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CR-10 Adjustable Z-Stop REMIXED (Improved)

by rc101 Sep 12, 2017
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Oh man, thank you so much for this. My CR-10s seems to change it's Z height every time I turn on the printer. The bed is level, but I always had to adjust height up or down, depending on what mood my printer was in that day. Sometimes it changed between prints which was super annoying. I even swapped out the Z end-stop sensor, but it didn't make it much better.

I have a 400x400 bed with a low spot in the middle, so I also had a bed-jack underneath prop up that low spot. every time I leveled the bed, I would also have to re-adjust the bed jack.

Got your design printed and installed, and it's made my life so much easier!! Now, when I turn on the printer, I warm it up and auto-home. I check the bed clearance and just have to adjust the sensor a bit instead of having to re-level the entire bed. This makes it so much faster to start printing. Now, instead of the bed jack, I just have a solid piece under there, and my only adjustment is the Z stop.

You're welcome. Really happy it has made your life better for 3D printing. It just didn't make sense to re-level every corner when only the Z height needed adjusting. This is why I print with a skirt at the start to see if the first layer is fine and can catch it at the very beginning.

I also use it mainly when I change build plates from glass to mirror or P.E.I. , etc... Happy printing.

looks like a practical thing, but educate me, why do you need adjustable z-stop? (honest question)

When you change to different build plates/beds and don't want to re-level all four corners. I have the stock glass bed, a mirror bed from Lowes, and one with PEI on glass.

Hello, would you mind add a version of this that uses 4mm screws and bolts, more common ?

I wonder if Tevo changed the alignment of the soldered components on the PCB. If I put the two rows into the 'slots' (assuming that's what they're for) one is too low and if I place both rows into the larger one, it's too high. I'll probably fix this by making it just a single big notch so the component leads don't need to be anywhere in particular - do you see any issues with that?

Did you ever create files for a tevo tornado version or can you point me to one? A search didn't find anything and I don't have "flush cutters".

Nope. After solving the issue with the cutters, I had no reason to address the issue further. BTW, flush cutters are very handy and are around $6 for a pair. You use them to trim leads on circuit boards, clip wires, anything that needs to be cut with precision close to something else. Search Amazon (or similar) for 'flush cutter' - for example, on Amazon, they're $4.35 for the Hakko CHP-170 pair, which is what I have.

Thanks for the followup. I've ordered the cutters you mentioned but it will be a couple of weeks. I just thought having a published adjustable z endstop for the tevo tornado would be useful for others as currently NOTHING comes close. I stumbled across this one by accident. I have no idea how to modify stl files but if it's just a matter of moving the two holes hopefully someone will eventually do a remix/spinoff.

I don't have a Tevo to test with. This was originally designed for the CR-10. Sorry.

Oh LOL - duh. Sorry to bug ya. Guess I need to pay more attention to what I'm looking at - they're similar, but not identical. Thanks for the re-mix!

FWIW, I just used a pair of flush-cutters to remove the raised part between the two indentations and that worked great. The screw holes are still good for mounting the Tevo board once you do that. Just FYI for anyone else with a Tevo trying to use this.

My print has the same issue as shown in the photos with the white plastic - the nut is way too large to go into the slot. Is this intended? Should I pound it in with a rubber mallet?

The flats of the hex nut are on the sides to prevent rotation. You can use a small knife or screw driver to open the slot a little more but the hex nut should not spin or the level won't move vertically.

Nevermind - I used a bar clamp to press it in, and then a small screwdriver to set it fully in.

Great improvement of this rc101. Works great. I'm just learning 3d design. IF you have a chance how about moving the screw mount holes from the side to the end below the adjusting knob. This would allow this to mount on it's side for end stop adjustment of the Y axis. I'm adding a Y stop to the front. This will prevent over shooting 300 on the Y which causes the belt to jump. If you don't have the time I'll do a remix once I'm up to speed.

Again great remix and good job Joey99!

Thanks Gonzo_54. Currently I won't be creating a modification for the Y axis so feel free to remix it (I have no issues with the y-axis). I only improved Joey99's design because I use different built plates on glass for different filament types and fixing it allows me to use only one adjustment. If you do remix it, please give proper credit to Joey99 for the original design and me for the improvements.

Printed this on my CR 10 S4 and it came out really good. Strangely though after fitting it seemed a bit low so i just drilled the two holes for the z stop switch with a 2.5 mm hand drill so the sensor was a bit higher on the sliding insert.... thankfully its found the sweet spot between not too loose and not too tight on the bed levelling adjustment .
Great bracket thx to rc101 and of course Joey99.

Thanks for the feedback. I may consider adding additional hole mounts higher in the sensor block based on your experience. Thanks for letting me know.

Thank you. I just printed it and everything is too tight. The wheel requires a hard push and now I've slid the two main parts together I needed a screwdriver to get them apart - seriously tight. I used PLA but have never made anything that's a close fit before. IS there some kind of machine calibration I need to do? Or possibly a setting? I printed this with Cura on my MP Select Mini for my CR-10. Thanks.

You can try to scale the sensor block/turning knob down a little (98% instead of 100%). Also, you should print a calibration cube and see how far off your printer is on dimensions.

Thanks, I'll try calibration. I've never printed the block as everything has turned out nice but I wasn't concerned with dimensional accuracy before. I assume then I can tweak the printer firmware if needed to calibrate the steppers.

Hi! Very good design! I made changes so that the part came up to Tronxy X3 3d- printer. Could you change the license terms so that I can publish my version for everyone?

Hi Traffix75, I just changed it to Non-commercial, share alike. Please make sure to give credit to Joey99 for the original design and me for the improvements.

Wondering how it hold the Z height in place without accidentally knock it over. I'm thinking there must be a tension needed there. am I wrong?

The sensor block slides on the main block using side channels. The height is adjusted and locked with the screw and M3 hex nut. You can look at the blue model and rotate it to see the model.