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chito

CR-10 Heavy Duty customisable modular e3D V6 mount Volcano 5015 ABL

by chito Aug 22, 2017
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For the BLTouch & 5050 mount I'd love it if it where a few mm lower down, right now when the BLTouch triggers the nozzle is very close to the bed, if there is plastic oozing it will always stick to the bed, if the nozzle was just a few mm higher above the bed that wouldn't happen.

Edit: oh and the X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER value I think is off, it wouldn't home the center of the bed with -58mm, I set it to -69mm and it's fine.

Edit 2: also I don't understand why in the v1.2 wings the holes for the hex nuts where made smaller, they just don't fit right now into the holes. The v1.2 bodies nut holes are perfectly fine, but the wings are just useless at this point - I broke 3 wings trying to insert the nuts and I still can't get them in.

is it possible to get the stl? i would like to modify it for a chimera+!

I think you are missing all the right hand mounting pieces? for instance i need to mount the abl on the left and the 5015 on the right and i can not find any mounts for the right only doubles of the left.

mirror mesh x ;)

Hello,
i printed out the holder for the 40mm fan.
Could you make the holes 2.5 mm deeper?
So you wouldn't necessarily be limited to one type of screw.

As it is now I cannot mount a 40mm fan with these screws.
The design would be more flexible concerning the choice of screws.

The bolt I want to use is one according to DIN 912.

Many thanks

if you use maybe 2 hours of your time, you will learn how to edit stl:s in Fusion 360 free version, and you will have unlimited possibities with 3D printer. And you will get 2.5mm deeper holes.

Give a man a fish and you will feed him for a day, teach a man how to fish and you will feed him for a lifetime - and so on.

Comments deleted.

I love this setup, except I had to manually cut off the "lip" and carve in some indents for it to fit my tronxy x3a. any way you could put up a variant base plate thats flat w/ the screw reliefs for tronxy x3/x3a? I cant find actual measurements right now, but there is another thingy that has it... https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2777690 i could print it and get measurements if you need em and are willing :)

TronXY X3 / X3A E3D V6 J-Head Mount with 5015 blower duct

I just printed this and installed it on my CR-10S, but I'm having an issue where I can't get the Z to go low enough. The Z carriages are bottomed out and I'm still about 1MM or so from the bed with the nozzle. I printed the 1.2 version for the E3D V6, but am wondering if I printed the wrong version, or if something is not right with my hotend?

this could be caused by many reasons including how much you tightened your hotend. the best fix for this is leave your hotend as tight as it needs to be and print out an adjustable Z-endstop

Comments deleted.

Does this support direct drive setups?

I may have missed its mention somewhere but is this able to be printed in pla and be suitable for the v6 and the volcano?

CR-10 with a BLTouch and an E3D V6. I want dual fans. What parts do I print?

I would also want to see this

Finished mounting this and my print head is hanging off the edge of the bed when home, cant seem to find anything on here to address that

You lose 1 cm of the build plate on the Y with this mount. You have to set the offset in the firmware. Then set the Y build plate to 29cm in the slicer.

any guide anywhere on how to adjust the fan wings to the appropriate height?

Hi. Will your build fit on an Ender 3 printer?

I have this installed on my Ender 3 - it works great. The E3d V6 is awesome and I've been printing with it o my Ender 3 for 6 or 7 months.
Wish I could find a direct feed V6 mount for my MP Maker Select V2 (it's a direct drive using the MK10 Hotend)

Hi. Your build is perfectly suited for the printer 3 Ender?

Hello good day! I printed the files for the hotend e3d v6 and when I used it they melted me in the heat! what am I doing wrong? Have I connected the cables wrong

I melted mine down about a month ago. In my case, one of the wires for the cooling fan broke( the 30mm fan on the front). This fan should be running all the time. If it stops then the V6 throat gets so hot it will definitely melt the parts (mine were PLA). I reprinted the melted parts using PETG.

Will fit a Geeetech A10/A20 ? Usually, most mods for Ender3 are compatible.

Will this fit Ender 3?

Small problem
I have printed 4 versions and messed with sizes but I find my new E3D Heatsink v6 does not fit the body of 1.2v, the body that attaches to the printer but i decided to print version 1 and it fit without any problems there must be a small difference in size where the heatsink fits into the body.

that section of the body, where the heat sink gets gripped, hasn't been touched. I'm not sure what would cause the difference if you're using the same settings in your slicer. were they orientated the same as well?

Hi there
Yep everything was the same - I have tried printing v1.2 body 5 times by change 1% sizes in Prusa control software and cannot get the heatsink to sit right but when I have printed v1 it slipped in great - not to worry I got it and I am busy putting it all together - thank you tho.

Nice spacer between the to 5015 found.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2527178

For Ender 3 is was to small so create one.
In Cura activate Build Plate Adhesion and choose Raft.

Anti Vibration fan spacer for RebelRousingProps CR-10 Duct

Yo dude you have fan mount only for left side the right side is missing !!! Release that part mate ........

mate read the description ;)

hi, can u please upload the mount in step oder igis? i want make a remix für vertical mounted MGN rail..

One thing I found is when you use the 40mm fan mount

1) The socket caps stick to far out and they prevent the fan from sitting flush
2) From where the studs sink in on the mount to screw into the body the 30mm screws then hit the back plate due to the mount holes being recessed.

So it would seem the thickness of the top mount needs to be increased and the hole the socket caps go into need to be deeper.

Awesome work, loving this mount!
I'd like to request a dial indicator mount, for use when setting nozzle height.
I had one for my stock setup, and it was very helpful.
It could be made as a wing mount, in place of one of the side fans, but a more convenient option would be to somehow now require the removal of any parts. I can't imagine how that would work, though. I'm not that creative. :)

Hey Chito. I want to remix the 5015 to support a 5020 fan, which is much quieter. can you provide something other than an STL for this?

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Do you have or could you make a version for the stock hotend?

Hi Chito,

Many thanks for the design.
Could you please elaborate more on the 5015+ABL not working on the left side?
It is super confusing. What's the difference between that part and the alt part? They look exactly same.

The non alt version, when printed for the left-hand side, crashes into the gantry where the X limit switch is. But works well and is a simple solution for the right side. The alt version works for left and right hand sides, it can be used on either side

Hmmm I see. So when would someone prefer the non-alt version ?
Maybe better to just remove the non-alt versions. Also maybe better to include the mirrored copy as well so that less people get confused and print the same side twice ?

Thanks for the reply !

I agree with you pkshima... they look exactly the same to me as well.

Which faceplate is needed for the volcano e3d hotend ?

It seems like my nyloc screws are a tad too thick for the hole to put them in for the side mounts

Will you be making a BLTouch & 5015 fan mount with zero Y offset? When mounted on the right of the CR-10S, it looks like there is plenty of clearance. BTW, thanks for the great models.

Its designed to print flat off the bed with no supports. Thats why it is the way it is

A 60mm Fan holder for Hotend cooling compatible to this would be very nice.
Anybody able to design one? Would be great for all Metal. High power and low Noise

Hi there, is there any hope you could do a mount like this to fit two V6 side by side? Thank you.

Chito,

I found a place to print the parts from a better material than my printer will handle until the mount and other mods are done. The only major obstacle is the absence of the right side wing among your files. Since it'll be done by a commercial shop, I cannot ask them to mirror the left wing in the slicer. They told me to send them an .stl file and refused to do anything else.

I spent a day trying to get a mirror image using Fusion 360 on top of other programs. Unfortunately, the result was completely out of specs despite my multiple attempts to fine tune the process.

How difficult is it for you to publish the right wing .stl file? Is it a lot of work?

Thank you.

Mike

Use mesh mixer to mirror the stl and then export as a new stl. https://youtu.be/t5PFTQraojc
Adding all the right-hand wings will balloon the already large file count unnecessarily

Looks much easier than all the mesh conversions I had to do. Let me try it. Thank you very much for your kind assistance.

Hi, I loved this design and printed it to install the E3Dv6 to my CR-10. Now I was wondering how did you guys managed the cables? how did you fix them so the extruder cartridge is moving freely?

I want to terminate all of the cables at the same length from the Hotend assembly and then fit an 8-Pin Molex Micro-Fit 3.0 Housing that plugs into one of the Z Box designs making the entire hotend assembly a quick plug and play module.

The only issue is making it look halfway decent. Currentlyt I just have all the wires spliced and plugged at the hotend assembly itself.

First of all, I'd like to thank Chito for the wonderful work!

I'm a newcomer to 3D printing and just ordered my first Creality CR-10S printer. I'm going to add E3D V6 with two 5015 side fans and 40mm front one right from the beginning. Can anyone print the mount for me? I'd strongly prefer polycarbonate for strength and temperature resistance (I'm planning to make an enclosure), but would be glad to hear other option if polycarb is out of question.

I live in the US (IL/WI border), and would be glad to compensate you for the work.

Thank you.

Mike

Does this Cooler also work for the Trony x5s?

I wrote this in the make I posted of this mount, but I just had to post it here in as well:

Extremely happy with this mount and cooling. I went through ~5 different cooling solutions for the stock CR-10S hotend as well as for the E3D V6. Unlike most other fang designs - the bowden connector is easily accessible if something went wrong. The entire solution is elegant and minimal, no large fan ducts to print. The dual 5015 might be overkill, but the flexibility of having an absurd amount of cooling lets me sleep easy when I know there won't be any curling that might wreck my parts. Instead of having 1 powerful and noisy 5015 I now use 2 fans that are more quiet. At 100% combined they are much quieter than a single more powerful 5015, but the amount of cooling is more than enough. At ~40% they are very quiet and most importantly way more efficient than any single 5015 fang type design I've tried.

Great design, hands down the best mounting and cooling solution I've tried yet! Thank you so much!

I printed the new version of the 5015 + BLTouch. The probe mount height still isn't ideal for me. If I mount the BLTouch on top of the mount, the nozzle crashes into the bed before the sensor triggers. If I mount below, the probe tip hangs below the bottom of the fan duct and I recently had a crash where the probe caught on the print. It would work better for me if you lowered the probe mount about 2.5mm and I mounted it on top just like the picture.

Thank you for your excellent work.

mount updated.

Comments deleted.

I just printed and tried wing with BLTouch v1.2 and it doesn't work, BLTouch is mounted 1-2 mm too high.

Hello !
I just print and install your mount ! It looks great !
I used a dial to adjust the bed on my stock version.
How can you use a dial with your mount ?
Thanks !

I have the same question. It would be awesome if there was a way to mount a dial indicator to this amazing modular system for setting the nozzle height. Having this option would be a great help in setup. Has anyone tackled adding this feature yet?

Comments deleted.

Hello, when a stock version !!?? :)

Ok, so there are some scattered comments about issues that need to be fixed. I will try to comb these comments and make a list of known/suspected issues. in 2 weeks time, I will start going through them and fixing the ones I can. fixes will be the highest priority, then new parts and lastly cosmetic changes

Please reply to this comment with an issue that you think needs to be addressed.

known issues:

  • add more depth to hole for x-carriage mount
  • add more vertical range to all wings
  • look at adding more tolerance to the fan mounting holes
  • remove redundant parts
  • investigate blower lip angle
  • BLTouch arm height

new parts

  • support for regular fans instead of blower fans
  • circular blower

low priority issues:

  • recessed screw head holes

Again, much appreciated - can't even imagine how much time you already must've put into this :)

BLTouch mount needs to be lowered by 3mm and made sturdier - the provided one does flex too much.

Thank you!

Love the design, I have a newer Ender-3 and the screws that stand out from the metal bracket (where the stock hotend bolts) are about 1mm too long, is this the case with newer CR-10 also?
It seems tough to drill away plastic in the hole because it will not be much left.
Thanks!

Can you measure how much the bolts protrude from the plate?

Saying they might be 1mm too long may or not be correct, but i also had to exert some force to push the mount over the bolts - fitting perfectly fine after that...

On the Ender-3 plate the nuts protrude 4.5mm and the recess on my printed mount is 3.7mm (some variations here due to print quality),.
I just took the Dremel and reduced the protruding nuts 1 mm and now it´s all working. I first noticed this when I moved another mount from my Ender-2 to this New Ender-3 and it didn´t sit flush with the bracket.

I dont have an ender so someone needs to give feedback

I absolutely love your design!
Especially mounting the 40mm fan on front to cool the hot-end.
My only problem is that I prefer to use a circular print cooling fan duct using a 5015 fan like this....
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1823404
.....Or this....
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2577163

Has anyone done a mod like this for your fantastic mount?
Thanks !!

Anet A8 prusa-i3 circular fan duct
by Sjouke
ANYCUBIC I3 MEGA circular fan duct + E3D_V6 mod version

Yeah, I've wanted to add this as well, but the problems is even distribution of air. These designs appear to just be a ring with holes, which may be all you need. Maybe dont really know but ideally, I would like to create something that has an equal flow of air all around the ring. so for example. if I have it connected on 1 side to 1 fan, i wouldn't want that side of the ring to have more airflow than the other side of ring etc.
Not even sure if this is an issue really because there are plenty of single fan solutions that blow from one side and work well. but I imagine this would make bridging more successful in a certain direction than the other. A dual fan solution would also solve this (just need to make sure it's not overpowering) Anyway its a lot of testing and experimenting and I don't have time to work this one out.

Thanks for the reply.
It's been tested with other popular fan ducts by Tom on his YouTube page, and it is one of the best, and I prefer it to all the others I've tested.
Well, I just need a way to mount this to your design, and thought someone might have already done it, like they have on other E3D Mount designs.
OK,
Thanks anyway, guess I'll have to find some time to do it myself.
Cheers!!

turns out this is not possible, the heatblock on the V6 leaves almost no room between it and the x-carriage. Even if i were able to squeeze a circular duct in it would be so close to the heatblock, if not even touching it, that the heat would melt it

@CHITO is this able to be printed in pla?
I can't get pet not pet-g to print on my stock .

Why its not on the middle? It's not possible to center this mounting ?
This mounting is not balanced so more pressure on the right wheel and the motor has a harder job.
Isnt it?

It was designed to have the hotend as close to the original hotend as possible. That way all the the limit switch also dont need to be adjusted otherwise the hotend origin would be off the edge

One problem I'm having is that the wing opening is too tight for my Sunon fans. Pushing the fan in with force to make the screw holes line up resulted in the wing splitting (see picture). This is the v1.1 wing printed in PETG using S3D.

Any advice on how to compensate? Can't very well scale the part or it wouldn't fit with the rest of the parts anymore.

Does anybody else think that the fan mounts might be too high for the volcano? Seems like the duct output is pointed more at the heater block than the nozzle/below the nozzle. I have the mounts adjusted to be as low as possible.

I'd really be grateful if this thing could be revised to have more range on the vertical travel adjustment of the fan mounts.

Does this work with stock part cooling fan or only 5055s?

Hello :)

Would it be possible to make an adaptation for the Touch Mi?

it's already done !
https://www.thingiverse.com/asset:105017
Check my last post ,there's some pictures

hi do you have too, the support for the magnet?
i can't find one compatible with it

CR10_Adjustable_Endstop_X_Axis + support_magnet_touch_mi
by meaceay

Addon part for this design >CR-10_HD-modular-mount-V6_wing_5015__Touch_MI.STL
You can put now the sensor "Touch_MI" on your Cr10. (www.hotends.fr)

am I missing something? Wheres the right fan shroud? I printed out the bltouch one and the a normal fan shroud not realizing that they were for the same side... I can't find one for the opposite side.

mirror it in your slicer

Nice design, printed it this afternoon.
I do have a request though, I do like when the screw heads are flush, could you please add a file for the front cover with holes for the screw head ?

Do you need to have a v6 to use this mount, i just want a dual blower and this one looks great

What is the 5015 fan & ABL for since it is not usable on the left and suggest the alt version? Why should anyone use one or another?
And, what is the fan light for? I can't even see it in the main image.

Hi @chito,

First of all thanks for sharing this awesome design with all of us!
I have it fully assembled and I would like to know if you have a youtube video about it. I would like to set the fans and ABL at the right height and setup my CR 10 the best way possible.

Thanks!!

PS* This goes to anyone else that got it installed as well.
Thanks!!!

Are there any plan to add titan extruder support for this?

Alaric323, Thanks. It's good to know that it wasn't me. I should tell you that I replaced some E3D parts, checked my wiring, etc., before I finally realized it was that simple. At least I gained some experience.

It's a great design, but I ran into a problem. The hot end heated as it normally would in terms of speed, but once the fans kicked in they were so powerful they started cooling the hot end to a point where the CR 10S E3D shut down. I should point out that I'm relatively new to printing, so I'd appreciated your comments. I turned one fan out of place, and the problem persisted, so I turned the other. The problem is gone. I'm wondering if it's best to play with fan speed, eliminating one fan, opening the outlet of the fangs horizontally to reduce the air speed, or blocking the intake or outlet of the fans. I'd be interested in your suggestions. Thanks.

The dual fans are great for bridging. You can up the fan for those sections. Still prob wont need 100% however.
I suspect another reason this error happens is because peoples heat break and heat blocks are screwed into different depths so you get the fan to nozzle distance off or not ideal. I will fix this in a later update by allowing more movement to allow the wings to come down a bit more

That sounds great, I'm sure the Jkck will also appreciate the gesture,... Thank you,

Hey Jkck, same thing happens to me with this mount. Having the fans go no higher than 25% in the slicer works for me. Any higher and it causes thermal runaway, which is when the extruder can't maintain temp.

Really wish you would make this as a Titan/V6 Direct Extruder mount... would be pretty epic

hello;
Does someone get trouble with marlin on a CR10? Since I upgrade to E3D V6, and the mount with 2 Fan 5015. I get "Thermal Runaway Error" for each print. and of course printer stop.
I've tuned my PID again and again, and get less error when I reduce fan speed...but in that case I loose print quality.
I read somewhere that the air flow for cooling filament should be under the buse, in my case it's not possible, The wing is fixed the downest possible.
Does someone get that issue and a idea ?

Hey cmalbranc,

I was getting "Thermal Runaway Error" and I found that since this setup has so much more fan power that I had to reduce the speeds. I'm using both side fans so I was able to eliminate the error by going to 50%. I'm still not sure what the "correct" speed is...

I'm not sure about Marlin, but when you change the hotend, don't you have to select or tell marlin which hotend you are using?
Or tell marlin what type of thermister you are using?

If you don't tell marlin the parts you are using, it'll not work correctly, did you edit the Firmware?

hi, thx for your help.
yes I change all parameters as requested in the documentation, and few others regarding the printer used, the material i will print, and of course the PID. I also change the Thermal_Protection_Hysterisis is order to give a better tolerance to quick temp change.
This night was better, my temp graph have stop to move up and down each minute. (before I get +10 / -10°C now I'm close to 1 or 2°C of variation)
I'm not sure this does come from the model itself, but need to tweak the PID with air flow at 100% and close to the bed. (this is where it's critical due to external condition around the thermistance)

Please make it possible to use noctua fans as well on the cooling fans while having a ezabl. Would be the best uograd ever! Really pleaseeee

Any chance you could make a laser attachment for this monster somehow? It's amazing but the laser I something I would like to add.

Hi
I printed your awesome mount and fan holders today and set about mounting it.
But the E3D mount on the carriage won't sit flush with the carriage.
Its like the holes for the "standoff nuts" for the 2 screws aren't deep enough, so the mount is tilted a bit backwards.

I noticed the same problem with my installation. It’s possible that creality changed their gantry plate dimensions a little bit?

parts have been updated to fix this, needs testing

Would you be willing to design a mount for the titan extruder, attached to the v6?

I have a Titan+Volcano direct extruder coming and I'd like to continue using your mounts. I currently use your v6 mount, dual fans + ABL alt and it works GREAT.

How do I know which fan to use on the front; 30mm or 40mm? I purchased both and the V6 comes with a 30mm so I'm confused as to if I should "upgrade" to a 40mm...

Comments deleted.

so many parts it's unclear what I need to print to install my E3D V6 Volcano, can someone list out all the parts I would need to print? Much thanks in advance...

It's a little hard to explain without grabbing a picture and drawing arrows to all the parts you need,... However, I personally just printed them all and then lay them out with my hot-end, then I pieced something together until I was happy with the feel and look.

I'd just print them all and pretend you're doing a puzzle while piecing them around the hot-end.

Once I got my new and upgraded E3D V6 hot-end working, I then went ahead and printed it all again, with the new and upgraded hot-end I installed, it printed a whole lot better.

Sorry, I can't be of any more help,... though, I do wish you luck.

I still haven't gotten my V6 set up right. Any tips? Clogged my first heatbreak with over-retraction. Can't seem to get the temps right, either. Printing eSun PLA+.

PLA is normally between 210 - 230, I personally use 214 to start and keep an eye on it and adjust accordingly.
You can try turning the speed down a little so it's not kind of rushing into the nozzle,... I suppose it all depends on which slicer you are using also, some are set differently to others. You can try starting at 210 with a speed of say, 10 Lower than it is set at now,... again, it'll be adjusted accordingly.

I will say though, once you get the V6 set up correctly, you'll notice a difference in print quality.

Comments deleted.

Will it work with an E3D V6 Lite?

They are virtually the same, Yes,... on the LiteV6 it's the heatsink centre that's shaped a little differently, and I think the Heat Break is fixed on the Lite model,... However, the top-end is the same diameter,... Plus it also works on the clones.

Thank you. I'm going to do tests. I would have liked this mod to be direct, but I'm going to try it as it does because I do not like the system that comes by default in the CR-10S at all.

Your welcome,... I'm not to keen with the CR and A30 hot-ends, I like to see whats going on when my machine is printing and the black carriage just blocks the view.

Anyway, Good Luck.

Fantastic piece of design. Works superbly on my E3D Clone. Thank you.

whats the marlin offset for bltouch on the mirror'd side as i wanted it on the right hand side not the left thanks!

Does anyone know if this will fit on the clone, GEEETech A30? It's similar framework, 3xWheels running on a 2020 crossbar, I think there are 4 x fixture Holes on the backplate to fix the hotend to.

I can't wait for my V6, I'm looking forward to fitting it,...

Anyway, If anyone knows off hand if this will fit the A30, I'd really appreciate knowing, in advance.

Need some guidance I have the CR 10 I want to get the good not knock off v6 hot end. Make this housing for it. I dont know how it wires in to the Cr-10's setup now stock fan wiring with the 5015 fans. Is there a way i could be shown this and also what 5015 fans are good to get? thanks again

Ask your technical questions in the Facebook groups. Youll get a way more responses

hi really good design easy to print...but i get question from a newbie ;-)
How to print a 5015 wing for right side? I only found file for the left side, try to mirror it without success. could you help me?

You can mirror the wings in your slicer

I have found that one 5015 wing works on either side.

Fits on my Ender 3 without problem.

No idea. But id expect creality to use the same parts and mounts across all their printers. Reduces costs and complications. So id expect it to work, one of tbe5 photos in the makes has it on a cr10 mini

Hello I have problem with BL Touch Offset X setting

BL Touch works on CR10S 330x300 fine. Marlin 1.8 Fix
Fan 5015 and Bl Touch are mounted on the left side.
Do I mount at offset BLTouch & 5015 fan mount. Offset X: (+/-) 58.565 mm / Y: -11.00 mm
Nozzle is almost on the middle of Hotbed.
Settings in Marlin for sample are unclear, I had to set everything to 0 with Offset X.

define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0 // X offset: -left + right [of the nozzle]

define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -11 // Y offset: -front + behind [the nozzle]

define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0 // Z offset: -below + above [the nozzle]

define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 70

define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 240

define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 30

define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 260

58,565 can not be correct as Marlin is not accepted with .586 also position is wrong.
What do I have to enter at offset now ????

Could you please tell me what program you use to remix? I am trying to find one to remix this mount to accommodate a nifty sidewinder.

I used fusion 360 to make this design

Thank you Chito, I will try it and hope the learning curve isn't too steep. I have your design on my Tevo Tornado with the right fan and the bltouch mount. I like the way that you fan mount and bltouch mount are adjustable. Like I said I want to mount the nifty sidewinder to your volcano mount. I have the thingiverse files for the sidewinder mount and was having trouble just finding a program that will allow me to transfer the sidewinder mounting holes in relation to the v6 onto your volcano mount.

Of course it hardly needs saying at this point, but beautiful design, and thanks for all your hard work with the multiple iterations thus far!
One issue I just encountered: The 40mm fan front plate doesn't mate up with the mount body. The upper part of the curved wings that clip onto the heatsink are a little too tall, and hit the lower edge of the body before the 2 halves can mate up. Has this been addressed already, and it just hasn't made it into the files maybe? Sorry for the terrible image, I took it real quick with my webcam. lol

In that pic the mount is upsidedown

Upside down? I don't follow. It seems to only fit one way, as shown in the photo. Can you maybe show an image of how it's supposed to look when assembled?
Oh, hang on, I think I see what you mean. I'm out of town at the moment. I'll check it out when I get home tomorrow night. Thanks!

Looks like they killed the video and the offering. Hopefully it's because they are working up an offer to keep you happy in all of this. UNSAT they contacted you after they unveiled it. They should fire whoever presented that as "their" idea, obviously don't know the 3D printing community is a tight knit group. I recognized the design immediately, as I have 3 sets deployed on my machines (3 of 22). Nice design, you deserve credit/payment from Creality if they are going to roll it into their line.

Your design is so good, Creality copied it: https://youtu.be/pDT3De8gVp4

Thanks guys, i really appreciate people reaching out. I have received a few messages from people about this. I posted on creality's video and they have contacted me. Personally I dont think its bad they are selling full kits already wired up and everything to go plug and play. Actually I think this could really help people. The price seems ok but inorder for them to sell these it needs to comply with the creative commons it is licensed under, which is attribution and non commercial. Also if they could address the issues with the clone v6 they could have a great offering on their hands.

Other people have also sold made versions of these files and they also had to make sure they complied with the CC. The attribution part is easy. The complicated part is with The non commercial bit which means that they cant sell these for profit. That is that the amount they are selling it for (or at least the part that corresponds to the mount) is only to cover the manufacturing costs. Which if this is CNCed and injection moulded would actually be very high. So I want to ensure that the price is fair.

Was about to share the same link

Love the way you integrated the fan onto the bowden holder! Any chance you could share the STEP files for the lot? I'd love to integrate this into my coreXY.

Outstanding design! The flexibility, fit, and attention to detail is amazing. I've printed out test pieces in PLA to check for fit on my Ender 3 before committing to PETG for the final prints. The only thing I can think of to add is provision for a couple of LED lights near the nozzle.Thank you for all your hard work in designing this.

There's actually a part for this already. An LED mount that attaches to the fan on the heatsink

This is neither here nor there but it seems the LED mount is intended for the 30mm fan mount only. Does not fit the 40mm, unless I'm doing it wrong. Regardless, I'm planning on putting LEDs in the left and right cooling wings.

The led mount ive created works with both the 30mm and 40mm but with the fan mounts that are part of this system.

Thanks for your reply. Not to be argumentative here but I guess I don't understand how it's suppose to work with the 40mm fan mount. It fits around the 30mm fan just fine though (see picture). Am I not doing this right?

Ah I see what youve done. I might need to add an image of this in use to the gallery to avoid confusion.
The horseshoe part goes around the hotend not the fan. and the tabs that protrude up have 2 channels where the bottom screws holding the fan in also hold on to the LED mount. Note that the led mount shouldnt go in-between the fan and the fan mount but on the outside of the fan where the head of the screws are. Hope the crude image i made helps (only had access to phone)

Well that explains a lot! I thought those slots were for 3mm LEDs. I have a bunch of 3mm and 5mm LEDs so I think I'll just come up with something that will allow me to use those.

it was designed with LED strips in mind as they are pretty much plug and play, cheap and low profile. the bulb types might hit prints as the hot end moves over the bed

Hi,

Does the LED mount with with 40mm fan exclusively or can it work with the 30mm stock V6 one?

Thanks,

I haven't tried it with the stock mount. It will work with the mounts created im this system

Work it with default CR-10 extruder?

Nope. Its a V6 and/or volcano mount

I have printed the BLTouch & 5015 fan mount, using V6+Volcano clone. Problem is if i screw my bltouch clone on top, nozzle hit the bed.
If i screw it down the bltouch stay at same height as the nozzle when retracted. Anyone had this problem? I tried to ajust fan mount height, but if i raize it, the fan will blow the heatblock

I fixed the stl and lower the bltouch mount about 3mm, that fix my problem and now i can ajust bltouch with washers, but that is the perfect spot for me, if anyone facing same problem i have attached the stl

I see, thanks for letting me know. I dont actually have a BLtouch so i had to wing this one. Ill make your suggested changes in the next update.

Hey chito,

I can confirm the issue with the provided wing and BLTouch mount.

I haven’t tried OPs modified STL yet, but plan on doing so if you don’t provide an updated version.

If you do an updated version, I want to add that the mount isn’t sturdy enough, there is quite some flex (using ABS) so maybe you could reinforce the mount somehow...

Just let me say clearly that all your work is really appreciated, even if you don’t get around it - thank you!

PS: maybe you want to add a short comment on the main page about that situation, so others don’t fall into the same trap :)

I can confirm that I also have this problem. I trimmed the wing to get the probe ~2 mm lower and that fixed it. It seems that the probe needs to be 2-3 mm lower. Sn4k3's STL has some kind of meshing problem, my slicer displays the main body and the probe's mount as two different parts. I'll try to fix it and post it if I succeed.

Thank you for your great work!

5015 right side is missing ? i found in archive only left side mounts

You mirror them for the other side

Can this mount be printed in pla or do I have to use petg?

It can be printed in what ever you want. Pla is plenty strong but might warp at high temps. This is even more likely if you have your cr10 in an enclosure. Use petg if you can. Even better there are people selling aluminium versions

Hi,
Thanks for your designs.
I have two questions.

  1. Can you please tell me whether your design is compatible with micro swiss all metal hot end with EZABL sensor?
  2. Can your design be used on a Tevo Tornado EZABL sensor?

Karthik

1) no its made for the e3d hotends
2) no idea, dont have a tevo but from pics it looks like it might. I would ask on the Facebook groups just to make sure

I 've same issue with fan at 100%.

I use silicon sock but is the same.

I have to set gradual fan from 10% to 50% max...

Have u fixed this issue? Some people have it and others dont.ensure that your fan wings are as far down as they can go but also make sure the heat break isnt so screwed in that the nozzle cant get to the bed

Yes, fixed!
I was using flat e3dv6 nozzle. Using original Mk8 nozzle all goes right!

Everything went together nicely. I'm very happy with how solid it all is when fully assembled.
I'm using the v6 hotend with twin 5015's and ABL, and so far the fan that came with the hotend, which I believe is a 30mm.
This is on a CR10 S5
Thanks for the design.

Can this work with a Ender-3 without modification?

No idea. I dont have an Ender 3. If you findout out please let me know so i can update the details and share your results

Very nice design, and thanks for sharing it. I am having a little bit of a challenge tightening the front (fan mount), which requires 30mm. Even with the lock nuts in the main holder, it seems like there is still a little play in it- no matter what I do it just doesn't get completely snug.

The fan doesnt attach with a bolt or lock nuts. Youre meant to use the screws that came with it. If you dont have it they are self tapping screws

Sorry just to clarify I am talking about the mount that closes onto the hot end, which uses m3 30 bolts and has lock nuts, not the fan.

Try wedging a flat end screw driver or something in the hole with the locknut to prevent the locknut from just spining. Then tighten

I was having this issue, too. I ended up heating the holes and setting the nuts into the moldable plastic. Then I reprinted the mount and installed M3 threaded inserts; much better.

Love your design :) was however wondering if I could either request a mod alt request a step file of fan shroud with bl-touch mount?
Reason: I would like to be able to adjust the height of the sensor separately from the shroud :)

You can adjust the height of the BLtouch using washers

Great Design !!! I love it !
But I am having issue with the BLtouch mount . If I lower the fans the BLTouch will be at the same height as the hotend. if install the Bltouch above the mount it will not reach the bed. What Am I doing wrong ?

Thanks for the design.

Has anyone done this for a printer Anet E10?

What is the little arm on the top for?

That is what it was for. Why was this removed in the updated version? This is a very well thought out design, with the glaring flaw of it looking very uninspired with no effort put into how to not make it look ugly on your CR10.

Is there anything similar to this that uses the default hot end? I need to upgrade to new blower fans because the factory one does not work

Look at models this was remixed from. One of them is for the original hotend that attaches dual 5015 blowers. You can even attach at hotend fan mount

Can't believe I missed that! Thanks for pointing it out to me!

Hello Chito,
It's a very nice design.
thanks

To wire in two blower motors do I just solder both of them onto the one existing fan wire?

Yes, sir.
What I did was just take the original fans positive and negative wires and split each of them into two, effectively creating a Y harness. Crimp or solder the original positive to the positive of both the new blower fans, and the original negative to the negative of both the new blower fans.
It's incredible how much air two 50mm blowers create!

I like the concept and installation was ok. I do however have some design tips for you.
The inductive sensor mount "wing" is a bit flimsy to my tastes and it does in no way have to be as they are just as capable of gripping a much thicker holder. I suggest doubling or tripling the thickness of the "ring" to make it more rigid.

The e3d logos did not come out well for me in CPE material, i put logos on my print regularly and it really looks best on vertical surfaces and you need no more than 0.2-0.6 mm depth for them to be clearly visible and print much better.

Would it be possible for you to remove the gap at the bottom of the 40mm fan mount on the V6? The fan blows onto my heat block, causing heating issues.

I'm also getting heater issues with the fan nozzles set as low as possible. It's dropping my temps like crazy.. triggering thermal runaway

Really nice design. I have it all mounted on my CR10S5.. but now I need a firmware.. any pointers on where to find one??

hi people ,
does the fan blower 40 mm fits for e3d v6 extruder or only on the volcano? i see that the heights are differents.

best regards

Great job Chito, very impressive design and build. I'm looking at setting this up on CR-10S and would appreciate a recommendation on the fans to use, ideally giving the ability to adjust fan speed?

I have one more request. How about an addition to move the extruder over and make it a direct drive with the E3D V6?

I have just mashed one, testing it out today and will post when all issues have been ironed out.

is there any decent mod to the fan wings? its blowing straight on the nozzle for me :/

There are a lot of things I like about this design, but there is one thing I don't like. I have EZABL and this design puts the probe +63mm from the nozzle on the X, and 11.5 in front on the Y. And I thought 48mm was a long way with my old fang. :-) I don't really see a way around that though. Overall, a very good design. Thanks.

Does all this extra weight have any affect on print quality??

Gday Mr Chito,
First of all top job on the mount - its undeniable one of, if not the best mount available. I was also able to acquire a cnc aluminium heavy duty base.
Anyho
my question to you is - are you able to make work a bracket for the Laser upgrade module that fits with the rest of the heavy duty empire?
see CR-10 laser upgrade below:
http://standardprintco.com/combined/cr-10lasermodule

This would be much appreciated. Keep me posted!

I’m also interested in this and I guess many others as well!

hi guys
sorry to ask, but i have printed
this awesome mount several times
thank you chito for this great work
but when i try to install an og or a clone e3d
the nozzle is really far away from the bed compared to the stock nozzle
i had to install 2 nuts 1 under and 1 above the springs
to get it higher
am i doing something wrong?
does anyone have the same issues?
would it be possible to have the saame mount
for the stock extruder?
thank u guys :)

you need to adjust the z stop so that it doesn't 0 out so soon.

Something like this
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2456687

Creality CR-10 Adjustable Z-Stop
by joey99

hi neoc2003
thank you for your reply
i installed a z endstop adjuster
but it was on its limit
the problem is the e3d seems to be quite shorter mounted
so mostly i have to install spacers to raise the bed, otherwise the nozzle
is way too far from the bed
i must do something very wrong , nobody else has complained about
to be honest i like the stock hotend, so i drilled some holes to fit the stock
to the modular, but as you know, its never precise enough

Just for reference to those who use marlin. Marlin does not do floating points for probe offsets so when setting your probe offset and if your using a mount for instance BLtouch which has depending on side of the hotend an offset of +- 33.265mm. In this case you can either enter 33 or round up to 34 otherwise your compiling will error out. This is a negligible amount so don't worry about it.

Hey, I'd love to use my E3D V6 with a direct drive set-up (was using a makeshift direct drive set-up using the stock parts on a 3D printed plate before I switched), but using the stock extruder - would you be willing to add a STEP file of the main mounting bracket to remix this new part off? I'd like to keep it compatible with all the other parts that you've already made, to give people the option for a direct drive set-up without having to buy a (let's face it, not cheap) Titan extruder or without having to sacrifice the EZABL/fan mounts/...

I've just mounted thee fang on my CR-10S and it works like a charms, but I have an issue with the fans (obviously not depending from the fang) and I'd like to see if someone could help me. The problem is that the fans works only if I choose 100% of power, if I choose a lower percentage they make a strange noise and the fans don't spin at all... I've connected them in parallel each other and connected to the two cables from the original fan... are the models of the fans I've chose wich don't support pwm or all this kind of fans don't? In case wich model should I use? 100% of power produces too much air and are too noisy... someone could help me? Thanks

Which fang did you print? I printed this one https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2606026 and it says in the description "Note: There is a common 'HK Fan' available everywhere that does not like anything less than 12vdc. This is not good if you plan to run your fan at speeds lower than 100% as the HK Fan will stall if you try to run it at lower speeds." This might be your issues if you're using one of these blower style fans.

CR-10 High Clearance Fang Mod for 5015 Fans

Having just had my brand new Creality CR-10S HotEnd cooling fan bearing fall apart after the second print, I just wanted to thank you for your hard work.
You allowed me to fit a spare E3D V6 and fans that I had to hand, and carry on printing.
Best Wishes,
Susi
(rigid.ink)

Hello!
Will this part: CR-10_HD-modular-mount-V6_wing_5015_v1.1 fit any 5015 fan? I just can't find one layer fan that works well with my very generic printer :(

Hi Chito,

May you upgrade CR-10_HD-modular-mount-V6-wing__BLTouch.stl to a more thicker support ?
At 100% infill PETG, it seems to vibrate and to bend easily.

I just posted a tutorial for installing a BLTouch or 3D-Touch with your thing
https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/creality-cr-10/forums/general/topic:27243

Do you have any recommendations for a decent 5015 fan that is quiet? Will be using only one fan with an ezabl sensor. So a fan that is quiet but still making enaugh cooling.

Buy a Nidec D05F-24PH 03B FH6-1488
Ultra quiet and blow enough for PETG filament

Comments deleted.

Does this design offset the nozzle from the original cr10 mount? Do i need marlin to fix?

Only slightly offsets the nozzle, tried to keep it as close to the original as possible.the issue seems to be worse for some people more than others. Usually the issue can be fixed by printing adjustable limit switch mounts. You don't need to edit the firmware for the nozzle position. You will however, have to edit the firmware for the V6 as it uses different heating setting

I've bought a laser engraving head from Creality. I'm in a struggle finding a good place (or a way) to mount it. I'm thinking of either make it a module for one of the sides, (but then loosing one fan) or some kind of fast clip system to easy switch between the hotend and the laser. A third option could be some strap on thing just for the laser engraving occasions.

I'd love such capabilities on the Heavy Duty mount. If it seems interesting, I'm willing to cooperate develop such thing. :-)

One option could be to combine your design with this:
CR10 Quick Release for Hot End and Laser Engraver found on #Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2676882

CR10 Quick Release for Hot End and Laser Engraver

I've downloaded the latest .zip for this part, however it appears to be missing the 5010 wing for the right hand side. Otherwise this part is amazing, thanks so much for sharing!! :-)

I had the same problem, he mentions in the instructions to mirror the left hand side part in your slicer

Good morning, I like so much the design of that fan duct! I have the stock hot end with BLTouch, is this fan duct suitable for the stock hot end?
Thanks and regards

Hello!

Thanks for this awesome mount!

Just wondering, what's this part for?

to mount LEDs, it attaches to the front of the heat sink fan

Hi! Do you use this personally? If so, could you please post a picture how it is attached? And what sort of LED light are used to fit this bracket? Thanks!

Thank you! Then it will be used when I upgrade my printer with a fancy LED light system
:-)

Is it possible to use 40mm fans on the wings with ABL sensor instead of the 5015s? They're really noisy fans.

I have a problem with its design, I use the original bltouch with the original v6 e3d, but the bltouch is very fair and often hits the hotend before the v6, can you solve this by lowering a few millimeters the bltouch in the design? I am using the 5015 with bltouch

use washers to adjust the height of the blTouch

Great design, just got it printed up and mounted my E3D V6 to my CR-10S. It works great however it appears that the nozzle of the hot end is now about 8mm-10mm farther towards the front of the machine. when the unit goes to home the nozzle is now just off the print bed. did I do something wrong or is this a known issue?

Its an issue for some and not an issue for others. You can solve this by adjusting the Y-limit switch or using a adjustable mount for your Y limit switch

Love this design, finally got everything printed and realized there are no file downloads for the right mount fan duct

from the description:
"NOTE: To print a wing for the other side simply mirror the part in your slicer."

LOL i read the description like 8 times and somehow glossed over that every time.

Thanks!

Love this modular design. Would it be possible to upload a step file of the V6 body? I would love to adapt this to my printer but the back has a hook on it that will keep me from being able to mount.

@chito,
Hello, many users "including me" of the Facebook group Creality CR-10 3d Printer User Group complain about the difficulty of bringing ventilation to 100% and even less ...
The problem is due to the shape of your wings, because, throw the air on the nozzle lowered so the temperature! The wings must carry the air, only to the piece that is under the nozzle ...
You can change the inclination of the wings a little, so that they stop hitting the nozzle ..?
Thank you

As you can see from the attached image the fan doesn't blow air on the nozzle. This issue was addressed in one of the last updates. If you have an e3D heat block then use the silicone sock, that's what it's for. If you're still getting an error I suspect the error your getting is from air bouncing off the print or bed. Try turning down your fan speeds. are you using a volcano by any chance?

I have the same issue, i resorted to not use part cooling for the time being. I am using a volcano and a sock on it. I have tried the wing at multiple heights and even at 50% fan speed it still cools the nozzle and the heater cartridge cannot keep up.

Hello, thank you for reply.
Unfortunately I have to disassociate from your reply, as obviously I use the silicone protection and the problem is not a rebound of air from the bed ...
If I raise the hot end, at 30mm and I bring the fan to 100%, I feel the air hit the nozzle, in fact the temperature drops. I have the last wings you produced, the ones with the solution to the problem and the BLTOUCH, as you can see from the picture ...
I think you should lower the airflow a little more, or make a curved cut, on the part nearer to the bed, so that the excess air comes out underneath, directly on the bed and not on the nozzle ...
I have done many tests in various heights and the result are same, for me the cause are the wings...
I do not use vulcano!
Can you try what I ask you ..?

Where did you get the STL for the bar that goes between the fans?

What's the offset for the 5015 and bltouch wing?

Sorry mate, Ill add the details below on the description

blTouch only wing
X: (+/-) 33.265 mm
Y: -1.00 mm

blTouch with Fan
X: (+/-) 58.565 mm
Y: -11.00 mm

On the right side, 3D-Touch (BLTouch) with fan & E3DV6 Volcano:
X: 61 mm (right)
Y: 2 mm (front)

For those of you running a dual-fan, do you run an extra wire into the control box to power the fan, or split it off of the existing part cooling fan?

Split it off the existing one.

So the left mount EZABL only wing was actually identical, regardless of being a few mm's higher, not sure why I wasn't getting that at first, sorry lol. Again this mount is absolutely awesome. Nice job.

My questions are, and I hope someone who knows the answers see this, is there anything I need to do?

It appears as though the mount keeps the new v6 hotend in almost the exact same spot, though I don't know this for sure. Do I need to change any settings in the firmware before 3D printing something? You also said that we will need to level the bed again, how does that work with the EZABL and hard mounts, I probably don't need to then right? I went through and adjusted my EZABL to be 2mm higher than the tip of the hotend. Is the V6 in the exact same spot on the X and Y?

Thanks!

So to answer my own question for anyone who also might wonder the same thing, I didn’t have to do anything with firmware. I just did a test print and it printed flawlessly besides a corner lifting which wasn’t the fault of this mount or anything. Awesome mount man. Thank you

if possible share this set of SolidWorks drawing files?

I am adapting for the MGN9 linear rail

For MGN12, look at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2807712

@chito, may you design a X carriage for MGN12 (H) linear guide positionning horizontally or vertically ? So, that the existing mount CR-10_HD-modular-mount-V6-body__x-carriage.stl with clamps will fit to

MGN12 CR-10 Heavy Remix for BLV MOD
Comments deleted.

The mount cover 40mm fan doesn't fit together with my e3d v6 and the mount body v1. The tops of the fan mount cover's two snap ons hit the bottom of the mount body v1. If that makes sense. I think i can just file them down a little tiny bit to get it to fit, just wanted to give a heads up.

Thanks for this though, super cool mount man.

I am having the same issue..

I took the cutting pliers and snipped off like an 1/8'' of an inch off the top of each of the parts that snap onto the E3D v6, and it went right on no problem. Hope this helps! :)

You have a bracket for a BL Touch sensor but I thought the only the way to add ABL to the Cr-10 was with the EZABL kit. Is there another way to add it that's cheaper?

Replace the crappy melzi board with a ramps board. Its cheap and gives you more options.

I literally just got this working today. working on printing a mount right now to get it finalized.

Firmware I used is here: http://jonathanlundstrom.me/download/237/
This firmware uses the display beeper/buzzer pin to control to bltouch servo. I wasn't able to compile it without disabling sdcard support because lack of memory. The beeper wire is the brown wire on the display connector, clip it off and wire an extension to the bltouch orange wire. The brown/GND and red/5V are connected to the respective pins on this picture: https://cdn.instructables.com/F06/XH0O/J0MOS2VC/F06XH0OJ0MOS2VC.MEDIUM.jpg

The remaining 2 pin connector is connected to the Z limit connector, instead of the Z switch. Use a volt meter to check polarity (not sure if it matters, but doesn't hurt to get it right)

What are the offsets for the 5015Fan+BL-Touch mount ?

It's in the description

I mounted and mesured, it's approximately 60mm to the left of the nozzle, and 9-9.5 mm in front of the nozzle.

New question :)
where is the .stl for fan on the right side?

You mirror the left side one in your slicer. :)

@chito - any way to get https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2319993 to work with this? As best I can tell, it might be a direct drop in, other than the fact that the fan ducts may need to be extended downward. Any chance of a remix that includes the precision piezo mount as an option? Also, tip heading your way as this has been a very useful mount to me so far, thank you!

Precision Piezo - Piezo20 Hotend Z Probe

No plans to do so, its hard to create something for I don't own myself. First saw this a few months back and decided not to get it since the BLTouch does the same thing and doesn't require the hotend to be floating. didnt like the idea of the mount moving around

Is it just me or is the right wing not found within these files?

You simply have to mirror the other wing in your slicer.

You flip the left one

Hi Chito, thanks for making this!! I'm having just one small problem. I printed the "Update 12" for use with VOLCANO, 5015 fan and ABL, but I noticed the fan duct blows directly at the nozzle. :( Now if I use the part cooling fan, it causes the nozzle temp to quickly drop and Marlin trips "THERMAL RUNAWAY" error because the nozzle is being cooled so quickly. Problem verified to be the fan duct positioning, as no error and temperature drop with part cooling fan off. Current design of the wing cannot be positioned any lower, so I put a small wedge between the body and wing.. Anyone else have this problem and any design fix available for the 5015 fan / ABL wing?

Thanks!

I see. hmm the V6 works fine, maybe the volcano mount is a bit off... hmmm... ill need to investigate this. would be cool if anyone with a volcano mount could let me know if they are having this issue.

Ps is there a silicone sleeve for the volcano?

I also have this issue. with the latest wings, radial fan on each side. No sock on the E3D Volcano (yet, here it two days)
This is what I did for a temp fix:
Turned on the part fans: M106
Ran PID Tuning 10 ttimes for 5 degrees over what the nozzle was going to run at: M303 E0 S200 C10
Took the resulting k values and saved them in the EEPROM
M301 P29.75 I2.16 D102.36 (your values may be different)
M500 (to save)

Then sliced with the part fans limited to a max of 50% (60 for bridging)

Then I ran a stringing test and if completed without a thermal runaway with only light stringing.

I will re-do this with the socks on, and setting the part fan back to normal later this week.

-update:
Larger print failed after about 3 MM of Z.

Same problem here: If i disable cooling, all is well, if i put cooling to 50%, the print fails after a while. The fillament doesnt want to go though the extruder anymore, eventough the measured temperature is still around 220.

I think the nozzle or heatblock is cooling down too much.

If i use a lower fan speed it prints correctly, but then there is not enough cooling, the print stays too flexible.

I think i need a sleeve?

Comments deleted.

E3D does make a Silicone sleeve for the Volcano, but I just don't have it. ( https://e3d-online.com/volcano-socks ) I have spare V6 block and silicone sleeve, but just no sleeve for the Volcano. A sleeve on the volcano would definitely help to insulate the block / nozzle and keep temps more stable, but I still think the fan duct nozzle is pointing too high for volcano setup. It's probably optimal for V6, but for Volcano the part cooling fan duct should angle slightly further down IMO to avoid Thermal Runaway problem..

Ultimately I'd prefer to use the Volcano over V6 for the obvious thermal performance benefits. If you need any more pics or specific measurements, please let me know. I've been using your Update 12 mount setup as pictured in my previous post for about a week now, just with no part cooling fan for now..

I'd love to hear from anyone else using this mount with a Volcano setup and if experiencing the same issue due to angle of part cooling fan...

Comments deleted.

Does anyone happen to have a picture with BLTouch?
I don't understand how it should be: (

theres a picture in the gallery

So, I did the mod, and it worked for two prints. Then on my first big print, within 45 its starts to underextrude, and then it jams. Thought I had a lemon e3d, but I tried a second one and it still happened. Help?

chances are your firmware setting are not correct. You need to update them for the V6. go on the facebook groups, someone will be able to help you debug it

I know its a big ask but do you think it would be possible to make this compatible with https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2319993?

I've tried it myself but my knowledge is limited with 3d design.

It basically adds bed levelling via the nozzle, its a superb idea that im excited to try out.

Precision Piezo - Piezo20 Hotend Z Probe

Oops, I missed this post when I asked for the same thing a few moments ago.. =)

Can you please share the step files for all parts?

That would be an amazing contribution back to the community.. @chito, I assume that is way too much to ask? =)

everything is open source. But losing control of a design is not usually a good thing. people create all sorts of Frankenstein parts lol. and sure that's cool but it also makes things confusing to anyone new who is looking for something that works. there might be 50 different versions of the mount that work differently but are similar... I'd rather keep everything as part of 1 system where everything is compatible, that's why I'm reluctant to distribute the step files. The only step file available is for the wing so anyone can make their own attachment

I understand what you are saying. Just have to tell you that I really appreciate your work. Very nice design.
I was looking to model a mounting bracket that will help me attach some part I am designing to your system.
I was only looking to get the dimensions of the parts and build on top of your system.
It is something for my own use and I was not going to publish anything that will get other users confused.
If considering this, you will agree to help me by providing a format that can be used in SolidWorks, I will be forever in your debt.

Thank you.

There's a STEP file of a template part so people can create any attachment for this mount. If you want to create your own mount based on this one feel free to remix it, if you want to create something totally new there are STEP files of the x carriage in the Facebook cr-10 groups. One of which is one I created

Hi chito, I was also looking for a step file of the mount and understand not wanting to share it. How do other people do remixes? My problem is I'm trying to mount a Mosquito Magnum using the E3d grove mount. The Mosquito is shorter than the E3d and I can't get the nozzle to hit the bed. It physically does not go low enough, it's not the limit switch. Having the same trouble with Petsfang. I can try rigging it in other ways but would like a cleaner solution. I don't think I'm good enough with Fusion to start from scratch yet and using yours would probably be a lot quicker. This is the best design out there and I appreciate your hard work. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Understood... I'm just learning the modeling aspect and so far have only really learned that "STLs are frustrating to work with in Fusion360". ... that and a cadmouse is awesome. I like your system and have 2 things currently in mind as potential modifications... piezo support in some form (although your comment about the floating head make me ponder more), and looking at airflow options that encompass the entire head.. a tubed ring w/ directional holes for the air... One of those could be done with the step file you've provided so far (Thank you). Definitely appreciate the responses and contributions (Makebot should be sending you some donation bits.. unsure how that works...).

What would I do for the twin fans in terms of wiring? Do I splice the stock wires into two separate wire sets for each fan?

Alright, just checking, thank you!

Great work!
May you can explain how to connect the LED holder?
Thanks in advance!

It attaches to the front side of the fan that is used to cool the heat sink, will work with a 40mm or 30mm fan

Thanks! I just found out when I printed it

What M3 nyloc nuts did you use? Mine are 5.5mm wide across the flats, and they don't drop into the slots on the Volcano body because the slots appear to be 5mm on mine. Are the slots supposed to be 5.5mm wide, or did you find 5mm wide nyloc nuts somewhere?

Having same problem. Tried to heat set mine but may have ruined the entire mount :(

that was a fun process getting them in there!! :) I think I had to file a tad to make them work and then slowly pressed them in, so I didn't go too far. Just measured mine are also 5.5mm.. And yes it's tight... Clean it out a bit and then start pushing, but put the screw in the hole so you can't accidentally push the nut too far...

Do you have the source files for the modular mount for v6 volcano?:)

I think the cooling blowers are still not aimed ideally; attached is a graph from Repetier server where I've been printing at 245C for a few hours; I have 2 5015 blowers mounted, but only had 1 connected at the start of this print because the E3Dv6 seemed to be taking it's time getting to temperature; my fans are also configured to run at 5pct, and I have them mounted at their lowest possible position.

In the picture, starting between 2:55 and 2:56, I plugged the second fan in. The background color is effectively the duty cycle of the energy required to keep the temperature at the desired temp. There is a marked increase in the duty cycle as a result of adding the second fan, which indicates that the wing cooling is being directed towards the hot end, at least in part.

My blower "sides" were printed from a download of these STLs on 11/27, so I believe I have the latest (v1.1).

do you think this accounts for air flow that is bouncing off the print or off the bed. alot of that will hit the hotend no matter what the direction of the duct

Ok - updated picture attached.

Gantry is about 275mm up off the bed, no part is in place, warmup was done from "cold". Once the temp was stable at 245C, I turned the fans to 100%, cycled them off, then back on. This was shortly after a PID (8 cycles) to 245C to ensure the head was as happy as it could be. The system can "catch back up", at 245C at least, but the fans definitely have a reasonably large impact on the heater. I'm wondering if taking a queue from airfoils wouldn't work to basically "warp" the airflow out of the exhaust ports in a manner that would avoid the head and hit the part.. but I'm clueless in airfoil design. =)... Regardless, thank you for your work on this; it worked out very well so far. I did have an issue with the nylock bolts in the main bracket -- they didn't QUITE fit without a little filing first. I currently have mine in PLA with the intention of reprinting them in NylonX later -- going to have to work on the tolerances because NylonX will likely be much harder to open up manually.

With the silicon boot on the heater bloc, the fans at 100% did not affect the temperature at all. Your heater bloc should always be lagged no matter what part cooling system you use. Even with the fans aiming away from the heater bloc, the movement of air they generate will inevitably cause disruption to the heater bloc temperatures if you don't lag it.
I tried with and without a silicon sock, Without, the bloc lost 10C in about 5 seconds and continued to lose temperature all the way down to well below the printing temp of the filament. With, the bloc remained at the chosen temperature.

That's a good question; In this case, it isn't the bed as I'm about 300mm up in the print. The print itself is in vase mode, so it has external surface area, but the internal area is just a "Capture point" for air and not a reflection point... I tried to see if I could use "smoke" from my vape to look at the air currents to answer that question, but without a high speed camera, I don't think I can reliably answer that. When this print is finished, I need to do a couple of PID tunes on my head anyway, so I'll move the gantry to ~300mm and see what it looks like with/without the fans and update. That should eliminate bed and print bounce.

Try using a bowl of water with the unheated nozzle just above the surface, then turn on the fans slightly and see where the air hits. I think ideally the flow would hit directly under the tip with no upward reflections. Granted, air flow from two directions colliding in the middle has to go somewhere, so forward, backward, and up (toward the nozzle) would make sense. Hopefully more forward and backward given the downward angle of the source flow.

Yeah, I'm going to have to do something to adjust the airflow it seems; it's too good! :-) Marlin and E3Dv6 appear to get upset if I'm trying to get the head to temp. and the fans are running; I think the PID loop ultimately gives up and the firmware crashes/resets (not quite sure how to troubleshoot what appears to be a watchdog-type reset in this yet...). If I turn the fans off to get to temp first then spin them up, things appear to be fine.

It's been a while since I looked @ the Marlin code to try to figure out why I was getting reset/shutdowns but I'm pretty sure it was the thermal protection code that is supposed to catch either the thermistor coming loose or going bad to prevent possible fires. I think you need to increase the temp range or increase the time so it doesn't trigger.

I'm not an expert in anyway but have you done PID tuning and set the Kp, Ki and Kd values in the firmware for the E3Dv6?

Yup, PID tuned to 250C, 10 times, about half a mm off the bed to ensure I'd get reflective air, fans at 100%... no problem at all. The head is covered in silicone as someone else suggested, but I don't have any kapton tape around. For now, the fix was simply to use a heat gun to slightly change the airflow. In effect, I "squished" the airflow by taking the top of the exhaust vent and compressing it slightly while simultaneously taking the bottom of the exhaust vent and rolling it down a tad. That fixed the immediate problem I was having.

A longer term fix would be to tune the tolerance of in the firmware of the thermal protection. When the fans kick on, there is a ~7-9 degree C drop and the recovery time due to the PID loop trying to not be overly aggressive on correction is greater than the temperature variance trigger... resulting in a thermal protection shutdown. So yes, as you say, increasing the temp range or watchdog timer would likely fix it also.

For the moment, I'm running with one fan, hand adjusted on the airflow side using the heatgun and only not running two because a PETG print caused my other fan mount to warp (I'd originally printed it in PLA with the intention of reprinting later with higher temp tolerance materials). Thank you all for the help.

silicone cover for the hot end, even wrapping it in a handful of layers of kapton tape helps insulate the hotend from draft, i have mine wrapped with fiberglass mesh and kapton tape and there was an immediate change to heating time and temp fluctuation during printing.... no matter part cooling fan speed.....

I ended up resolving this by modifying Marlin to be slightly more tolerant of temperature fluctuations in my setup. Has been working great for the last few weeks now.

Do you have any plans to make modules for blowers larger than 5015?

nope, 5015 is plenty strong enough. with 2 of them, it can even be too strong and cool the hotend unintentionally

Can you provide a second V6 mount for the left side and maybe adjust the entire mount down about a millimeter? My adjustment screws are completely loose and it is not close enough for a good first layer.

I don't understand the issue you're having. but I think you may need to adjust your z-limiter

The Z is as low as it physically can go. Without notching the X-axis carriers for physical clearance, there is no further adjustment to be had. The nozzle sits too high with the bed all the way up.

You're changing the hotend, so it's not the same size as the stock one. so you'll have to adjust your machine and thats normal. Another problem is that peoples beds are levelled differently. So changing the mount might help you but they stuff up other people. the standard solution is to print an adjustable z-limit switch mount. Join any of the Cr-10 facbook groups and you can post any issues there. someone is bound to help you out

No, you're not understanding what he's saying, I'm getting the same issue. When using this mount, the nozzle tip sits higher than the original did, such that the bed has to come up higher. The bed can only come up so high though, as the springs are only so long. The only other option is to bring the z axis down, but what he's saying is that the plate assembly that holds the x axis arm onto the z axis lead screw hits the yellow stepper motor retaining part, so it can only go so low. The tolerance between the bed being able to be adjusted up and the z axis being able to be adjusted down is very small. Because there is very little tension on the springs due to the bed having to be so high, it's difficult to maintain proper level. The issue with this mount is that it clips over the x axis bracket but doesn't mount the hot end low enough.

What did you do as a solution for this?

Changed out springs for brass standoffs and doubled up on mirrors sitting on the bed.

print an adjustable z endstop mount

Has anyone made a fan duct for the other side of the extruder?

From the instructions on the details page: "NOTE: To print a wing for the other side simply mirror the part in your slicer."

Im Still new to 3D Printing thank you...

welcome. its a lot of fun :)
look up how to mirror file in your slicer of choice

Hi Chito and everyone, can i print this with pla to print pla? If not, how about the strong and flexible material from shapeways? If not, what material do you recommend from shapeways?

I printed it in PLA and used that to print one in PETG @260'C. I think it'd be fine since there is a lot of cooling between the heater block and the attachment ring.

PLA is fine unless you are going to have your cr-10 in an enclosure.

Comments deleted.

Hi all 3d printer !
Updated my CR-10S S5 to Bltouch and Keenovo Silicone Heater CR-10S S5.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bp79Ks9agYk&feature=youtu.be
Thermal camera picture over Keenovo bed in zip file.
Bltouch, Wow, 0.001 ~ 0.05mm and works well with Ac bed.
In Bltouch CR-10S S5 Wiring, firmware mm.zip are everything you need if you want to try, except one Bltouch ;-)
Works very good.

In Marlin setup for bltouch, bedsize mm,zip
If you want to try !

Here are the most important changes in Marlin firmware Configuration.h you can do, needed for bltouch as well as set the size of your bed. There is much more to focus on but a good start that works, Bjax

Has anyone made a dial indicator mount for this system yet?

Figured I'd ask before doing my own.

Hi chito,

Is it possible to use regular M3 nuts with thread lock in lieu of M3 Nyloc/Nylon ones?

sure I don't see why not, give it a try. but it might be hard to undo if you need to swap something out.

Comments deleted.

I have searched like two weeks to find out how to connect the BLTouch to the cr10s board and found out myself last night...that probably will help a lot of people. Thanks a lot! Thumbs up

Where is the file for the bltouch?

I got problem with your last upgrade: NEW PART: 5015 fan mount with BLTouch (updated with fix 6th nov)
I made Mount body, 40mm heatsink fan mount, 5015 fan mount, 5015 fan mount with BLTouch.
Know the problem is, if I install the BLTOUCH up the 5015 fan mount with BLTouch it is upper then the nozzle, if I install the BLTOUCH down the 5015 fan mount with BLTouch, it is lower then the nozzle...
I use the last BLTOUCH smart version "genuine", the pin of this sensor in longer then the old version...
Solutions for this problem???
tks

the best solution would be to make the BLTouch part of the mount adjustable somehow. I'll try to come up with a solution soon

hi again, short question why are you saying not to use the ABL on left side....just did and trying to make the configs right now, but why not to use on the left side?

the original version hits the gantry and doesnt let the x axis limit switch make contact. theres another version that works better on the left side. both versions work fine on the righthand side

mine is hitting..witch is the one that does not hit?

CR-10_HD-modular-mount-V6_wing_5015__ABL-alt_v1.1.stl
same part as the other one but this alternative version fixes the issue when you want to mount the ABL on the left. Of course if mounted on right any version of the mount works. no matter which version of the mount you use, youll have to edit the firmware. Offset details are in the description. if you use Tims version of the firmware he has added support for the origianl version on the right i think

Fitting it on the left allows for more coverage of the bed surface during ABL due to the x-carriage having extra runout at the right but none on the left.

This is exactly what I was looking for! Is there anyone who has made a side out for the OEM blower fan? That is the only piece I am missing, though in order to use this setup I am looking into what it would take to get one of those big fans running. I also might as well add ABL...

Nah, I had to replace the hotted because the stock one went belly up after 3 prints, and I'm raging so hard at the stupid thing I can't see straight.

So, blower mount? I can print it on my lovely little MP Select Mini that just works like a little mule.

hi chito, how you position the new CR-10_HD-modular-mount-V6_wing_5015__BLTouch_v1.2 for print?
Do you use support or not???
Regards

It can be printed without support but you should use a brim or the part will probably tip over since it only touches the bed at the bottom of the fan.

how you print the blue part without support???

It gets a little messy under the prongs but you can use the snips that come with the CR-10 to clean it up. It wont be perfect on the underside. Just don't over tighten the bolts/nuts that mount the probe. You want it to be perpendicular to the bed and not leaning left or right.

It will be nice to have a mount for e3d titan direct extruder.
may anyone help?
I don't have enough skill to do this))

Hi Chito,
Nice work. One question. If I mirror the ABL mount alone to use on the right side...am I correct in understanding the offsets to be:

ABL (18mm thread). Offset X:-041.5mm / Y:0

depends which one. there are 2 mounts for ABL, the origianl one and one that comes forward 12mm

is ther a way to get the hole CAD File so i can mod this mount for my corexy AND ender 2 Desktop

I love that you keep updating this thing, but MAN, this will be my 3rd time printing it, lol. Keep up the good work!

Any easy way to add dual cooling with a volcano set up? I have one set up with a left side fan only because of the cables on the right.

sure is, just print a fan mount for the right side

could you post step files for the base mounts as well? It would make it easier to make attachments to have those models along with. Thanks!

Hi, is there a fan duct with BL touch mount? (there is one with an ABL mount) As I would like to use 2 ducts with my BL Touch. Cheers

Part added. Have a play and let me know if there are issues

Chito, the combo BLTouch/5015 mount hits the gantry or whatever it's called(the thing that holds the x end stop) before the x end stop is tripped. I wonder if you can rotate it 90 degrees and have the prongs going from the front to back instead to the left. That should give you clearance of the gantry and still have a y offset of zero I think.

Part updated. Let me know how this one turns out. Ive used the same fix as another part that had the same issue

Hi!
Which parts will be necessary for using E3D V6 bowden + EZABL? These ones?

  • CR-10_HD-modular-mount-V6_mount-body_v1
  • CR-10_HD-modular-mount-V6_mount-cover__40mm-fan_v1 (for stock fan)
  • CR-10_HD-modular-mount-V6_wing_5015_v1
  • CR-10_HD-modular-mount-V6_wing_5015__ABL_v1 (mirrored for right side + ABL)

Thanks in advance! :)

Comments deleted.

the stock V6 fan is 30mm so the above needs to use CR-10_HD-modular-mount-V6_mount-cover__30mm-fan_v1 instead of the 40mm one.
the above set up is also for dual 5015 fans

OK, thanks!
Which is the best orientation to print these parts and avoid problems with supports?

Hi chito, can you have an update on the 40mm heatsink fan mount. The fan hole are too narrow on bottom, the cooling air are not flow properly to the bottom fins of v6, and i faced clogging while printing. It is good make it more wide open for the 40mm mount hole. Thanks.

Any chance you could add a fan for the left side that has the BL touch holder on it. I'm crap at modelling and made a pigs ear of it trying to do it myself. I believe it needs to be offset so it doesnt hit the side.

Part added. Have a play and let me know if there are issues

I think by looking at it its going to need offsetting so that it doesnt smash into the gantry

Part updated. Let me know how this one turns out. Ive used the same fix as another part that had the same issue

Will print it out right now and let you know

Its on the Todo list. October has been a busy month for me. I was hoping to add this to the last update but couldnt get around to making it

Love the mount! But the fan shrouds blow on the nozzle and cause my temperature to drop off too much :(

Can you modify the BLTouch mount to add space for the wires in the back and also lower the prongs a bit? I'm a couple of mm's short of the 3mm+/- .03 distance to the bottom of the nozzle.

Your mounts have about 13/14mm of adjustment but the "right" or ideal spot seems to be as low as you can go. The only real adjustment is going up. There should be more room to adjust lower because there is always variations from machine to machine. The length from the tip of a nozzle to the start of the threads can vary from brand to brand and there are other variables that can vary from your own setup.

I've reviewed the part and realized that you don't need a new or updated part. to solve both your problems, ie lower and more room for wires.. mount it like in the attached image instead

I thought about doing that but didn't do it because the underside of the prongs didn't print smoothly for me. I'd have to file it down and try to keep the underside of the prongs level so the probe is level. I don't recall if I printed with supports so that might have been the cause of the problem. I haven't wired my BLTouch yet so I don't know if both sides light up when it does it's diagnostics or whatever it's supposed to do. I assume it should be visible on both sides but I'm not sure. The other minor thing is wire management would be a bit cleaner if the probe was mounted the other way around.

I know you're busy but I hope you'll add the original suggestions to your to do list for the future. Your fan mounts could also use a little more downward play just as a good design practice to support more situations. Like someone else posted a few days ago I would welcome you posting your step files so it would make it easier for us newbs to experiment and make mods to your mounts.

*I meant step files not stl files.

All 5015 fan ducts have been updated. should now be friendlier on the nozzle. view attached image

Thanks for the feedback. i will make these changes in the next update.

Can a suggest adding version numbers to your file names so we can see when files have changed. I think I have 3 versions of your design on my drive and don't really know when files have changed even after reading your notes.

version numbers added. BTL mount not modified yet (busy month)

i have question, about air stream from 5015 because this size outlet are wide and thick, it not will be better if the air outlet was shorter closer to nozzle? it will not perform better with faster cooling layers, and maybe longer bridges if air stream have more "power" if it output from smaller diameter exit?

the fan doesn't just blow on the where the filament leaves the hotend, it also cools the part. the 5015 fans are really strong a wide airflow works really well.

Have you tried some of the bridging tests with different duct designs? Using one fan I can get good bridges up to 40 to 60mm but anything longer is nothing but strings of loose filament running across. I guess the bridge design and possibly slicer output play a role but if the heater block wasn't in the way you might get better part bonding as the printhead is traveling left to right and moving away from the area you want to cool. Printing the other direction should be better but if you had problems going the other direction would that screw up the print going right to left? Anyway it would be interesting to compare results with a Prusa printer.

sounds like your using a single fan. try switching to dual fans. I also looking at other fan designs, inparticular single fan cooling from both sides. not sure what to go with because radial ducts dont disteibute air flow well. it will most likely be 2 fangs type duct

I just tried printing https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1879027 with two fans and I'm getting a thermal protection fault w/Marlin v1.16 I think I need to adjust the fan speeds for layers near the bed because the air is bouncing off the bed up towards the heater block and making the firmware think the thermistor is loose. Failed 3 straight times about the same place. (I need to also double check the code to make sure I didn't miss any thermal protection code specific for the CR10). I just unplugged the 2nd fan(left one) and the print is running fine again.

** looks like the stock CR10 firmware doesn't have the thermal protection code. I'd have to look @ release notes to find when this safety feature was added and play with the settings in configuration_adv.h to stop error.

All 5015 fan ducts have been updated. should now be friendlier on the nozzle. view attached image

Is there a version without the logos and can you make this bit thicker it leaves a gap ?

Part has been updated

ive fixed this and the new version of the part will come out in the next update. dont know when that will be as there are a few things i want to add

Am I dumb or are the right side fan mounts not available? I dont see anything that could mount on the right.

from the details: "NOTE: To print a wing for the other side simply mirror the part in your slicer"

So it was the first one lol. Not going to lie, I didn't know that mirroring was even possible in slicer.

Anyone you could angle the 5010 fan down a little more?

im looking at making some kind of optional cover to angle the air flow lower for those who want/need it. need to plan and design it

Hi chito,

Very happy with your thing, especially with Volcano mounting. The best modular design for CR-10.

Just one request to enhance it: may you add a plate under the fan mount for hot glue a 3leds smd5050 strip (40mmx10mm) with groove cable ? Enough remaining space for that.

Thank you in advance.

LED mount added

great idea, I actually bought gopro usb flash ring for the same reason. ill make a mount soon

Comments deleted.

Gopro usb flash ring is also a good idea but you need 5V usb. A SMD strip requires 12V which would be wired from the permanent fan 40mm ou 30mm wiring cable of CR-10.

My idea is: from the vertical side of fan mount, there is a plate with groove for positive and negative cables; then, under the fan mount, there is a groove/flanged (borders) plate where i may slide an adhesive smd strip (2 leds for 30mm; 3 leds for 40mm .fan mount). Nice to direct lighting the printed zone (nozzle).
Sorry for my poor/bad english

hi, super design, but hard to understand witch are for Volcano only, also what means the AL in the end of the name...a little confused on what i need to print in order to achieve an e3d with abl setup for example, or an e3d volcano with abl..as i saw one part also has some issue...a little name change will be just great so for example if a part is for e3d and volcano, put both in the name...will help a lot the "first timers"

all side wings/modules work for all mounts. the mount parts with AL are for aluminium casting, as shown in the gallery. The gallery also shows which mount to print if you have a volcano, it also has a big volcano logo.

ok...the all was a little confusing and i saw some of them had like a little ridge in the right side and some none..still thanks for the confirmation amazing design...just cant wait to get my new all metal extruder to print them as the original one just made a huge crack. One more question do you think PLA will work? i never had a e3d or a volcano, and just ordered both...i i just love how the pla prints over all other materials..but i do not know how big is the temperature that is making direct contact with the metal parts of volano/e3d.. can you tell me if it is ok in PLA?

Pla should be okay. The heatsink doesnt really get hot. not enough to melt the pla. but if you dont want to take the risk print it in petg or abs or some of the other filamemts that are heat resistant

Any advice on printing the 40mm fan mount. I’m finding it’s quite fragile once completed.

make sure you print at the recommended infill, make sure there are no issues with layer adhesion and perhaps increase the shell count so you get stronger walls

Thanks Chito, infill and layer adhesion seemed ok but I upped the shell count and adjusted the orientation and it now perfect.

Waiting on my 1st CR10D to land for almost a month but I will be printing this up when I get it . Thank you for all your hard work.

Argghh just printed out update 10. Oh well time to print update 10.5. ;)

sorry. not all the part were affected. you can see which ones by the date it was uploaded

Don't apologise for improving such a great upgrade. I'm just a tad OCD and have to have the latest.Once I've rebuilt my CR-10 I'll be fine. Thanks again for all your hard work on this.

Really love this mount btw, very polished. I am having a bunch of Fan trouble (not related) and can only run a single fan right now, any chance of a Radial fan attachment for the 5015? Would still give me the cooling I need atm, at least until I start to tackle the serious filaments.

Cheers.

its on the todo list but its way down the list.

What adjustments do I need. Setup is just the Modular Mount Body, Cover for 40mm fan, and right sided 5015 Radial Fan Duct.Extruder Nozzle is sitting pretty much in same position on X but Y is at edge of glass

Personally, I don't see that as much of an issue. you could play around with your limit switches and get the bed to home where you want. but most people leave it.

Hi Chito,

May i bother you with another question :)
I'm changing the endstops of my cr-10 butt is not a good fit with the new one.
I have to drill and sand the black plastic parts what i really don't want to do
so is it possible that you can make a stl file of the 3 parts so i can print them ?
It would be great.
I tried to create them with a 3d program but its not my thing i don't understand the program yet.
The bl-touch mount is a perfect fit work great to so thank you for that.

I freaking love this mount! But I have an issue. Part cooling duct seems to blow too much on the nozzle :( It's temperature drops drastically and causes my CR-10 to halt... Has anyone else experience this? Am I doing something wrong? I put it on left side and using 5015 fan...

Yes, have same issue, cooled the hot end down so fast couldn't keep up

parts have been updated recently. did you try the new version of the parts?

I printed the fangs yesterday, so they must be the latest version. I am using a volcano moun with the nozzle screwed all the way in until it makes contact with the heating block. When I switch on the fans (about 70%), the temperature of the nozzle drops drastically and never manages to recover. From 210C to 190C and just stays at 190C.
Is there a mod that can be made?

Besides this, great modular design. I hope I can find a way around this.

Printing them as we speak, you the man!

fan ducts just got updated again. not sure if this is an issue for you still

Any chance to get some fangs that will blow lower? I tried to modify them with a heating gun but the results are very bad looking.
Maybe you can share a 3D file format that will allow me to point the airflow a little bit lower? I also need the BLTouch mount so I really really would like to use your mount, but in the current configuration, I simply cannot use it. When switching on the blowers, it takes 20C from the hotend without any chance of getting them back.
Really like the modular design, but this is a show stopper for me.

parts updated

Awesome thanks a lot! I will try it out right away!

ive redesigned the fan ducts as part of the next update. it should work better. ive yet to upload them as im still testing the parts

Sorry for question but a bit new to this. For a E3D V6 (https://macewen3d.com/collections/upgrades-for-cr-10/products/e3d-v6-clone-hotend-ptfe-with-volcano-heater-block-and-volcano-brass-nozzle-pack) and an EZABL what should I print? I have one 5015 radial fan. Do I need to get another? And a 40mm regular?

Thanks!

you dont have to get anything. really is up to you how u want your setup to be. If youre going to need to print high temp filament then a stronger fan setup will help u more. maybe you print pla most of the time and one fan for the print, one fan on the heataink is enough. up to you where you want your EZABL either way u will need to edit your firmware to tell it where it is. this mount can be whatever you want it to be, have a look in the make section to see how other people have set up theirs

Thanks for response! I am currently using the EZABL on stock. I would say 99% of the time is PLA. I ordered another radial fan today though so is there a disadvantage with 2x Radials and a 30/40 mm fan? If there is none then I might as well go best I can so what parts would than mean need printing?
I can't thank you enough for a) designing this and b) answering! I'm new to this so how do we show appreciation/donation?

my set up is dual 5015 with a 40mm fan on the heatsink. i have my ABL on the righthand side. beaware wthat with some filaments cooling to rapidly can cause warping so if u have issues adjust ur settings. no need for donations. just share how much you like it and maybe add your "make" once yoube got it set up :)

Love this mount, super solid, supports 40mm fan and ezabl.

Is there any way to make this mount work with a direct mounted titan extruder on top?

I appreciate all your hard work! I really love this solution.

Could I make 1 small request? Is it possible that you put dates next to each update, so we know if we have the latest? Like:

UPDATE 9 (10/1/2017).

Thanks again, I love this thing!

yeah this even bugs me lol. wheb I started I forgot to add them. ill have a new update soon, im going over all my designs are fixing or improving minor things ive found. ill definitely added a date for that

That would be great! Wish thingiverse would let you do a change log and historical tracking of it. Then you wouldn't need the dates :P.

Are you redoing the entire thing? Or only the wings? I just set mine up last night. About to post the picture in the makes :). I love this thing!

Now to figure out how I can add LED's near the nozzle so It's lit up...The dual nozzles covers the screw holes for the one I wanted to use. But I would rather have the nozzles than the LED's :).

Wondering if I can use an LED near the top of the nozzle and somehow get it to reflect down a PTFE tube....excuse my rambling. I'm bored at work, haha

A new LED mount has been added. mounts to the fans

First I want to say great job on the V6 mount. I've tried 2 or 3 different ones and yours is by far the best. However I'm having problems with the 5015 fan mounts with a sensitive PLA filament that has poor layer bonding at lower temps. I've got the fan mounts set as low as they can go and they are at the perfect height so the nozzle is lower than the fan ducts. It appears that the ducts are blowing air on the nozzle/heater block. With dual fans @ 100% my nozzle temp drops from 220 to 205 when the fans turn on even with a heater block sock on. If I drop the fan speed down to 40% then the nozzle is able to maintain close to 220 and have a decent print. The problem is the fans start to whine at lower speeds. I've verified it's the fans by turning the fans off in the slicer and monitoring the nozzle temps.

Any idea if the duct can be redesigned to aim lower but still allow enough clearance? I'm using the SoundOriginal fans from Amazon.

Thanks

The V6 comes with silicone socks for this exact reason, also I'm reviewing parts of my designs and I've noticed that the fans could benefit from being a little bit lower. You will always get some air on the heatblock. Your printer should detect the temp drop and heat up the block and compensate. I'm also looking at other fan duct designs like a radial (Prusa i3 mk3)

I think two 5015 @ 100% causes too much heat loss for the CR10 to keep up. I had to cut both fans by 60% to maintain proper temp but that causes problems printing Benchy. I've only had the V6 for a few days but I've been scratching my head trying figure out what was going on. Only today did I notice the temperature drop.

A couple of things I noticed comparing the dual fang for CR10 and Prusa designs(BTW you can get stl file on Prusa site) is that they are about 15mm away from the tip of nozzle to the lower edge of the duct. You are about 22mm away. I believe the further away you are the more the air stream expands or loses focus.

I don't know if you want to lower the duct as the bottom edge is close to as low as you can go without running into printed parts. I think you need the top edge of the duct to go out further to act has a downward deflector. The Prusa design is interesting as they only use one fan. The duct is pretty much straight except deflectors in the back bottom and front top edge.

parts updated

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thanks mate, u save my day

hi , can you sir make a support fan in the right side? i only see on left. Thanks for sharing :)

in your slicer just mirror the part you want for the other side. thats why there are no parts for the right side

FYI I made a remix of the body mount to work with the cable chain mod by junaling.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2558352

Have a correct link to this?

you said earlier the files (are they current up to date also?) Fusion 360 were available on the FB group. could you be more specific? as their are several groups. thanks! -S

as of today there are only 3 groups

Creality CR-10 3d Printer
Creality CR-10 3d Printer User Group
and the brand new Creality CR-10-S4/S5

my file is in the 2nd one, here is the link https://www.facebook.com/groups/CrealityCR10/1725042437798817/
if you're not a member you will have to join. there are at least 3 or more other versions of it in that group's file section

Looks great! would it be possible to get the Fusion 360 file or .stl file for the original X-carriage (black piece in first image)

if youre on the facebook group for the cr-10 its already in the files section. in fact theres 2 in there (wish i had known that before i created mine lol)

What material should this be printed in?

depends really. for everyday stuff like pla, abs, petg then a pla mount should be fine. The Heatsink shouldn't get too hot if everything is working correctly. If you plan on having an enclosure and will print high temp filaments then a pla, abs or petg mount might not cut it. the best filament for heat based stuff seems to be nylon which falls apart at around 245C. If you're in the Facebook user groups for the CR-10 there is run being organised for just the mount to be machined from Aluminium which melts at 660C and is stronger, really light and shiny lol

Have messaged you on face book as cannot see it on the pages.

Hi Chito,

Based on the details, it looked like missing the info of screw size for 40mm fan to attach on the front plate.

Thank you.

same as the ones that came with your v6 but longer. depending on how thick your fan is

For the left side 5015 probe mount shouldn't it be Offset X: -63mm (not +63 since that is right not left for neg) / Y: 12mm, also why is Y 12 not zero like if was right side mount since it's just a mirror object. Also get a compile error of "exit status 1
static assertion failed: RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION can't be reached by the Z probe." when compiling it as:
define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -63 // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle]
define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 12 (or zero) // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]
define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0 // Z offset: -below +above [the nozzle]

the offset in this case is 63mm along the x axis. so if you have printed it for left side it would be -63 if you have printed it for the right its +63

there are 2 versions of the fan + ABL module. one has y of 0. an alternative version has the mount moved forward 12mm. so use the value that is for the one you're using

It should be -12, I believe as marlin seems to define "negative for Y as closer to the front of the machine.. I'm using -63 and -12 and it seems to be working as I'd expect.

Will this work with stock hot end on CR10,I have only been printng in PLA and ABS.Not sure what the future holds.This design is Nice,I have an EZABL,new firmware now supports this,as of today.I have a new 5015 fan that i bought for a fang,that I could use.Do you think 2 fans would cool print to much or just use 1 and does this support stock hotend?

No this mount is for the e3D V6 and V6 with Volcano hotend. It won't work with the stock hotend, but I might see if I can make one that does. maybe. this would be very far down on the list of things I need to do

Thats o.k,At some point I will upgrade hotend.You done a great job here thanks.

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I would love to print in Blue ABS,but I have an EZ ABL and didn't I read on Facebook group for CR10 last week or so from Timothy that theres a problem with this working with his EZ ABL?

you sure it this mount? I'm in that group also and there hasn't been any feedback anywhere on anything not working as it should.

There was a post about firmware offsets. Note that to get any mount working you will need to update the firmware. I believe Tim has a mount that comes with the kit or he has an STL. its offsets are already pre-configured in the firmware he releases for the EZABL. To use these mounts you would change the offsets to the ones mentioned in the details for this Thingiverse. There are 2 mounting options for the left and 3 mount options for the right. so make sure to use the correct offsets

Thanks for getting back to me,it was about offsets and he said hes working on this.Thanks

Great just what im looking for solid work !!!!
Will there be a bltouch mount ???

I dont have one, but i can look into making one. i wont be able to test it however

hi, what the progress on the bltouch mount

BLTouch mount is ready. Let me know if it works well

thanks man !!!!!

haven't started it yet but did look into the dimensions of the BLTouch. I'm not clear how much of the prob is meant to be out.
some diagrams say the prob is 8mm +/- 5mm, another says 11mm - 6.7mm. dont know if its meant to have a clearance from the bed.

that would be great!!!! thanks man

Hi Chito.... Really nice work man. I've printed these parts (main body and both wings) but with the sensor on the right wing (mirror image of your file to have it mounted on the right side when facing the printer) until I realized that you've written not to use the 5015 fan & ABL (18mm thread) on the right side. Why is this?
Anyway I really appreciate your work.

sorry typo, it's meant to say on left side. its correct in the images. thanks for pointing it out, I'll coreect it. i have mine on the right as well.
fyi the reason why you cant have it on the left is because it hits the frame of the machine and prevents the x-carriage from hitting the limit switch

What material you were using? Is PLA enough for handling it?

I've printed it in pla. the side wing modules should be fine in pla. not sure about the main body. the mount is also designed to allow airflow behind the heatsink so hot air can get out easier. I bought the v6 so I could use a wider range of enginnering filaments, which means higher temps. I really wonder if it will warp if you print the mount in pla. if the heatsink and fan are doing their job it shouldn't get hot enough for that to happen. maybe print using a filament with better thermal properties. you could always anneal your pla and that will make it way tougher upto 160C i think, top of the line is nylon which wont budge till around 230C but is super hard to print with (needs hight temps and warps)
i would love to know if anyone has had any warping issues with pla

I've used the previous version in PLA up to 250c and no problems at all

thats great news. was it a long print and/or did you use an enclosure? what infill percentage did you print it at?

PLA would soften a bit if you have your printer in an enclosure when printing ABS with bed temperature of 90 degrees plus. It happened to my PLA printed parts cooling fan duct while printing ABS but fortunately I could just pause the print take off the fan duct and resume printing.

this would mean the body and wings would be affected. im actaully in talks with someone to get a version of the body made from aluminum to experiment with. if it works out he will sell them from his shop. might need to do the wings to maybe. of course if you use a filament that is temp resistant youll have no issues

Could You number the parts against the build files? Spend more time matching the File to the Picture. I love looking at the pictures. Great imagination on these. Thanks.

the parts have very descriptive names.
the main body and cover are easy enough to identify. you habe version of the cover that can mount fans, 30mm and 40mm.
the wings or side modules can have a combination of
ABL (auto bed leveling)
5015 fan and an
alternative verion with ABL more forward to allow access to the x limit switch

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Any support for volcano blocks and nozzles? These are taller and would require modified fan ducts. Thanks! :)

Volcano mount added

this has been requested already and are on the todo list. ill make them soon. hopefully next 2 days

Looks great! No way to fit the stock hot end?

alot of these mods are already available for the stock hotend. not as a single solution though. hmmm if demand is enough i might make a modular system for it or if i get in to a creating mood, which haopens often lol

Would love that. I can't seem to find a dual blower setup for the stock hot end anywhere

its one of the items I remixed this off. here is the original dual 5015 blower for the stock hotend
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2274499

Imagine That Titian/Atlas, Creality CR-10, Afinibot A31 Print Cooling

Really nice job, looks like the most solid e3d mount for the CR-10. All the others use some sort of grip around the heatsink (which doesn't work very well). Thanks, this is exactly what I was looking for.

Glad you like it :) cant take all the credit but. i just put my spin, fixes, updates and ideas on existing ideas

Can i ask you for a favor? Could you upload an editable file (iges or fusion 360) just with the mount part of the fan-holder? I don't want the whole fan holder, just the upper part, for making some remixes? Maybe someone has an different ABL sensor (8mm, 12mm or 18mm) or even a bl-touch or needs something completely different, who knows.

STEP file added

Awesome, thx!

Yep sure no probs. I'm still making changes to these parts, I'm about to upload some improvements. I'll include a step file of a wing. Give me a few mins

Hi can please upload the wings for the right.. All the left sides are here but not the right side thanks

In your slicer just mirror any of the wings and you'll have the right side ones

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Nice job man, this is EXACTLY what I was looking for.

Just installed the 40mm fan mount, it needs to be adjusted to not cool the heating block or it won't work.

thanks slimshizn
ill fix that as soon as i can. I haven't been able to try the 40mm configuration yet. its the last piece that needs testing. if you really need to use a 40mm fan right now, this part works well with the regular face plate
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:929326

E3Dv6 40 mm Fan Duct

Thank you for supplying that fan mount, I've started printing it and will let you know if it works.

it should work. it was tested and supplied by another user. its the one that is in the photos in the gallery

You just use the original mount then and mount this fan duct on top of it?

print the face plate that has no fan mount. then print the part I linked above, it attaches directly to the V6 heatsink like the original 30mm fan did

Okay nice, Thank you.

Yes can confirm that it works perfectly. The bottom of the fan duct is flush with the e3d heatsink top and bottom.

I've updated the 40mm fan mount based on your feedback. You dont have to try it out but if you do let me know if it works

Well done, new mount I uploaded today and printed with some spare filament. Works good.

Flat new version of wings are very good to print, no need support like original ! thx !

No probs, had to make a few changes to make that happen, but moving forward the whole system will work better now. Just need to optimise the new 30mm fan and make the 40mm fan mount and this thingy will be done.

Infill, resolution, supports, tips on print layout orientation? Also maybe one without the text on it for easier printed stronger part? Also seems to be missing the GW signature as well.

from the description "This is still work in progress and I'm testing parts. For printer setting and orientation please refer to the links". While I've been using CAD for a few years in relatively new to 3d. So I havent worked out those details yet. If anyone is willing to share any advice it would be welcomed. also different parts would need different settings. I still need to fix and make optimizations so tjat might change things as well.

so far I would try upright with at least 20% infill. one of the links says 70% but that seems really high. the only piece that has nice details is the faceplate so maybe a nicer resolution for that one

I just printed them all at 100% in PETG at 0.24 layer height. Took 4h:58m:29s to complete in one go. So with the ABL on the left side like I printed I shouldn't need to adjust the marlin firmware from how I have it using the EZABL kits carriage mount? I know I'm going to at least have to redo my calibration offset for the probe.

I don't have the EZABL kit so I can't tell you. but the part it's for is at least centred so there should be 0 y offset. I would treat any new mount as something that would need to be set up from scratch which should be just setting your offset values and installing it at the height in the instructions which for the EZABL I think is z-axis 2mm from the hotend tip