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High Clearance CR10 OEM Fang Mod

by Tacblades Sep 20, 2017
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How does one find out what Verison of Marlins on the M/C? CR10s here?

For the fun of it i used our GCODE.

Whats that bit of code at the start ath puts down that zig zag?

I use this too (don't have it to hand as not near my PCs)... but if you want to use that, check out Tacblades Marlin 1.18 here on Thingiverse. You don't need to do the FW (though it's great) but in there he links to his machine start and stop codes. The purge and wipe is awesome, ensures that your print is good to go when it starts... no more of this half a skirt business!

Thanks for the time you put into this project. I placed a plate of colored water under the OEM setup then after the mod and witnessed a huge difference of air direction. Aside from leveling knobs, this should be one of the mandatory upgrades. And I did have to replace the main mounting screws with longer, 20mm ones. Also, not many people have 2mm(I assume) taps for the top fan, so I rammed the screws in and broke the mounts. Nothing a zip tie couldnt take care of.
And for those looking for CR-10 3DS code, here's the OP's file location: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/naxjixxn0svvlik/AABbbazd29hZjYSg4v73LatPa?dl=0

And the original setup over water..

Do you know what size screws I would need to order for both bits?

I have printed this and after seeing your water tests I want to fit this sooner rather than later... but have no idea about screw size.


could you possibly change the mounting?
Instead of using the Hotend screws, the screwholes, which are used to hold the stock blower assembly of the Ender3?
That would rule out temperature issues with the hot end.

This is quite an old model and i am no longer working on this one.

printed and tested the airflow, which is much more to the nozzle, compared to the stock design
hope PLA will last, but I will use the setup to print a spare one in PETG
Printed without supports, just a little raft was enough
Have a look at the airflow at https://youtu.be/ZoLz5tyeR_c

Works well and prints nicely, however there is an issue to watch out for.
The hotend mounts on the printed part, so it can come loose quite easily if you
turn off your printer before the cooldown is finished, you auto home with your bed
too high or you knock something over. Make sure that it is quite tight and doesnt come loose.

Too hot for PLA you think? Looks a little too close to the heat block.

-Works mostly, was able to get it working with only default CR-10 screws.
-Doesnt seem to melt, or even come close.
-Light, even seems to make my printer sound a little less noisy from fan rattle.
-Blows air well. I have yet to do a test comparing the bridging capabilities of this vs the stock. Will do in the next 2 or 3 hours.
-Fast to install.
-Remember how i said it works? Yeah, only barely... The screws to the heatsink that holds it to the X axis bar are FAR too short for this fang... I 100% had to take off the washers, and even then i just barely got the screws to bite.
-Since this is a high clearance version, you get less direct air. So the air will hit more of the nozzle and just in general have a wider air flow compared to the original.
-Only uses about half of the screws, so you are left with some extra. (extras: 2x blower fan screws - 2x metal frame screws for the original metal cage)
-It is much taller than the original metal cage.
-Took like 6-8 hours to print (With supports/factory file)
-Printing with supports really just makes it much worse, I would advise not to use supports, it only made it rough where the supports were removed.

do you still have the settings used on the optimized gcode file included? I used the gcode provided and it came out much better than any of my prints. I would like to know the settings used on that gcode so i could improve my slicing settings

Check belts are tight and z rod is straight, make sure no play in the hot end. Ensure to calibate esteps and finally to a test print at 25mm/s to see if speed is a problem.

ok I see you prints are amazing yet mine are just eh every few steps up it looks like the layer shifts a tiny bit In every direction then again and again any thoughts?

Comments deleted.

Sorry to hear it didnt work out for you, works great for me :)

I tried slicing it and it was about 9 hours, so I have up and printed the gcode file provided and I am very impressed of how well I turned out better than my prints finish.

The tolerances of the top fan are way off and hard to mount. Once I eventually finished mounting it all together and turned the printer on the fang started melting, so I went back to the stock one again :(

Comments deleted.

hi thx for a job.
just one question: it's OK for CR-10 and CR-10S but CR-10S4 ?
Do you have a feedback on compatibility?

I loaded up the gcode. made some small modifications for my cr-10s and i'ts perfect. Thanks!!

Hello, could you please share what you modified for your CR-10S ? Is it possible to have your modifications?

Spent forever trying to print this thing. Gave up and just used the Gcode and all was well. Just over 4 hours later 70 something percent and the thing self destructs. Was hoping to have something before bed to install after work tomorrow. Glad I didn't trust it and just go to bed... Everything was more or less perfect can't quite figure out why it would have done that. Perhaps the SD card is garbo? Vibration perhaps a factor considering it's profile and after it got to that certain height? It's a newer CR-10S that's printed all kind of little things so far including an 800% Stormtrooper helmet... Any ideas from you more experienced printers? It's almost as if it raised too high and kept trying to print.

It might be worth trying other fangs. But a few things you could try.

Print a tall vase just to prove that nothing mechanical happens at that height.
It could well be the sd card they fail all the time try a new one.
Try a different long print to prove that nothing is overheating.
Sometimes if a fanbis failing or bowden tube not quite right over time you can get heat creep in the hotend leading to partial clogs andbprint fails i dont think you have this but a long print would test this.
Some of my prints are around 6 days so it should be fine.

Thanks for the reply, will definitely check everything. This was the first time using an SD card or Gcode for that matter. All other prints I have done were via STL and Cura over USB. Usually any issue I had was with the initial stick and after it's gotten beyond a certain point it usually has no problem finishing. Machines less than a week old and fans are functioning as they should be. Seemed like it was perhaps getting ahead of itself, skipping some layers and obviously just not sticking to the model anymore which from what I understand could be a bad or failing SD card, this one {should be new came with the machine} but that doesn't always mean it's flawless either. I will upload a pic or two from my phone tomorrow some time and perhaps you can confirm what it may have been if you don't mind.

With all that said I will quadrouple check my bed level etc and perhaps try again. Based on other comments it sounds like you use Tinkercad and the supports in the Gcode are manually placed? I really liked how those turned out and was curious if it was some type of line or zig zag style and how you go about it? Any recommendation over Cura or is it kind of just personal preference?

Printed PLA without support, absolutely awesome. Thanks!

What Filament do you used for it?

If anyone is still wondering about EZABL compatibility. This model actually does fit with the EZABL OEM Mount bundled from TH3D.

Thanks I was looking for this info

So I just tried the gcode file on my Prusa MK3. Tried to print the provided gcode file twice using octoprint. Both times, the instructions drove the print head into the print bed as hard as it could. Only a reset would stop it. Thanks for ruining that spot on my PEI sheet!!!

Its explained clearly in the summary that the gcode is for a cr10 i would never use gcode with looking at a gcode preview first.

Your definition of "explained clearly" and mine are vastly different apparently. It does state that you printed with a CR10, but it says nothing about being used only with a CR10.

Okay, after further reflection I realize that I was the idiot... But, it may be helpful to make a more prominent warning. I just did not consider that gcode was generated for the specific printer and I should have.

That aside, I printed this once with S3D and full support on my prusa. Full support was not such a good idea as it deposited supports inside the fangs. So, next I printed with supports only touching the print bed. This worked great. Clearing the supports out of the top of the fang where the part cooling fan mounts was a bit challenging but not too difficult.

Installed now on the CR-10s with a 40x40x20 noctua fan for the heatsink. Working great. Thanks for your efforts!!!

How much should I screw in those two main screws? I am afraid I would break the thin piece

Nice, I did however have to use longer screws for the Cr-10s 2018 to attach the hot end to the X axis.

Printed fine with my own settings on creality - needs slightly longer screws to fit on the hotend.

hola perdon por mi ignorancia soy novato no hay video de como desarmar y armar todo con esta pieza jejej, saludos

So my print got knocked over about halfway through it. Looks good so far and will try again tonight. But in using supports "Everywhere" (through CURA), it looks like it's putting supports inside the area where the top fan will connect. I'm at work right now so I do not have the piece with me or I'd take a picture of it.
Is this normal or should I only use supports "touching the buildplate" in CURA? I don't mind the longer print time using supports "Everywhere" but if they are being printed inside, that can't be good for ventilation.
Or should I give Tacblades s3d profile a go? I'm aiming in that direction but would like some input.
And thanks for the upgraded version, Tacblades! Very much appreciated!!

Touching build plate only supports, and I have found a brim helps with this, also z hop to 1 mm and z hop to miss supports also

Well my gcode uses custom supports i only put then where needed.
Touching build plate might work. Everywhere will not work

Your gcode it is then!! Thanks for the very fast reply!!
Also, I watched your "Easy live leveling" video on youtube. Thanks!! I need to print out this Fang mod so I can see my nozzle to do a better job at leveling. You make leveling your bed look so easy! LOL Hopefully I'll be able to do it as easily as you can! :)

I just printed this in pla using the gcode file you provided! IT IS PERFECT! Where would I view your settings? Cause I want, no I NEED them! Best print I have done so far in my short 3d printing life. I would love that recipe! I see a dropbox link further down in the comments, but I dont know how to access a .bin file.

Many many thanks
This is where you can find all my latest s3d profiles.

What is the difference between op1 and op2?

Layer height 0.1 or 0.2

Can you make a version that supports EZABL?

This will actually fit with the EZABL OEM mount included from TH3D. Just mount that first, then the fang :)

Just curious am I the only person who has had a problem with the 2 screws for the extruder? I have not been able to attach the fang at all.

Thanks so much for this! I just printed it out.

When testing it, I blew from the top hole and it definitely favors one side. Is this normal/ok?

Also, the clean nozzle gcode- is that something I can add to every print in Cura? If so how/where is the code! Thanks so much!

Under "Preferences - Printers - Machine Settings" you can customize start and end g-code.

Comments deleted.

Hi Landies i m not the onöy one with the problem :
now i have a good print without eleephant foot
but allways problem

i agree with Landies,


1st the part between bed and hol is to thin, perhaps could you add 0.5mm ?
2nd the hole doesnt are in front off the hole of the fan

Thanks in advance TacBlades... i can test some modification iff you decide to do that

PS .SuperDog test with and with ou gcode allways the saöe problem, perhaps there are differents fan or diffrents screw?

you will find a picture with my request advise....

perhaps could you creat a stl file withou hole for fan and we could drill it just in front of the fan hole.....

i m ready for test if you want

The stock screws are so short on mine I had to even remove the lock washer. If that bracket is any thicker there's no way I'll be able to reattach the extruder. Does anyone know what size those are? They need to be just one or two mm longer. Hopefully Home Depot has some in stock.

Nonplansnto update this model as it works well for me and I have many projects on but people are free to remix it if they wish.

Hi tacblades, could you send me a file that i could redraw i m using freecad....


I cant was done in tinkercad

ok i will try thinkercad could you send me the file ?

I am not sure you can it's held in the cloud the native format is not exportable.

so how are u able to remix ..... ?!!!!

Take the stl into tinkercad a use the Boolean operations

ok i will try thx....

If you're a noob like me, print the g-code!

I just got my CR-10 a week ago and this is the second thing I tried printing after doing the bed adjustment wheels. The wheels turned out fine except for a bit of spider webbing. The fang, on the other hand gave me all kinds of fits (really bad spider webs, bed non-adhesion, etc). Then I printed the g-code and it turned out great the first time. I think it took a little longer than the 4:05 estimated time, but not bad. The supports separated very easily and it looks great. My hot end mounting bracket broke too, but there was enough left for the screws to grab onto until I could print another one.

Good job this is not an easy print you need to be really good at bed leveling and stringing tests for each filament and slicer settings.

Wow. That's high praise coming from the man, himself! Thank you! Your ICE profiles are really helping figure out my slicer settings. Last night I learned about using extruder retraction. Hopefully that will cure my spider-webbing problems.

While this is the first printer I've owned myself, I've been practicing with a DaVinci Jr. and Geeetech Prusa i3 through my company's 3D printing club. The Geeetech definitely made me get good at leveling. After that, leveling a CR-10 is a snap, especially once you print those wheels. Next order of business is to figure out a good auto-leveling system so I don't have to do it "by slide rule" anymore. Ha ha.

By the way, that little nozzle cleaning script at the beginning is MONEY! That's much better than laying down a brim. When I get to where I can write my own code, I'm going to use that at the beginning of all my prints.


I printed this out using the included G code file for the CR10. I removed the included support pretty easily. However I managed to break the small part which mount this to the hot end heat sink when mounting it... The part where the bolts go though... (I was being very careful and I still broke it easily).

Could you make this bit a little thicker and stronger, say 0.5mm, and/or maybe a larger radius between the flat part of the mount and the fang connection.

I've uploaded a video of the airflow using a smoke generator and it looks good.


could you tell me

where to fine

Cura 3.2.1

First 5 layers 210/65 25mm/s <== how to defini the 5 lqyer ??
20% infill <= ok
.2 layers <= ok
.6 side and .8 top I’m pretty sure <= where is this param ?
Hatchbox PLA <= i have ICE Pla not fine in cura.... anything to change ?

In Cura under Extensions menu (on top menu bar) click on post processing > modify G code...

there are some script options on there which might be what you are looking for...

I was able to use this to adjust the printing temperature on different layers to create a temperature test block... I am sure there are other options on there for print speed, etc.

Be aware that this seems to keep these settings for all other cura projects....

(I'm a newbie, so little experience, but it worked for me).

15mm brim. Print in progress! Thanks in advance!
Cura 3.2.1
210/60 50mm/s
First 5 layers 210/65 25mm/s
20% infill
.2 layers
.6 side and .8 top I’m pretty sure
Hatchbox PLA

Hello thanks for this job.

But i have a probleme on cr10.

With gcode i have elephant foots problem so the hole for the fan at the base is to tight and not enought material so when screw it broke. The sape with stl 200 60 ... try with low speed the same test running with loww speed and only 190 50... ice filament. Any advise?

So it failed no enought material.. model probleme?

I think I got ride of elephants foot by 0% fan print cooling for first layer and bed at 65C. Havnt finished this print but that’s what helped for other prints. Also elephants foot can be sanded or cut away, don’t over tighten screws.

Huntk could you send me your file or explain how to adjust all the parameter in cura... thanhx i am a newbie

Could you send me your file or explain to me how to adjust all thos params in cura.. thanks i m a newbie

I’m not at my computer now, but when I get a chance tomorrow I will.

Elephant foot reduce dramaticaly the height off this little part so no enought material.. and nor hole at all sometimes

nicht wirklich nutzbar. die streben wo der bauteilkühler am hotend/coldend und schlitten angeschraubt wird, sind einfach viel viel zu dünn. durch die wärme und bewegung hält das teil nicht lange.... ich hab es nun zum 5ten mal probiert... leider schrott

I have used it for over one year no problems here.

printed 2x now on Prusa Mk3, each time large piece of supports are sticked in the fangs and the mounting grid for the hot end are so small they will always rips out when the supports material removed.

Mine stayed put without problem when removing the supports (used included G code with support to print), however when Mounting it to the hot end radiator, they broke... currently I'm just leaving it on the radiator without the mounting screws and it is holding...

Many people have printed this on the cr10 with the gcode I provided so it must be your setting perhaps the gap between the support and the model ?
I did use manual supports so only placed them where I really needed them.

Thanks for this, good ideas, I will look at the gcodes and recreates the support positions you make! my CR-10 is not running properly so I use the other to make repairs parts, else I would print your gcodes on it direct

Printed from GCode, came out amazing. Could you post the settings used for that .gcode?

Printed from STL. Sliced with Cura using tree support. Easy clean up and install. Works great on CR-10 stock everything.

Comments deleted.

Printed directly the gcode file, with one word: amazing model!

What size is the part fan?

40x10 standard form the CR10S fits fine.....

Just finished printing this in ABS. Few things I noticed. On the left lower side there is no support holding the fang to the frame. On that same side there is a small nub which is just cosmetic but the 4th support should be added. Thanks for the remix.

These are for a reason for the cables for the fan to slot in and stay in.

Ah, OK after installing it I see your thinking. Also I put my ball mount on the wrong side (back instead of front). But it turned out to be a great tie down spot for the loose hot end cables. Might think about adding a custom zip tie spot around there in a future version.

I added a washer under the shroud/hotend mounting screws. That required a slightly longer screw, but I think it's less likely to 'squish' the mounting bar under the screw head, and ensured a little more solid mounting of the hotend to the small bosses on the carrier. We'll see! Printed with a CR-10 mini using eSun PLA+.

Is this safe to print on PLA? Wouldn't the hot end melt the plastic on the design at some point? I really like this design but I read on another similar design that they recommend to print in ABS, another user had done his in PLA & it ended up turning into a gummy bear eventually jamming his prints.

I have only ever used pla for these and it's fine I know some have used petg

I was wondering what setting you use as far as speed to print mine printed like garbage I am hoping its due to my settings.

No Support!!!!!! Might be a huge issue in itself...
.3 layer height
65 speed
100 flow
200 nozzle
45 bed

In your experience should i increase flow to print at .3 layer height?

You will need 0.16 layer height 40mm\s and bed at 60

Printed this and it turned out awsome. Installed on my cr10 s5 had to trim out for Bowden tube other than that screw holes and fan alignment perfect!... question tho my nozzle seams to run hotter than stock is this normal?

I've tried printing this out at least 6 times and the print never sticks, with and without supports. I just got done with an 85 hour print, so something tells me there's something wrong with the Gcode for this.

You could just try slicing the stl yourself perhaps ? But for supports just use touching platform only and maybe a raft

Maybe but many many people have printed it sucessfully using the gcode.

the gcode is working out really nice for me. watching it print as i type. about 30% through and it looks great.
what support types did you use? they look really neat.

I used a glue stick today and managed to print two of them, no Z hop or anything on a mirrored plate, if that helps

I've read through all the posts, but on one has stated if this fang actually produces a better/stronger print due to the cooling factor of this fang. Anyone who has made this fang want to post their findings as to whether this fang cools the filament better than the factory part cooler.

That great news, no should not run hotter, better keep an eye on that you may have knocked the thermister during installation

a noctua 40x20 doesnt fit... :(

Is anyone having trouble printing the .STL of this fan? I have seen one other person describe the exact same problem I am having (picture attached. The GCODE file works perfectly, but the STL file is failing for me with OR without supports exactly in the same place. I have tried Cura and Craftware with the same results. The layer view in Cura doesn't seem to show any issues.

Tacblades: On a side note, would more infill help with making the part fan screw portion less fragile?

Apparently some newer cr-10's have a set screw on the hot end that doesn't let the fang slide on. Had to use make a little notch with a dremel to make it fit.

That gcode is marvelous, can i have your profile from S3D please?

I haven't Used S3d In a while, using idea maker now, but this was one of my profiles

Could you share your profile for IdeaMaker?
Which printer are you using with it?

is ideamaker better ? can i have a profile for a cr-10 mini stock for that one to try it out if you do not mind ?

sorry I don't have a mini Profile but just use a standard profile and tweak the machine setting for your bed size.

Do you have a profile for a cr-10 ? then i just change the bed size

Can someone provide a tutorial on how to install this? And does this make a difference in print quality? My prints already come out looking amazing, so wonder if I should even do this. 'Don't fix it if it's not broken.'

there is a pic included on how to install it.

It if all good then don't change, it doesn't dramatically improve your prints, I did it mainly to have better access and visibility of the nozzle while it's printing.

what did you slicing software did you use on the fang_short_supports.spt. THAT PRINT TURNED OUT PERFECT. I bought s3d and I cant get the same results.

I think for this one it was s3d but I usually use ideamaker. I spend weeks refining profiles for each filament

Comments deleted.

no idea but clogged nozzle is not related to cooling, and many are using it. Maybe you moved or knocked the Bowen tube so its not seated tight up against the heat break inside your hot end?

Comments deleted.


Me too must ask.
Can you please edit it for Micro Swiss300C hotend.
This would be really lovely


I do not have one so I have no way to test tollerences

If it helps, i can send you the Dimensions.
Think i get mine next week

There are other fan ducts for the microswiss, - i got some for mine, and this fang remix is only ok for the stock fan. The versions for bigger fans arent working well.

No to test tollerences you bed the item but I have no time to work on it to be honest

Built and installed this thing and so far so good on my CR-10. Took some work to clear out the infill from the air ducts, then pre drilled the holes, aligned things and am off and running.

If you print another one, just select the option in your slicer to only add supports from the bed. This way you won’t have dig out supports from inside of it.

Finally got the right color filament to print this, and to my disappointment, it doesn't fit my Micro Swiss 300C flexible friendly hotend.

Anyone willing to remix it to work with the Micro Swiss 300C? I haven't got the skills to do remixes yet.

I found a minor nit in the starting Gcode: the 2 lines:
G28 X0 Y0 Z0
G28 Y35 Z0.15
will home the nozzle, then... home the nozzle...
I believe the numbers in the G28 are effectively ignored (according to the RepRap web page).
I see that the Google doc code replaces the second line with:
G1 Y35 Z0.2 F1000
which works a lot better on my machine.
PS: I really appreciate the "rigor" with which you publish your work - wish everybody did...

No worries, thanks, my start code has moved on a lot since then, I now have my own custom marlin 1.1.7 and using manual mesh bed leveling :)

I got one related question: since my last CURA version upgrade I'm no more able to produce successful gcode for my CR-10. To print this model I used directly the gcode you provided and I was surprise that, after my several unsuccessful attemps to print something from CURA, this print come out successfully - I suppose the problem is not my CR-10 but rather new Cura settings coming with the new version. Would you be so kind to share the settings you used to produce the gcode you have published? I also observed that at the beginning there is a kind of some smart operation performed: the head is filled, a small amount of the old melted filament is deposited at left btn corner and the filament is afterwards retract enough there is no bleeding during the move from the initial position to the center of the plate (printing area) - what's that? Thx.

Hi! Great mod :)
I have a problem though: the radial fan vibrates A LOT with this mod. Probably because it's vertically attached to the fang..?
I will try some silicone sleeves to dampen the vibrations. Did anyone else have this issue?

Just printed and installed it using your gcode file. It came out beautiful. It was the easiest to remove support I've come across. Would you mind sharing the support setting you used?


Hello guys, Would someone be able to add 18mm bed leveling sensor to this too please ?

Have you found a way to mount ABL with this model yet? It looks like this is compatible with a standard 18mm ABL mount but I'm not really sure.

Actualy I am still waiting for sensor from china, I will probably design simple L holder and I plan to mount it to holes from original CR 10 hotend steel box , there are 2 of them so it should be quite strong connection.

No i have no interest in using auto leveling systems i find them completely unnecessary and slow.

Hi, thanks for your design.
But I have some questions if I may:
1st: ABS or PLA?
2nd: The 2 long screws with a tension washer was very short for the heatsink fan. It is designed to take the washers off?
3rd: I couldn't slide all the way to match the holes on the heatsink. There's a allen black screw that I believe is the hot tube that doesn't let the fang to slide all the way. Taking the screw out and sliding and trying to screw afterwards from the inside also is a problem and you have to modify with a alfa knife a little dent on the inside of the fan holder.
4th: After solving the above the cable for the hot tube is in the way of the right fang. that why I've tried not slide but to clip frontally, that way the cable would be behind but since I've printed in PLA it snapped and broke the support.
No I'm trying for the first time to print in ABS, but the above problems remains.
Can you shed some light?
Much appreciated!
Thanks! Best Regards

So i use pla, yes remove the washers I think it says this in the instructions. The wires just slip down the side, and the hot end just slid in no problem. I know a lot of other people have used it too with no problem. I did include a step by step install image did you see that.

Thanks! I've saw, but I didn't got the "remove the washers completely".
On yours where is the Throat tube screw? on the front or on the back? Mine is on the front, so I think I'll flip and also the heater block.
I'll print again and try again. Thank you very much! Best Regards!

My throat tube is towards the back :)

I'll flip around then.

I couldn't flip around because the hotend has some screws into the heatsink that are offset it only works that way. And flipping all the head around is not possible because then you can't pass the cables where there's no support.
I just cut a V on the base of the fan support for the little allen screw and worked perfectly.
But now I'm having problems with the screws that support everything. There were very little left of the screw on the other side (I took the washers off but still). And they keep unscrewing and one of them is stripped already :S
Is there a longer screws? Do you have the links? thanks

I just use threadlock that holds it for me.

Sure, but one of my screws I can't seem to tighten because it is striped (didn't even go the touch everything, it striped long before).
Do you by any chance know the specifications of this screws (and since I'm going to buy it's better to buy a longer one :D)?

Did you hole set wigles a bit? Or it's rock solid with just these two screws?
Mino rocks in the same direction as the blower fan on top.

Whethe screws are nipped up its solid i use lock tight on the threads.


this, and similar constructions, hold by the hotend screws are prone to loosening over time!!! (Same problem with an Fan Duct for Ender 2!)
Printed it in PLA and was pretty sure it was tight at first Install.
After having strange layering Issues, i had the Luck to detect an loose Hotend!!!
Check your Printer too!!

The Design could be changed, to use the original mounting for Fan Case instead!

Thread locks works very well just one drop holds it tight, but is also removeable

Hey so I have seen a lot of people do this I was just wondering what it is for? thanks.

Two main reasons, to prevent uneven cooling from just one side and also visability and access to the nozzle while it's printing.

I printed it and was able to use the stock fan and stock screws just fine. I ended up replacing the stock fan with a Noctua 40x10mm fan to reduce the noise and get more air flow and that fan also worked with the original screws; although I had to kinda push it into position and the screws just barely had enough threads sticking out to catch. But it worked and it's very quiet now and more airflow.

Do I use the original fans and screws for this?

This is using all the original stock fans

Finished reprinting and mounting. Came out perfect! Now I just have to figure out what type of led lighting to use since the fang is in the way of my light bar lol. Thanks for the awsome print!

I wanted to print this in PETG that matches some of my other parts so I used Simplify3D with supports on. Needless to say it was a mess since it filled the fangs with support material. Initially I didn't look at the other files since I didn't want to use PLA but after the failure I took a closer look. I loaded the factory file that has supports that you added manually and then modified both processes to increase the temp to 255 for my brand of PETG. About to print again... fingers crossed or it's 6 more hours wasted. May I suggest that in the description you mention that only custom S3D supports should be used and maybe save someone else the problem. If you did and I missed it my apologies. In any case totally awesome remix! Thanks for all the hard work!

I will add a warning to help others its a good idea.

I dont really think of it as I always spend a lot of time to study the gcode preview at all layers before I print anything.

Génial !
Merci !! Ça fonctionne super bien avec tout les ventilateurs

No problem thanks :)

Tacblades, this is some next level sh*t here with you including the factory file with multi processes and custom gcode, lol! I'm printing right now with 3DFuel APLA, and it's coming out beautifully. I'm stealing your start gcode too for this printer, way better than playing 'dodge the nozzle with your bull clip'. Thanks!

Thanks you can also see my start end end code here. https://goo.gl/FMKfyX

Fantastic work - thank you so very much :)

Is it safe to be made out of PLA?

All mine are made from pla or pla+ and never had a problem.
Note i only print with pla and petg so not high temps. If its for high temp use i would print it from petg or abs i think.

Fails on me everytime - always at the same height.

Just finished printing one using the gcode that has built in supports in PLA. Came out fine, maybe you could try that. If you are not using PLA and need a higher temperature, I think the gcode would be easy to edit.

Haven't fitted it yet, printing a second one first as back-up in case I do something stupid.

And big thanks to Tacblades!

I have printed 4 now all good, are you following the instructuons with supports etc.

It's always like 80% into the print.
I guess its about the lelving knobs - they seem to vibrate alot.
My guess is, they loosen so much that, at this Point, the nozzle is so low, that it hits the print.

It's always like 80% into the print.
I guess its about the lelving knobs - they seem to vibrate alot.
My guess is, they loosen so much that, at this Point, the nozzle is so low, that it hits the print.

I put washers under my springs so there is a lot of tension the adjusters should not vibrate or move at all.

Has anyone had trouble with the bolts that go through the fang and heatsink block into the carriage loosening periodically? I noticed some play in the fang two days ago and tightened it back up. It looks like it's getting a little loose again tonight.

Yup.. I have had to take apart and tighten them twice.. thinking about threadlock but will keep an eye on them.

I use thread lock on mine.

Hi bro. Thanks for sharing. this uses the original fans right?

Yes all original fans

Thanks for the reply. I've just printed. then i look at it, OMG lots of supports to remove, any tips to remove those in the tube? it's curvy. also i broke the middle section for mounting hot end :-(

I use s3d or ideamaker so i remove all the internal supports in the slicer manually before printing.
Read all the notes carefully as it explains how to carfully clean after printing and the weak areas to consider.

Oh. I've just downloaded and the gcode is already there!. Thanks for putting all together! really rocks!

Hi. I also have S3D, but my desktop just 'died'. So I cannot slice it. (I would not use Cura).
Would you mind to share the Gcode for this model without all these unnecessary supports you have already removed?
Much appreciated.

Do you think you could make a version of this to fit a bigger 5015 radial fan? I really love this improved clearance version!

There has been a remix that does this now i think.

Hehe, yes there has. I realised if I wanted it done I would have to learn how to do it myself! XD Just finished printing it now, will fit later today if I get time.

Sorry i dont have the time too many projects on at the moment.

Worked like a charm had to do a little dremeling on the fan holes to lock into the fang but that was easy thanks again

Hi great design however do I take it that you cant print this in PLA as the hot-end would soften the plastic? Thanks

You can print with pla as its attached to the heat sink abover the heat block and has the cooling fan on it so it stays cool.
Some people put foil tap on it at the bottom where it is close to the heat block. I use ice filament pla which is very tough so i dont need any foil.

It's EZABL compatible?

This will actually fit with the EZABL OEM mount included from TH3D. Just mount that first, then the fang :)

No i dont use autolevel

Nice one! But there's a problem with some CR-10S (at least, with mine): the the heat dissipator from hotend came assembled in opposite direction than all the hotends I've seen before, such that the bolt at the bottom, devised to hold the heater tube in place, is facing the back of the hotend instead of the front. The bolt protudes slightly but enough to meet the bottom back edge of the holder when you slip the hotend into the piece. I solved it by brute force (instead of remixing, I am not that proficient yet), cutting a slit on that edge to let the bolt slide upwards.

But it took me a while to figure out why I wasn't able to slide the heatend inside the piece. Just FYI.

I am going to check mine, i have a cr10s also, and didnt have a problem. I am wondering if this is some kind of manufacture issue.

Actually I made a mistake describing the issue, I was talking of back and front from the POV you have when assembling the headset into this piece, hence the bolt bumps against the front of the fan holder's floor. Also a translation mistake: by "disipator" I meant the heatsink. Sorry for the confusion.

I think it is a matter of manufacturing, there's no impediment to put the heatsink facing either side, actually the way the heatend was disposed in mine would allow (with the stock cover) to remove the heater tube and disassemble the heatend completely without detaching the heatsink from the printer. It seems easier to maintain this way, I don't know why it's usually facing the back.


I have the same problem. I can't screw the heatsink to the Z axis because the screw is too close to the cable (hot end) and the hot end block, can't go to the right place because the Z-Axis plate blocks the hot end block. Tried to change the screw position nut to the back, and it can't go to Z 0. So, there is no way for me to use this. :(

I'm using CR 10 5s.

This fang is only for thr cr-10 or the cr-10s
The cr-10 5s is a different design in many ways and i have no testing on this model.

The STL file looks like there is a support missing between the fang and fan holder.

Its designed like that, allows you to slide the head cooling fan wires down the side without having to extend them.

Aaaah, I see. Thanks for the quick reply! :) Going to be printing this shortly.

Could a support for ezabl be added to this?

This will actually fit with the EZABL OEM mount included from TH3D. Just mount that first, then the fang :)

Yes but not by me as i do not like auto level solutions

Looks good. Will this work if I have a stock CR-10S or do I need to upgrade any parts?

It works with all stock parts i also have a cr-10s

Thank you my friend. Are you on the user group on FB? We're all giving your thing a try :-)

Yes i am on some fb groups.