Loading

MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.

Download Now

adrianm1972

Hypercube 300 CoreXY

by adrianm1972 Sep 5, 2017
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

Is this still a viable project? Video series ended prematurely. Wondering if this is a dead project and the Evo is the way to go....

I built the Z carriage for the four linear rod set up and used the parts from the original Tech2C hypercube for the X and Y.

Yes, it's viable... but Evo has more support (and 3030 is sturdier).
With HC300 you need to be "very creative" because there aren't videos or info... you know :(

What is the printable area ? 300x300x300?

Cant find in your files the Extruder carriage

Adrian's extruder is here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2519252. You can click his username and see all the designs he has added.

All New Spring Loaded Bowden Extruder

It's a bowden printer... You need to add your own extruder :D

The Nema 17 with integrated leadscrew on your BOM does not have a length. How long do the leadscrews need to be? Great work by the way. I am working on printing and ordering everything.

given how the z-motors are mounted in the pictures, I'd assume that the lead-screws are the same length as the z-axis travel with a bit extra to cover the bed support thickness, so that should give you a ballpark to work from.

For the most part, that is what I guessed. I didn't want to guess wrong and not have long enough ones. For those that have made this, how did you like the 10mm carbon fiber rods for the x-axis? I am a little worried about tolerance on the carbon fiber with the IGUS bearings. Where did you guys get your carbon fiber? Was straightness an issue?

The Z motor length is 400mm, I also noticed it is missing from the BOM and it was not mentioned in the video. I had shorter screws in the motors I had and replaced them with 450mm lead screws which I needed to cut down to clear the xy joiners.

For the X carriage bearings I used this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2630603/files for bearings. I followed the instructions here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2202854 to get the sizes correct. I did try IGUS bushings but there was too much play, I used the original Hypercube X carriage parts for my build.

I did have a couple of rods come in that were tapered badly and not straight but did get some that were good, they are 10mm OD 6mm ID tubes. I also made sure to get Super Lube silicone grease and oil for lubrication.I got my tubes from Amazon but I have read that HaoZhong Carbon Fiber Tube on eBay is quite good.

HyperCube X Bushing (mightynozzle Igus design) v2
Customizable Linear Bushing / Bearing - LM8UU, LM8LUU, LM12UU, LM12LUU, LM16UU, ... IGUS like

What's the real size of the folger tech heat bed?
is it 300x300 or 328x328?

The BIQU MK2A 300mm heated bed fits fine, assume it is just the standard 300mm bed which is 328mm*328mm. I use it with a MKS mosfet and a 24v PSU, it uses about 15 amps.

Hi adrian, congrats for the great work.

Do you have XY carriage and X Carriage made for 8mm rods? Also whats the exactly size of X rods

I dontunderstand what do you use to print. if you have an inductive then you should print over a metallic surface, right? You dont use glass?

To clarify, inductive sensors have a detection distance that they will react to the presence of metal in, this is typically 3-8mm depending on the exact sensor, and the standard glass for 3D printer beds is 3mm thick, so as far as the sensor is considered, the glass is invisible and doesn't affect the functionality at all. In short, it all comes down to making sure that the glass is thinner than the inductive sensor trigger distance.

The thing is that those chinese 4mm inductives wont pass trough glass

One more thing. the leadscrews should be 400mm long?

I got an 8mm NPN sensor model LJ18A3-8-Z/BX. This senses about 5mm above aluminium and works fine on 5v.

Hello Adrian,
In your comment on January 29 you said: "I just added a zip file of Marlin 1.1.5 100% configured for the HC300 and ready to go in the thing files section."
But I can't find it. Could you please repost it or give us a link where to download it from.

Thanks

Hello 3D Guru,
Could you let me know what proximity sensor you are using. I couldn't find the part number anywhere.
Thanks a lot.

IGUS is selling custom cut carbon shafts that are better in terms of precision compared to what you can get on ebay.
What is the exact final length we need to have those rods ?
I guess the 500mm length specified in the BOM is a generic length that needs to be adjusted.

hi
is the HC_XY_Carriage_Make_2 for 10mm rod or 8mm ?

8mm is best for the Y axis rods. The LM8LUU bearing is much lighter than a LM10LUU

Your reply to ozyturay on Apr 11 does. :/

Whoops, he mentioned the wrong bearing number first and I didn't spot it. Sorry.

Could you update the BOM file with the bearing number? I think that'd help avoid confusion. When I was watching the hypercube build videos on YouTube he mentioned making the same mistake, ordering the 625 instead of 623.

Certainly, I will do so asap!

It is easy to buy the rods cuts to length : what length do you recommend for the z axis and the y axis ?

The Z rods are 385mm

The Y rods are 438mm

Are you sure you don't mean F623ZZ bearings? The F625ZZ bearings have a 5mm shaft, 14mm diameter and 5mm width, and don't fit in your parts at all. The F623ZZ bearings are 3mm shaft, 10mm diameter, and 4mm width. I know this because I just received 20 of the wrong ones. :(

Yes, F623ZZ are the correct 3x10x4 flanged bearings for the Hypercube idlers. Not sure where F625ZZ on this thing page. I do use one of that bearing in my latest rev of the extruder.

Hello, what is the best material for building this Hypercube 300 ?
PLA, ABS ? with 0.1mm @50% infill ? Thanks :)

My personal one is PLA. It is super stiff and works great. I have printed the parts in PETG and was very unimpressed. The PETG parts were very flexible no matter how many top and bottom layers or perimeter shells i used.

I've noticed the bed support and the motor mount are way off if you're using a 42x42mm Nema 17 motor. I've redesigned a few parts for better strength and with the right dimensions for that motor

Not sure what you mean. I use 42x36 Nema 17's in the prototype pictured. I am building a 2nd machine with 42x48 Nema 17's now. I had to drop the secondary y axis extrusion a few mm so its corner bracket would clear the bottom of the motor but that was it.

How do you configure the dual z and will it cause problem if I'm using cheap LM8UU on the Z axis. I'm waiting eagerly for your next video Thanks !

Just plug the two stepper motors into the dual z stepper header pins on the RAMPS board. That's it.

If you are using cheap linear bearings just keep an eye on your linear rods. Look at them closely after every print. The bearings cna lock up n them and that will wear grooves in your rods. You can put new bearings on a grooved rod just make sure you turn the bearing so the balls in the LM8UU or LUU do not run where the grooves are.

Is there any chance we can get something like the STEP files (or Fusion 360 or whatever was used to design this)? It's a great design and I'd like to make a few modifications.

Hello Adrian,

Can you upload your firmware for your printer? I intend to make mine as close to yours as possible (with the exception of using a different LCD screen and such) but your firmware would be a good jumping off point.

Hello Adrian and thank you for the very nice assembly videos you've published on youtube. You have nailed the issue that these CoreXY builds seem to have with your clever assembly tools and your strict assembly process. I am currently evaluating several CoreXY designs at the moment. Not being particularly budget restrain as the build process will last a few months, I am looking at the Voron 2 and the Hypercube Evolution. They all have roughly the same build volume. The Voron2 seems to be the most advanced of them all, but I absolutely admire your build process. Something that I find disturbing though is the fact that for a 300cm3 printer you still have chosen 2020 extrusions. This is something that I may consider a bit undersized in terms of vibration transmission. Not having your build experience with this particular model, do you see any issue building one Hypercube 300 using 3030 instead in terms of parts clearance/overall geometry (except for the bed assembly of course that would remain in 2020) ? Assembly tools would have to be slightly redesigned but that seems feasible without too much effort. Or do you thing 3030 is absolute overkill in terms of rigidity and in particular vibration dampening at high speeds (100mm/s +). Thanks !

Hi adrian, have you still got the stl for 10mm y carrage and xy joiners? Cheers

Really want to try this out but how hard is it from the firmware end of things.. I've loaded Marlin onto my A8 but that's the extent of my ability

Can you share your marlin firmware source code? thanks

Can we use 20T idlers instead of F625ZZ bearings in the part HC_XY_Carriage_Make_2.stl or should i use PurchenZuPoden's XY Joiner and XY Idler parts?

I want to use all your parts because of asthetic harmony between parts but if i need to i will mix parts from different sources.

Please note that the F625zz bearings are incorrect. The idlers use F632zz bearings.

The idlers will not fit in my parts. I had originally planned to modify the parts to use them but after 2000 hours of printing with the flanged bearings running perfectly I didn't see any reason to switch to them. Note that if you do switch to smooth or toothed idlers make sure you are getting them from a source that uses really good quality bearings. Many of the idlers use smaller bearings than F625ZZ's and they do not hold up well over time.

Thank you for your quick reply. I already use them for my P3Steel (X and Y belts) and as i still have a lot in my drawers it would be nice to use them instead of ordering flanged bearings. BTW waiting for the next video. :)

Hi,
I just printed the (old) "HC300_New_Z_Carriage" set and noticed that you removed them. Was there a problem with it? Should I print the new ones or those should be fine (even if they use only 1 LM8UU each)?

Also, where did you get your carbon fiber rods from? I ordered those at banggood and they have such bad tolerence that they are basically useless. (10.04mm on one end, 9.84 center and 10.1 on the other end...)

Thank you!

I am sorry. The ones with the single LM8UU does not work well. They are impossible to get running smoothly. The latest ones can be run with 2 LM8UU's or 1 LM8LUU in each corner. I prefer the latter.

Alright, thanks!

I did not see the Z-carriage bearing caps on Thingiverse that you referred to on your 3dGuru page. What is the name you used for it? Thanks

Yeah, I updated the z carriage design a couple of weeks after I posted the video. They are all one piece now. No cap. They go on the heated bed frame the same though.

Comments deleted.

Hello, did you deleted the enclosure for the smaller LCD version? I coudn't find it.

I deleted it some time ago. I made many changes to the RAMPS box and it no longer fit. To reduce confusion I standardized on the full graphic 12864 LCD and enclosure.

Thanks for the reply. I will make my own. :)

I was researching the Hypercube projects, starting with Tech2c, and then i find your project.
Your project is the best match for my needs (an Hypercube with 300^3 print area).

But i have some questions.

1 - Is mandatory to use this 10mm carbon fiber tubes on X axis?
The 8mm linear rods don't work well on X axis? There is an alternative X carriage for this standard 8mm setup?

2 - I already ordered the T8 leadscrew and Flexible Coupling for use with standard NEMA step motors on Z axis.
I think it's ok to use then instead of NEMA with integrated leadscrews. I just need to add space for the Flexible Coupling right?

Thank you and congrats for your project.

  1. If you are using carbon tubes 10mm is the minimum size that will provide good stiffness. 8mm aluminum or steel linear rods would work but would add so much mass that it would negatively affect the print quality and speed of the printer.

  2. The flex coupling works, there is plenty of room for it.

Hi i like your design
I would like to use an Linear rail ( because i have one ) für the Heftend carrier can you send me the one file as STEp or IGES fusion 360 isn't importing the STLS well this would be very nice i then draw 2 pieces and a new carrier in fusion thx

Can you give me info about the Z carriage piece that looks like it was designed to replace the metal corners and replace the bushing/bearing mount that you advertise in your video? Do you no longer recommend this part?

We no longer use that part. The parts in the videos are the latest parts,

In the BOM you have flanged bearings listed. Do you have the size/part no. and/or source? Thanks.

The bearings are F623ZZ. I have gotten them from banggood.com, ZYLtech.com, smw3d.com and folgertech.com. All have been good quality.

I'm just about done building mine and I have one problem. The 12mm prox sensor I have hits the cooling fan. Could you make it stick out farther or maybe make an editable file available to I can give it a try? Thanks for the great work.

I'm starting to think I screwed up my parts order.... I used the Hypercube calculator, but I'm thinking I should have just added 100mm to all parts in the BOM for a HC400.....

Hello guys, does the Z axis has in total 8 bearings? Are there 2 in every corner?

Yes or you can order 4 LM8LUU instead for use with the latest z carriages. I think they would be even better since they are one piece.

Hi Adrian,
The latest Ramps Enclosure is way different. I noticed you swapped the sides so the MOSFET for the bed heater is now on the other side where the power came in for the ramps board, and the power openings would now be in the middle of the cube. Is this correct?
Thanks for your excellent work on this awesome printer.

This is correct. You can mount the power supply up front and it makes all the wires MUCH shorter. The new RAMPS box prints much faster and uses much less material. The LCD enclosure now integrates a Raspberry Pi 3 using the mounts and spacers in the things list.

The Hypercube 300 had a lot of optional parts. I think I am going to break this thing up into a couple more pages in order to make things easier to find and elaborate on.

Thanks for the quick reply and recommending the power supply move. That’s an excellent idea and makes sense now. I will plan on moving it during my rebuild with all the new parts.

Hi! I'm currently printing all the parts for the HC 300, with my homemade prusa i3! But i can't seem to find the LCD case/holder for the reprapdiscount LCD, the smaller one. Is it possible that you could upload this file?

I have gone to a more simple RAMPS enclosure and the Full Graphic LCD. The more simple enclosure is much easier and faster to print and the newer LCD can be had for $11. I would suggest going that route. If you really really want the old files let me know and I will see if I have them saved somewhere.

Yeah, i know. The thing is, i already have the reprap discount LCD, and i'm not going to buy the full graphic's one just yet, if you want to send it to me here is my mail julimaier@outlook.es

The centerwall in the HC300_Z_Carriage_Bearing_Caps is too wide. They measure 4mm and the space for the two LM8UU is 50mm.
2 LM8UU + 4mm = 2 24mm + 4mm = 52mm

Arrgh, you got me! I took the center spacer out of the latest rev of the Z Carriages but I did not take it out of the caps. Give me a sec....

New Z Carriage bearing cap STL's have been uploaded. All should be good now.

Hi Adrian,

Would you mind to add 12mm dia for Z rods please as an alternative option?

I don't have plans to support Z rods that size. They really serve no purpose. 4x 8mm rods are rock solid, 4x 12mm rods is excessive, 2x 12mm rods is not as stiff as 4x 8mm rods.

Thank you for taking your time to reply Adrian. I am building to be pretty bomb proof. I have already got the 12mm rods, and was hoping to use your Z rod holder for this build but by upgrading to 12mm. Many thanks for your work on this project.

First of all, thank you for your promptness and help.
Second, I noticed that you are using RPI3 with 12864 LCD but I do not see what motherboard you connect to.
Is there a link to this project somewhere?
Do your Marlin firmware load in RPI3 or do you load Octoprint or other firmware?

I am using a Mega2560/RAMPS combo with Marlin to control the printer. That's in the big rectangular box behind the LCD. The RPi3 is loaded with Octoprint and is connected via a short 6" USB cable to the Mega2560. It's all very standard 3D printer hardware.

I just added a zip file of Marlin 1.1.5 100% configured for the HC300 and ready to go in the thing files section. Just load it to your Mega/RAMPS controller, set your stepper values for X,Y, Z and E then set your Z offset for your bed to nozzle distance and you are ready to print!

Hello Adrian

Can you please upload this file again, or at least publish the settings for this? Speed, jerk, accel and so on :)

Hello.
I really like your project about Hypercube 3D Corexy.
I have analyzed quite carefully the files you posted and I think there is a missing piece, "X_Carriage"
Is it even missing or not finding it?

I missed uploading it when I updated the stl's. It's there now. I also pulled down the new Z carriages. They did not work out as planned. I put the previous Z carriages back with a few updates.

How do you think your design would work for a 400 x 400 x 400 print area? Or would you suggest a different build entirely?

I could not answer honestly about how it would work at that X and Y size as I have not tried it. I know you can extend the Z and it would still work perfectly.

if I extend the Z how many MM should I add for Z tower. extrusion,rod,leadscrew etc
Thank you

Can you tell me if I could buy the pieces you printed from somewhere? For starters, I would not want to buy a printer just to print these pieces and then have nothing to do with it.

Or if you had the older pieces disassembled and you do not use them anymore in order to put it into operation. Because after that, I will print them.

Can you give us a link to the firmware you use? and what changes should be made to it?

There are many places that could print the parts for you. I can't print parts as I just don't have the time with work and family. I would join the Hypercube CoreXY facebook group and see if you can get someone there to print the parts for you,

I just added a zip file of Marlin 1.1.5 100% configured for the HC300 and ready to go. Just load it, set your stepper values for X,Y, Z and E then set your Z off set for your bed to nozzles distance and you are ready to print!

My original Hypercube has been working pretty good for about 2 months now. I'm glad you put the effort into redesigning some of the parts to make it better. Getting ready to start printing these new ones which I believe will bring this printer up from a level 8.5 to a 10 point rating.
My only complaint is the consistence from one print to the next. I usually have to tweak and tune at the start of each print even if it's the same model.
I do believe it has something to do with the carriage bearings on the hot end having too much play. Looking forward to printing the "bearingless" parts as well as updating the rest. Overall this printer has produced really nice models after a bit of tuning at the start of a print.
Thank You for your devotion and efforts with this project.

Update on using the new carriage bushings (no igus bearing):
Mine are made out of PETG but I think PLA would hold up just as well.
I have put a couple of hundred hours on a pair of these updated bushings and have not noticed any wear.
Also it has greatly improved the prints and consistency at startup. I spend a lot less time tweaking the 1st layer now and have almost 0 false starts now. Getting rid of the slop that the igus bearings were causing fixed many issues.
Thanks Adrian for continuing to improve on this 3d printer.

Thanks man, I appreciate the kind words! It's a lot of fun iterating, tweaking and tuning to get better performace.

Comments deleted.

how long is the space under printer?

105 from the table top to the bottom of the lower extrusion

thank you! appreciate your works :D

What is the printable area ?

How much is it? for buil one like this

If you are ok with using E3D clones and you are aggressive at looking for the lowest cost sources for the parts you can get one together as low as $450. With a few premium bits (like a real E3D and integrated lead screw Z stepper motors) and getting stuff from faster suppliers it could cost up to$600 or more if you go crazy with high watt AC bed heaters, etc...

Another question, would you go with a Bowden or since I have a Titan Aero would you go with a direct drive? If Direct Drive anyone have a mount for the hypercube for a Titan Aero with fan duct for layer cooling

I would go bowden. Direct drive 3D printers have unnecessary mass where you don't want it and this forces you to either print slower or deal with more ghosting artifacts and wavy surfaces.

Where are the X CARRIAGE and bowden extruder files?

Hi, if I used Z motors with shaft coupling and I would also like to put an acrylic lid, could I use the Z motor assembly rotated 180 °?

Hi, may I know what is the model number of the flanged Bearings (and what do you mean by 2x 10pk..?) and stepper motors? Is the lead screw built-in to the stepper motors? I am now sourcing parts and hoping to order them this week. Thanks!

F623ZZ, you need two 10 packs as this is usually the cheapest way to order them. You will actually use 16 bearings.

Do you have build instructions for this?

No but if you watch Tech2C's youtube videos you should be able to figure it out.

Of you think of the left and right Z axis parts as what tech2c has at the back of his printer it will be pretty clear.

Looks like your bed design is different tho. I can probably figure it out by examining your pic closer but just wanted to see if you had that designed somewhere

hello there, thanks for sharing this thing
in red circle that made from aluminium or printed by abs?

Those are all 3d printed from silver PLA.

As vhoward122 said they are 3d printed in silver PLA. My prototype is all PLA and is doing great after almost 800 hours of printing. I printed 12 printers worth of parts in PETG and I can honestly say I prefer the PLA parts. PETG flexes too much. Especially the motor mounts. My PLA motor mounts are rock solid.

Those are really well printed parts. You could print them in ABS, PLA or PETG. PLA won't hold up a well as the other 2 and I prefer PETG.

Thank you for replay :)

Hi Guys!!

I have been using a Tevo Tarantula which has been modified to some kind of franken as of today, but I'd like to move onto a CoreXY which is why I have decided to build this as my new workhorse.

Thank you adrianm1972 for writing this up for the 300x300 BOM.

I have ordered all parts and decided to share with you guys a supplier which I found on Aliexpress. I can't vouch for them as of yet since the items just arrived however I was very happy with the price in total ! seriously I have not found a cheaper alternative to getting the frame parts including the 300mm heat bed with rods bushings and everything. I did a comparison with different vendors and sourced locally (Singapore) which most of the times have much cheaper alternative but buying the pre cut alumium as well as every part included for this build is just so much easier and cheaper.

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/2062033?spm=a2g0s.9042647.0.0.YYDRqR

I used the attached BOM for the parts ordered. This guy pretty much can provide any combination you'd like which is why I think its a pretty good source for us DIY'ers.

I am not in any way connected to this seller or even know them, just something I think worth sharing for us.

My quoted price was SGD135 + SGD35 (Shipping). I dont know anywhere else that beats this price. If any of you have a chaper source pls do share as well.

Hi, I can't see a list of 2020 extrusion sizes in the BOM, is this using the same dimensions as the original hypercube? The HC will be my first printer, so far I only ordered the printed parts for the original. I'll have to build the original before I can print the parts for this remix. I just want to make sure I won't cut the 2020 too short to convert to this. Also, is it possible to fit a 300x300 heated bed in tech2c's model? Thanks.

Row 14 of the BOM: 10x 440mm, 4x 600mm, 2x 410mm, 2x 235mm

How long do you have the feet on the unit? I was thinking of mounting the electronics a little different. I have 8 1m 2020 on the way which is not enough to do this job as is but if the vertical was 560mm i could do it.

The feet are 105mm. You can use 520mm Z extrusions (25mm feet to give clearance for the Z motors) and still get 300mm Z volume.

You could build it with a shorter z. You just lose z print height.

Sure but unless you are very space limited the additional cost to have the 300mm Z volume is almost nothing.

I don't have this printer, sorry.

I don't have this printer, sorry.

I missed that. Thanks.

Hello, I tried to print the XY Joiner 8mm Print 2. But the rod mounts are not 8 mm. They are closer to 10mm.. Could it be a wrong file you uploaded? I'm quite sure my printer is printing in the right scale. And that I printed the right stl. :)

See attached screenshot with the two stl's right next to each other.

Yes, those are 10mm opening on both files for the 10mm carbon X axis tubes. The 8 or 10mm refers to the diameter of y axis rods.

This looks like a great design. The added Y extrusions tuck all the Z axis parts in underneath the XY motion system in an elegant way and has allowed you to use dual Z azis on the sides without growing the X dimension over original hypercube plus the extra 100mm build area growth.

However, I have a question about the Y frame dimension. Reading the BOM, it seems your Y extrusions are 440mm, is that correct? If so, it seems that Y frame dimension has increased 137mm to gain 100mm build area. Is this because you had originally intended to mount the extra Z axis components at the front?

With the design you have now, what do you think is the shortest Y frame dimensions that could be used? 403mm or even a bit shorter?
I ask both because I want to keep frame dimensions as compact as possible and also because I have already purchased 400mm Y rods.

I ignored the configurator and made the printer square on my prototype. I had changed a few things that could limit y travel but eneded up not doing that on the final version. You can make the Y extrusions 37mm shorter.

Is there anyway you can upload the model(s) used to hold the power supply onto the frame?

I just uploaded the PSU mounts sized for the ubiquitous Meanwell 360W (12v 30A) PSU the thing files for this thing.

It's a separate thing: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2520995

I will be posting a new version for the standard meanwell 30A 12V PSU everyone uses shortly.

HP Server DPS-1200FB Power Supply Extrusion Mounts

Why is there no info on frame spacing for this build? I have the outer frame built. I want to make sure that all of the frame parts that you mount the motors and bed to are spaced the same way. I have the exact same parts as well. Where is this documented?

Because its not super important. You set the secondary Y extrusion location based on how long your right stepper motor is (the lower of the two) and make the left rail the same as the right.

The lower X and Y extrusions can be set 85mm (the lowest you can go with 400mm Z rods) to 105mm (the highest you can go and still get a 300mm Z build volume) away from the bottom of the Z extrusions.

You are telling somebody that's done technical support for the top construction estimators around the world 'It's not super important.'

I wholeheartedly disagree with that statement. It's pretty important when someone is trying to make sure they have their machine calibrated correctly.

I saw all of the pics from your Maker Space Build Day in September and almost every one of them were spaced like yours. Which means either I waste time experimenting, or I set it up right the first time by following your exact build specifications. This is where having some documented measurements would keep people from having to guess at what works best. I wasn't the only one that noticed that. I am sure many of us were expecting it to be in the readme, or at least a 3D file that we could use for reference because your pics don't capture everything someone just starting out would need to know.

There was another thing I noticed in all those build pics as well. They were missing about 12 of the 90 degree braces used to secure the 2020 extrusion that you attached the rails for the bed to. In the Tech2C version he had them on both sides of each piece of 2020 and in your pics it shows them as well. I actually went to the same place that you ordered your parts from because they are about 15 minutes from me. I had to go back today to buy 2 bags of them because I needed 12 + 4 extra to use on the rails that the bed sits on.

I am going to compile some notes when I am done with the build along with some pics and info on what changes I made.

Deneteus - You are WAY overthinking this. Take a deep breath and read this again:

"You set the secondary Y extrusion location based on how long your right stepper motor is (the lower of the two) and make the left rail the same as the right."

Thats pretty specific. Do that and the bed will be able to touch your extruder nozzle so you can achieve Z0. It works trust me.

The lower X and Y extrusions can be set 85mm (the lowest you can go with 400mm Z rods) to 105mm (the highest you can go and still get a 300mm Z build volume) away from the bottom of the Z extrusions."

This is also very specific. Do the above and you will have a 300-320mm Z build volume.

Do the above and everything will work out perfectly.

Also, you are correct, you will need need more corner brackets. We realized that during the group build too. I will update the summary to suggest buying extra's they are nice to have around anyways.

do you have links to the bought items?

are there links the the bought items

are there links the the electronics

are there links to the bought items

Same as Tech2C's Hypercube BOM. You can also get everything from ZYLtech.com in the USA. That's where we got everything for the groups builds.

hi! i am thinking of making this but i am wondering if you have links to the bought items? if not could you put them in?

Do you have the quantities of each printed part that is required? I can't seem to find that information.

I just added this info to the "thing" file names. Sorry it took so long!

I will try to upload files in the next day or two with necessary quantities in the file names.

Are you still intending on uploading quantities or anything like that? I saw someone else post a question about the actual build process and I am also interested in any non common sense instructions.

I will. I've been very busy with work and family stuff. Can't promise when but it will get done. If you look at Tech2C's list of quantities its the same except for the Z motor mounts (make 2) and the Z Rod mounts (Make 4 upper and lower Z rod mounts)

do you have any problems with bed wobbling on the z rods. seems alright one way but i get way too much wobble the other way and with this design dont see how to get rid of it unless i get undersized bearings or oversized rods

I have zero problems with this. I can't see how you could get any wobble on the Z with 4 8mm Z rods captured at both ends. The lead screws would have to be curved more than 5mm to cause wobble and if that's the case you should return them and get replacements

Any chance there are stl's for 10mm Z carriage parts. Great work, thanks.

Sorry, no plans for 10mm Z parts. The 4x 8mm Z setup on the Hypercube 300 is plenty rigid up to ~500mm Z travel. Beyond that you are better off going to V slots and wheels or linear rails.

Hi, I'm building your printer :D awesome work you made! But there is missing XY axis parts, like motor mounts and corners for belts, could you add them? Thanks!

Summary:
...
"You will need to go to Tech2C's Hypercube Thingiverse page, download the print his X and Y motor mounts, belt idler bearing mounts, the XY carriage and all the hot end, fan and probe parts"
...

Hey man thanks for doing all this, this is great. I just had 1 question with you list of times. I am ordering all the parts and you specify 2x100 hammer nuts however never specify what thread size? by looking at your screw list I am going to take a guess its an M5 thread but wanted to make sure before I order them. the hammer (t ) nuts are m5?

I know there is always going to be some modifications and parts don't always work right, but i'm a few days in this build and everything not working, just noticed the nema 17 1.68a 400mm leadscrew z motors i ordered and receipt says same thing are actually 510mm long rods ( BOM said should be 400mm), so I ordered 100mm longer post so end up being 700mm instead of 600mm 2020 like original plan. Nothing else would hurt if just made frame longer and get more Z would it? In your pictures the 8mm z rods look just as long as your z leadscrew, will i need longer z rods or is 500mm rods and 500mm leadscrew going to be good? And how long are your corner 2020? I'm working off your old BOM back a month ago I started getting stuff. And noticed your new BOM says 400mm long z rods, so between the old BOM that had 500 Z rods and SMW3D sending me 500mm long Z leadscrew steppers instead of 400, i think i will be set just making the outer 4 corner 2020 extrusions 100mm longer. But otherwise it is impossible to fit 500mm z rods in 600mm frame and work right like the original BOM said. Or am i missing something or doing something way wrong? And thank you for fixing and updating so quickly.

The BOM you have is for my prototype. I got every linear rod a bit extra long so none would be to short on the prototype. I cut the 500mm Z rods to just under 400mm on my finished machine. The current BOM posted lists the shorted (least expensive) commercially available size needed for the rods. The Y rods need to be cut down to just under the size of your Y extrusions (so you can get them in and out). The Z rods can be used at 400mm but are a little long can could be trimmed. If you build bigger just add whatever increase you want to the dimensions on the BOM.

If you are going for more Z volume the Z motor screws need to be about the same length as the Z rods.

Could'n't you specify somewhere else but here that Y rods needed to be cut out to 440? There is infinite space in BOM sheet for write this down, you know?

xy joiner and the bearing cap for 10mm do not come close to sealing around the bearing, i have a .750 od bearing is that right

Sorry about that I just looked at it and I see what you mean. I made the 8mm version fatter to take the big bearing but I didn't change the ID. Its fixed now.

Comments deleted.

thank you, have them now, any specific measurements on frame spacing, i can kind of tell from pics but just would like to get right and square first time because pain setting the hammer nuts and re squaring frame over and over again. just distance between extrusions if could please, only parts i still haven't received is the 4 z shaft witch would help space the bottom half.

This spacing varies depending on the length of your stepper motors. I put corner brackets on the top and bottom of the lower Y cross beam and slide it up on the right side until it just barely clears the motor. Measure and make the right side the same as the left.

Crink - Sorry for the delay. The 4 files you need are listed after the BOM in the list of thing files.

Really nice design, CoreXY is going to be my next printer 300mm cubed is what I was thinking for build volume! I am going to go with a Diamond Hot end as well. Looking forward to the build (Which will be slow budget wise for me)...I have converted HP DPS-600PB PSU's for RC charging and to power my Prusa clone. I was thinking that two in series would be good for this design going all 24V as they are cheap and I am confident with them (They are really quiet if you ground pin 4 to make the fan variable speed vs load).

Mike

I already bought 10mm bushings and rods, can I still do 10mm version , only thing holding me back from building is frame brackets from china and of course is one of first things need, and thinking of starting to print parts out of PETG carbon filled , is that good stuff for good printer ?

You sure can. Did you already download the 10mm XY Joiner and Y Rod Mount files? If not i'll dig them up and repost them.

Regular PETG is a great material for hypercube parts. You don't need the carbon filled version though. It brutal on brass nozzles. Carbon or glass filled filament can destroy a brass nozzle before one long print is done. You need hardened steel nozzles for that stuff.

Adrian,

Do you have the 10mm XY joiner and rod mount files handy? as it's not in the download pack.

Thanks mate

No just downloaded so only have 8mm version not 10, thank you

Hi Crink,

Did you end up going with 10mm rods? I've done the same and have ordered 10mm gear before xmas and now to find the STL for 10mm mounts aren't in the STL files anymore. Please share if you've found a work around for the 10mm z mounts as Adrian mentioned above he doesn't have 10mm z mounts.

Adrianm1972,

If you still have the STLs handy, can I please grab them of you?

Can you maybe summerize your changes against the stock hypercube?

If I only want 200x200x200 build volume, would I still be able to use your designs?

Most of the changes to the stock parts enables the 300mm^3 build volume in a more compact space. I also focused on increased strength, lighter weight, over all parts count reduction and appearance improvements.

Everything I made for the Hypercube 300 fits the standard version except the Z axis linear bearing carriages. Those are specific to the 300mm printer using a 300mm folger tech FT-5 heated bed.

This is fabulous! Thanks a lot for sharing these files with us.
I could not find the files for PSU mount. Can you include them as well?
Thanks again.

The PSU mount is for a specific server PSU. It's an HP DPS-1200FP 12v 900W unit. I will post it separately sometime this afternoon. If you have Fusion 360 you can convert the STL to a solid model, then cut and extend the mount to fit any PSU.

Thanks a lot for your reply.
This is the same PSU as mine except mine is 750W So your mount should fit.

HP Server DPS-1200FB Power Supply Extrusion Mounts

Nice work...
Im very pleased with my Hypercube, I went 250x200x235 and now that i have done one, i can sure see where improvements can be done... and most of them you have already nailed in this version...
If i build another one this year, will sure do this way too....
hardest thing for me is the heated bed in 300mm size... seems you got a nice one, but is there a 24V version of yours?

I used the latest bed from the Folger Tech FT-5 printer. According to Folger Tech if you have a 24v PSU that can deliver over 1000W and a SSR or MOSFET setup to control the bed that will survive controlling 24v at 39A the bed will take it. If I were to do this I would get 2 HP DPS-1200FP 12v 900W PSU's and run them in series to get 24v/1800W capacity. Not sure where to get a 24v 50A MOSFET or SSR though.

Instructions on modifying HP DPS-1200FP PSU's and running them in series (read it carefully) can be found here:

http://www.rchelination.com/setting-hp-dps-1200fb-power-supply/

At that point, might it be easier to get a headed bed that runs on mains power, and turn it on/off via a relay from the controller? It's not PWM controlled, but perhaps more straight-forward.

If you are starting a new printer that's the best way to go. If you already have the FT-5 bed, going the 24V route is massively less expensive.