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jjlionberger

Desiccant Box (DryBox)

by jjlionberger Sep 5, 2017
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Thanks for posting this.

I just printed a few of these and they worked great at .12 resolution using Slic3r with 3 layers top/bottom and 3 perimeters, and Hatchbox PLA at 215c. At .2 layer height the excessive number of retractions required to print the area between the holes caused some of the layers to under extrude and create weak points.

Just a couple of notes/suggestions:
The solid lid container (V1) is probably the best option for most as it is significantly easier to fill and if it's placed upside down wherever it's going to be used the exposure for the silica is effectively the same. The through hole may seem like a slight advantage for use inside the center of a spool but since the spool is probably also inside a container or bag the actual environment that is being dehumidified is so small (low volume) that the effects of one vs the other would be negligible.

The thread design is perfect and the lid prints very quickly with the perfect amount of clearance to be secure but not too tight.

The body of the jar could be made to print much faster and stronger, with less retractions, by using slots instead of holes. By changing the holes into rectangular slots of the same width (Diameter) but 2-4 times the height you would reduce the number of holes by the same factor. The less holes you have the less individual print paths are required which means the paths that would exist would be longer with less start/stop retractions. Over the course of a print like this saving a few seconds per layers would results in 30 or more minutes less total printing. If you staggered the slots so that each row was offset from the row below it (i.e. brick wall pattern) the print would also be stronger.

If you can send me the original file I'll modify it with slits and post up a remix. As is, the design has too many surfaces (Facets) to be converted to an editable format (Mesh to BREP) in my software. Or, if you used a standard thread size just tell me what that was and I'll remake the canister to fit the existing lid threads.

How much desiccant does this container hold?

is it possible to make this thing customizable?

I liked this so much, I made two. One question though. Wouldn't it make more sense to add pin holes through the top of the lid, so the air could circulate / enter a bit more. The entire cylinder in inside another cylinder (the spool) and it seems as designed, the thing will do a great job of keeping the air between it and the spool hole dry, but I don't see how the filament will benefit as greatly.
just some ideas for improvement

I thought about this, but for ease of printing and strength the lid has a taper on the inside and maybe not ideal for pin holes, but I did think about just putting a larger hole in the center of the lid for air flow. To do this, I would have to extend the center up more to seal it off with the taper in the lid. Might try to revisit this when I get a chance, but the amount that the lid is tightened would affect the gap between the center column and the lid seal point and this might be different depending on the material and printer used to pint. Anyway, thanks for your input.

thank you for the new design. I will print one out and give it a shot. Sadly for me, the blue dessicant I bought on Amazon is just the right size to fall through the holes. Avoid this one: http://a.co/cWq1Nju

Tyvm will print and comment accordingly

Will this fit into the center of a filament spool at the 75% scale?

Yes, the spools I use, this fits in the center nicely. There may be some spools out there with a smaller center that maybe it wouldn't fit, but all the spools I have it fits fine and allows some air movement in and around the desiccant.

NICE WORK!!! thank you! I was just thinking whipping one up in Fusion, but you save me the trouble. Waiting for filament to print this.

Do have a question though, I see from one of the photos you were able to bridge across the internal ribs without any support? Which filament did you use? I print quite a bit of nGen and that bridges pretty well, but don't know if I was ever able to bridge that big of a gap. ( ~10mm).

Yes, I used eSun PLA + and it does very well at bridging things like this. The gap is small so it isn't a very far reach. I made another out of clear PETG and I could tell it had more issue bridging especially without any cooling fan, but it still came out pretty good. I could put in some radii on the bottom that would help with the bridging, but in the prints of this I have done, it isn't needed. The PLA + and PLA Plus is great material and should print fine. Even the PETG was acceptable with no fan, but not sure on other materials if they do as well. If you want and it helps I could add a large radii or chamfer.

For some reason, Simplify3d V4.0.0 won't slice the lid.

My S3D version 4.0 on the Mac had zero issues with slicing it, I kept the words on the upper surface, and added some supports under the cap.

It works fine in Cura. I also tried a few other programs to see if I can see a problem, but they all open it fine. You could also take the original without the scaling and scale it in Simplify3d by .75 and it should fit fine. The lid is not modified any other than scaled down. https://www.thingiverse.com/download:3192702 link to lid file.