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aeropic

ANET A8 Spiral vase linear bushing

by aeropic Sep 16, 2017
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Awesome little bushing--thanks! I remixed a 12mm version (LM12UU) fingers crossed it works as well :)

Hi, I'll print using the repetier zero infill

my printed bearing works "PERFECTLY" (near zero friction near zero play) but once I put it in my clampy thing it stucks to the rod like hell! It alraedy is really easy to take out the clampy thing and back in. so I'm worried it'll come out during my print. I should increase the marigin right?

Yes, you must trim them when installed in the housing. If too tight on the rod, increase the diameter...

I've been using these on Y-axis for about a year and they're still working great, smooth and silent, and cheap.
Your design is easy to print, simple yet effective.
Thank you for your great design!!!

thanks for the feedback !

Hello @aeropic! I will tip you because these bearings are fantastic!
I wonder if I can use it as Z bearing because I broke mine.
If yes, how can I customize? Should I block it with something?
Thank you!

Hi, thanks for this feedback, i appreciate !
I am not sure it would be a great idea to install those bushings in Z axis... In Z housings, the White plastic part, the bearings need to be pressed in position to avoid they move. Moreover, the Z axis does not move a lot, and i am afraid you might get stick and slip motion.
But I have never tried !

I've tried on my Z, didn't work.
It may work if I re-design the housing...

So far I'm extremely happy with this! I decided to go full overhaul of the bearing system because my IGUS bearings were not as tight as I wanted. A lot of play in the extruder carriage and a very sloppy bed difficult to level every now and then.

Now the play is gone on both axis and since I now know my measures I can produce new ones in case I need them.

After a month of use I have to say they are as quiet as the IGUS -so way less than the stock ones- with the additional benefit of beeing perfect calibrated for my machine.

Thanks for this nice feedback. You should now get rid of the aluminum housings and print plastic ones. You will save lots of mass on the mobile parts !

I cant get them to work. It's too tight. pls help

Just try to enlarge the hole by 0.5mm...

This is so smart! Love it!

hello is perfect for the Anet A8

Muito bom, agora minhas hastes não serão mais arranhadas, está deslizando muito bem obrigado!

Margin parameter seem to behave a bit strange for me.. Using 0.98 = fine... Using 1.10 is very odd, 1.102 seems ok again ...

Humm you are speaking of a difference of 2/100 mm that an Anet cannot manage...
Are you inserting the bushing into it's housing before testing it ?

I've been using these on my bed for a few days now because the tiny ball bearings started to fall out! Cheap Chinese junk. So far, no problems, runs much quieter too. I had to sand the inside perimeter a slight amount for a better fit though. Your mileage may vary.

I'm trying something a little different. The individual bushings when in a bearing block would slide freely, but when all bearing blocks were attached to the carrier (in this case the x carrier) they would bind. Maybe the screw holes are not square from the factory. So I customized the bushings so they were short enough to fit 3 bushings per bearing block, with a little end-play near the snap rings. I figured that would give them some wiggle room. Now there is very little if any binding and they still fit nicely on the guide rods with very little play. I"m going to try that arrangement for awhile and see if it works out. Thanks.

This seems a good idea... Maybe the bottom bushing of the X carriage should be left with its nominal length, and just do your idea on the top bushings ?
Keep us informed please !

I have been trying to figure out printing some of these for a project I have, the rods are 11mm. Can I just change the innerD=11.0 and outerD=20.0?

yes, it should work... You should also enlarge the lenght...

For me, using ABS, it work with stock settings but filament_margin at 1.08
Have tried also at 1.0 but it grips a lot.

I couldn't get them to work on my printer. They caused my print bed to vibrate and bounce a lot well moving which causes for lots of shaky lines

I printed some (several) trays before ask you. Then only three more. As pictures show.

My settings at CURA are as MOD74 says.

OD=15mm
ID=7.9mm
filament_margin=0.95
H=23.5

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2968865

I hope they work.
Thanks.

Hi,
How does "filament_margin" parameter work?
low value increase or decrease inner hole?
What value increment is good for play? 50,55,60,65,... or 50,60,70,..

Best regards.

Hi,
If you increase the filament margin, this will increase the size of the hole. (r = (innerD+ filament_margin)/2)
Basically the way to go is to print the "standard size" one correspondinf to default values, then if too tight , just print one bigger by 0.1 mm and then find the optimal one by dichotomy ... You should converge within 3 to 4 iterations.

Don't forget to test it installed inside the housing...
I find it simpler to print first the associated housing and use it to perform the tries dismanteling the Y bed ...

Hi
i want to print it with Cura but it makes 2 circles and then fails to print because it prints midair.
could you share good cura settings for this part?
thanks
brian

It works fine in cura, I have printed several just fine. What are your settings? Have you enabled the "Spiralize The Outer Control"? You will also need to set your Top/Bottom Tickeness at 0.0

Sorry, I don't use CURA and cannot help you here... Maybe some other people ?

Which filament is best for smooth sliding? ABS, PETG or PLA? I have the and I want to print it. PETG is very flexible and hard to paint, does it makes less abrasive?

I think the smoothest one is PLA. But if you need it to survive in hot temperatures then go for nylon.
Never tried PETG for this...

How can I print this thing? It is not hollow!? Do I have to drill the 8mm hole manually after printing?

You have to parametrize your slicer to use the spiral vase mode (for Slicr3r) or "spiralize outer contour" (for Cura).
Then the slicer will just fommow the external perimeter of the object and thus generate the required hole ! (rread the instructions for more detail)

thanks for the reply! I'm using simplify3D and checked the single outline corkscrew mode but forgot to set the top and bottom solid layers to 0. Now it works! :)

not work for me incalculable loss of time :(

That's not normal... What happens ?

Hi can i also use ABS for the bearings?

never tried, but people reported it wears faster than PLA ...

I'm getting a lot of vibrations since installing these bushings. Straight lines become broken lines. What could have gone wrong?

this means you've too much friction and get a stick and slip effect.
Two root causes for this:

  • too tight bushings. Have you tested one inside the housing to check if in this configuration it slides well? If not you have to enlarge the InnerD (inner diameter) with the customizer of thingiverse
  • or you misaligned the housings. Try to untighten the screws of the Hplate and move the plate while tightening the screws.

is it just me or does it seem like inner diameter setting doesn't actually change inner diameter? Wanted to misuse this model and make an spool adapter for the stock anet a8 spool holder, but hole seems tad too big ;)

It is maybe because you went too far in terms of inner diameter value ?

For those, using Simplify3D as a slicer:
-In the layer tab of the process, select "Single outline corkscrew printing mode (vase mode)
-Print one piece and check the fitting in the Housing and then check how smooth the rod moves in the bushing (while it is in the housing)
Now you have 2 options:
-doble click the object and change the scaling for X and Y for the same ammount. If you go higher, the outside will get larger and also the inside. If you go lower, the outside and the inside will get smaller.
-the other (and I think better option in most cases) is to go to the process settings, extruder tab, and modify the "extrusion width". If you go lower, the inside will get bigger and the outside will get smaller. If you go higher, the outside will get bigger and the inside will get smaller.

Once you found a setting, that works well, runs smooth while the bushing is in the housing, print the rest of bushing.

Another tip: If you double click it, uncheck "uniform scaling" and raise only the value for the Z axis, you can make a bushing that is longer, for the Z Axis.

If anyone is using AstroPrint / AstroBox I got fantastic results using the following settings:

(use "Best" setting as a base and then modify the below)

PERIMETERS
Shell Thickness 0.4

Spiral Vase - Tick
Only Follow Mesh Surface - Tick

TOP & BOTTOM LAYERS
Cut off Object Bottom - 0mm
Solid Top - Untick
Solid Bottom - Untick

INFILL
Fill Density - 0
Bottom/Top Thickness - 0

I think that was all I changed, if you don't have success I'll check again. This assumes a 0.4mm nozzle still. Hope this helps someone.

While i'm sure that these things will work without lubrication i would still suggest that everyone who decides to use these uses atleast some kind of lubrication with them, what i would suggest and what i will be using is white lithium grease.

For sure soem grease would not hurt as long as it does not dissolve the PLA !

Good point! the lubricant damaging the part is a common concern when trying to find the correct lubricant for plastics but from what i've been able to research white lithium grease, or pretty much any mineral oil based lubricant should be fine for PLA.

When I try to customize this thing I receive the following error.

"/usr/local/bin/openscad/openscad: error while loading shared libraries: libCGAL.so.10: cannot open shared object file: No such file or directory"

Can someone tell me what I am doing wrong?

hey denwer4u I downloaded the openscad program and use the program to change the initial setting of O.D. and I.D. to get my bearings to size. I printed about twenty of them before I got it right. Just remeber to hit f6 to rebulid the file before you export to STL. After export to STL i used cura to opoen the STL slice the file to gcode format. This method worked for me. Please let me know if you need further assistance.

thanks for this help !

It seems the customizer is failing very often...
I would suggest downlinking Openscad and doing the job directly from Openscad which is free ...

This is great comment ;-)
Thanks

Trying to figure out how to do this one with Cura 14.07. Printed five spectacular fails so far. I hope I am homing in the correct way to do it.

Is it correct to assume that with correct settings, the printer will move in ONE continuous motion, extruding all the time, without ever moving to another place without extruding?

I would love to get my hand on some of these sliders...

Not necessary to change your slicer.

On CURA 14.07 there is an "expert config" mode (Ctrl+E)

  • There is a section "Black Magic" where you can find the checkbox "Spiralize the outer contour"

I joined my first test config... firt layer did not glue very well, but result is on the good way !

Yes it is correct. The slicer shall slice it so that there will be no move no z hop no rétraction other than a continuous print from bottom to top...
Try with slic3r...

you're welcome !!! (but what for ?)

Comments deleted.

finally printed ok, it seems like the inner side had additional circle layer of "something" even do support and brim was of course unchecked! it seems nice and very elastik however i got micro holes in the lines maybe i need to put higher feed rate

You need to remove horizontal and vertical shells from the settings, if you are using slic3r, use his settings on the pictures. If you are using simplify3D, use those settings.

please post a picture to show the "something" you get ...

the example stl file inner diameter is like 3mm instaed of 8mm+ wtf why when title say its anet a8?!

For sure no ! The provided stl file once sliced in spiral vase gives a ready ti use bushing for 8mm rods when printed on a properly calibrated printer...
You have to follow the instructions ...

What is the length that these are required to be? I want to do a check of my prints to make sure they'll fit before I pull the printer apart.

The length is 23,8mm .... Everything is fully cistomizable.
If you don't want to take your printer apart before everything is calibrated I would advice toprint the housing first: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2640562

Then print one bushing test it fits inside the housing alone (outer diameter of the bushing). Then test the set housing+ bushing on one Y rod or one Z rod (they are easy to access without dismantling the whole carriage ! Adapt the Inner diameter so that it slides well.

Then print all the bushings you need and print the other housings and just replace everything with the plastic ones !

LM8UU housing
by aeropic

Nice one, thanks for the info! I'll print one of those housings later today. Think mine are measuring spot on 24mm which is the LM8UU specified size from what I've found on various sites. Will see how it goes and post an I Made One later

You don't have to worry too much with the length. I kept a margin of 0.2mm witht he default length (23.8mm) so that is will fit without problem in any standard housing. The only critical dimension is the diameter. And the inner diameter shall be trimmed only after having trimmed the outer diameter (the bushing is somewhat springy it must be kept in place inside the housing before playing with the rod ...)

Nice design. I'm wondering, how are they holding up? It's been a while now since you had yours!

I share the settings of Simplify3D at which the excellent inserts were made. I also attach the result photo.
With these settings, printing one insert lasts 34min.

it's no possible having 1 files near to print ??

the nearest to print file is the one provided in the files section (the .stl one). It was the one I printed for me ! But again, according to you slicer settings you might end with a too tight or too loose print ...

With firefox browser the customizer gave me several times a forbidden error.

With chromium browser the customizer worked..

Just thought it might be of use for someone :-)

And now i am getting this error with chromium to:

<RuntimeError: Failed to get https://www.thingiverse.com/download:4134006 403: Forbidden>

Is there a way i can solve this ?

The customizer sucks ... It is down one week over two!
I can only advice to wait one or two days and try again or (better option) to download Openscad and modify directly from the script (It is a free software)

I printed these out, and am getting the spiralized print fine using slic3r. 8.2 for the innerD seemed to allow the bearing to move freely. I replaced my Y axis bearings, but now I see a lot of judder in my prints. Any ideas? I'm using the LM8UU housing by aeropic as well.

What do you mean by "judder" (sorry I don't know this word). Could you please post a picture of the effect on a print ?
Does your Y axis move freely when the 4 bearings are installed (without the belt) ?

I don't know if that is the right term. Here is a picture. I think one bearing turned out slightly tighter than the others, but still pretty loose. I guess I could try 8.3mm to see if that helps. Or, I could just use the PLA housings with the LM8UU bearings. I think my main problem which led me to try the PLA bearings was that the metal housings for the LM8UU had bolt holes not well-aligned.

In the picture, it's supposed to be a circle with diaganals. I stopped the print when I saw what was happening.

I get the same thing in my prints now. The bearing slide really well so im not sure why I am having issues. Unfortunately two of my original bearings fell apart upon removal. I will try to print it with slightly larger inner diameter.

For sure this looks like a bad print !
You can obviously place the original bearings inside the printed housings, they will fit.

To fix the printed bearings you have to test them in order to check if they slide smoothly, they shall be 'silky'... If not, enlarge innerD.

i cannot print this on my pla ;/ inner diameter are to small and walls are glued

Maybe you print at a too high temperature. Try to print at 190°

I print 180 :( and inner diameter are smaller than 8mm and inner spikes are glued

Then you get maybe some overextrusion you should calibrate your extruder or trim it with the slicer ...

I print on repetier host maybe i try im slic3r

changed to slic3r prusa edition and works like a charm :D can you paste image with settings first layer ?

cool!
I'm not close to my printer ... But nothing special for the first layer something like

  • 0,3 mm height ( 0.2 for the other layers)

hmmm my print are better when i have 0,18 ant 0,2 for others layers

ok i have bearings and housing but it's to small inner diameter for smoothly running

Then play with the customizer to enlarge innerD...

but why when i use 8mm rod

It's a matter of accuracy of the printer :

  • PLA formulation,
  • extrusion temperature
  • slicer settings
    ==> all this may have an impact on the exact diameter which is printed even if you programmed 8mm...
    Then a try and fail approch to enlarge 1/10th mm after 1/10th of mm is required to get the most accurate bushing !

the picture of oleg is to bad. i cant see a thing for the settings in cura. Could you help me?

Sorry, I do not know Cura... I think there is a spiralize mode somewhere ... You just have to acitvate this (no infill, one perimeter, no bottom no top and spiralize....)

What settings do I have to change when slicing it with Simplify3D?

Sorry, I do not know S3D and I don't know neither if a spiralize mode exists with this slicer ...

Can't open in the Customizer. Anyone else running into this?
And thank you for the design. Hope to get these printed out & running today.

It seems the custoùizer is down... I tried with this thing and another one: both fails to open...

I removed the upper right x-axis bearing housing while playing around with sizes to avoid rebuilding the x-cart multiple times. The only thing I had to change was the multiplier (.94 for me with Inland PLA but YMMV). Mine may still be a little tighter than they should be, but they're not sticking. I had only used Cura up until this print but had no issues getting Slic3r to do its thing.

My A8 is SO SO SO much quieter now. These plus vibration dampeners and upgraded fans made a tremendous difference. Stepper drivers will be the next mod in pursuit of silence.

Thanks for this nice feedback.
Indeed the next step for a silent A8 has to focus on the stepper motors and the associated electronics.

Sorry, I'm not an expert, I wonder why if I open the .stl file with CURA or with BLENDER you see full without the central hole, how do I create the gcode file for printing so you print this?

Hi,

This is normal. The STL indeed is a solid block with no hole inside... The slicer will do the job as it will slice only the perimeter of the object.
But the idea is that the perimeter is printer continuously which gives a much smoother and accurate print.
I do not know CURA but I'm sure it includes a "spiralize" option: see here : https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/pull/2621

Is this why it's showing up as a solid object when I bring it into OpenSCAD? I was about to ask if this might've been an error of some sort relating to the version I'm using (2018.01.06 (git 3473eb1)), but if it's supposed to look like this until you print it, then never mind.

Edit: exported the STL and brought it into Slic3r...preview looks like it should. Just need the printer to finish its current job now. :)

Yes the job to just slice the perimeter is done by the slicer !

If they slide so freely why do they get stuck at the top in the video?

Lol

OMG my X-axis has never been this smooth since I bought my machine. I replaced the bearings a few months a go and still was not very smooth. These have done the trick! Now printing them out for my Y-Axis....

Thanks for this very positive feedback !
Please posr a 'i made one' picture, i like seeing those bearings printed in several colors

Hi
My shaft is 18mm. I tryed innerD=18mm, outerD=26mm and N=20. Is it OK

Yes, it looks beautifull. This is a really big shaft... Which weight will it be loaded with ?

And with N=10.
I don't know. I think about 3D printer like D-bot but with shafts 18 and 12 mm. H=80mm

I think you should lengthen the bushings otherwise you might get "stick and slip" (prop up effect... in french "arc bouter")
As a rule of thumb, try to keep the proportion of the small bushings ratio length/diameter : 25/8 = ~3

With a diameter of 18 mm your length should be around 28*3 = ~80 mm

Look at the detail with OD=26 and N=10. Do you think you have a bug with the length calculation of line segments of the inner diameter.
It looks better when we increase N=20, but it should look good and at N=10.
Going to try to understand the program, but I see this language first time. ^(

Did you printed it with spiral vase mode ? I see in your print lots of stringing which makes me think you do not spiral...
The problem is not in the code but rather in the slicer configuration or at the printer level.

No. It's problem of N if we use " cube([7,1.1,H+2]..." as a spike.
What do you think about
N= innerD x 3.14 / filament_margin*3
D=innerD
filament_margin=0.92
For D=8mm - N=9
for D=18mm - N=20
for D=15 - N=17
Next step change N for 360/N mast be int.
N= 5, 6, 8, 9, 10, 12, 15, 18, 20, 24, 30 and so on ^)

Those are the two lines which divide the circle into N spikes :
for ( i = [0 : 360/N : 360] ) {
rotate ([0,0,i]) spike();
....
}

I do not see any bug here...
Here the view of the stl genrated with outerD = 28 and innerD = 18 :

Yes, the program works correctly but the bearing turns very bad if the number N is small for innerD.
N=10 for innerD=18 too small.
It is necessary to make a intricate spike (look at my picture) or to increase the number of N. How to automatically choose number N - I wrote earlier.
N= innerD x 3.14 / filament_margin*3
PS sorry my english

You want to enlarge the surface of the spike which is in contact with the rod ?

module spike() {
difference() {
rotate ([0,0,0]) translate ([outerD/2-2,0,0]) rotate ([0,0,spike_angle]) cube([7,3.1,H+2], center = true); // <<<<<<<<<<<< change 3.1 here with the required spike thickness
cylinder (r = (innerD+ filament_margin)/2, h = H+2, center = true);
}
} // end spike

I have read about openscad and understand how your program works.
"You want to enlarge the surface of the spike which is in contact with the rod ?"
Yes, and I think that's right. Bulkheads of the bearing is very thin and the more of them the better.
It seems to me that N=20 and 1.1 is better than 3.1 and N=10.
The gaps between the spikes should be minimal.
Thanks for the program.

Can I print this model in Cura 15.04? Nothing happens.

you can turn on the "spiralize outer contour" option under "special modes" and it will work

I do not know cura... It should work if there is a spiral mode (one perimeter, no bottom no top, "spiralize")

Slic3r 1.3.0 is OK

for the record, 8.2mm inner diameter and the rest set to default is gold for me. The bushing doesn't bind too much but also doesn't fly around loosely like 8.5mm did. For testing purposes, if i have the busing on the z axis, the bushing will hold itself and won't drop down, 8.5 came flying down but it also won't stick too much, needs very little force to move. There is barely any wobble. Note that this setting my not work for you, my printer is tunned fairly well and runs marlin, your's might be stock and untuned so 8.2 might be too tight.

actually scrap that, the 8.2mm fits snuggly outside of a bearing housing, I just took the whole bed apart to find out that 8.2mm is too tight on the rods when inserted into a housing, I also tried 8.5mm but those are too loose, looks like ima be printing a couple 8.3, 8.4, 8.45 and then again disassembling my bed. going ot be a long night...

Yes, the good procedure is first to fit the external diameter to the housing dimension, then to adjust the internal diam to the rod...

It sounds like a new 'i made one' is coming

where du you regulate the internal diameter ???

The printed inner diameter is a combination of two parameters:
innerD
and
filament_margin

if you increase one of the two parameters the hole will be bigger

// inner diameter in mm
innerD=8.0;
The inner diameter can be set here. For a standard LM8UU, just leave this value to 8 mm

// this is used to trim the inner diameter (mm)
filament_margin = 0.92;
The spiral vase prints one perimeter just inside the perimeter of the rod... This "filament margin" is here to offset the inner diameter. On my printer with a noozle of 0.4 mm and a layer of 0.2, the filament width is around 0.45mm which means 0.90 on the diameter.
Basically start with 0.90 and play with this value to get the bushing nearly fully free on the rod (see the video to feel how accurate you have to be...)

Thanks but ejere due you find innerd in slic3r ??

Slic3r is a slicer, it is not intended to modify parameters of objects...

If you want to play with the parameters of this thing you get two ways to do this :

  • when in thingiverse, click on the button open with customizer then trim this model under the customizer
  • or download openscad (freewareà open the .scad file with openscad.and modify the associated line , then render the object (F6) and export the .stl

thanks that was just what I needed. The bearings on the extruder on my anet a8 is that the same as this ones

If you mean the bearing on the XAxis, yes they are the same.

If anyone wants to use them on the x carriage of the ANET A8 inner diameter is 9.2 mm freely sliding and 9.1 mm with resistance

What were your other settings for the X-Carriage bushings?
Did you leave the rest as it is?
I could measure it myself but if someone already has figured out the right dimensions, why not ask..

Leave everything else stock :)

Alright, thank you very much!

@Papiertuete : I printed mine for X axis with the same size than for the Y. All my rods have the same diameter.
As the aluminium housings of the ANET are all the same, when you have found a correct triming for one bushing, you can print 7 in a row !

So the STL that you provided is perfect as-is for the regular, standard Anet A8 X-carriage?
It would be great not to have to experiment around as I only have this one printer, so popping them in and out to test and then print new ones would be a lot of work and I would probably just print a lot of them in different sizes and then do the disassembly / assembly process just once.
Thank you for the quick reply also

My best advice is to print a support, then to play with the bushings. They can easily be tested using one Z axis (no need to disassemble anything...).
Once one is OK, you print 7 of this then you disassemble the printer to install them !

What do you mean with printing a support?

Ah good idea!
That's sized just like the stock ones?
Not sure whether I'm going to switch to these printed ones as they might not fit to my extruder assembly but perfect for testing if the hole for the bearing is exactly the same size

They are at the exact dimensions of the stock ones. You could even replace only one

Yeah, the LM8UU housing is perfect!

I have to thank you, mate

oh wow perfect!
Btw: 9.2mm is definitely way too much, I just printed it, now trying 8 mm

good to know, thanks !

No problem :)

Hey @aeropic - Have you tried using these in a lighter housing like https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2027339 ? Was curious if this was rigid enough keep their structure whilst saving more weight on Y? :)

SC8UU housing for LM8UU bearing

I just released this one. Perfect fit with ANET and the spiral vase bushings ;-)

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2640562

LM8UU housing
by aeropic

Hi,

A lighter housing can indeed be used and a printed one will do the job assuming the inner surface of the cylinder is continuous. The one you propose includes a slot on the whole lenght of the housing and this will induce lateral pressure to the bushing that will not keep a regular shape...

Nice - Thanks for the quick reply!

has someone printed it with a filament other than PLA? have still PETG and ABS here .. one would be perhaps more suitable than the PLA?

I do not know any print of this in another filament that PLA ...
From what I've read, ABS is not suitable.
I do not not the behaviour of PETG ...

But frankly speaking, why are you afraid of PLA. My bushings have been running for more than one month and are still as new as the first day !

What did you read that said why ABS is not suitable (curious why not)?

I was going to try in ABS because I just recently added an enclosure and not sure PLA will be ok with heat from friction + warmth of enclosure (no idea what temp it gets up to yet).

I have done an enclosure either, and even after a lot of time heating bed, the temperature inside doesn´t exceed 40 degrees. Even the DC Motors don´t get far from 45 degrees. (measured with infrared Thermometer). But If you are going for a heating chamber, than PLA is not an option.

I found some statements like this : "ABS is not a suitable material for bushings. It's too soft so it has lots of friction and wears quickly." but I must admit I have not tested !
If you place it into a hot enclosure, maybe nylon would be a great choice ...

That´s strange, the world statement for ABS is that is a hard material. But it could have more GRIP than others materials.

thank you for this i just installed . these have to be the best printable mod for the a8...ive been trying other peoples mods not bearings but nozzles and such most r junk !!!!

Thanks for this nice feedback. Could you please post a picture (I made one section)?
Should you want to print other very useful mods please search in my designs for 'exoskeleton' and 'Y frame exoskeleton'... Both will drastically improve you A8 !

What (speed) setting do you use to print these bushings? My A8 needs 40 minutes to print ONE bushing! O.o

exactly how do you manage that? my printer churns one bushing out in 8 minutes.

40 minutes for 2 grams of PLA !!!! Incredible, do you really print them hollow with the spiral vase actiivated in the slicer ?

My settings are around 50mm/sec for the external perimeter.
It is sliced with a layer of 0.2mm.
If you look at the video, you'll see it printing, it goes quite fast as it is a spiral vase with a continous z motion with no other motion than a continous print. It lasts around 5 minutes.

Okay.... my external parameters are printed with around 30mm/s. I think I will try it again with 50mm/s.

I found the issue with this on my slicer (S3D) - There is a setting 'Adjust printing speed for layers below xx seconds' - This was set to 15 seconds on my slicer so once I disabled I was able to get 60mm/s speed.

Does this work for replacing all of the bearings?
Even the Y&X&Z?
I understand I may need to print new bushings, but can these take the weight of the headbed/etc?

I designed this to replace the Y bushings. So no problem for Y: the load of the headbed is not a concern. They were installed 4 weeks ago and are running pretty well !

For X, I only know one guy has installed them on the ANET A8 with success.

For Z, I don't think they will work on an ANET A8 whose white Z carriages is open (I mean the bushing is not fully cylindric ther is a slot so that the bushing is springy)... But I know it works well on ANET A6 Z axis (positive feedback of another guy !)

Awesome!
I'll just make fully enclosed carriages for the Z axis for a good press fit, and give it a shot for X as well!
I'll let you know how it goes in the next 3 weeks when my printer arrives! hahaha

Great !
That would be the first printer with all nine LM8UU replaced by my little ones ;-)
I'm waiting for the feddbacks , Please post pictures when installed ("I made one" tab)!

Just got my printer last week and phase one is done!
I've gotten 7 of 11 bearings printed!
Planning on replacing X&Y first, and I'm using your "LM8UU housing" for them as well!
I'll post what I've "made" soon!
So far I've only printed 1 housing, and trying to sand it to proper tolerances
(I printed them base-down and forgot supports, but it turned out fine!)
Do you think it would be better or worse to sand the ID of the bearings?

Edit:
I think i made a huugee boo-boo.
I printed the bearings in .4 layer height!
They seem to be smooth sliding on the rods, but i'll test the .2's before I consider them a loss or not.
I also seem to have a bit of z-wobble I have to fix as well anyway!

Take care, I don't think the spiral bushings would work properly on the Z axis...

I thing it would have been better to print the housing vertically just because what is important is the symetry on revolution of the inner cylinder. When you print horizontaly the circle is not perfect as it is sliced.
But if is works OK for you, why not !

To fix the Z wobble, just measure the distances between the threaded rod and the smooth one at the level of the brass nut, compare it the the distance at the level of the motor mount and if different unscrew the motor and push it in the right direction...

Awesome! Thanks, I'll try to print them vertically instead!

And definitely will look into fixing my Z wobble!

are these equivilent to lm8uu bearings?

Yes, indeed !

Isso esta pronto para imprimir ou precisa de algum ajuste?

It worked as published for me and another guy, but according to your printer accuracy it may need to be adjsted ...

Can i use Z axis this?

If your Z axis linear ball bearng is embedded inside a fully cylindrical bushing, it will work... On an ANET A8 where the bushing is not fully cylindrical it won't !

When i import it to cura there is no hole, the whole thing is filled. What do I do?

This is normal, you have then to use the spiral vase setting of cura. And the slicer will only print the perimeter living the thing hollow...

Will these work from PLA? Or do you recommend another material to print them in?

Yes PLA is fine.
I think most people print the printable bushings using PLA. it is flexible enought and has low friction

I was looking to print some fot the z and x rods of my a6, but can't find the height parameter in the customizer. Is it only me? :) I guess I can always scale z via slicer for the lenght I need. Thank you aeropic

My fault, there was a double ";;" that prevented the customizer to interpret the H parameter.
It's now fixed, please try to customize again.

Beside this, As the Z rods bushings are not fully cylindrical, there is an opening on the whole lenght acting as a spring , I'm not sure this bushing will work properly for Z. it might deform with the pressure applied by the open cylinder ... Just check and tell me !

I have taken apart a z bearing, looks just about the same as the other linear bearings! I guess I'll have to try :) I'm in the middle of some heavy mods on my A6 so that might take a while.. Now I'm trying again to customize but it's showing me a thinghiverse error.

On another note: the bearing I've installed on the E10 are going very well, they have been working for 40hr or so now, still silk smooth and with no play :)

Yes, the bearings in long or short versions are identical. But their supports are not. On the Anet A8, the white plastic supports are not fully at the size of the bearing, and there is a vertical cut all along the length which allows for some flexion...

Thanks for the good news on the Y axis bearings. Mine too with around, 30 hours of printing time are working pretty well !

Oh yeah!! Now I understand! Sorry man :) On the A6 there is no cut on the z bearing holder and the bearing inside are press fitted :) I'll see what I can do. That's great man, thanks again for your great design!

wow this is brilliant! fits great, feels durable after sliding them on the rods and way better than my printed igus style lm8uu :D

please post a picture with a "i made one" !

Thank you, this is the kind of feedback I like

what's the process of installing them? im currently printing the last two ones for the y axis

To install them you must unscrew the original bushing and take them off the rod. Then, remove one circlip and push the linear ball bearing away. Replace it by the printed one, test it on the rod to see if the dimension is correct and if yes, install the circlips and place the bushing in place...

Before printing all 4, I would suggest you calibrate the correct dimension that will fit with your printer. Read the whole dexcription and the "customize it" section first !

If you don't get a free bushing, you might remove one from the Y axis. It should work with only 3. Then use the bushing and test it on one Z axis...

Interesting design, I'll give it a try!
What about durability?Are you using lubrication?

As there is nearly no friction and as the spikes are springy I am ready to bet for a good durabilty.
But it's too early for a feedback....
I don't use any lubricant

Well, actually there is no friction when you test it on vertical rod. But when you put them on a Y-rod with a heavy bed on them the friction is much bigger than in LM8UU

A bit of friction is not bad for print quality... Check them during print and you'll see it reduces Y ringing.

I bet it's super quiet with those bushings too isn't it?

Yes, no balls grinding noise anymore, but the Y motor noise is still present !

Yes, I heard the Y motor noise on your videos.
Mine sounds a lot quieter.
Might be because I installed fibreglass reinforced belts... dunno...
or maybe you've got vibration on the bed/Y-carriage when it's moving.
I'm moving/modding to longer 10mm rail-rods and 20x30cm PEI coated hotbed soon, so I will skip this mod.
Done most of your other designs though, pics coming up soon.
But keep up the very good work. I really like the well-thought-of keep-it-simple designs you come up with.

Thanks for the feedback, I appreciate !
I'm waiting for the pics "I made one" ;-)