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baschz

CR-10 Z-Axis Manual Adjustment Knob (also Ender 3, CR-10 mini, Hictop, Tevo Tornado)

by baschz Aug 21, 2017
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Will this work for the cr10-s with duel z skrews?

I haven't got a dual-z printer myself, but I know someone posted a picture under Makes who has (https://www.thingiverse.com/make:461764) and that looks fine. Not sure if it's a CR-10S exactly. looks like it though.

CR-10 Bigger Z-Axis Manual Adjustment Knob (also Ender 3, CR-10 mini, Hictop, Tevo Tornado)
by Conall

I broke 2 of them just after printing.
I follow the instructions but, I know, I am a newby. It seems to me that the "neck" is fragile.

sorry to hear that. what are your print settings? maybe I can help.

Thanks for the answer. I used a CR-10 Mini with the setup you posted: Resolution 0.2 mm, Infill 30% (I arrived at 40% the second time) and I used the PLA filament of the starting box at 210°C/50°C. I printed it upsidedown as you suggested.
I've read that many users haad success with your files so I think I'm making some big mistakes.
I attached a picture of my fail printings.
Thank you again.

I don’t immediately see what went wrong, since the rest of the prints looks pretty ok. I haven’t heard this happening before, so I’m not thinking the problem is in the design. Posted it on Twitter as well to see if anyone else has an idea of what went wrong

what is the threading for the screw?

I uploads the stl to service.netfabb .com and it was able to repair small nonmanifold in leadscrews areas. I will not post remix as it clutter the site, feel free to check it and reuploads if you can see what error I have, if not, sorry for inconviences

good to hear you mended it, but I haven’t heard this before. maybe corrupted suring download, or maybe the old one? can you tell me the name of the file you used? thanks

I have only "success" with making this error on Slic3r Prusa edition, Cura slice is fine. netfabb make sliceable on Slic3r Prusa edition incase anyone else has this issue. I have image attach shows what happen for me at 25mm Z the left object caps itself. left object is current downloadable and rightside is the netfabb.

The file name making error is "CR10_bigger-Z-axis-manual-adjustment-knob_by-Baschz-Leeft-[fixed (2).stl" and have a SHA256 of 11fb8c763e9b12db6e0d2f2997deecf894fb30bbea947820c0fa2bdf9106f8a2, supplied this so you can check if mines was corruptable in download

I have only used Cura. Thank you for sharing this info

on the bigger one, when I slice it with 0.2 layer leadscrew hole is capped at Z=25.2, but then continues to print again leadscrew hole until 26mm height I wood have to disassembles it on blender to check for error in the wireframes faces

I used the large version today and although it says "fixed" when I printed it all I got between the inner post and outer rim is enough layers just to show the text and that is all. So thin then it just lets the outer rim break loose from the center. This was 2/24/2018 and for my new CR-10 using CURA. Not sure how much thread was to be there but I got less then a thread. Good idea but has problems that need fixed.

Can you explain one more time what happened please, because I don’t fully understand

The area between the center cone large diameter and the outer scalloped rim printed very thin. Seems like it got enough layers for the text to show and then stopped so only about the thickness of about twice the thickness of a printed skirt. I just now pushed on the center post and it lifted this area. Looks like a good solid layer for the text and backing behind and then it looks like a layer of fill that broke away with the post. I can even pull that layer away from the bottom of the hollow cone. Just unfused strings spanning in a somewhat triangular criss-cross.

Thanks for explaining further. Can you maybe post pictures and share your settings? Because frankly, so far to me it sounds like you might have had an issue with the printer or settings, rather than the model. What layer height, infill percentage and number of perimeters did you use? Also temperatures and material. Could it also have been a layer with bad adhesion because of a partial clog and therefor underextrusion?

I'm asking as I haven't heard anyone with this problem yet. Before uploading I have of course test printed the new file and I'v been using that knob since, without any problems at all. I also didn't have any problems with the older file (used it almost daily for 6 months until I changed it for that latest test print), as that particular problem only arose with very specific slicer settings.

Sorry did not record settings. All parts I have done so far have been at 200/60 on temp and all printed and stuck to glass like glue. I will try to print again today. Like it never printed stop layer but continued to print rest of rim and center post.

Looks like you might have forgotten to specify an infill percentage, so it's hollow. Can you break off the whole stem and look inside?

I made this several time...but cant be done cause it can never adapt well to the bar...just few mm but often it come off

I just wanted to let you know that this design will not fit the Anet E10. Mainly because the housing of the upper bearing on the E10 is closed on top. One would have to redesign these housings. Diameter of the spindle on Anet E10 is 8mm.

Thanks for the info!

The knob works also for the Tevo Tornado. The stock cover is not necessary. To gain a little space on the upper side of the spindle, you have to pull the Z stepper axle a little it out of the coppler.

Thanks for the info! I'll include it in the description.

I like this idea.
It seems like all CR 10's are not the same. The top leadscrew bearing on my CR 10 is different to yours. Mine has a printed housing with a ball bearing inside.No seperate cap on the top.
I printed out your knob but the threaded part is too small and won't go on the leadscrew. Interesting as someone else commented their's was too loose!

thanks! and yes, weird. i also daw there are different versions as i don't have a printed y axis idler but a metal one. maybe a reason to take it off-line? or at least edit the text to warn people. thanks for your print and reaction!

My mistake, the knob thread was too large not too small as reported by Casual Geek. My leadscrew is 8mm I guess yours is 10mm? Does yours have the ball bearing inside? My idler is metal.
i can redesign the knob and bearing to suit my machine. i would not remove your design it obviously suits some versions.

I may not have been rigorous enough in testing the fit of the Manual Adjustment Knob, but having just measured the diameter of the Z-Axis Lead Screw, I see that it is 8mm (in round terms!).

This might give some clarification to my earlier comment

Mine is 8mm too but is a 4 start thread I think baschz must have a 10mm single star one on his printer.
I have redrawn the knob to fit mine and printed it out. The bracket needs redesigning to suit my printer.. When i have done this I'll upload the files.

Being impatient and not having the two extra M4 x 10mm screws and nuts I thought I would see if I could get away with just printing the knob from your new design (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2507892) and keeping the lead screw cover from this design.

Delighted to say that it has worked!

CR 10 Z Axis Manual Adjustment Knob and Bearing.
by Caster

glad to hear your mash up worked

I will be interested to see if your design will work for me !

BTW - I very much enjoy your YouTube channel, and first learned about the CR-10 from your videos :-)

Small world, you found me here. Look out for a 3D printed Stirling engine very soon.Just have to make the video, engine runs well.

thanks for checking. please share your design if it's a better fit, because i don't have the time right now redo mine. if i remember correctly mine is 8mm as well, so i might just have made a mistake and been lucky with my first fit, my last print also was too loose. i changed the status of mine to a WIP for now. will look at it asap, but like i said don't have the time to dive into it unfortunately

BTW that is indeed an enjoyable YouYube channel. cool to have found out about it through here :)

Neat idea... not sure if being fresh to 3D Printing and the CR-10 has given rise to a problem for me. It looks to have printed just fine and the Screw Cover was a good fit for what it replaced and for receiving the Manual Adjustment Knob, but I think the diameter of the hole in the knob is too large for the screw on my machine as it doesn't engage with the thread to give it any grip.

hi, thanks! i will look into that. might also be print settings or material used. i myself have only printed in pla yet (and it works fine), but i can imagine wearing out. i'll have a look at the file and print it again later myself. could also just be that i uploaded a previous version. which would be fairly stupid haha. thanks for your comment and print!

it took a bit longer than i hoped, but here's the updated version of the knob