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tahustvedt

Lynx - Fully 3D-printable 1/10 4wd buggy

by tahustvedt Jun 18, 2017
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Hey, what are the body combinations?

Is there any build guide?

Hello,
I made all of parts using 3D print but I can not find detailed assembly manual.
Where can I fine assembly manual?
Can you send my Email the assembly manual?
Email address : mwsong4063@naver.com

Hi! Awesome job, well done.Because I'm new to 3d printing world, I have some questions.
I want to make the wheels in cnc lathe, where can i find the dimensions (offset etc)of them so I will not face fitting issues of tyres.
If I want to print the parts in the original size what i will have to do?

Thank you

what's the recommended nozzle diameter and layer height?

Big parts like chassis, body and wheels I printed with 0.6 nozzle and 0.4 layer height, it saves a lot of time and works great.
Other parts I printed in 0.4*0.2
I'm replacing some parts with parts from other materials, PLA is quite weak.

Whatever works for you. Standard 0,4 nozzle and 0,2 layer height works. I almost always print that way.

great, thank you

Can you plase make clear - how do you fix body on the chassis?

Does anyone know why the front and rear belt drive gearboxes are leaving out an inside ring?

Thanks

What scale is this suppose to be printed at mine says the body is 1726mm long lol

This is a problem with your slicer. I just tried downloading the part and opening it and it's normal. Your slicer scaling is off.

и еще хотел поинтересоваться каков полный вес багги.

здравствуй печатаю данную машину хотел бы узнать какое передаточное отношение в редукторе и можно ли увеличить pinion 16T допустим на 20Т или 22Т тем самым увеличив максимальную скорость а то с 540 коллекторным мотором очень тихо едет. Спасибо

Hi! I'm printing this. The next one will be MkUltra for sure.
Could you give us dimensions of this Quanum Vandal CV shafts? I'm trying to find something similar on banggood. For example https://www.banggood.com/VRX-RH10431045-RC-Racing-Brushless-Desert-Truggy-Car-Front-Front-Drive-Shaft-CVD-2Pcs-10116-p-1141723.html?rmmds=category

Looks very similar, but how long is Quanum Vandal shaft... You are using 4 of them? The same for rear and front? Thanks.

That one looks too long. I added a drawing of the Quanum CVD's. The Lynx needs four. The MKUltra also uses them, but only in the front.

Other CVD's can be used even if they differ slightly from these measurements.

https://thingiverse-production-new.s3.amazonaws.com/renders/33/b9/b3/ba/5b/585c16a46c8dceafb705eb88bf5d137c_preview_featured.jpg

Oops. I made a measuring error in the distance to the hole. I updated the photo with the correct dimensions.

BTW. If you know how to silver solder/braze you can cut a too long shaft and splice it with a brass tube. I think CVD's from other 1/10 buggies will work.

Neither the BZ-444 or the Vandel or the Vantage seem to have CVD shafts available from ANY website anymore, have tried ebay, hobbyking, and any other website google lists for. All CVD shafts you have listed for this and the MKUltra seem to be unobtainable now, would you be able to provide a link to something that would work that can be bought still? i really want to use the better CVD's vs the printed ones.

This is such a nice design, great job!

Thanks. I have designed a new buggy that's much better now. Check it out. https://cults3d.com/en/various/mkultra-3d-printable-1-10-4wd-buggy

Comments deleted.

just seen you used a 2x45 rod for the rear so I assume a similar length for the front

2mm piano wire.

From the parts list:
"2 mm piano wire to make hinges for the lower suspension arms. Cut to length."

I'm printing this as I type this, it looks great and the abuse you give it in the videos makes it looks like an expensive store bought rc!
You should do a build video for this!

Will you be releasing the step files? is this buggy open-source?

There are no STEP files to release. I work in 3D Studio MAX. It is not open source.

One more question. I cannot, for the life of me, get the gearbox working correctly, I have everything else assembled and ready, but no matter what I do I can't seem to get the gearbox to work with the motor. I can spin the wheels fine on their own, and they both spin, as does the pulley, but as soon as I turn the motor on them they don't spin. The pulley continues to spin, but the wheels don't. Any suggestions?

Hard to say. Are all four bearings installed in the gearbox? Both gearboxes need four bearings to work. Open it up and see if anything is broken. Some PLA doesn't work well as gears. The hardest type of PLA is not good for gears, but good for driveshaft hex couplings as it holds it's shape.

Yeah I've opened it, I've got all 4 bearings in it and nothing's broken, it's just like the differential is causing the gear with the bevel gears to spin but the gears attached to the axles aren't contacting enough to spin the wheels. I ran a screw through the axle gears into the gear holding the small bevel gears to 'lock' the differential and the tires spin fine, which is why I'm guessing the axle gears just aren't spinning with the larger gear.

Did you forget to use a 3mm shaft in the middle of the diff? The diff bevels won't line up without it, and the diff won't be centered with the axles/bearings.

If there is side to side play with the diff when it's all assembled and closed up then that may cause the bevel gears to slip. You'll hear the clicking. A thin 3D printed 12x18 mm washer will take care of that. Side to side play can happen because of flexing of the gearbox housing or because the three screws holding the side cover looseningor stripping. I usually glue the side cover on with CA when that happens.

I have the 3mm shaft in there, but I have noticed the screws for the side cover loosening and I've had to re-tighten them. I'll print another gearbox tonight and glue that down as well as put a washer on there, and see if it solves my problem. Thanks! I'll let you know my results.

No problem. The car is far from perfect, but when it works it work well. I'm designing a whole new car with what I learned from this one.

Well I'm very impressed with the design you have here, is it a buggy or a truggy or what is the design? If it's a 4wd I'd look forward to your take on a shaft driven vehicle as opposed to belt driven. Also, do you have a rough estimate on when your design will be finished? I'll be keeping a close eye so I can make that one as soon as it's available.

The new one will be another 4WD buggy but no gears other than standard pinion and spur. All belt drive and ball diffs to avoid the weakness and poor precision of printed gears. I will try to make a competition grade buggy.

I'm a fan of Schumacher RC buggies and have always liked their belt drives.

Well sign me up for it! I'm looking forward to seeing the design you come up with! I'd love to see the redesigned differential and having a competition grade 3d printed buggy would be fantastic. Keep me updated!

It will be up on my Thingiverse profile when I get to a stage where I think it's good enough. So far I have found that printing belt pulleys for 3mm pitch belts is a lot easier to do successfully than gears.

Yeah I've been printing the gears in HIPS and the bigger ones print super crisp but the bevel gears are a struggle, even the pinion only printed well for me 1/3 of the time. To me the less gears, the smoother the next one will go! Good idea!

Hey tahustvedt, I'm extremely impressed with your design here. I'm just finishing up assembling my Lynx now. I was hoping to convert to an all-metal rear gearbox in the future, I was wondering if you've looked into this, and if so, if you have a list of the metal gears that will work. I have found the small bevel gears in metal but would need to figure out all the rest still. Thanks.

The gears are not based on any production metal gears. They are proprietary to the car. It would be a fantastic coincidence if some other rc car gears were to fit. The gears can be machined from metal if you have a CNC mill or router though. Acetal would also work better than printed parts.

something is wrong with Body 04, the back of it is messed up a bit and i cant get a gcode correctly. it says it would stop printing after an inch of it. can you fix that

Yeah something muct have happened there. Probably a boolean error. I fixed it now. Re-download Body04 again.

Hello, great work but can I explain how the printed springs
thank you very much
Julian

The printable shocks use rubber bands for spring action. The best rubber bands are made from old bicycle tire tubing.

Thanks for your reply but I'm afraid to not understand !?
Also you would be kind enough to tell me how the tire is fixed on a printable hub?
Should he put a screw?
Thanks again

Here are some photos of the springs: https://thingiverse-production-new.s3.amazonaws.com/renders/82/6c/cc/45/56/2f484a91aff3b1d07c497cf258c0f0e4_preview_featured.JPG

The tires can be glued on with CA or you can use two screws through the holes inside the wheel.

i have issues with assembling of gearbox. differential is stuck and there is a 2mm hole between 2 parts of gear box. tried to print differential from different plastic - does not work. Hiow to remove this hole and make everything work

Did you install the diff the right way round? There shouldn't be any holes if it's printed with 0,4 mm extrusion width. It's normal for the differential to be tight when new. you can spin it when you get wheels on.

I just printed a new gearbox with gears to test to see if there's a problem with the design. It came out normal. No problems.

probably i did assembly wrong, the cover should be attached after you put 2 screws on gearbox.

hello, so I plan on starting to print this weekend. could you please explain in a little more detail which files exactly i need for the 4wd with belt?
I'm still pretty new to printing, and using PLA i wanted to do the non adjustable upper arms, and i have shocks, a motor and esc, radios and servos. that im thinking will fit, or i can make fit. i would really appreciate it.

The parts that end with "belt" replace the non belt parts with the same name.
For example Chassis01-belt.STL replaces Chassis01.STL

Other parts that are belt specific:
Body05
Body06
Idler01 - Print two
Pulley-belt01 - Print two
Pulley-belt-overdrive01 - option to speed up the front wheels relative to the rear by replacing the front pulley

Hi,

nice work.

Can i use not printed 1/10 tires?

Yes. The car in the main photo has the printed wheels with regular 2.2" 4WD buggy front and rear tires. You can also use regular wheels with 12mm hex.

what's the minimum print bed size that you can use to print this awesome thing?

Minimum 184x168 mm bed size and 177 mm print height.

what size hex are the wheel hubs

12 mm. You can use regular buggy wheels.

Hey, this buggy looks really nice and good to assemble, i'm planning on printing one this year.
I got some questions tho, how do the wishbones hold up, as they look quiet delicate ?
My other question would be about the drivetrain, or in particular if, or how mutch it wears with a quiet common (~13t) brushless setup.
Have you noted any wear on your buggy yet (and did you try materials like nylon, hips our petg if it showed signs of wear with pla gears)?

I hope I didn't overrun you with all my questions.
Best regards,
Mathias

The A-arms have broken at the inside mounting lugs when I crash. They have not broken during hard driving. The inside lugs are a weak spot, which can be a good thing since it will prevent the chassis plates from breaking. Printing new A-arms only takes a few gram of plastic.

I have broken one PLA diff bevel gear, and one of the little PLA axles for the bevel gears with the 4000 kv motor and 16T pinion, but this is excessive for this buggy without a slipper clutch. My experience with my monster truck is that Taulman 910 nylon gears last longer, but the gears used in the buggy are bigger and stronger than the monster truck, and the torque at the diff is lower since the wheels are much smaller.

The only parts that wear noticeably are the drive joints on the shafts out to the wheels. Lower rpm will reduce this greatly.

I'll post a video of it on my track when I get the 3000 kv motor.

Don't Taulman 910 gears bend? or is that intentional, really excited and printing the chassis now. How well does it hold up and can I print all gears with the Taulman 910? sorry for asking so many questions just trying to understand lol. Oh and what about the Taulman Guidl!ne, it says its the strongest. Any experience with that or recommend a nylon alloy

The deformation of Taulman 910 isn't plastic. In other words the deformation springs back, unless it's overloaded. It also doesn't melt. The 910 gears I made for the Ursa Monster Truck did deform over a long period and ultimately lost mesh, but it took a very long time compared to ABS or PLA.

I have ordered some one way bearings that I will try to use in the rear diff instead of gears. It will eliminate the weakest link and also eliminate rear wheel braking. Will be interesting to test.

910 has much higher tensile strength than Guidl!ne, at 8100 over 6850 PSI. Interestingly, PLA has a tensile strength of about 9000, but the stiffness means that the loads build very quickly during sudden loads, which is why it's brittle in the wrong application. In the right application it's one of the strongest material we print with.