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Jointed female figure

by Gavitka Aug 21, 2017
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The model is very hard to print to the point where successfully printing and assembling it turns into a good learning experiences.

There are few issues. Joints have variable strength. Knee and Elbow joints that use hinges work flawlessly. Ball joints on the shoulders also stay in place really well (inserting them requires Hulk strength, though). However, ball joints that attach feet to legs and ball joints that attach hands to arms are quite flimsy to the point where parts fly off easily. Maybe printing at higher precision would improve situation, but at 0.2 resolution using PLA and I3 mega they do not stay in place well.

Additionally, I've learned the hard way that tree supports do not work on this model, and standard "pillar" support is the way to go, unless you want spaghettic monsters. The model also has plenty of details with needless overhangs that could have been avoided


Тяжело напечаталось, но в процессе много нового узнал.

Мелкие части вроде кистей рук и стоп отваливаются, крупные шариковые соединения держаться хорошо, но для них нужна медвежья сила, чтобы вставить. Может с более высоким разрешением было бы лучше. Самый удачный вариант сочленений - это с осями, на локатях и на коленях.

Методом проб и ошибок выяснил ччто древовидные подпорки для этой модели не работают (если только не хочется смотреть на лапшу) и нужны прямые. В модели есть много моментов с навесами которые трудно потом отковырять, например прорези на осях зачем-то сделаны под углом друг к другу.

В любом случае, спасибо.

it's a shame no one ever makes male BJD models. Do you have any plans of revisiting these types of designs, and if so, would you consider making a male version?

Does anyone know what scale this is?

I am having trouble printing the torso everything else printed fine however it seems like the torso wont download

would it be possible to make this into a male figure?
my niece loves drawing anime and I think these might help her and, if not, for a lot less investment than the kumi-chun ones (I think that's what they are called)

Отличная работа! очень элегантно выглядит. Ждем мужскую модель в таком стиле)

Comments deleted.

the ball joints do not fit on this one -.- so much wasted time and filament...

bummer this is so hard to print, woulda loved to have it.

Hello, i liked your work... i'm thinking on print this... I'm new to this 3d printing.. Can you help me or guide me to print this?

how can I position the models for printing in the slicer software I can't figure out a way to print it without making every single part literally float on supports (using S3D)

Just a tip for the scapula parts in this for PLA

print it 1 percent less in cura and it will fit.

This works for me anyways. currently working on the rest of the body.

By far the best action figure on this s site!!

I can only get the parts to fit after quite a lot of sanding (currently trying scapula > chest). I'll try to print the scapula a few percent smaller as a workaround and hope I can make it work for the other parts as well.
When forcing it in without sanding it cracks the chest a tiny bit and is unable to move around.

hi! love the model!!
I'm trying to print the head but getting it lot of dirty.
how did you place the head in the slicer software?
thanks in advance :)

Hi, i put it upside down. For better printing of the hair.

Hello man, I love this model, I printed it and I'm actually refining it. I'll post the made soon.
My suggestions for possible improvements:

  • Put all the major pieces facing up, in order to have supports and pavement brims signs on the back of the model, this will result in a cleaner front of the model (users will mostly look at if frontly). Head is nicely printed laying on its neck.
  • kneecap joints are weak and too thin, they are easy to break, the probably need to be reinforced, or, at least, I think u should lay them on the ground so that the layers will build the kneecaps joints passing through their vertical axes. They will be more resistant to traction (rings vs stratified layers).
  • same but inverted for the hands. Put them in vertical so that the wrist ball won't break them by splitting them in half while jointing them together.
  • feet do need a better socket (need to be 360°) in order to sap properly to the leg's ball joint.
    Peace and thanks for sharing.

Ok, will try, thanks! :)

UPDATE - 2/1 - Some new developments lead to an update here.

Alright, this model has been a tough print. I've done quite a bit to get the quality & strength I wanted. So, here are my findings:

This was all printed on an Original Prusa i3 Mk2.

Regular PLA : Gives a decent print quality at a decent speed, BUT sacrifices strength. You can get by with this, but make sure your layers are laminating really well; and follow my strength suggestions exactly.
ABS : Great on the strength front, but I never was able to get a print quality that I liked in a reasonable amount of time. Printing at 50um on about half speed could get me almost all the way there, but it would have taken forever.
High-Strength PLA: There's different PLA out there that flexes and laminates better (9x better, if the advertising is to be believed). This is what I had the best luck with. It's comparably strong with ABS and prints at a quality unmatched in any other PLA I've used. I used a brand called Tactink; it wasn't really any more expensive than any other PLA, but I'm so happy with it. Basically, this process has given me my newest favorite brand of PLA.

10 Tips for a Successful Print:

Tip 0 - Added to the top, because it is the most useful of the tips. If you can, split each piece in half along the same axis you would have printed the piece at according to tip 2, print them so the split part is flat on the build plate, then glue both halves together. Prints are strongest along the X-Y axis, as will be discussed in tip 2. However, this requires much support material, which tends to ruin the aesthetic of your piece. Splitting it in half and then re-gluing it creates a print with almost no support material, allows you to print the X-Y along sections of the model that have high failure rates (loops around pins, ball joint towers, and ball joint sockets), and it places a strong glue line along the Z axis. After discovering this (and printing with High-Strength PLA) I did a single print, had zero failures, had a great looking print, and had ZERO failures. I can't stress this enough; on each other print I had to reprint parts, but using this method I never had to reprint a part and got better results than any other method. I used Blender to slice my pieces in half. I didn't do this with the head, hands, or the pins, only the rest of the body.

1 - Print everything with thick shells. It's tempting to do less, to save materials, but trust me, it's worth it. I printed my pieces with 5mm shells. You could probably get away with 2-3.

2 - Even with ABS and High-Strength PLA I’d suggest printing in a way that discourages splitting. You don’t have to do this will all parts, there are some parts where it makes more cosmetic sense not to do this without compromising structural stability (chest, pelvis, foot/toes and head). This is specifically for parts that either: 1) Clip around a ball, 2) have a peg running through them, or 3) are a peg. It’s tempting to print these up and down (like towers) to avoid supports, but I highly suggest printing all of them on their side, then adjust the orientation as follows:
--With things that clip around the ball (wrists and shoulders), print so the printer lays down filament in a Y pattern. Don’t orient it so there is support between the clip; it will tend to split down the middle.
--With things that have 4 pieces that clip around the ball (hips and stomach), orient them so at least 2 get that Y pattern. If one of the other two fail, it isn’t that big of a deal.
--With things that have a pin through them, orient them so the printer lays down filament around the hole, like an O. This will provide strength on all sides of the hole and it will not give the part any easy failure points.
--With the pegs, the slots are offset. Print the slots at diagonals to the bed.
SIDE NOTE: I initially had a problem with the support on balls cracking. Switching to 100% infill fixed this, so I was able to print tower-like for better cosmetics. If you’re having trouble, try turning them as well. Balls should be of acceptable quality if you’re printing so the slit through them is printed in that Y pattern.

3 - Adjust print quality between parts for better strength and look. I’d suggest 50um on the hands, feet, head and pins. 100um on the chest, stomach, pelvis, neck. 200um on everything else (mostly for speed). This works best to check if parts will work without sacrificing much of your time. Feel free to go back and reprint parts at a higher quality once everything is assembled, if you want it to look more polished.

4 - ABS Only : When printing with ABS, do the acetone vapor bath. It doesn’t have to be fancy; just a rag in a cup will do. This increases the strength of the part significantly. If I could have gotten ABS to print at a reasonable quality; this is what I would have done for the whole model.

5 - With so many parts, you may want to print multiple ones at a time to save some time. That is the devil talking to you. The only parts you can get away with printing multiples of on the same build plate are the pins; but only after you know they will fit.

6 - If a pin isn’t going in, try clearing out the hole with a screwdriver of a similar size; there may be some loose filament in there. You shouldn’t have to force it in hard. Make sure the pin can go in each hole individually, with some tension, then assemble. You shouldn’t have to use a vice grip to get the pin in, but you still want it snug. If the pin is still having a hard time; experiment with making it smaller in your slicer. These things take like 2 minutes to print, and reprinting could save you from printing an entire 2 hour piece because you cracked it. Just take those two minutes as insurance.

7 - When you're first starting off, print just an arm (shoulder, scapula, forearm, elbow hinge, default hand). These parts don't take long to print and have all the common failure points you'll experience in the rest of the build. You can experiment with these and get a feel for how the whole print will go, without spending a crazy amount of time on the bigger parts.

8 - Only print the hand gestures after the rest of the print is done.

9 - If a piece breaks, don’t get discouraged. Step back and ask yourself: Why did this piece break? How could I do things better to keep it from breaking next time? Orientation, lamination, calibration, assembly, and material all play a part in keeping your piece together.

10 - Expect a long build, but a satisfying build once you’re finished. If you’re like me, you’ll be proud of the final product (and if you draw, like me, you’ll find it remarkably easier to nail complex poses, now).

Thanks for the guide! I am not sure about 100% infill, for me 4-5 perimeters and 25-30% infill were sufficient. There were failed prints of course.

I've been adjusting a little more, and I've actually found that I can get away with less infill, like you wrote, as long as the towers the balls are on (on the pelvis & chest) are all solid. About 5mm wall thickness does it.

Also, I've been experimenting with slicing each piece in half, printing both sides, then gluing them together with CA glue. My results are fantastic. Strong joints, almost no support material needed, and the outside looks great (aside from the seam). It's a pretty simple process in Blender, and I feel it adds a lot of strength. So far, I've done this on the chest, torso, and pelvis and I've had no breaks (Though I did bump the torso up to 102% because it was a little too small for a nice joint).

You might consider adding this to your current model, because it would make this print way more accessible (I could remix it, but I don't want to step on your toes).

Any chance you might add a skull head attachment ?


Yeah i can do that.

What is her scale? How much do I have to reduce the parts when I want to make a 1:12 scale figure. It is difficult to scale het when there are so many parts. She has to be about 5,5 inches tall

Default height is 250mm.

I done 5 times same model , but same break on the ball for connection...how to solve it?


Try ABS. I found that PLA is too brittle for many of the parts that need to bend (it's okay for the ball part of the joints, though).
If the ABS is still giving you trouble, it's probably because you are getting poor layer adhesion; for my ABS I am printing at 240 with a fan speed of 40% on the i3 mk2s.

I'd also recommend experimenting before you do the whole print. Start with either the lower leg and foot, or with the forearm and hand. Those are the pieces most likely to break if the piece is too brittle, or if you're getting poor layer adhesion.

I haven't tried with a high-strength PLA like Polymax or Tough PLA, but I have some Polymax on the way; will experiment with that to see the results.

Comments deleted.

Attempting to print this this weekend. I'm new to 3d printing so wish me luck.

Thank you very much. Started to print this nice project this morning!

I was just wondering how tall the model is without any adjustments made and how much does it weigh? I want to get one printed at my local library so I need to determine how much it will cost, thanks!

250mm by default

Sup Just wanted to bother you about one piece that I can't find.

That is the abdomen piece, The one that connects the Torso to the Pelvis, I cannot find i on the zipped file.
I'm assuming it's the piece called "body_26.stl" But that file may have gotten corrupt as it only looks like a small triangle in the middle of the platform.

If so, Can you please reupload it?

Torso is an abdomen piece. It goes directly into pelvis via its ball joint. "body_26.stl' is just crap, please ignore it.

Lol, Sorry, I confused "Chest" and "Torso" Thought they were the same.

Thank you anyways for the Quick response!

Will post pictures when done!

It made my morning to read the pleasant surprise you got that she can stand up. ^^

do i need to print each part seperate ? or could it work if i print the complete Figure ?


I recommend to print separate. I doubt it will work as full figure.

Распечатала и пытаюсь собрать, но все части тела отпадают. Было бы неплохо сделать пазы для шарниров немного глубже. И было бы здорово, чтоб волосы были отдельно от головы, для печати другим цветом. (Я попыталась отделить волосы Meshmixerом, но получилось фиговенько).
Только не обижайтесь, пожалуйста, на мою критику, Вы разработали красивую модель с правильными пропорциями и она мне очень нравится, просто хочется, чтоб она стала идеальной. :)

Что-то файлы не выкладываются. Попробую В Rimix it их выложить.

Что вы, вполне обоснованная критика. Очень трудно подогнать суставы, требуется много тестовых распечаток. Они либо слишком свободные, либо ломаются. На днях поробую выложить модель с уменьшенными зазорами в суставах. Я после распечатки подклеил кусочки малярного скотча, чтобы увеличить трение. Насчет волос надо подумать, могу пока выложить лысую голову.

Спасибо, за улучшенные детали (и лысую башку:)). Я, правда, уже напечатала старую версию и сменила филамент, но потом планирую напечатать улучшенную версию модели, очень уж она мне понравилась. Я разделила файл "Голова" Мэшмиксером на собственно голову, и волосы и напечатала разными цветами. Получилось грубо и пришлось обрабатывать напильником, и я подумала, раз уж ВЫ владеете инструментом, то может я выложу тут получившиеся файлы, а вы их посмотрите, может Вам пригодятся для дальнейшего усовершенствуеования модели? Можно даже сделать несколько вариантов прически, чтоб можно было её менять.

Да, выложите, пожалуйста! У меня вот такая голова получилась:

What software do you use to design ? I use DAZ 3D Studio

Mostly Zbrush, ball joints were made in OnShape

Keep up the good desiging

Looks great! Do you plan on a male version?

Thanks. May be some day, it takes too much time.

Nice work! Thanks for sharing!

This looks amazing!! Does it require anything extra that is not 3d printed?

In theory no, but as it is right now, you probably may need something like paint tape to tighten the joints. It depends on the print settings I guess. At least that's what I did.