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PropsFactory

Linear Bearings, IGUS Style !!!

by PropsFactory Jun 14, 2012
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Can you make some with 11mm diameter inside I have 2 11 mm rods and 4 9mm (well that problem you solved already :- ) need some 11 mm though for those 11mm rods Please. which you had an openscad version so people can adjust based on their printers slop. Maybe I should design that hmmm parametric igus style hmmm let's see if you make the 11mm before I design a variant myself.
terramir

Well, looks like I will have to give this a try. I read through all the comments and Most seem quite please with this. I am so tired of replacing bearings and hearing them vibrate.....

Thanks

my next and 3rd printer will be self built from scratch and this is a good start... used 0.3 nozzle, pla white, 185° 60° bed, they came up very clean with 0.1mm inner diameter smaller, which will be cured with a 8mm drill. tg let me find this, love it! will also try to make with 0.2 nozz.

0.4mm nozzle.

0.25mm layers

240c e3d nozzle

100c glass bed

~20mm/s external perimeters

101.3% scale diameter for ABS shrinkage

Could be tighter. But I am so glad I found these. They are way better than the original bearings I was using.

printed on a startt and worked fine... so much better then the bearings. silent and smooth!

I am still using these on my main 3D printer and I printed them there is almost 5 years. I have so much spares, I won't print new ones for a long time :)

I printed 1 and it was a little too loose so I changed the nozzle size setting in sli3r from .5mm to .4mm and reposted file. The next part was perfect...

i have only 0.4 nozzle, it's a problem to print with this?

Wanting to integrate these into a model. Would you post the cad files?

To all the people complaining about part not fitting:
Have you calibrated your printer? steps per mm for X,Y,Z, calibrated E value for extruder?
Simply print test cube 2cm/2cm/2cm and measure it. For this kind of print printer has to be super precise. If it doesn't fit simply drill the hole with 8mm drill.

My PLA LM8UUs came out good on OD, but the ID was too tight. A 21/64" drill bit is slightly over 8mm, but it cut away just enough material for a good fit.

I printed LM8UU_9mm.Inside.stl but it fits very loose. Is it supposed to? Suggestions?

The LM8UU_9mm is a LM8UU profile size, but with a 9mm Inside Diameter so it will be loose on 8mm axis

no not all is it supposed to be loose

Lm8uu, too wide on the outside and small on the inside.
The smooth rod does not enter the part, and the part does not fit into the holder.

Sounds like you are over extruding, if it's the same amount both ways adjust your extrusion multiplier

I have an odd request- the bearing holder in this stl collection https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/96857071/Dreamer%20STL%20Files.zip needs a self lubricating bearing that has a 10mm id and 16mm od - 10-12 mm long (it could be longer as it could be glued in place.

Is it possible to mod your design for this? Thanks!!

I've been using Chinese lm8uu bearings on multiple printers without any complaints until I just received a bad batch on my latest build. I printed the ver 3 lm8uu in ABS (that's what was already in the printer), and its fits perfect. No more Chinese bearings for me! Thank you very much for posting this.

Hi,

I think im going to give these bearings a try. I see most have printed with PLA, what is the best material for these? I have PLA, PETG, and Nylon 680 to work with.
thanks

IGUS Iglide I150-1.75-750 I150 Tribo 3D Printing Filament would be the best filament as it is what it is made for. :o)

Nozzle temperature (min.) 464 °F (240 °C)

Nozzle temperature (max.) 482 °F (250 °C)

Bed temperature (min.) 68 °F (20 °C)

Bed temperature (max.) 140 °F (60 °C)

Hi, is it possible to create a set of lme8uu bearings?

they are 8x16x25, so small change.

Thanks for your work and effort

I made a little video where Im printing them and using them as well if you want to ake a look how they run.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ksoyBFeU6NY

Thanks for posting a video.

I prented them in ABS in december and they have been working great to this day . Ona fact is that they do wear out, but they still work, they even work better becasue they polish themself . I have them on X carraige on my prusa i3 and they are good as new , only on Y axis they are wer out. But they are supposed to be printed in PLA . Just print them and then take 8mm drill bit and drill thru them, then put them on threaded rod and let them run for a while , then wash them, wipe the rod and put silicone grease on rod ,, then are so quiet ! And cheap to make .

Ive printed like 4 of these and they either dont fit on the rod or go on and have way to much play.....Can someone link me a working model of the lm8uu for the 8mm x axis rods??

I have wasted so much plastic and time on these, someone PLEASE help me!!! I dont understand how the hell people are printing these with a good fit...

Have you tried to adjust your extrusion rate?

I see these have been around for years, but I have not seen any comments on how long they last? Compared to the cheapy ebay Chinese bearings?

Comments deleted.

nice job move the lm8uu great work

Could you add the LM8LUU ? It's approximatly 2*length of the LM8UU :) Thank you !

Simply take the LM8UU and scale it twice on Z

May I ask for a LM14UU?
I have some of these rods from Lexmark Printers.

These are GREAT. No more noise and smooth as glass. I used a 5/16 chucking reamer first and followed up with an "O" size reamer. I used silicone grease for my RC car ball differential. Perfect fit with no slop, no noise, no vibration and essentially no wear on the smooth rods. Next is the X carriage then my other printer will get this too. I chose PLA since it is hard therefore less friction and most importantly less stiction. I may try a scaled version (x and y axis only) of the 10mm. The design looks like even less contact area.

print these in abs? or pla?

Am I the only one not being able to slice them with slic3r ?
"Object is not a manifold" then when slicing I got the main hole that is a full part ...
Edit :is it possible to print them with a 0.4 nozzle?

Do you have the sketchup or scad files for the LM8UU? The inside is the correct size, but I need the outside about 1mm larger

It worked very well!
I had to specify -0.1 tolerance on my Slic3r to better fit but maybe it is only for my setup.
Thanks!

Be great if this could be resized for different od stock. Particularly looking for 1/2" emt conduit. Think it's .710

hi, been using these on my prusa i2 for months now and love them, they're much more quiet and smooth than the standard lm8uu
bearings on my other printer.

Ive started another project and was curious if you could make one with 11mm ID? the large rods in inkjet printers are 11mm.

Printed these in ABS:

infill=0

Perimeter=3

They are now installed in my solidoodle Y axis, working great.

I'm very happy with these, and will be replacing every linear bearing in the printer with them.
They were longer than original sleeve bearings, so I cut these in half after printing to match size.

Tips the get the best from these:

-end that is started on the build platform:
you may need to cut some of this off as it was a bit squished up and caused extra friction.

-When you first install them there will most likely be WAY too much resistance for the motor to move properly, if at all. You'll want to spray the rods with silicon lubricant. If the printer still does not slide properly, slowly add a few drops of acetone to rods on both sides of the bearings, then slide the axis a while. It will eventually free up, you may need to drip more acetone onto the rods, and slide them more to get them right.The acetone will very slightly melt the inside of the bearings better to the shape of the rod.
After the acetone treatment, give them another good dose of silicon lubricant, followed by an hour print to wear them in, I just did a dry run. The extra lubricant, followed by a dry run for a while will make sure the acetone is all gone.

But thanks! These bearings work great! sooo much better than the sleeve bearings! and they cost so little.

Would ABS be sufficient? I understand it will need to be replaced
every week or so due to the oils? What if I were to use gun grease?
Please respond im freaking out this is amazing. great job!

This shouldn't be a problem
You should use a silicon lubricant
And I don't really think you need to replace them each week ...
So let's try and enjoy !

Hi! These bearings seem to be nice for a delta-type 3d printer. Is it possible to buy some? Do you sell them?

or try 3dhubs.com

Try your local Hackerspace.....

Not selling them, but you can ask around you for people who can print you some !

What do you think about "3-in-1 Oil"? It's a bit smelly, but has low viscosity. I'm curious whether it would soften PLA or corrode stainless steel.

Any chance you can make one for a 9mm rod? I accidentally purchased that dimension from McMaster and would love to be able to use it!

I added one, it's based on a LM8UU but ID is 9mm, must be printed like this
Nozzle <=0.4mm or less > 2/3 perimeters/0 Infill
Nozzle 0.5mm 1 Perimeter, 100% infill.

Hmm, i would love to use a few LM12UU's. Think I could just scale a LM10UU? What would the scaling factor be? (Save me some guess-n-test) :-)

Done. Feel free to try & ask.

Made one and used it as a quick fix on Huxleys x-carriage upgrade.
Still missing another "real" LM6UU.  In meanwhile finding one  a quick fix that worked!First I cut it in half and second cut to make out a sector possible to fit it in without need to take linears out. They do not press tight but takes most of the wobble out. There should be a close up picture about this in "made one" section.

What about a "Real" LM6UU dimensions ? i'll give a try ...

Did you use the scad of the original toothed bearing? Could you please post the settings you used?

Thanks

I printed a bunch of these and they work great.... mine printed a bit tight so i used a piece of allthread and scraped back and forth a bunch tell the fit the rods smoothly and snug.... they are working awesome

I cannot get the 6mm STL to slice. It says that the model is not manifest. Fixing with meshlab didn't do the job (but I am no meshlab expert). Any ideas?

Very cool. Will have to give these a shot.

This parts look almost like those which I made some time ago :)

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18219http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

Toothed Linear Bearing
by KR2

Oh yeahh !! didn't find this one ! When I was searching for IGUS Bearings I found that this might be a nice idea :)

Adding as derivative ;)

I'd suggest white lithium grease as a lubricant. WD40 isn't a lube, and will actually eat up parts over time.

ABS is an elastic polymer. PLA is the better of the two to make your bearings.

Very nice design!

Rather use Q20 if you can get it where you live
8-)

I think ABS will squeeze a bit more than PLA and tight more but let's try I have no more ABS in stock yet.

Wd40 is generall considered evil as a lubricant, as it is a digestive, how long do they last?.

I had no problem using them with WD40 for now, and sprayed a lot of it on my rods/pla parts with no problems 'til today :)

But if you're not sure ... you can use another lubricant :)