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TEVO Little Monster - Enclosure

by Elzariant May 24, 2017
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I have a bunch of 5.6mm Plexiglass laying around. It would be great to have a design for that.

I've published the CAD files recently so anyone can now update them to his needs. Unfortunately, it's been too long I did not work on that project, which is achieved from my prospective.

Hi, I am trying to get the enclosure installed into the TLM but having a hard time getting the Integrator into place. Was wondering if there was a tip on how to get them installed easier. Using 2.5mm plexiglass.

Fantastic design! Is it too much to ask if you can make a 4mm version of the design too? The availability of 4mm material is highly available here in Scandinavia compared to 2.5mm and 3mm. I would like to make one for my Little Monster :)


I've added a package for 4mm thick material. Hope it will work.

Thanks a lot, that's kind of you! I will provide feedback on how it went when I have finished it :)

I just ordered all the hardware including the acrylic to make this happen. Everything in your pictures looks good I"m excited. Not happening for the high cost of the acrylic but nothing I can do about that.

GREAT work, could you edit these files, so they will handle 3mm plate? I can't find 2,5 mm plate in DK
Best regards,

Hello, I've added a package that should work with 3mm parts : "Package STL - 3mm.zip". The gauges for the holes are still the same.

Thank you so much :-)

Hi This looks really good. Especial for printing ABS. I will be doing printing this weekend. Have you had time to make a door handle?


Door handles available.

What a great set of parts, thanks for all the effort Elzariant, the difference in Nylon and Polycarb is night and day. I have taken these parts and changed where they were used and the overall panel design to take this design to the next level (including controller adjust air heating/cooling).

Here is the gist;
I suggest using 3mm corflute panels (the stuff they use for real estate signs) for the 2 side panels and only polycarb for the front to see through, use white ones to make it easier to reflect the light and also to reflect the heat (I painted the outside black to match the rest of the frame). This allows you to do the 2 side panels in one piece and also adds substantial amount of insulation (about 150 times the polycarbonate) due to the air trapped between the 2 plastic layers. Cut the panels 1050mmx450mm, then come in 65mm from each edge and score/cut partway through down the whole length of the panel and carefully flex where you just cut, the seam you created in the panel will fold nicely and you will have a 1 piece panel. Do not cut all the way through, you just want to cut the top layer. Cut the front clear panel 1000x450mm (ever so slightly smaller in height) to allow some rubber strip to go along the top to ensure not air gaps at the top (hot air rises). Also just use the Integrator4door and hinge parts and don't worry about the rest as the Integrator4door part is much stronger and braces the whole panel better, I used 6 x Integrator4door per panel so I have one in the middle of the panel.

When you get the polycarb cut for the front, get them to cut the door hole out so the hole is 100mm from bottom of the panel, 200mm from the top of panel and the hole 300mm wide centred in the panel (round corners are best for polycarb). Then get them to melt bend the same 65mm in from the edges for the corners to keep the panel as one piece and nice and strong. It shouldn't really cost any more to bend this as it did to have it cut, also take a corner piece bracket along for them to match the curve needed in the corner) . This will leave a section along bottom and top for strength and to stop the heat escaping through the gaps (especially important along the top). I also suggest doing the door as one part instead of 2, then get some thin strips of polycarb glued all the way round on the inside of the panel overlapping the door hole by 10mm, this will create a seal when door is close and give something for the door to close against. Make the polycarb strip on the side you plan to put the door hinge on much wider, it needs to be wide enough to cover past the hinges by 10mm in order to provide some extra strength for the hinges.

Once you get the whole thing running well for ABS, then go through and reprint your parts in ABS to prevent things getting soft when you go to print nylon or polycarb and you get the internal air temp up round 100*C. I will do a build log on the mods to this great design on the Tevo Forum under hardware upgrades shortly

Package added for 3mm-thick panels (zip file). And thanks for the tutorial for an "express" version ;-) .

Wow this modification sounds fantastic! Thank you for sharing. I do not have a plastics store near me to have them do the melt/bend so I will likely have to do the doors in 2 parts each still (with silicone sealant for air leaks). I would love yo see your build log for this. Do you have a link by chance?

keep an eye out on the link below, it will be up in the coming weeks


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Bonjours avec vous les mesures que ça prend pour les M4 en T: ces tu 4mm/6mm/10mm ?????????

Les M4 en T ??? Ce sont des écrous, pas des vis. Cherche "M4 T-nut" sur Google.

je sais que ces écrous les M4 en T et pas de vis mais il y en a plusieurs grandeur pareil, ces pour cela je demande car si non je demanderais pas!

Would it be remotely possible for you to either publish the originals for modification, or make a version that supports 4mm panels? Thanks you :)

This would be awesome, 3mm would work as well. Thanks for a great design :)

It looks very nice. Did it improve the print quality?

Yes for ABS. It's even mandatory to print with such material

nice work, have you done the same for the Black Widow ?

nope. Delta printers are easy to enclose as the frame surrounds completely the print volume... which is hardly the case on cartesian printers (except CoreXY ones).