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sschueller

Anycubic Kossel Plus Inductive auto level probe mount

by sschueller Jun 18, 2017
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Bonjour le capteur fonctionne avec la vitre sur le plateau merci

Thank you for this. My probe didn't support 5 V so I ended up wiring it with resistors to the power supply. I'll post a photo later.

Have you been able to build Marlin 1.1.9? Your Marlin 1.1.3 builds and works but I'd like to build a newer version. With both 1.1.9-bugfix and 2.0.0-bugfix, my G29 produces a "out of bound" error.

Probing individual points does work.

I cannibalised my Anycubic Kossel and am using the board in a Creality Ender 3 now with Marlin 2.0-bugifx so I can't be of much help. However check here https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/10538 regarding "out of bound" error.

Thanks! I sorted it out. A triangle with one side that's 38mm and another side that's 28mm and has hypotenuse of 47.1mm.

After I put #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE 48 in my Confuguration.h all was right in the world. The old margin was 10mm.

Any chance you can share your modified Marlin 1.1.9 (or 2.0.0)? I'm having similar issues that I haven't quite been able to work out.

Thanks!

Sure. LOOKS TO SEE HOW TO ATTACH FILES

I'm using the Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus. If you've the smaller one don't use this firmware. The geometry will be way off.

This should work and a little explanation. I'm using this firmware as a start.

https://github.com/jheyman/KosselLinearPlusCustomz/tree/master/firmware/Marlin-1.1.9_customized

From this excellent article.

http://jheyman.github.io/blog/pages/Anycubic3DPrinter/

I've attached a zip file for the whole works after my edits in Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h and it works for me.

After you flash the firmware with the Arduino IDE and when you print this sensor holder get two wrenches that fit the sensor nut. Heat and clean off the nozzle, make sure there is no filament there and lower the head till it touches the bed (the nozzle should be cold first).

Adjust the height of the sensor. Put your hand on the power switch and send a M502 and then a G33 to the printer. I use Pronterface for that.

https://www.pronterface.com/

The M502 will reset your firmware eeprom and the G33 will do an auto calibration. If you have an clips on the heated bed then the sensor may smack them. I had some but replaced it with a print that does not go over the top of the print bed. The sensor can come as close to the edge as it likes without hitting anything.

If the cold nozzle hits the heat bed, turn off the printer and lower the sensor a little bit. Turn the printer on, send another G33 and see it it repeats. If the head does not touch the heated bed that's good.

Once the G33 finishes, send a M500 and that will save your delta printer's geometry. Send a test print that has a start code of G28 (home) followed by G29 (autolevel bed) and use Baby Z Step to dial in the height to just right. When the print starts that menu item will show up.

Check your print! I did this and had the sensor just a little too low. The printed filament was just barely rubbing on the sensor and that made for some bad prints. You want the sensor at the height were the head does not touch the bed but not low enough that it could rub on some slightly raised filament you just printed.

Once I got the right sensor height I tightened the sensor nuts and it is locked in place.

Whatever value that gets you from the babysteps add to your z probe height in the menu, save it and you should be good. Any new print jobs should have that G28 and G29 in them after that.

Thanks for sharing! This is very helpful as I am relatively new to Kossel style printers. I do actually have the smaller version for the Kossel linear, so I am going to have to make some adjustments. Outside of the values in the Delta Settings section, is there anything that needs changed in regards to geometry?

Quick update: I adjusted the Delta Settings to reflect the smaller Kossel. G33 runs fine down to an acceptable standard deviation. After saving these settings with M500 I ran auto bed level with G29. After auto leveling, I used pronterface to move the print head around the bed and at Z0 the nozzle is touching the bed in the center but several millimeters above the bed in the positive y-direction. Any ideas what's causing this?

Thanks working like a charm, i would like more prob points though, any idea which field would change that? cheers

Steals alot off space. I will make a remix to set the probe sensor in front of the fan between the rod ends.

Anyone available to help with this? I have an npn sensor. I have the brown going to 12v on the TriGorilla Board, Blue to the Neg, and black to the z-min sensor. The pin that is closest to the edge of the board. the light on the sensor will not turn off, I have a 10k resistor between the ground and sensor and a 15k on the ground wire. Running M119 in repetier says all switches are open, but when I try to trigger the probe it still says open. Any thoughts?

I just wanted to know if you managed to autocalibrate with this method or only autolevel?

Hello,
in the image of the board is the blue cable (signal) connected to the edge of the board. I found this here http://www.xcsource-pic.com/TE627-E-10-9.jpg and so the signal would be switched to the 5V !? is that a mistake?
And here in the PDF https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2485534 you can see it even better!
LG

Trigorilla port documentation

If you have a 5V probe (not all appear to work on 5V) then you can directly connect it to the three z-min pins. On my probe blue is the signal and black is - and brown is +. It should say on the side of the probe.

mine has the same name, it works now. with me was blue -, brown + and black signal. how do i get out how far i need to screw the probe to the heatbed?
LG

Just enough so that it triggers, then adjust the offset between the nozzle and the triggered distance in Marlin

Has anyone has an issue of using the firmware liked to this having the printer run G29 but still not be level mine always prints higher on one side and lower on the other it works fine when printing small items in the centre but the further you move out the larger the difference to the point where it is printing in mid air on one side and smashing into the bed on the other.

I have always had this issue and thought that levelling might fix it but no still happens I have rotated the bed and the issues doesn't change still the same point on the bed is high and low. I have tightened all the belts and still no change. I have even gone as far as completely disabling the machine and rebuilding it from scratch and again the same problem. I then tried paper shims under the high side to try and get it closer to the bed but that also had no effect and the distance it was above the bed was the same again despite the shims lifting the bed. I have checked and the bed is level on it's own and on the machine. I have changed the probe out three times with no difference and I have tried four different firmware's the one linked on this item then other peoples 1.1.6 and 1.18 firmware all with no effect and the same result.

I am at a loss and can't see whats going on I even did manual bed levelling probing point by point and the same thing happened I have checked and levelling is enabled on the printer, has anyone experienced this type of issue before.

I am just getting into delta 3D printing, but I have some ideas...
Make sure that it's not just printing concave or convex. If your rod length and other values are not correct in the firmware, it would do that. If you're sure that it is an angled offset (rather than concave or convex), then try asking the devs on Github (who develop the firmware). They might have some good advice.

Good luck solving your problem!

I have the same problem, no one has a solution here?

Thanks for this buddy... Works perfectly for me.

I risked it & purchased the LJC12-A3-5ZBY from Amazon which works perfectly on 5v & also used your FW only modifying the Z height because i've extended mine.

I've never actually used auto level before - always done it manually. Could i ask if this is correct what i did in terms of commands for saving the settings.

I did:

M502
M500
G28
G29
M500

Is this correct? Would this save the new height points?

When i did G29 it was did exactly the same as in your video & gave me new height readings throughout the axis but not sure if the M500 actually saved it.

Thanks again for the Thing & FW.

With the probe I never bothered to save the bed level to the EEPROM (only the z-offset). All I would do is G28 to home and then G29 before each print.

Yes that makes more sense to me also... I always found when manually leveling every few prints i had to do again. i suppose with the bed heating & cooling there's some kind of expansion & vice versa.

Thanks

Hello,
I want to add this to my printer but I don't have a way to attach the heated bed, can you send me a link to the bed you used because it appears from the pictures that you are using the stock bed mounts. all of the beds I have found use a different mount

Hey!
i've tryed everything. cant get it to work. Here is my problem.

When i hock up the probe so it trigers on metal objects and the red LED comes on. using the M119 command the printer tells me its TRIGGERD, so it can not probe the build plate. However when i weire it up difrently like suggested i the printer dosent tell me it is TRIGGERD.
i orded the probe in the link. PNP Brown = +, ON Black = 300mA, 6- 36v Blue = - .
Some times it griggers one ZMIN even tho noting is connected. is my bord broken=
Any suggestions? its driving me mad!

i have a gorilla bord the came with the AnyCubic kolosses plus, also used the cod you provided.

Thank you befoer hand.

Best regards
Falcon.

Hi,

What voltage did you connect to the probe too to check if it is working? Its possible that the probe you have does not work withe 5V and you will need to power it differently. See this diagram: http://thingiverse-production-new.s3.amazonaws.com/renders/32/b2/f0/54/bd/diagram_preview_featured.jpg

Hi!
I think that's how it's wired up now. I'm great full for the help.

/falcon

Truly sorry for my english capital but I have a question to ask you that?

I use an identical sensor so let me ask your

Blue wire and wire color brown and black wires connected to the ramps 1.4 How so?

You can guide more details so I understand it?

thank you very much

I added an image to show the wiring for the ramps 1.4. This will only work if the probe supports 5V (not all seem to work with 5V).

Connect it directly to Z-Min.
Brown = +
Black = -
Blue = Signal

So this inductive probe will trigger with the glass and bed sticker and a heat bed under it(just for clarification)

No, it won't go that far. I have only the heated bed and the sticker, no glass.

Thanks for putting this together!

I noticed on my Anycubic Kossel (not the plus version) that the inductive sensor fouls on the Z tower carbon fibre arms when the print head is at it's max negative travel on the Y axis (closest to the control panel) but I realise this probably isn't an issue on the larger Kossel. I'll going to try to put together a remix of this to suit the smaller version of this machine. :)

Comments deleted.

Is it Possible using LJ12A3-4-Z/BY PNP ? apply on Kossel printer ?

sschueller I'm hoping you can help. I Have same sensor, however it didn't work off 5v. so. Ive got it wired brown to psu, blue is GND and Black is signal, I have a voltage divider so when sensor is triggered only 5v comes down signal. where have you put signal and GND??? ive tried every combination everywhere and nothing seems to trigger with m119. I have turn on Z-. and checked it with putting ZMax endstop on Z- and triggers fine. I think problem is in the wiring no doubt. something is a miss and on anycubic forum no one there knows your my last hope.

cheers, J

Are you able to trigger the sensor directly (LED light on sensor) without wiring it up to the board but directly to the PSU? Does your voltage divider look like this http://thingiverse-production-new.s3.amazonaws.com/renders/32/b2/f0/54/bd/diagram_preview_featured.jpg ?

Do you use the glass plate with this sensor?

No, I can't get the sensor to trigger though the glass to the heated bed. So I purchased another build surface sticker (make sure you ask for the large one or they send you the one that its for the smaller kossel delta) and stuck it directly on the heated bed.

What kind of build surface did you buy ? Is there a sticker with metallic sheet ?

It's the sticker from anycubic stuck directly to the aluminum heated bed. You can similar stickers here: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5-pcs-Kossel-round-260mm-printing-surface-sheet-plate-3D-Printing-Build-Surface-10-2-Diameter/32791633750.html make sure you get the right size.

I see... I just bought the same sensor that you've used but I can't get it to trigger from distances greater than the thickness of 3 sheets of paper. I tried running on both 5v and 12v but no change. Did you experience anything similar?

No, mine triggers fine from a distance as you can see in the video and the 4th picture. Are you using the original heated bed? Maybe you have a defective sensor?

Is this easy to setup than the BLTouch as I never got that working properly.

It was easier and seems to work better, I had the BT touch miss trigger sometimes.

Hi installed it and updated the firmware did the M119 test and its show Z-min is triggered however when I try to do G29 it goes up and homes Y and X and stops.

Quick update I noticed that the light on the probe was not going on so dont think the probe was triggering, check the wires and my probe says Brown=+ Black= sensor Blu = - when I wire it up like this the red light comes on and stays on so not sure that is right... I ordered the probe from your link it looks the same as yours and is PNP but I guess it might be slightly different.

I had something similar at some point (G29 homes but doesn't do anything). I fixed that by going to a new firmware version from the original. What version of Marlin are you on? Maybe try to compare the configuration from yours with mine: https://git.techdroid.com/sschueller/marlin/blob/DeltaKossel/Marlin/Configuration.h

I ordered the sensor, is there any documentation as to what else has to be changed in Marlin?
Thanks for a great project and mount

I have posted some more info here: http://elektr0n.com/doku.php?id=inductive_probe . I will update it when I get a chance with more detail. You can find my version of Marlin here: https://git.techdroid.com/sschueller/marlin . For changes see my last few commits I made. I took the upstream version of marlin and made the changes for the Kossel Delta Plus.