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Medieval Castle remix for SLA

by TobyCWood Jun 7, 2017
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Fantasy_Castle_Larger printed great on an XYZ Nobel 1.0A, except that there was a bit of resin remaining inside. I drilled two small holes in the bottom and drained the surplus resin.

Also, was just curious how thick you made the walls.

I am printing it again this time with the Anycubic Photon(quite a bit smaller this time too). I just had a thought about your comment about resin not draining and getting sealed inside. A common mistake many just starting with SLA make is they put way too much resin in the vat. Ideally you want the minimum needed for the object you are printing. You need to have the object raise completely out of the resin bath after each layer in order to get the best results. This drains the resin from cavities as well as nooks and crannies. Think about a cavity once out of the resin, it drains a bit then when it goes back down it is filled with air. I have found drainage holes are actually rarely needed once you realize this. If the object you are printing needs a bit more resin in the vat, then you adjust the lift setting so that you can get the object out of the bath... and yes this makes it take a lot longer to print. As usual... you can hear a lot more stuff about it on my podcast; 3D Printing Today... threedprintingtoday.libsyn.com

Thanks for your comment, Toby. I am still brand new to SLA printers (I've had mine about two weeks) and there's a lot to learn.

However, I suspect this depends greatly on the specific printer you are using. I am using an XYZ Nobel 1.0A, and this printer provides no way to control the amount of resin in the tank. It has a float, and fills the tank automatically when the resin level is low.

OK... can you control the lift or the distance the bed goes up to after each peel?

There are three choices of layer height, if that is what you are asking about. But even if you reduce the layer height, I believe the platform will still be totally submerged in the resin. Unfortunately, the printer uses a proprietary slicer, and there are only a few parameters that are under user control.

Really? No not layer height. The Photon SW can't do lift height either, but a lot of other SLA apps can. Interesting about how the Nobel controls the resin level. I'm awaiting a UNIZ Slash OL and it too controls resin flow into the vat.
A suggestion... go get the full sized (fixed) version that I used to make this smaller version. Size it way down then print it as a solid. It prints best with no supports. Supports in SLA mar the surface so you really want to use supports sparingly and place where they connect to with a lot of thought. The irony is that almost all of the SLA supporting apps do not do it right with auto support and are deficient for manual. Try the now fallow 3D Print Studio from Autodesk. It will let you manually place supports with the base on the bed then let you export the result to an a new stl which you could load with the Noble SW.

Been too long. No idea. Usually I do around 2mm. Note the complication of the towers and the lower area. I found that when I positioned it diagonally on the bed with supports the resin flowed out enough to make a drain unnecessary.

Thanks. For what it's worth, I positioned it flat on the build plate with no supports.

Should it be flat on the plate or raised and tilted with supports? I'm still getting to grips with resin printing.

Depends on your printer. With the Duplicator 7 I had at the time I printed it on the bottom, but I ground the machine's bed flat. If your base is not completely flat then putting it on a bed of nails is 1 way to go.

Maybe go back to previous mixes? Try the original multi part version from Bold Machines.

I'm having a problem with the "windows" in the small (and medium) round towers. Any suggestions on how to fix the model to replace these sections with a simpler structure would be most welcome.