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CR-10/Ender 3 Wedge Jack

by stageone Aug 12, 2017
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Doesn't work for me on the CR10 S5. It just bends the plate with the drive wheels and ends up sagging just as much.

This is just awesome. I just rotated the hex screw maybe half a turn and now I have a very flattened bed.
Before, I had a big dip in the middle, with the magnetic bed maybe 0.5, 0.75 difference sometimes. Now the differences are very little (this is my bltouch data with a glass bed)
Before :
0 1 2
0 0.088 0.062 0.24
1 0.037 -0.012 0.133
2 0.193 0.112 0.227
Max diff. 0.239
Now (didn't do much to level perfectly the bed honestly).
0 1 2
0 -1.787 -1.855 -1.842
1 -1.760 -1.850 -1.832
2 -1.722 -1.762 -1.702
Max diff. 0.153 with bad spring bed leveling (and the middle is no longer the lowest point as it has been since ever)

Thanks for the thing.

thank you dude! that really worked for me on my ender 3..

Thanks for this WJ.
I seem to be having an issue with getting it to raise - the 2 M3 nuts are placed as in the pictures, however if you tighten the M3 screw, the screw just threads through both the nuts, thus the wedge block part does not move on the lower part.

Am I doing something wrong or have I missed something? I seem to think that one of the nuts must be able to turn freely (in the wedge part) in order for the screw to actually push the wedge block.

I think I understood what I was doing wrong. I was assembling it like the one on the left with two nuts. I took out the left most nut and I inserted the head of the screw in the hole from the base all the way to the right most groove. Now it goes back and forward as intended.

Will give that a try, makes sense - thanks!

I have the same problem, did you solve it?

I didn't solve it - I printed a different version instead.
No matter what I tried, I couldn't figure out how the wedge part could work correctly without a free turning nut. One must be fixed and the other free.

Could you please make a version that is 5mm shorter than v1.5 for Ender 3?

I had some time tonight to build version 2. I'm doing a test print. If all goes well the files would be up tonight. If not then likely tomorrow.

Version 2 now available.

I'm thinking about using this. But how do you install it on Ender 3? In the middle under the heating bed there is the temp sensor. I don't think it's a good idea to have this wedge jack press against the temp sensor..?

look at the pic of the post you'll see that it is installed not in the middle but in the left side near the nuts.

Ok, but one would want to push the middle up, not the left side. Anyways, I now use a mirror on top that is perfectly flat.

Printing now in PETG. Will post pics and report. Thanks for this. Hope it works fotp. (Fresh off the printer)

Dumb question, but what are these used for?

Not a dumb question at all! On some CR-10's the build plate can sag in the center and edge. This wedge helps push the bed back in to a more proper position from the center. makes it more level overall.

FYI, this doesn't work on the new CR-10S with the factory insulated bed. It's too high by several mm. Besides, the bed insulation is spongy, preventing a solid purchase and hides the wiring, making safe placement nearly impossible.
Nice idea for older machines, though. I wish it had some way of keeping itself from falling apart when not under tension...

I am realizing the same issue with this on my CR-10S. Did you find an alternative to fixing it? Just the center of my bed is low no matter what I do

I did, and I'm ashamed to tell you that the "solution" that's been working just great for me for the past year has been a paper towel folded up and jammed under the bed. It exerts just enough pressure to flex the plate back to flat. I was a little worried about paper under a heated bed, but the insulation does its job, and things never really get that hot on the underside. YMMV.

Thanks for the reply! By "under the bed" do you mean under a piece of glass/mirror/metal that you can remove? Or did you do something under the actual CR-10 heated bed-base (where this wedge part would have gone)

I've experimented with some painters tape, stuck on top of the CR-10 heated base in the center. It helped a little, but I was hoping this wedge would be a better option.

The second option. I just jammed the paper towel between the underside of the insulated bed and the metal frame that the bed itself mounts to. I tried a couple versions of folding until the thinness was right to have enough pressure to push the center of the bed up just enough to flatten it out. The paper towel is a nice medium because it conforms to the wiring under there, won't damage the insulation, and will compress a little if I need to make monir adjustments.

Thanks for fixing this to use sane bolt/nut sizes.

Way too small. Doesn't reach the bed by about a quarter inch. Also, there's no real way to tighten it once it's underneath, and you can't put it in the center of the bed anyway because of the thermistor. This seemed like a good idea until I actually put it together.

I ended up scaling the model up to 4/3 of its original size in Cura (4/3 so that I can use a 4mm screw and nuts), and it fits perfectly now.

interesting, I had the opposite problem, see above.

It depends on what you have on top of your print bed. This thing is probably designed with the original glass plate in mind. I have replaced the glass plate with a fiber glass one. Since the fiber glass plate is thinner, I have to move the bed up, increasing the distance between the base and the bed. The proper size for the wedge depends on the thickness of what ever you have on top of your print bed. It would be great if this could be made parametric :)

I see your point, but that's not my issue. I have a mirror tile on my bed, which is about 2/3 the thickness of the stock glass plate. Assuming the jack is designed for the stock glass, if anything, it should be a little loose on my machine, and yours for that matter.
As it is, the issue seems to be that the newest versions of the CR-10S are a bit different than the older CR-10, as noted in my original comment at the top.

Sorry, I actually meant to reply to DonStauffer's comment. I understand that your issue is the bottom insulation. I'm afraid there's not much you can do if you want to tackle the sagging issue except removing the insulation. My print bed came without the insulation, and I do not really miss it. I have never measured the time it takes to heat the bed up, but it's only a couple of minutes. Once it's heated up, temperature remains stable. Maybe that would be an option?

Regarding "Support for jack_wedge is a good idea. All other parts do no require any support."

Did you mean Jack_base rather than jack_wedge? I don't see why jack_wedge would need supports, but Jack_base might, although I'm wondering if laying it down and relying on bridging for the nut set would work. What do you think?

Also I presume PETG might be heat-resistant enough for this. Do you agree?

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Awesome, are you still working on this? The sag is driving me nuts. Very keen on a version which adjusts down :)

Also might be an idea to create a plate for it to slot into, leveraging the 6 bolts from the belt.

I love this idea. I understand how tightening the screw will raise the jack, but what mechanism is used to lower it? Will the weight of the bed supposedly push the top piece back along the track as the screw loosens and creates a gap?

If you're still interested Version 2 now raises and retracts.

This particular design is used only to raise the bed. Basically if you need to adjust it down you’d have to back off the screw and reset it. I’ll keep it in mind for a revision. Seems easy enough.

Comments deleted.

Thanks for sharing, but there is a proiblem with the file "Jack_Lift_v1.5.stl", could you check it? :D

Uploaded another copy. Let me know if it doesn't work for you.

Hi StageOne, now works, thanks again