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RevK

Russian Doll Random Maze Puzzle Gift Box (Updated Xmas 2018)

by RevK Jun 29, 2017
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Total waste of filament. The tolerances of the cylinder are so huge, that the 3 pins can move in different lanes, Do not print.

I'm not sure which files to print, as there are so many in the download folder. Which files to print if I want to achieve the first example photo? Thanks!

do you happen to have the old model that used to be up? I printed it a while back but lost mine. I just personally like the 2 nub model more.

The link on the description allows you to make any combination you like, including the 2 nub model.

This is awesome, thank you for this puzzle ! I print them in 0.15 with a 0.5mm nozzle with a wood filament.

I started with the easy one and tried to generate a random puzzle with the generator.
But my pieces are not in ascending order sizes (like in your example). My 1st part height is bigger than the other parts !

Is this normal ?

The 1st part is usually taller than the second, but they should fit properly. It will depend on what parameters you pick.

I like so much this puzzle. I printed the hard 10x70 version. Any people have the solution of the three layers?

Oh man the inside maze is diabolical! LOL Nice update. I printed the previous version and they were great.

Hello,

I made a easter egg maze with your nice design...

If it´s not OK for you, that I published it not as a Remix or so, let me know.

Link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3569696

Easter Eggs (with Egg maze and drawers)

It is on a CCA licence, so you can, obviously.
Thanks for asking though.
They are all over esty even, some without attribution (which is annoying).
Have fun.

hi, do you mind if i print a couple of these and sell them to people in a facebook group i am in? i will be giving plenty of attribution. it is such a great design for the purpose of geocaching, (planting containers around the globe with logbooks inside and giving clues and coordinates online). thanks

Hello:
Thanks for your (very) good job.
I've a question... How can I put apart every piece of the scad file in order to make an .stl and print one by one in different colors?
Thank you...

Depends what you use - I have a simple menu item.
Or use the link to make each piece as a separate part/stl file.

"Part to make" option saved my day! :-D My mama said "read first, ask later".
Thanks again, ...

Man, you're the evilest person on Earth.

Comments deleted.

im about to become the worst uncle known to man kind

Could be worst, I am going to be looking for a new wife. That is if she doesn't kill me first with it. Fantastic job!

I want to say thanks, I have been printing these for awhile through most of your iterations and have loved the steady stream of improvements.
The newest update I noticed the nubs no longer line up with the entry location (or probably park location actually) this leads to the lid being offset unless it is put on in a certain orientation. Also is there a way have the previous version of the base so they are flush with the cutout for the nub to pass through? I know the new way is probably mechanically superior but the old way was aesthetically nicer. I included pictures for reference. Love the work.

The final mis-alignment is because I now allow the number of external sides to be not a multiple of the number of nubs. If (as before) they are a multiple, then it always aligns. If not, you have to look for a mark on the lid and maze to spot how to start the maze to ensure it finishes correctly. I made the ends smaller to avoid them being caught/turned when undoing the outer. It may be possible for me to make that an option, I'll have to take a look in to it.

Thanks for the reply. I'll give it a shot. I think I got thrown off because you changed the default to 3 nubs but left the default number of sides at the previous setting.

I have added an option for "Inside base full width" (W) to allow the full width inner bases with grooves, let me know if that works OK for you.

Perfect, I appreciate it. I generated one and will be printing it out.

I have just added a TEN box example, which I am test printing now :-)

This thing you made just keeps getting better and better. I love it. And now I'd like to ask some questions just to clear up some things (seeing as I'm just now discovering this customizer stuff) and ask for some 'wish list' changes.

1) Any way you can beef up the nubs a bit? I printed one part and they seem much more wimpy now compared to the sample part I made before from your original post way back sometime.
2) In your customizer, can you make a notation that explains which part ('n=') part #1, #2 etc is? I.E. is #1 the inner most or the outer most part?
3) What does Helix mean in the sense of this puzzle box?
4) Maze complexity. Which direction +/- is which?? I assume +10 is harder but I'm the type that hates to 'assume' things.
5) Park Vertically?. What dos that mean (I know what vertical and horizontal mean. just not sure how you are using them in this case.)
6) Number of outer sides (s). If 0 is round, what shape does one get with a choice of 1 or 2??
7) "I - Text (initials) inside end". Does that really mean putting initials way down inside on the end?
8 Can you please make it so that we can add text to all sides and not just one side???? I tried adding a bit of text and it just chopped off both ends of the sentence to fit it on only one side. And I'd like to keep the text size larger rather then scaling it way down so it can't be read.
9) Someone else asked about the fonts and you pointed out the F & T settings, but how is that suppose to help someone make a choice? I seriously doubt that many people actually know all the different fonts that are installed on their computer. And are we suppose to just type in the name of the font assuming we know which one we want?
10) What is the "A&A" logo, rather what does that stand for?

Sorry for the long post and all the questions and such. I'm just commenting on questions that came to mind as a new person seeing this (customizer working) for the first time.
Again, this is a genus/awesome/wonderful and I thank you for making this available to the rest of us.

1) I too wanted beefier nubs. After playing around with the settings, I found that making the maze symmetrical and increasing the maze thickness will also increase the size of the nubs.

Almost all of these can be found by just trying them out, but here goes...

1) y and Z are clearance on the nub, and so make it smaller. Setting lower values makes bigger, as does adjusting the maze spacing (z). The original maze boxes had bigger maze spacing.

2) There is some notation, but yes, part 1 is the most inner part. The examples use the same numbering.

3) The helix setting is the level of helix, 0 means non helical, the default is 3, so a triple helix. If you have nubs and helix higher than 1 they generally have to match. There are examples of helix 0, 1, 2, and 3, which clearly show the difference.

4) Complexity is simplest just tried, but +10 is more "complex" in that it is likely to have longer dead end paths, -ve creates somewhat different style of maze, but really, just try it. My blog post explains more https://www.revk.uk/2019/01/maze-complexity.html

5) The final "park" where the maze closes, and there is a ridge to click in to place, can either be vertical or horizontal, simple as that. Try it.

6) The number of outer sides makes a regular polygon, which obviously does not work with 1 or 2. Again, try it!

7) Yes, (I) is text in the inside at the bottom. I actually used this to number a set of maze boxes.

8) Err, it shows text{\text} in the help - simply separate lines with a backslash and it allows all sides. Similarly for text on ends, you can do different text on each end like this.

9) All this does it put the font name in the OpenSCAD text object. What choice of fonts you have on the machine running OpenSCAD, and what they are called, is entirely up to you! OpenSCAD has a Help->Font List option to list what fonts you have and the names to use. Only caveat is that "Noto Emoji" is used if the first character on the line is >=0x80 (typically unicode such as a smiley).

10) The A&A logo is just that, the logo for A&A (Andrews & Arnold Ltd). It is one the inside of the lid. Look at the examples!

But really, if you are not sure what an option does, just try it :-)

P.S. I have updated the examples yesterday as I found that OpenSCAD was managing to make non-manifold STL files in some cases. Should be better now. But watch out for updates from time to time, you can see change notes on GitHub.

he's just trying to "mimic" my remix (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2980535) that I did!!! but FAILED! (the slanted path at the bottom in mine is to keep it shut while solving the others)

remix of "Russian Doll Maze Puzzle Box"

Who is trying to mimic your remix?

This current design has a small ridge just before the final position so it clicks in to place and does not move when solving the other layers. How well that works does depend on the print tolerance and clearances though.

Hope that helps.

Does anyone have the 2D map of the hard 10x70 maze ?
I'm stuck to put it together before offering it !!

This is amazing and your site to generate them is even better. Thank you very much!!

These are really great puzzles to print. The only issue I have (other than solving it :)) is with text printing too large and getting cut off. I am not finding where I can find the fonts and settings to size the text to fit. There are several fields in the tool to adjust text and font, but I cannot seem to find the right values to change the text or the values that can be used for fonts. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

There is F=Text font, and T= Scale side text (i.e. if too long), which should do what you need.
Also, obviously, you can edit the scad file produced.

What a great idea. Absolutely first-class, the implementation. The possibility to create puzzles with your own texts is perfect. Thank you very much for your work!

You should be OK to just reprint the inner part once I have uploaded the new files. As for the outer - there are three ways you can put it together, and only one aligns ( :-) ) there is a small mark on the lid and the end of the next part which you can align to get it right. Alternatively, print a model with the outer sides that are a multiple of the number of sides (e.g. 6 size and 3 nubs).

It looks like this was a recently introduced error, I'll update files shortly. https://www.me.uk/puzzlebox has been updated already.

That is rather odd. I'll look in to it.

Very nice puzzle. Awesome.

I've printed the easy_10x70mm-parts. Unfortunately the puzzle does not fit because the beginning slot from the next puzzle is not in line with the outer part. I have added a picture so you can understand what i mean. Please fix that or remove the files. So the next one does print them.

Next i will generate my own puzzle with the generator.

Uploading new files now.

Amathing!!!!! And the customisable maze generator indeed takes it to the next level, great idea, thumbs up to you and your son for sharing this!

I am currently designing my maze using the generator and I have a question related to the number of nubs.

Does going for more than just 1 nub have any other implication other than increasing difficulty of the maze (since the maze supposedly goes around the 360° instead of 180°)?

Would you recommend to go for just 1 nub? or maybe one of the reaons for going for 2 is that they tend to snap with use?

Thanks in advance.

It is more stable with more than one nub, but does mean the maze is simpler, not harder (same maze at 180 degrees if two nubs).
Best to try it and see... I tend to use 2 nubs, hence the default.
Also the helix is related, you cannot have 2 nubs and a helix of 1 for example.
The number of outside faces on the box is also related, we make a multiple of nubs, else the box can only be solved one way around.

After reading Macafly84 post and your reply, I believe he mis-worded his intended statement. I think he was inferring that having only 1 nub should generate a maze that uses the entire surface area thus increasing the difficulty instead of having 2 nubs that only use half the surface area for the maze (duplicate paths 180 DEG from each other) as you mentioned.
So my question is, if someone does choose only one nub, do you actually use the entire surface area for a single more difficult maze??

Yes.
Try it!
Also, since that post, I have made default now 3 nubs, and allowed outer sides to not be a multiple to make trickier boxes.

This is excellent - thank you. The only problem I had was, when using your website to generate the .scad file for a 2-piece puzzle, when it's in the starting state (both pieces assembled together as much as possible) the octagon on the cap is 1/16th of a turn out of alignment with the octagon of the outer piece.

EDIT: looking at it more closely, I think it's because the two parts collide (as they tighten) before the nubs have reached their final position, so this prevents the nubs moving to their final position. Maybe if I sand a layer or two off the bottom of the outer piece I can make them fit properly, or maybe the inner piece is slightly too long - not sure yet.

EDIT2: ah, it was the thickness of the "park ridge" - I had to file it down considerably to get it to reach the endstop. Now it aligns correctly.

Sadly that is one area where it may need fine tuning depending on the printer. There is also a vertical-part option which may be easier to face it over the ridge.

Unfortunately for me it doesn't work. I just prindet de 75mm version but they are too big and is impossible to insert one maze inside another one maze. The step/mm of my printer are great..

The design has a clearance to allow the parts to fit together, which is currently default of 0.3mm, but if you use the link to make an openSCAD you can choose a larger clearance to allow for your printer. I suggest making a small test set of parts first.

Great! Works beautiful and prints ease.

Has anyone figured out a way to print out the mazes in 2d so you can printout the maze solves for each puzzle?

I wrote a little python script for those who want to generate a bunch of these things from the command line. It will download and render however many nested layers that you configure it to: https://gist.github.com/ex-nerd/2413d8e6f876b3857bde552f61235071

Thanks for the great thing! Nice easy print.

I suggest removing or updating the puzzle-20-10 files. They seems to use an older version (single pin, less lock in closed position) and may give someone the the wrong first-impression on how excellent this thing is.

Thanks a lot!

This is awesome, thank you for creating this. I'm wondering if its possible to get the mazes in 2D form so I can print out the solutions?

Thanks,
Michael

Comments deleted.

Sadly the auto generated files fail occasionally. This was the inner of a 100x100mm maze. Actually about 50mm too tall and blanked off.

All new files now...

Great gift idea (to give money and have the receiver work for it).
Printed in PLA on a Flashforge Creator Pro with 0.1mm layers and it all fits perfectly.
(sliced with Simplify3D)
To further add to this comment: I also tried printing this with 0.2mm layers and then it is not a good fit. So very fine printing is needed!

Made it with 0.2 mm layers and worked fine for me (Prusa i3 MK3, PLA).

Where can I find the OpenScad Files to generate unique mazes?

Edit: I'm dumb - found in the description.

Does the OpenSCAD files make a new maze each time it loads the file?

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Love the idea!

However I have a problem with mine.
Once they're printed it is really stiff to assemble, gets stuck multiple times.
How can I make it so it doesn't get stuck?

Print them .5% or smth like that bigger/smaller so there are more tolerances and use smaller layer heights as they might get stuck on them, i also had PLA melt a bit when too much pressure is applied in frustration. Maybe ABS slides better.

Ended up printing the smallest at 102% next 104% next 106% etc. I think I could of got away with 1%
Intervals but I left it at 2%.

The biggest one is a bit loose at the very top but still works perfectly

How can your generator be configured so the maze is in the inside of the lid?

That would be very fun!

I would like the maze on the inside as well. That would be great

That is now an option - have fun.

Comments deleted.

now give us the really evil maze

These are great, every year for xmas I give my little cousins some cash and the past few years I started doing it in creative ways.
the past year I mad an elaborte zip and duct tape box wiht a window so you could see the cash, and aso put layers of glitter as traps inside.

This year I am going to give these and hide them in the house and have them locate them with a tile tracker.
I wonder if there is a way to put a clear window using clear filament so you can somewhat see an object inside.

THANK YOU for this. starting a test print today.

the instructions are not very clear on how to use the puzzle generators. anyone got an easy, I don't have to learn a programming language, tutorial on how to do it?

There is a link to a web page that makes it easy now. Try it.

I'm a bit late here, but:

1) Follow the instructions in the Thing description to download the .scad files using the magic http://e.gg/puzzlebox.cgi/30/20/o links (you can change the numbers & letters at the end of the links' URLs in order to generate different sizes/types of objects, as per the instructions in the description).
2) Once you have the .scad files downloaded, go and download and install OpenSCAD (http://www.openscad.org/downloads.html).
3) Then open your downloaded files, one at a time, in OpenSCAD (in Windows, at least, simply double-clicking the downloaded .scad files should open them in OpenSCAD automatically).
4) With each file, once it's opened in OpenSCAD, press the "Render" button in the toolbar (2nd from the right; or hit the F6 key on your keyboard), which will parse the code used to produce the model and render it as a 3D model.
5) You can then hit the "Export as STL" button (rightmost button in the toolbar) to save the rendered 3D model as a .stl file that you can open in your slicer software, ready to print it.

Remember that each time you download a .scad file from those magic links, it will give you a completely different maze by randomising some of the parameters at the top of the .scad file that are used to render the 3D model :)

There's no need to actually learn the OpenSCAD language itself - all you need to do is open the .scad files in OpenSCAD, render them, and export them, which is something that will likely prove very useful to you in the future, as OpenSCAD is a moderately-popular way of designing 3D models (for example, the Prusa i3 machines' printed parts are all written with OpenSCAD).

Good luck!

Comments deleted.

The peices dont seem to snap in place as well as other puzzles, I now have an issue where one of the inside puzzles has opened up while trying to solve the largest one but it can't move anymore, so have to take them all apart again. Just an obervation, maybe some blu-tac would solve.

Just to confirm for those who asked, it took me around 9 hours to print, and that was with 0.2mm layers, 10mm infill and all the parts printed at the same time.

I have the same problem :-/ .

I have made the "snap" better and the default to have it horizontal not vertical now, so that should be a lot better now.

still working on the remix. took a break though. I am running low on PLA so I will need to test in ABS. concerned that it may not work in ABS though. some improvements that I am working on:

options for inner vs. outer maze.
auto layer generation in python through openscad command line

new maze features:
staggering - gives the illusion of larger maze.
adjustable latch point (though may remove and just fix cap)

OK. decided to fix the cap. while I was at it I added some notches for better grip around the cap (just ergonomics). so far, looking good. I need to test it with maze on the outside next. still not sure if they will fit but looks like they will. I left the latch point but set it to 0.0 ("none") for now.

works good. post it soon.

Comments deleted.

Neat puzzle and prints well but IMO it would be better if the maze was on the inner walls so as to keep it hidden, at the moment as you progress you reveal the maze which makes it substantially easier because you can see the route to back track through :)

See latest version :-)

I would like to print this, but I don't know what the average time for the printing is. I have to get it done in 48 hours and at the looks of it one of them takes 7 hours to print. Is this true or do I have an error. I have a Luzbot Mini and ABS filament if some one could reply that would be helpful. : )

Took me 9 hours. Left it on over night and in the morning all parts were done and work well.

  1. this can have large parts. recommend PLA
  2. time can vary on print speed. my attempt was at 60 mm per second.

quote (self): "By the way, making a remix. I'll post a new generator for it!"

i would love to use the generator but the links are dead, looking forward to being able to make my own

New files and link now - try that.

Every time I try to print the outer lid piece on the largest size, I get an error on my printer. I've tried slicing it multiple times and on different computers. Any tips?? I love this puzzle and really want to finish it!

Is this still active?? I can't get anything to come up when I click the URL's.

It was working a few days ago.

It’s not working for me now ethier though.

This is very cool, printing now!

I felt it would be good to have some more control over the mazes generated to make them easier/harder. Not sure what algorithm you're using but would be good to be able to try different ones. Have you considered releasing the CGI script with your current method so people could extend it?

As an example, I've implemented another maze generation method using recursive backtracking in Ruby. This algorithm is biased to have fewer dead ends and follows long, winding paths. I'm using this for the outer layer of a 3-maze box, so that it has a different feel to the inner layers.

I'd be quite keen to have a unicursal maze option too, which has no dead ends but one path taking up the entire grid. I haven't yet found a good algorithm for doing that though.

Anyway, if you did decide to release the script on Github or somewhere I'd be keen to translate some different methods to whatever you're using and send a pull request.

EDIT: also attaching .scad with maze generated this way, so you can see how differently it comes out...

can you port it to python 3.6?

Never mind. i'll diy a full remix!

Anyone using the horizontal expansion setting in Cura to get these to fit? Or what other methods and settings are you using to get the right fit?

no need if you have the generator. By the way, making a remix. I'll post a new generator for it!

This is a really cool idea. However, they seemed to fit a little too tight. My inner ones would get constantly stuck on the way in and out of the container one. I'm thinking that shrinking each smaller size by an additional 0.1 or 0.2 mm would help a lot. Did anyone else run into this problem?

I'm using a Makergear M2 with Hatchbox PLA printing at 0.2mm resolution.

from the images, revK seems to have printed it in abs. abs shrinks quite a bit.

Great design, in my case all parts printed beautifully. But I find a flaw when I gave some to friends and family. When they were trying to take them apart by moving them to all sides, the inner parts started to become loose and pull out, making it impossible then for the outer parts to come out.They all became useless because there is no way to get the parts in/out with the inner parts pulled out. I am surprised no one else has commented on this.

I had this same issue occur with multiple layers of the puzzle, the inner one came loose, and the outer one could not navigate back down towards closed to move onto the correct 'open' path.

It seems to need a tighter retention clip mechanism to solve this, or perhaps another way could be a labyrinth design that does not require back-tracking to open.

where is the generator?

Thank you so much for excellent and unbelievably smart THING! I'm making a ten ply maze to aMAZE friends!

To anyone who cant seem to get it work, use the URL as he instructs, only small adjustment should be put in use on the downloaded scad file code, or at least thats what i suppose and how it worked for me.

where is the generator?

Seems to be a very cool thing to print, what is hard to find here actually! Going to make it tomorrow and feature on our Instagram @3d.passion! Great job!

The attached STL is so corrupt it actually ruined my hotend. Be careful if you download the attached files. I normally triple check but with so many votes and likes I assumed like a fool.

I just downloaded and printed this without any problems at all. It might be an issue on your end.

Nice work!
But does the "nipples" as you say gets worn out?

Is there a way to print a solution for each part, as I had troubles even working out the route to put the parts together? :(

Sending as Christmas presents and don't want to suffer tears if they can't be opened. :)

If you want a solution you can find one on my make http://www.thingiverse.com/make:451704

Russian Doll Random Maze Puzzle Gift Box (Updated Xmas 2018)

It can be made easy to close by a path running from top to bottom in which the knobs slides and clips at the bottom

So, odd issue. I can post a pic tomorrow if it helps. You can see in an earlier post I made the labyrinth cylinders I made. Very cool. I am making a single puzzle cylinder now that’s a bit taller (inner height of 110mm).

3 of 3 prints have resulted in the same issue (though I blamed the first two on poor adhesion, the third one was stuck down quite well) where the puzzle cylinder starts going wonky about 80% of the way up and the layers don’t adhere to anything. The lid that prints simultaneously right next to it is always fine. This last attempt was even a reslice because I modified the model in Blender to carve a number in the bottom, so it was a slightly different model with new slicing - same result.

Anyone know of any special considerations for prints over 80mm or so tall? This has me puzzled - no pun intended.

I'm looking to change the dimensions slightly so the inner box holds something specific. I need to change the inner diameter (id=15 to maybe id=20) and the height (ih=75 to maybe ih=90). I'm going to print some tests to see how all this works, but is there anything I should be specifically concerned with? I'm assuming since the spacing is 5 units, the height and diameter need to be multiples of 5?

Also, when you set print lid=1, does it print a lid based on the params of the current layer? For instance, could I set lid=1 for the innermost layer and get a lid for it at that size?

Thanks!

Actually - I think I got it - modifying the URL inserts new parameters. Spiffy!

Oh, I get it now. The maze is generated by the cgi that you download the OpenSCAD file from. Therefore changing dimensions is a problem. @RevK, is there any chance you'd be willing to share the generation code so that we might play with the parameters a bit?

I've made a bit of a change to your code that allows me just to change the "lvl" parameter, and ir, and or depending if it have boxes inside, or outside of it.
// Puzzle box by Adrian Kennard www.me.uk
// /75/15/5/ii
lvl=4; //Box level
p=2; // Paths
m=0.2; // Margin/clearance
s=5; // Spacing (unit)
h=14; // Height in units
w=14+(6(lvl-1)); // Width in units increments by 6
bs=15; // Base sides
bh=8; // Base height
iw=2; // Inside wall thickness
ih=75+(iw
(lvl-1)); // Inside height
eh=10; // Extra height
wt=3; // Wall thickness
id=15+(((wt2)+3)(lvl-1)); // Inside diameter [previous box id+(wt2)+3]
bd=id+(wt
2)+12; // Base diameter id+(wt*2)+12
st=3; // Start point
ex=10; // Exit point
lid=0; // Print lid
base=1; // Print base
is=lvl-1; // Inside Russian
os=1; // Outside Russian
k=0; // Skew
i=0; // Inside (maze inside lid)

There is more needed than this. and I'm actually getting all sorts of compilation errors now.

Edit: The compilation errors were fixed with a restart of the app. Still working out the maths.

So, I have a code that I can just change the lvl number, on to adjust everything but height, and the maze array.
I made a larger array for another layer, but there are sections that are islanded, that you can go around, and you can do full 360 degreed rotation though a couple paths.

Other than, the bottom row needing to be all 1s and 0s, and the left half needing to match the right half, what other rules are there for the numbers in the maze array?

how do you change the maze? I always get the same one.

You have to click the link to download new ones. If you grab the STL files in the files tab, they are always the same. If you click the links in the body of the description, it generates a new one each time you download the file. It appears that you can modify at least the inner height, inner diameter, and stepping size (as well as how many boxes deep) but changing the values in the URL itself. Testing that now.

I created one with the parameters /160/15/5/iiii and I get an error in OpenSCAD of:

"ERROR: CGAL error in CGAL_Nef_polyhedron3(): CGAL ERROR: assertion violation! Expr: pe_prev->is_border() || !internal::Plane_constructor::get_plane(pe_prev->facet(),pe_prev->facet()->plane()).is_degenerate() File: /opt/mxe/usr/x86_64-w64-mingw32.static/include/CGAL/Nef_3/polyhedron_3_to_nef_3.h Line: 251"

That repeats with different line numbers. Thoughts?

locate the render() statement. Replace with render(convexity=2) and it will work with a more recent version of OpenSCAD (tested with 2018.01.06).

Use the 2015 version of OpenSCAD - something changed in the newer versions causing the error above.

where is the code for generating the puzzle with more than 4 shells. i would like to make one with 6 layers so each layer can proceed through the colors of the rainbow

You just add more 'i's and 'o's

It would be nice if the lid was separate. Other than that, I really like this. xD

+1 for option to put the maze on the inside to hide it.

Kadah,

Just add:

piece = "baseAndLid"; // ["baseOnly":Generate Base, "lidOnly":Generate Lid, "baseAndLid":Generate Base and Lid]

to the top of the generated code and replace the following two lines:

if(base)translate([lid?(id+s*4+iw*2+wt*2)/2:0,0,0])makebase();
if(lid)translate([base?-(id+s*4+iw*2+wt*2)/2:0,0,0])makelid();

with the following code:

if(piece=="lidOnly") {
    makelid();
}
else if(piece=="baseOnly") {
    makebase();
}    
else {
    if(base)
        translate([lid?(id+s*4+iw*2+wt*2)/2:0,0,0])
            makebase();
    if(lid)
        translate([base?-(id+s*4+iw*2+wt*2)/2:0,0,0])
            makelid();
}

Then you will be able to generate either piece individually or both as per original code.
If you are interested, I have made a remix to demonstrate that among other things.

It looks like in OpenSCAD you can change the variable Lid=1 to be Lid=0 and save, render, export.

I have not made that option in my code (yet) - but you could play around with the openscad :-)

how would i go about putting the maze inside so it's inverted, so you can't see the maze?

Great puzzle - and a step up from the 2 piece puzzle by sneakypoo. (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:201097)

puzzle-75-15-5-ii-box.stl seems to have manifold problems that Slic3r can't handle; importing to Blender, fixing using 3d printing plugin, then exporting seems to have cured these.

Labyrinth Gift Box

I ran into the same problem, but didn't realize how bad it was and ended up with a giant ball of spaghetti filament. Could you upload the new stl you exported from Blender as a remix or something? I've never used Blender, but I could probably figure it out if you can't.

I also just tried to print this and didn't notice that slic3r had put gaps in the build for that piece. Looks like I'll have to find a different model print. It's a shame the uploaded files are faulty.

The models in this remix seem to be fine, but the top cover is in the same file as the faulty piece. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2607374

Russian Doll Maze Puzzle Box