafts for most of the blade pieces (not for "handle_1" and "blade_1"). Print one of the smaller pieces first to make sure your dowels are fitting snugly. (You can cancel the print after the dowel part has finished printing, then try fitting your dowel). I'm getting snug dowels when printing at 100% scale on my printer, but yours may be slightly different."
If your dowels are not fitting, try increasing or decreasing the scale in your slicer.

This is a genuinely good remix, a large improvement from the original, strange and hard to print design. This honestly could be featured.
CaptObvious,your one of the better, more active designers on Thingiverse. Keep up the good work.

Could you make a version for my "6 x 6 x 6" printer? It's just barely too small (like a couple millimeters) for my printer.

Featherheart recently remixed a version with smaller peices, maybe it'll work with your printer.

Katana with Sheath

So you know, there's a warp on the blade in the file blade 1 after you added the rod holes.

Is there a way to get this model without the fake Hamon? It kinda ruins an otherwise awesome design, for me at least

The Hamon is part of the original file that this was remixed from. You'd have to ask gungn1r.

how strong would this be at like 50+ infill? like if i made two would i be able to dual

Thanks for your question. This is more of a prop then a dueling weapon. The strength depends on if you're printing vertically or horizontally. Horizontal printing would be much stronger, but when you slice it, it will need supports. Print one of the smaller pieces first to make sure your dowels are fitting snugly. I'm getting snug dowels when printing at 100% scale on my printer, but yours may be slightly different.
When swinging the sword around with the blade's edge leading, it exhibits good strength. When swinging it sideways, it is kind of wobbly.

thank you for including me on your remake. it looks real nice.