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Hey! This thing is still a Work in Progress. Files, instructions, and other stuff might change!

El Cheapo UM Clone (sub-250 USD Ultimaker Clone) CL 260

by samella May 22, 2017
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I've been looking around for a build and I'm really pleased to have found yours.

I'm I interested in actually building it but is the a documented build/guide available? It would save me many many hours of head scratching.

If there is a similar build with a walk through can you point me to it?

Many thanks.

Hi, while trying to assemble the printer in my mind, i encountered an issue. When looking at the XY Axis corners on the other link, it says print once and print twice. But that left us with 3 corners printed right ?

Not my design tough - but yes, should be two as well.

can someone tell me for what are the extensions with holes on the xy rod holders? On the Pictures i can't see them so i think they are an improvement but i don't know for what improvement

Hey, can i ask what kind of carbon fiber rods you have used in this project - diameter, type, coating and if / how they wearing out? How much in terms of speed/acceleration was gained by using these rods instead of steel ones?

Ordered the parts as a Christmas gift for myself. Can't wait for the last parts to arrive so I can start building this machine :-)

Heyo, very interested in building this but with much higher z height, is that possible? I'm thinking of around 800mm height, x and y still stay the same. so since it's a UM clone, it's build volume for this BOM is 215mm x 215mm x 200mm? so if I want 800mm, that's 600mm higher, so the extrusion should be 1100mm and the lead screw and rods also 600mm longer? Is that correct? Thanks!

800mm is a lot. You might want to use a belt drive rather than a threaded rod: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3213728

UM-Clone, Z-Axis with belt-drive

That is something i might do, I'll start with lead screw first and if that doesn't work then the belt driven, but my calculations are correct? 1100mm extrusion needed? Thanks!

Hello! Could some one help me with XY holder - editable files...I need to modify them for https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/8x10x15-mm-SF-1-Self-Lubricating-Composite-Bearing-Bushing-Sleeve-Choose-Qty-/272177936612. Thank you!

What is the length of the lead screw? Don't see it in your BOM. Thanks!
*Edit; nevermind i see you're z motor has the lead screw attached!

Is that you can give us the firmware ready to be put on the ramps 1.4

Hi i’m Looking forwards to make this printer!
But I just need to know how to assemble this printer.
Does anybody has a link where I can find the instructions?
Thank you!

I don't have instructions, maybe there are some out there for similar printers. If you've build a printer before the photos should give you a good understanding of the assembly. I'm happy to help should any questions arise.

Hey, looking into making this build. I have one question, using the provide hot end (and fan) mount from how I see it, it will rotate the radial fan assembly 90 degrees. This will result in a weird looking orientation at the front of the printer. Is there any way around that?

Make sure you get the right bushings. The ones listed in the BOM are wrong, they should be 8mm. Also I do not recomment getting the rods from banggood. Mine were shipped only bubble wrapper, the ends were not cut flush, and of course they were not straight. Another issue are the closed loop belts in the BOM are way too small. I went with 2GT-200 and they are still too short. I would probably go for one 2GT-300 and one 2GT-280.

Other than the things I listed above this printer is quite good for the price. I went with a higher Z volume because I usually print tall stuff.

That's good feedback. I'll update the BOM with the right bushings and longer closed loop belts.

EDIT: BOM is up to date. Thanks again for pointing that out!

No problem. I'm extremely happy with your design. The printer used to be a Tevo Tarantula, I will be making another Tarantula into your printer, once I'm done with the wire management I will hit the I Made One button and post pictures of them. Thank you

That's cool, can't wait to see your build!

Thanks for the tips, fortunately I already have good straight rods from a previous build which I am upgrading. For the closed loop belts I though the same before ordering and I ordered the 200mm as well! I am not using bushings since I don't have, I only have LM8UU bearings which I am using in a design I just made for the print head assembly. Fingers crossed everything will work out!

Please be aware LM8UUs will work for the Hotend Holder bearings only.

Yes I saw that, but thanks for clarifying. I have only enough bushings for the rest of the build but the hotend. Thats why I designed a new print head assembly to fit my needs. If it works out good I may post it as a remix here.
Thanks again!

I've used these parts for Hotend + Fan Mount: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2004928. That's what you see on the pictures and they work and look perfectly fine (at least for my taste :) )

E3D V6 mount for Ultimaker Clones / added new design

Thanks for the answer, I couldn't see how I can have this orientation using this part. But anyway, I went be designing my own print head assembly. Cheers!

Smoothrod corner mounting file is missing, i can’t find in zip file, upload again please, Tq

it's linked in the item desciption: XY Axis Corners: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2100073

Cl-260 Ultimaker clone tuning parts light version - 2020 precision extrusion connectors + axis + stepper mounts

Would you mind sharing the original CAD files?
Thank you

Hello! Thanks for the thorough design and pictures. This is a very easy build to understand.

You've had this machine almost a year now and upgraded some parts. What do you think of it? Do you find it a sturdy and accurate printer? Is there anything you consider a bad design flaw or wish was different?

I'm looking for a very accurate small machine to use a spare 130mm heatbed and 8mm rods I have lying around. I was going to build a second HyperCube then this machine caught my eye. However after investigating the parts I am not so sure, so I wanted to ask your thoughts and experience.

I'm concerned a few parts are a bit flimsy like the XYZ motor mounts (easy to fix), M3/M4 hardware instead of M5 (easy to fix) and the XY corners (not so easy). I also notice there is no XY belt tensioner, though there's probably room to use Supasorn's little on-belt screw tensioner, maybe.

PS: Your BOM is missing the collar, and lists 10mm XY sintered bushings instead of 8mm. Correct collar is here: https://www.banggood.com/8mm-Openbuilds-Lock-Collar-T8-Lead-Screw-Lock-Ring-Lock-Block-For-3D-Printer-p-1245112.html and you're using that other effector now so may as well just remove the 10mm sintered bushes.

I was looking to build the Hyper Cube before I start building an Ultimaker Clone. I was impressed by the print quality of the Hyper Cube and still believe this is a hell of a machine. However this Clone outperforms all machines I've ever seen or build myself. Props to Ultimaker for their amazing design!

I haven't seen any degrade in quality over the last year albeit heavy use, so the design proofs to be rigid. Actually there is a belt tensioner build in the XY rod clamp.

And thanks for the missing collar, I'll update the BOM accordingly.

Have fun building your clone and let me know how it goes.

hi thanks for your great design . I looking to build a coreXY and same as you I was looking to make a hypercube but the very long belt I think is not very accurate .
then I found your design and wanted to make a 300x300x600 with 2 1204 ball screw . do you thing this UM design will work with TITAN Aero or it is to heavy ?

this UM coreXY style will work better than Hypercube CoreXY design you think ?

Thank you for the quick reply and your review!

You've given me confidence this UM clone is a good build. I'll start collecting the remaining parts I need. I'll definitely post a Make if I get it going.

I have a HyperCube as well (mostly-up-to-date Make here) and I can definitely vouch for the print quality and accuracy there, they're a great machine.

HyperCube 3D Printer/CNC

Cool, looking forward to your build! Ping me if you have any questions.

Can you upload the source files?

Which controller Board should i pick. I want a 32bit version and i don´t know which one to pick. Which board will rund the CL-260 firmware?
I thought something like the MKS Gen 1.4 or the MKS Robin!?!?! (I have absolute NO idea... ;)

Thanks for help!

Basically ANY controller will do the job.

Yea, but what is best for best results?

it really doesn't matter. There are so many other aspects that have a true impact on the print quality.

Ok then. Any mks boatd will run marlin, right? Also this one:

It's said to be closed and not open-sourced...

Will marlin 1.1 run 32bit boards like MKS SBASE 1.3?

I'm confident you can google that faster than me.

Ok. There is just very little to find :) but ty for your comments ;)

The most important file is not in the .zip file included... does anyone have the mount for the 8mm rods for X and Y?

But the holder is still missing. In the zip-file is one 3D item 2 times contained. And the holder is missing. Sry for my bad english...

I'm afraid I can't understand what item is missing. Do you see it on any of the photos?

He probably means the sliding blocks which have 6mm holes for the cross section instead of 8mm.

I found it. A guy cslled bigjay helped me :) but do you have the cad file for the LMF10UU-Mount. I ordered 12 mm rods for z axis. I wanted to modify your 10 mm version

It's linked on the Details Page Mate: "Update July 23: New Pictures! I've changed Hotend mount to this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2004928. "

E3D V6 mount for Ultimaker Clones / added new design

Cool - ty. What about The mounts to the frame corners? May i have the cad files?

What about direct driving the X and Y? Mount motors directly to the shafts from outside? So 2 belts and transition less?!

Do you have the cad files? And the misumi ID because of the drilled holes? Ty!

Are there some further experiences?

I want to use 12mm shafts for the z-axis and try a direct motor drive! Would be very nice - Ty!!

Can you post a video when the machine is working?

Thinking about trying to make this but just use angle iron instead of 2020 just to make it more el cheapo any chance you could provide proper cad and save me a few hours of reverse engineering the stl files into a workable format?

I'll PM you the files. BTW, alumnium profiles are less than 20 EUR in my region.

Well I recently built a corexy with 2020 and I cant get it locally so shipping kills it just figured why the hell not try and use something i can get locally for a frame

Hi, that is a great design! One question I had is, whether it was a mistake, that you actually include 10mm bronze bushings in the BOM but use 8mm smooth rods for X and Y.
And: Which X/Y Carriage did you use? I can only find the hotend mount and and not the one that connects this part to the smooth rods.
Happy Printing!:-)

Hi, is there a chance to get real 3D Data, like STP, for my own construction?

Hello super printer bravo !! Small question, why used on the printhead two linear plastic bearing? Are they better? more precise?

I used aluminium rods that require plastic bearings. The BOM lists hardened rods that allow use of sintered bushings, plastic bearing or LM8UU with steel balls. Honestly there will no real noticeable difference between any of these.

and where did you get the adjustable feet stls?

They are my own (super simple) design.If of interest I will publish a thing.

definite interest.... Printed the z carriage and installed it - there is still a bit of sag - but way better than I had before.

Please post the feet.

did you print your parts in PLA or PETG or ABS?

Mostly PETG.

I like what you did to the build plate. Do you have anymore info on it? I'm going to use some of your parts to upgrade my cl260.

I noticed you didn't put in any auto leveling? I have a BL touch in my 260, now. Please message me so I can speak to you further about a couple of things.

There is a 1mm sheet of resin bonded paper (Paxolin/Paxoline/Bakelite/Pertinax) on top of the heated bed. The bed is perfectly flat - no need for compensation.

could you either post more pictures of the build table or message me so I can give you my email address? If the plate is as good as it looks, I won't need the bltouch. Thank you for the help!

Still waiting for the screws and instructions (or just more pictures) so i can get to building this ;)

I'll take a couple of more pictures so you can get a better understanding of the build. However I will not provide a complete BOM and instructions as this is a one-time build. Screws? Have a good a assortment of M3 and M4s at hand and you'll be fine.

Oh ok. Thank you so much. I guess then I will be waiting for the pictures. :)

I've just updated the pictures.

Could you provide us with a video of the printer working?

Looks really Nice!

When do you expect to upload the new files?
Or could i print it as is currently?
Van i print everyhing in pla?

You can print the files available now and upgrade later if you whish. All parts are drop-in replacements. I suggest ABS or PETG.