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Monoprice Mini Delta Bed Level Calibrator

by cscheuer Aug 14, 2017
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I add in the fb group, I will add here, for those that have one side of the bed, upgrade your bed clips, print 1mm 2 mm 2.5mm 3mm discs or squares. Print each one 3 times or six times, print each one, one at a time. You can get by, by printing the size closet to what you need, put one of the sizes or two near the towers, adjust the upgraded bed clips down till they are tight, all the M665/M666 stuff also helps but mechanically get the bed in line.

This has been very helpful in finding my issues! I thought my bed was way off. Although it does probably need some optical end stop adjustments, the most interesting thing I found is that your pre-sliced gcode printed a beautiful layer but my gcode sliced from cura printed rather terribly. So I played around with the settings a lot, stole your before and after gcode. Changed the initial layer speed, height, width. Absolute vs relative didn't seem to make a difference, but I tried that since yours appears to be absolute. So any chance you would share your simplify3d settings (printer/profile/etc)? I got what I could from the gcode but I must be missing something because my print is still not there, definitely better, but not acceptable yet. So any help, hints and shared settings would be greatly appreciated! I'll try and post some images.
Thanks! Jen

i have the same printer and a good way to not break the bed when taking off a print is to use a flathead screwdriver

I'm having similar problems, the print wont stick to one side of the print bed.

I am having an issue with the auto-level as well. I printed this very useful test print, but the head digs in on one side and is too high off the bed on another side. Only one of sides seems to print correctly. Is there a way to adjust the algorithm or to bias its results to get a level print? I've loaded a photo of my test print.

The fix is adjusting the endstops on the top of each leg of the tower. Running G28 then G29 P2 V will give you the values of each 'leg' and you'll have to manually move the optical end stops to correct the deviations. It seems for the majority of these printers, they're all off just a bit.

I'm having trouble with this, I see three rows of three numbers each when I run the code you suggested, and I'm just not sure how these numbers correlate to each leg.

G29 P2 V
< -2.209 -2.351 -0.995
< -3.185 -3.327 -1.971
< -2.663 -2.805 -1.449
< ok N0 P15 B10

Thanks for making this. A couple of questions:

  1. Why is the photo not showing the fill like the 3D object shows?
  2. Why the blue shims in the photo? Are these needed to level properly? If so what material is needed?

I have been unable to get satisfactory leveling from my printer, it always runs the head too low in a few spots on the front edge, while printing a bit to far off the plate on the back. It goes so low it even trips the leveling sensors in the front right corner. I thought it was a warped build plate, but when rotating the plate 120deg in either direction the problem did not move to follow the plate.




I believe the simple answer to question 1 is you cancel the print once you see it has successfully printed the outline. There is no need to print the fill.

My Delta is printing in a similar fashion as everyone else has described here. It adheres well on about 2/3 of the plate and is too close on the other areas. It happens in the same area every time. The bed is not warped and looks very level. I can successfully print many objects if I put a raft with several layers first. The raft looks really bad, but the print is able to form on top of it. I also hear the bed leveling clicking as it is printing on that one corner.

I think PointBrink's post from Feb is the key. The post states to run G28 then G29 P2 V to get a report. I will try this, but does anyone have a video on how to, "manually move the optical end stops to correct the deviations?"

Thank you



Is there a manual way to make it only print the perimeter in gcode? I'm using cura and the preview has it do each of the "parts" first before going on. For example, it will fill in the first small 3 triangles and then move on to the outer "models," so I don't think, for me specifically, I can cancel the model when it's done.


Dave, thanks for the reply. I actually bought a Craftbot2, so haven't done much with the MMD but plan to give it to my son to use. I did find some info on Reddit how to read the levels. Then end stops are really a pain to adjust, one of the screws was seized and I needed a pair of needlenose vicegrips to break it loose. AIR it's backward, moving it down makes it more positive. However after significantly reducing the errors between the towers, it still did not print any more level than before.