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CR-10 Essential Mod Set

by Nerys Aug 30, 2017
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Leveling is way easier thanks to these knobs. Many thanks!

I was too lazy to remove the leveling hardware so I dropped some hot glue in the hole and installed them upsidedown in situ.

Thanks again for these.

The newest cr-10 has these mod already installed

That is correct if you buy a cr-10 today you don't need any of these all three of them come with it

This is only for the early cr-10s

Its to bad this would have been nice if it was separate stl but have to go find another file.

The entire point of this remix is to provide easy gcode for new users of the original machines to load click and go.

if you are on the thing details page (the main page) on the left scroll down a little and there is a link to the original source of each part (I did not design these I just made it easier to print) and from there you can download each item separately.

I can't believe there no pics on what the other parts goes... :(

Ok - so the file doesn't fit my plate.... How do I move them individually? ? I can't figure it out for the life of me.... ARGG!

If you have a stock cr-10 the file fits your plate just fine just load the g code and hit print :-) if you wish to slice to file yourself you can use separate connected parts and move them around or on the main page of this listing on the left hand side scroll down a little bit and you'll see the remixes that is the source of these files you can go to each individual one of those links and download the separate files

Hi Nerys... don't know what's happening I have a new CR-10 the level is ok and look the knobs how they look, I've tried two times.

I'm using the straight GCODE and the filament that came with the printer.


As u can see my lvl looks good.

The CAT is printing pretty ok (see photo).

Bed adhesion is not a problem, maybe speed?

Is that the top surface or the bottom surface? It looks like it's under extruding if it's as simple as under extruding just turn up the flow right on the printer he control knob when it starts to print press the knob in go down to tune then go down to flow rate and turn it to 105

I do tend to run on the lighter of the Extrusion side to make sure parts fit well it's possible your filament is slightly smaller than what I tuned for which would result in an under Extrusion

Never use a square to check your bed level it can be deceptive because if the two endpoints connect the Strand will look like it's fine always use a circle that's about 2/3 the total width of your bed so a 200 mm circle on a CR 10 if the circle doesn't connect you'll know immediately because it will stop being your curve and form a straight line wherever it disconnects

Does the stepper motor ever Skip and jump as its printing you might hear a very small light sounding thunk intermittently if you do watch the stepper as it's printing you'll see the gear very slowly advancing and then when that funk sound occurs you'll see the gear jump back suddenly and then continue advancing until it does it again let me know if that's happening

Solved! It was over tightening of the wheels of Y axis, it was "clicking" at certain points that look like jumping one step.

Calibration cube: X= 20,12 mm Y = 20 mm Z = 20.17 mm

THANKS to all for the help

Today I will calibrate the extruder but have to see where to measure! I know to measure 100mm of filament and mark it on the filament, then ask for extrude that and then see where the mark stays, but I don't know against witch part. I guess the start of the teflon line.

That's why I tell people don't over tighten the belts for the wheels you're just going to introduce noise and problems into your print is all the parts strained to overcome the over-tightening

You want the belt just tight enough to give a tiny twang not a lot and you want the wheels just snug enough to have no wobble no more

I am really glad it's working now make some cool stuff :-)

Here (attached an image) ! doing the 3 knobs that I had left to do after doing a calibration cube and the first good working knob!

Thanks fo all the help and keep going with those informative videos and things in thingiverse good job!

Seems that I have a problem with circles... https://imgur.com/a/PVq5G84 they are squished, seems the Y axis but everything is rolling correctly and the chain is not sagging ... I'm really getting down.

Why on earth did you have to put them all in one single stl, which has a horrible lay out, parts are all spread across the bed for maximum time waste and maximum potential bed leveling defections

Quite a number of reasons actually :-) this file is designed for somebody who has not much difficulty leveling their printer but has difficulty tuning a slicer

Remember these are not my files I just put them together in this configuration if you look on the main page towards the left bottom you'll see where it says remixed from you could download each of the individual files from those links the point of this file is for you to load the g code onto your printer and print all these in one go but more importantly it prints them sequentially so it doesn't just do the first layer for all the parts it does each part one of the time and then moves to the next position to do the next part

In order to do a sequential print it has to be able to move back down to the print bed so it has to be far enough away from the other parts that the printhead does not collide with the already printed parts hence the very large spacing :-)

I hope that makes more sense for you with a nice flat piece of glass leveling these printers is actually not very hard if you watch my cr-10 bed leveling basics you'll be doing it no problem and fast

I understand thank you for your response.

I really love these Mods, but is there any chance you have just the knob file separated from other pieces?

Absolutely first it's important understand I did not design these mods all I did was compile them into a single print to make it easy for new cr10 users to print it out without much fuss

Doing them separately is very easy if you go to the main page for my thingiverse listing for this thing on the left hand side if you scroll down a little bit you'll see it says remixed from and there will be Three Links there for each of the months you can simply click on The link for ultimate print knobs then you can download and print just the knobs

If you think you have a handle on the slicer you can also do this Yourself by loading the STL I provide instead of the gcode and go to separate connected parts this will separate the seven Parts in the print into individual pieces you can then delete the parts you don't want and move them around and print them however you wish

If you run into any trouble by all means ask away

Just want to say your awesome and thank you, sorry I pulled a total noob and should have read more down the comments. I'll give that a try. Thanks again!

the leveling knobs...ok

but for what are the other parts? have you pictures for me please?

You probably do not need them the one is a fan duct this goes on the bottom of the little Parts cooling fan on the side of the hot end if yours comes with a smooth ABS manufactured 1 you do not need it if yours comes with a 3D printed one it could help you

The other part is to provide tension relief for the heat bed wires going to your heated bed on your printer again you probably do not need this one as yours probably came with an injection molded one if it does not you can use it

If your cr-10 is relatively new it probably comes with injection-molded versions of those parts and you won't need them you just need to leveling knobs to make leveling easier the original cr-10s came with some 3D printed parts and made use of those other parts you probably do not need them

I made this file primarily for the G-Code to make it very easy for new users to print out these essential parts all they have to do is load the G-Code order SD card and hit print and know that they will get good results as long as they're bed is level

If you go to the primary Details page on the left hand side halfway down there are links to the sources for these files I did not design them I simply mix them together like this to make it easy for people you can download and print just the leveling knobs from the original creator

Don't hesitate to ask if you have anymore questions

Used the GCode on my CR-10S

Straight up perfect !

Could you guestimate how much filament is needed for these to print? I would like to use a color for which I would normally have no use for, and there are these samples of 10m length that one can get...

Would it fit the CR-10S

I just finished T800 Head and it Turned out Great !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Love this Printer



Yes it will fit the CR 10s although you should only need the knobs the CR 10s should come with the bracket for the heating cable wires and the updated ABS molded blower shroud so you should not need those two parts just the 4 control knobs

The knobs are awesome. Why is the quality better when you print in sequential mode?

Because when you print continuously the printer has to stop a printing the layer of one part move to the other part and then begin printing again there's the possibility of errors although minor and splooging plastic from the nozzle as it moves from one to the other by doing them sequentially you eliminate that this also means if you fail 60% in you already have two knobs so you just have to print two more while he fell 60% in doing them all you have nothing :-) but you have to have the parts far enough apart and short enough to not interfere with the mechanics of the printer thankfully these are very short so there's no problem

This was the first print on my CR-10. It turned out great!


For those who cannot print this project: In Cura -> Print setup -> Custom -> Build plate adhesion -> none
Skirt will need 5mm more space, that's why it does not work

To author: please add the separate models, some people don't need all models in the project.
Thank you!


Just separating connected hearts then you can move them a little bit I'm going to adjust the g code as for not needing all the parts that's no problem go to the remix from section and you can go to each individual part from its original author

I remixed that fan shroud to give it a bit more meat around the screw holes. Feel free to add it to this if you feel that way inclinded.

Can someone post a picture of the stress relief bracket installed.

Great collection, though the "Y Strain Relief - Relieves stress on your heat bed connection" comes with the CR-10 these days it seems.

The buttons are wonderful, just printed them and make future levelling less of a pain :).

I just try out the Knobs it fits with the CR-10 Mini
They are great, thanks

Did you already find a Strain relief bracket for heated bed cable for our Mini that fits? I think this is very important to have one. thanks

Does it fit to the CR-10 Mini?

The knobs do. I haven't tried the rest yet but I would imagine they would.

the Fan shroud will but is not needed as it comes with a nice molded shroud

I am not sure about the tension relief.

as for the knobs. hang on let me check. on visual inspection I want to say yes they will fit. I will confirm physically tonight but I don't see anything getting in the way on visually checking.

yes that would be nice.
let me know if it fits, thanks physically of course ;-)

Nerys, The mod for the fan shroud, will it work with the Ender 2?

No. The ender 2 lacks a dedicated parts cooling fan so nothing for the shroud to attach too. With care for most prints it does not need one.

Hey Dude!
do you know if these mods also will work with the Tevo Tornado?

The answer is absolutely not and absolutely yes will these kinds of parts fit yes will these parts fit know these parts are specific to the cr10 although the duct for the fan might be identical since they appear to use the very same cooling fan I will test this there are large leveling knobs for the tevo tornado don't use the curved ones they're pain to print require support use the flat ones they work great

Printed the parts just to realize they doesn't fit the CR-10 500x500. Would be great if you could mention this in the descripion :-)

Good to know. Its listed for the cr10 not s4 or s5. I think it will fit the mini not sure yet. I will update to mention it specifically does not fit the s5 i assume not the s4 though i can test that soon. Too bad. I love the big wheels. Soooo easy to adjust :-)

In your YouTube video, that "extra material" you removed from the center of the knob control was not extra. It was the bottom of the knob where it sits. Don't remove that layer. It's supposed to be there to have the knob sit in it. Yeah, your gcode puts the control knobs way too close to the edge of the build plate. Just thought I would pass along some constructive criticism. Good job with the video. The knobs work great. I did pass on the air mod. It seems too close to the original. The strain relief worked well too.

the air mod is essential. its close because IT IS nearly identical and it does make a visible difference. the issue is the stock duct was blowing more at the nozzle and not at the part. the new one is just s VERY slight angle change so the air goes where it should. at the printed part.

the extra material was "splooge" from over squishing (elephant's foot). I did not remove any part of the print. this extra squish kept the knob from properly "inserting" nothing more :-)

Not to be too picky, especially since I didn't do the work, but this would be much more helpful if the parts were in different files so that you could print one at a time (like if one got damaged, for instance).

they are not my files. so simply reposting them would be. funny morally. I did this to make it easy for people new with CR-10 to use known good and tested gcode to get the parts and get them right to get them going.

now if you goto the thing details page (the main page) and scroll down on the left side you will see a section called Remixed From.

Those three are the separate sources that I got these files from (IE same files but not all together) Just select the one you want and download. or in your slicer simply "separate connected parts" to disconnect them and delete the ones you do not want. (assuming your slicer can do that I am not sure what they can and can not do outside of S3D)

Got it! I guess I was just a bit lazy and didn't think things through. FYI, I'm using Cura, and I have never actually had a reason to do the "separate connected parts" bit, but now I'll take a look (I usually make my own drawings/parts for work projects, but just picked up a new CR-10 for my house, so it would be a bit of a waste not to utilize the generosity of the community and grab some upgrades!) Like I said, I didn't want to sound obnoxious, so I'm really glad that you took it the right way. (And many thanks to everyone for putting out helpful parts!)

Can you tell me how long this print job takes? Its looks great so far on the printer! Thank you!

I want to say 8 hours roughly but if your bed level is very good you can probably crank up the speed a little bit

Yes I will try that! Thanks!

Not able to fit them all on the 300x300x400 build plate in Cura 2.7 with your .STL! Have to manually rearrange them to a ever so slightly build area.

It fits fine you have an issue in Kura use the g code file included now I know and simplify it likes to limit meter 290 by 290 but I go all the way to 300 by 300 so your software might be doing the same thing

i tried to print the gcode via octoprint and the x and z axis where trying to go beyond there limits! horrible sounds.

will now try to upload it to sdcard and let the firmware handle the gcode.

huh. this is the actual gcode I used on my CR-10 to print these very parts you see in the picture. so "odd" to say the least. IT IS close to the edges of the bed (wanted to make sure the head did not get in the way since its a sequential print and since you can mod the head.... further was better)

I know a lot of slicers like to make the 300x300 into 290x290 I will try to redo this to be within those limits and see if it works out ok. if it does I will update the gcode on here to accommodate that change.

now that is strange. I already did that it seems. the combined file is 288x288 so MORE than within the tolerance limits of the CR-10's 300x300. strange. this is well outside my experience envelope (octopi etc..) so I have no idea how or why that would happen.

Works absolutely perfectly....For help he has a good youtube video. Well worth the print, was even successful for a noob's second print ever!