Loading

MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.

Download Now

junaling

CR-10 table top enclosure frame

by junaling Nov 30, 2017
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

hello junaling,

first of all, thank you very much for sharing this with us, this is brilliant and very good looking!!

i started to print the structure in order to make a copy but i was just wondering about the panels you chose :
i read in the description that we can choose any material we want but would you please tell me what did you choose for the back section of your own enclosure?

white corrugated plastic on back & sides panels? black foam board on the top?
why did you choose to mix them?
was it for insulating purpose or fire prevention?

thank you for your help,
and have a great day :)

The white panels are foam board 4mm thick I have to squish the edges to make it fit. The black panel on top is corrugated plastic 4mm thick as well. Both I feel has good insulating properties, light and easy to work with. My original plan was to put a filter on top that's why I chose plastic which is tougher than the foam board.

Can you tell me the dimensions of the cutout needed for the access door?

210 x 130 mm

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Quick question about the corrugated plastic. I'm building this for my cat's safety. However can corrugated plastic support the weight of a cat? Or should I maybe get a piece of nice plywood and do a makeshift attachment at the top to make a "tabletop" for it? Also have you thought of a roll of 3mm rubber for the sidewalls? Playing around with ideas for different materials now. My local store seems to only sell 4mm corrugated plastic :(

I guess it depends on how heavy your cat is :) the corrugated plastic is pretty sturdy once bolted to the frame. You can also use a 1/8 inch thick plywood, which is slightly thicker than 3mm, then make the sides thinner. The only materials I've tried are plexiglass, foamboard and corrugated plastic.

why are their two 1 files

1.stl prints upright, 1_flat.stl prints flat. Some people have problem printing upright.

They are the same length so it doesn't matter which one you choose as long as you can properly print it.

Great idea. Would it be possible to adopt this to fit the cr-10S 5S (500 500 500)?

Sure you can, look at this make: https://www.thingiverse.com/make:452507

You can scale the frame (not the corners) and/or use several of them to achieve the appropriate dimensions for your intended use, then simply adjust the panel sizes accordingly

CR-10 table top enclosure frame
by Proph3t

Thx for the hint :-)

I'm thinking of maybe modifying the enclosure to give a bit more leeway to the printer, since it's a Tevo Tornado rather than a CR-10. If I want to expand the enclosure, you did specify that I should lengthen the frames. My question is, could I lengthen the 'front' B-D and A-C sides of the enclosure by scaling (4) and (5) to let's say 50mm, and printing 4 extra ones and fitting them between the 'front' B-D and A-C edges? I'd like to ideally extend the enclosure so that the plexiglass is a whole number in cm, to make the plexiglass easier to acquire as well.

I'm assuming if I extend the frames by x mm, the plexiglass simply gets extended by x mm in that direction as well? Seems straightforward in my head but it's going to be one of my first 3D Printing projects so I want to double check.

Also, it's not fully clear to me what the pins do/where they go. Could you elaborate on that? If it's not that inconvenient for you, could you provide a picture as well?

Thanks a lot, I apologize for asking so many questions. Hopefully through this project I'll be able to learn a lot more about scaling/modifying models!

EDIT: Also, you said that the panel slots were 3mm wide, but you used 2mm plexiglass. Will 3mm plexiglass then also fit, or is it better to stick to 2mm?

Yes just scale them according to your needs, and yeah you can have several, the pins are used to connect the pieces together see attached. 3mm plexiglass might be too tight and you may have difficulty fitting them in.

Perfect, that cleared things up for me. Thanks for your help, I appreciate it!

what fan shroud are you using for the hot end?

CR-10 hanging fan/part cooler for stock, Microswiss and E3D v6 hotends

What sort of temperature should I expect it to be in the enclosure? I've been running my bed at 90C and extruder at 250C for about 30 minutes and its only got up to 26C

I've got a CR-10S, and the bed heats to 40C in a minute or two. Where are you located? If you are in the USA there is a switch on the right side of the box - make sure it is set to 110 V (and not 220 V).

I did not measure myself, see CDNmovn's comment below, he is consistently getting 38 degrees inside the enclosure

Curious if you were able to get the corrugated plastic panels in on the corner slots. I’m trying to squeeze them into the corners. One side fits in snuggly but getting the whole edge to squeeze into the other side is proving to be a huge feat. I may jue end up glueing it to the sides of the corner brackets instead of fitting it in the slots

The trick is to slide the panels in (your corrugated plastic) as you assemble the frames and corners. If you assemble and glue the frames and corners without the panels, then yeah it will be a challenge to get the panels in.

Yeah that’s what I’m trying to do. Just to snug of a space between the plastic and the slot. And tends to snap back out when I’m placing another frame piece. I’ll figure something out.
Thanks

Ow ok, just squish them a bit more and make sure there's nothing in the slots, good luck :)

Wasn’t able to squish the panels in so I just glued the whole frame and then recut the panels a bit smaller so I could screen them in. Some blood, sweat, tape and hours later I finally have a finished product. Overall I’m a happy ans looks pretty good. Thank you.

On what is the enclosure standing? (is it a Ikea lack table?)
Just one question on what is the control box standing?

I have all of my printers on an Ikea BEKVAM rolling island. It is solid and does not move with the printer and it also has storage underneath for filament. Best part is you can roll them around without lifting the printer off

My control box is on the upper shelf under the table, cables are go through holes on the table top. The table is custom made, 28 inch cube, 1/2 inch mdf, attached with kreg

Just a quick comment. I made this enclosure (pics in the Made section) and I have to give the designer huge props. It is easy to print and assemble (but a big project) and it works extremely well! I have been printing for a week in ABS with the enclosure. Prior to having the enclosure printing ABS was not possible. Now my temp inside the box half way up the enclosure is a constant 38 degrees C.

I added Home Depot weather stripping around the opening to get a good seal (I had some gaps)

Would highly recommend to any CR10 user who is looking for more consistent prints.

Thanks, yes it's a big project, I'd recommend doing the brace before doing this, I wish I had.

The braces work great! Your right it was an easier first project

Braces being the Z tower braces?

Thank you very much. I just picked up about a month ago my first 3D printer which is a CR-10S and have been reading up as much as I can regarding setting it up properly and making it the best I can.

Your enclosure design looks great. May it be printed out of PLA or do you suggest a different material? Do you find that it helps when printing other materials?

Thanks again

Yes PLA should be fine, reason why I suggest the brace, whether you use my design or another, is to help with the tall prints

Okay great. I would gather that your enclosure also helps with printing ABS?

Any type of enclosure helps to prevent cracking, warping, lifting and even adhesion when printing ABS

Thank you very much. Appreciate your quick replies.

The #2 and #3 pieces seem to be too short. With the dimensions on the pdf (R-546x612) they would need to be 288mm but they are 250mm.

I got the plexiglass laser cut to the dims on the pdf, spent the last week printing.. I just did a dry fit and figured out that the #2 and #3 pieces are 38mm too short.

Dims match with the R piece cut to size (568 wide on the front) the #2 piece on the bottom has a gap of 38mm.

Unless I am missing something? The math adds up though A+B (bottoms) is 140+140=280

280+288= 568

Any chance you could update it? or send the fusion 360 file and I could do it for you if you are busy.

I am in Edmonton too :) Awesome enclosure too, by the way!

I noticed the same thing after ordering foam board wider than commonly available. It appears to me that the design has been narrowed to allow for 20" wide foam board to fit across the back which is readily available. Prior to the change, you needed about 21.5" wide foam board across the back. The designer will have to verify, but I just cut my R and T panels 38mm less wide, and it's all going together now. It would be nice to update the instruction sheet with the 508mm width instead of 546mm.

Yeah, I just reprinted with the extra 38mm. I had my panels cut in plexiglass so it was the easier of two options for me.

I also added two cooling fans as the temp would get to about 35° inside with the bed at 70°, making PLA prints fail. I used two noctua 140mm fans and it keeps the temp around 24° now.

Sorry for that folks, yeah my bad I uploaded the wrong files, those (2 and 3) were from my original narrow version that does not match the sketch, I'll upload the correct ones. Thanks for catching this

I just cut my sheets to size by measuring. Noticed the dimensions on the plan were bigger than needed. However, my enclosure is finished and fits perfectly.

The only thing I am working on is the filament pathway. The big access door does not facilitate how filament gets in

The legs of A, B, E and F are not the same length, it might be that you've got the wrong leg for that side.

If you need to adjust the lengths of 2 and 3 you can simply scale it along it's length in your slicer.

I use FreeCAD :)

will https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2123233 fit in the case without scaling something?

Frame Braces for Creality CR-10, Tevo Tornado, and Afinibot A31

I don't know how much those rods sticks out, there's about 2cm clearance at the enclosure ceiling.

See my brace, simple and effective :
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2731263

CR-10 simple brace

Awesome Enclosure!!! Took me forever to find the perfect one. Now its just going to take me a few sleepless nights to print!

Really beautiful design. Thanks for sharing it. Love the fact it’s essentially all 3D printed. For a 3D printer this in my opinion is the only way to go. Will be doing one up ASAP. May try to print the handle bars too!

I pretty much finished printing the front side of the box, minus the 1.stl. I'm having trouble printing 1.stl upright. Right around 200mm in z height, everything above that get's a bit wavy. Is it due to table vibrations effecting the print?

Did you print this with the stock CR10, or already had your CR-10 simple brace installed already? Or do you just slow down the print speed after 200mm (If so, by how much)? Currently my print speed is set to 60mm/s, but outer walls are at 30mm/s, while inner wall is at 60mm/s.

I did not have the brace installed when I printed this, I wish I had. I had exactly the same problem with 1.stl and wasted a lot of filament on this one, in the end as long as the layer shifts are not too pronounce and I can still insert the pins and slide the panels, I didn't care I used the part.

Slowing down the overall print speed to say about 40 will help, also slow down your travel speed to say 80 or lower.

Good luck :)

So with the brace installed, do you think it'd solve the issues and allow me to print at the current speed of 60 mm/s? Debating if I should just print and install the brace first. Is the wavy issue just because the print is tall and thin, or it happens to tall wider prints too? Does the brace solve this type of issue?

Or the best option would be to lower the print speed settings once I pass 200 mm, even with the brace installed?

Try lowering the speed first, also check your belts and make sure they are tight.

Another thing to check is your z-rod, make sure it's not binding and correctly aligned with the motor shaft.

Can you remove the tiny circular feet from part 1 so that we can print it flat? Having to print it upright causes the slicer to lower the printing speed, almost doubling the print time compared to the other struts.

1-flat.stl uploaded, you may need supports to print this

this will print support also in the inner hole, u could never peal out this stuff?! -.-

It was meant to be printed upright :) anyway you can still rotate it so you can print it without support, see attached screenshot, you can shave the first 2 layers off in your slicer so the first layer has more area, you must have good bed adhesion. BUT even with this I had no success :(

I had no success in getting good results from printing in vertically, even after slowing down the speed after it reached 190mm in height.

Succeeded in printing the 1-flat.stl the second time around. The trick is to rotate it like how you have it to print without support, and use a huge brim (I set it to 22-24mm in Cura). Initially brim was set to 8 (too small) and I had the side ones curl up, but with a really wide brim it printed out great =).

Almost done printing the whole thing. Just gotta print the rest of the part 1s out.

Good for you. I had no luck printing it that way, maybe because I did not use brims. Good luck rest of the way, please post your make when done, thanks.

could work with brim, but u said u need support :D im fine with the vertically now ... im done in 1-2 weeks

Yeah, barring any mishaps and failed prints, good luck. What are you using for panels ?

I just started printing mine in PLA. Printing part A as I type. But wow... that part alone is just a little under 6 hours at a 0.2 layer height. Lol, will be in this for the long haul. Any idea what the total print time is?

Are there any parts I can just lump together to print, that won't affect the quality that much? If printing all at once (the pins maybe?).

You can print as many parts as your bed can accommodate by rotating the parts in your slicer, BUT, in case of failure you may loose a few, or the whole batch trust me it happened to me. The pins yeah, I printed them 10 at a time. What's your print speed BTW?

Print speed is set to my normal default of 60 mm/s.

=/ Going to try again tomorrow. Halfway done and lost it to a tangle in the filament spool. Now I learn that it's not good to loose the tension at the end of your filament when storing it. The slight unravel caused it to overlap and tangle.

I like mine... here are a couple pics.... as you can see I used the window shrink wrap for the panels like I told you about.... also the wire management for factory length wires and filament tpu entry...

Dang that looks great !

Thanks.

Love this! Going to make one. Thx for the handle bracket update!

Why are the corners not similar to each other? same for the T pieces ?

the corners and L pieces are not the same to save filament and print time, the ones at the bottom does not need a bottom panel, whereas those at the top does

Im going crazy, the long part (1) kicked off the bed a second time on the last 20mm -.-

one last try, then i cut this in two pieces with more pins :D

I tried many things and am slowly getting there. I rotated the 1-flat file, but a huge brim on it, and that worked fine (failed without the brim, failed if not rotated, failed if upright). However, it was difficult to clear the brim out of the spaces needed for the plexiglass.

I then shrunk the 1 regular (upright) to 50% tall and printed 2, putting them together to form one piece. I did have to resize the pins down to 95% in order to get them to put these pieces together. I also shrunk the regular pins to 98% as they were a bit too tight of a fit sometimes otherwise.

Perhaps I need to put the brace on the printer for better quality control. I'm still learning. :) Thanks for a cool enclosure - it's almost done!

:) happened to me a few times, needs good bed adhesion, print at 0.2, squeeze the first layer and slow down the print a bit

In the PDF file it shows I need to print R, S and T files but there are no files marked R, S or T. Could you please give some assistance?

Those are the panels, flexiglass, cardboard, foamboard, plywood, corrugated sheets, etc. your choice

Nice enclosure! I thought of printing it, how much filament did it use?

edit: I did calculation and came up with 1,6kg of filament. Little more should go as I wasn´t sure about usage of those panel washers.

I wasn't able to keep track how much filament I used, I definitely wasted a lot on prototypes :)

The panel washers prevent the panels from being crushed and disperse the stress when you tighten the bolt/nut especially when you use soft materials foam board for example, for plexiglass if you over tighten it may crack.

Ok, thanks for the info.

I started the print just right now, I'm using orange and white PLA. I thought of using black/white panels.

Thanks, I will let you know how it goes.

I didn´t notice any info on infill, I used 25% because it looked rigid enough on S3D.

yes that should be fine, also the parts are designed so they can be printed without supports

Where did you find the cooling Fang on your cr10?

CR-10 quick release dual 30mm part blower
CR-10 hanging fan/part cooler for stock, Microswiss and E3D v6 hotends

Beautiful enclosure! I've only had my CR-10S for a few weeks and have wondered about printing ABS. A lot of videos and posts talk about the difficulty of printing ABS because of the open nature of the printer, so this seems well worth it (Although I don't know the benefits yet of ABS...).

I'm a Follower of you now! I love the cable management you have and that's going to be my next print. Also, being a Pittsburgh Sports fan I love the fact that you rig is also Black and Yellow :)

Hi Buddy!
This thing ROCKS. Easily the best design I've seen ~Fanboy~ :-)
Got a couple (dozen, LOL) Q's.

  1. Is that an IKEA LACK table or a custom built?
  2. What plastic did you use? The door catches look to be a different plastic, what is that silver? How much filament did it take? Print time?
  3. Looks like there's very little room between the right side and the X Axis belt adjuster, how close is it? (Leads to my next Q)
  4. You're feeding filament from the bottom, Yes?
  5. I was thinking this gives only a little insulation. The rear section is foam board per the post. I was thinking I have some of that foil reflective insulation sheet (Reflectix) https://www.homedepot.com/p/Reflectix-16-in-x-25-ft-Double-Reflective-Insulation-with-Staple-Tab-ST16025/100012574
    I was thinking of making a sandwich of it between two foam board for the back sides, but perhaps overkill since I'd want the front to remain clear... or double foam boards. Would that be a fitment issue with so little clearance for the printer? Perhaps extend the front & rear rails a bit? Your thoughts? (I TOLD you I had a bunch!)
    Thanks, and thanks again for a great design!
    PuterPro

1) custom built, basically a 28 inch cube made from half inch mdf, some shelving, attached with kreg
2) all pla, just dfifferent colors
3) very close, say about a quarter inch from the tip of the screw
4) both filament and controller box are at the bottom
5) for sure, you can add insulation, my original intent was simply to protect the print from draft, which cause issues when printing ABS

you can extend the rails by scaling along it's length in your slicer to enlarge the enclosure

Thanks so much for the answers!
Now all I need is my CR-10S. It's been stuck in the Beijing airport "Awaiting inspection" for 5 days. Sound like a totally bad joke - "How long does it take to determine it's a box?" Typical bureaucracy.

Well done sir! Alot of time invested... hats off to you...

Thanks. Yes, time and filament, goes by so fast :)