MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.

Download Now


Precision Piezo - Piezo20 Hotend Z Probe

by DjDemonD May 14, 2017
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

With this head how much the noozle is shift down?


I consider buying such a kit. But one thing is not clear to me.
the bowden tube is original secured by a PC4M10 fitting. So if i use the Hotend variant ... how is the bowden fixed?

If you use a genuine E3D v6 heatsink then the heatsinks bowden collet is used. If you use a clone heatsink with a larger bowden fitting then you will need to find some other way to attach the bowden tube to the hotend.

So are the pcb files not available for download? This project is not open source(certainly not by the definition set forth by the OSHW Association), when the only step file you have is the pcb(which is nice dont get me wrong, but not really enough), the only schematic file is a blurry ass pdf(that was not even readily apparent on the "OSHW" page), of some unknown and outdated rev. of the board, and there is no pcb. Unless Im missing something?

So far I'm having to redesign the board off of said blurry ass pdf, and piece together .stp files to edit this to fit my printer, so I dont have to design it from scratch (I dont edit .stls, my ocd doesn't allow it, it is also far to much effort, just because some person designed a little trinket and wants to be praised, but not share fully. I mean considering printed designs rarely, if ever, just work).

I mean It would be easy enough to start from scratch(Full wave rectifier and quad op amp...not rocket science), and I probably will over winter break, but I got a lot of studying to do atm. If this project were OSHW, I would already have a board on the way here from OSHpark...

The only real personal prodding ill do(just because it is quite irksome)...why do you have such an issue with cloners? You seem to support them in the case of clone E3D hotends and extruders...I mean you design for them(to increase your customer base no less). Is it only when it affects YOUR bottom dollar that cloning is bad or hurtful to further "OSHW" development?

I have made the decision not to publish the schematic files directly or the board files. The purpose of the open hardware movement is to share knowledge, to allow others to learn from your designs, improve upon them and in turn share their knowledge. By this process we advance faster and the benefit is shared more widely.

It has been my experience that this ideal is frequently abused: Designs are taken, mass produced with no improvement and no effort made to share knowledge or expertise with the community. Frequently, as in our case, no effort is made to offer support to customers.

The end result of this is that people who innovate stop doing so, they see their ideas and hard work taken without compensation or credit and used to make profit by people who have put no effort into the development, or support, of the product.

In order to combat this trend, which I see as damaging to the community, I publish the schematic which allows someone who is interested to replicate my work if they wish (with a little effort) but not the board files which would allow someone to duplicate my product without any effort at all.

I recognise that some people may feel that this goes against the definition of Open Source but I hope you can see why I have made the decision as I have. A number of people have asked about our attitude towards open source hardware and the sharing of designs, so far, all have agreed with the view I've outlined above, if this changes I'll give some thought to whether I should continue to refer to Precision Piezo as open source

We make no special effort to support cloned hotends or extruders, all our products have been developed and tested using genuine parts.

Hi, I accept some of of your criticism. I'm no longer involved having given my interest in the company to my former business partner/collaborator Idris Nowell about 6 months ago. I'm am quite sure if you approach him he will certainly give you the files you want. There are no step files for Piezo20 as I designed it in tinkercad. Please use the contact form on the precisionpiezo.co.uk site. Cloning hasn't been a big issue and ones perspective does change between being entirely an end user and then becoming an inventor and manufacturer of a product. However when you invent something (or develop something into a productat least) then you can decide what you want to make open source and what you don't.

Thank you for taking the time to reply. I will get a hold of him and see what he says.

Fair enough, however Im not saying anything about your choice to release or not release your source. It is absolutely your choice how much you want to release. I'm saying by the definition set forth by the OSHW association, the precision piezo product is not open source. I wouldn't even say anything if it wasn't such an emphasis of the product.

Trying to point out that I have not released a product is a poor assumption, and irrelevant. If what was cared about was the spread of knowledge and availability, there would be no perspective shift from end user to seller, because the business aspect would be secondary.

Clearly you have a problem with cloners with the massive disclaimers. Which is fair enough, I wouldn't expect anyone to support something of dubious quality, they had no oversight into, that would be impossible to debug and know what could be going on remotely). The main thing is the classic "OSHW development is impossible if you support cloners". Which is true, but its very much a double standard when precision piezo designs and sells mounts for E3D clones.

Some projects of sufficient complexity really make no sense in being open source(although its awesome they are) because they are nearly impossible for the end user to manufacturer., and always cheaper to just purchase(beaglebone for example) This is not even an Arduino(which I would say is fairly doable in terms of assembly), it is an incredibly simple product that really anyone could assemble(not a detraction from its ingenuity, just saying a beginner could solder it) so not releasing the files outright is an obvious ip protection move. Once again thats fine...its just not OSHW(by their definition) and clearly shows having a problem with cloners.

I have also released things that have been taken and sold (which I release everything under public domain, so there is no issue). Granted I wasnt manufacturing it and selling it, and it was only a 3D design, but thats because I recognize how difficult(read impossible) it is to build a business on one or two very niche and cheap products.

Idk, I didnt want to get into it too much. Because what you guys do is cool in its own right, it just doesnt seem very open in its current state, which is a huge emphasis of the product...

Hi again! Can you share STEP files for these models? I'm trying to use groovemount with my custom printer (based on smartrapcore), but Isn't fitting correctly....my 'original clone' e3d v6 has 12mm diameter, but this model has 11.75mm, so it fits on my support, but not straight.

Hi make it from whatever you have and are adept at printing with. I always used abs on the basis its a hotend mount and might get warm but people got better results with pla as its stiffer and the assembly does flex to some degree to function. I tried petg but never realty got it to print as precisely, and it needs to be quite precise to work. Good luck. If you struggle my friend and colleague Idris Nowell now runs www.precisionpiezo.co.uk and can sell one to you ready made for a very reasonable price.

Great design! I'm printing a copy now from pla@ 25% fill, 3 walls and top and bottom layers. Just wanted to know your recommendations for material to print it in and settings (fill %, number of walls, top and bottom layers). Thank you.

Hi. What's the correct way of mounting these parts? I've read instruction PDF, but it's not so clear for me. I think i'm mounting right, but I'm not sure. If this the correct way?
I'm asking because I can mount this middle plate in both sides and this plate has 2 grooves.....the outer one is where piezo fit's, leaving a big space behind sensor do 'move' when it is pressed, right? Is this the correct way of mounting?

Yes that looks right. There is relief in the lower part for the solder pads and wires. So please the disc as in your second image, place that assembly onto the lower part and then insert the screws. There is a space above the disc for it to bend yes.

Tks! I see that relief for wires. Only one more question: the disk will bend depending of screw tightening, right? because of space between the two main parts.

Yes and this is where the magic lies. So if you tighten it a lot there will be no sensitivity, but the hotend will be very firm. If you tighten it too little the sensitivity will be very high but the hotend loose. You need to experiment with it. But try to tighten all 4 screws the same amount.

Tks! I'll try :)

Hi !

I'm very interested with your sensor setup as I own a delta (and always up to try new things ^ ^)
I was wondering if I could manage to get your system to work with a dual head - E3D Chimera setup.
In short, there are 2 holes on top of the heat sink instead of one for the bowden tubes : these 2 holes center are 18.5mm distant.

I was thinking a piezo disk like 30 or 35mm diameter could work ?
Would it be possible to put a larger piezo disk and drill 2 holes into it, then I could design a custom mount for Chimera hotend ?
Would a larger disk work with your PCB card ? (or maybe put 2 smaller disks and drill only one hole then put both of them side to side) ?

Thanks ! :)

See this listing for inspiration https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2756965

But yes that can work having one larger disc and two holes. Or go for underbed Piezos then you can use whatever hotend you want.

Piezo Chimera mount
by RKS7204

Thank you, I'll look into both possibilities :)

I saw this on a Facebook group and I've been thinking a lot about this. Could this also be used as X and Y endstop sensors? Probably not cost effective though. You can now use the Trinamic 2130 drivers as endstops. Looking at your Tinkercad drawings of version 1.3, why the off center rounded corners? Also do you think it is possible to run a PTFE tube from the extruder into the E3D V6?

Hi we have tried some piezo endstops, even made a prototype board but as you said sensorless homing via trinamic (I use duet) is the way to go. The design evolved and the corners were just to strengthen the unit. There is a new version in the pipeline which makes things considerably simpler, neater and easier. Yes you can run ptfe tube through the unit (for 1.75mm filament).

You got more information on the new version?

Ordered the board from you guys a couple a days ago and I'm trying to work out how I want it implemented :)

No it's not officially released yet, we've beta tested it were just getting documentation and packaging up together.

What is the most simple option to use the piezo on an Anet A8 / Prusa i3 with Bowden? I am a bit confused by all the available x-carriages.

Some links to the parts to print and the additional hardware needed would be very helpful. Thanks in advance.

I'm building an i3 clone using a Bowden. I modified the Tinkercad model to allow a PTFE tube (4mm OD) to pass through into the V6. Use the groove mount files. Should work just fine in a Bowden set up.

I haven't got an a8 myself so let's see if anyone who does can chime in.

I would not install the electronics panel on the printer head:

  • It increases the moving mass unnecessarily
  • Three cables must be connected
  • You can not set the head while moving

If mounted next to the main panel:

  • We've lost weight
  • 2 wire lines are sufficient
  • Can be tuned during movement

-Thanks for the feedback. Once it's set you never need to adjust it.
-The pcb weighs about 5g so it really won't make any difference.
-3 cables/2 cables doesn't really make any difference.

We've sold about 300 of these things so far so I don't think the design is too bad.

Hi, Can I connect this probe with MK8 extruder?

Not easily but if you can make a bracket with a piezo disc in it to mount your mk8 then possibly.

Hey I'm using an original e3d v6 hotend with a bowden setup on an HypercubeEvo...
Is there a way to use your genius probe with that setup?

If you're using 1.75mm genuine v6 then yes there are hevo piezo mounts on thingiverse. Alan lord did one. You just insert hotend into the sensor unit attach it to your printer and wire it up.

I have similar setup, but aftermarket E3D. It seems that in your design there is no room for pneumatic connector. How would I mount it?
Thanks a lot for your help.

Hi, there is space in this unit for genuine e3d v6 as the pneumatic connector is within the groovemount on the heatsink. The clone v6 uses a much larger connector that won't fit. However there are several solution. 1) buy a genuine heatsink you can keep the heatbreak and heater block assembly if it's working for you. 2) unscrew the pneumatic connector, insert the heatsink, relocate the connector above the sensor unit somewhere and run a ptfe guide tube from it down into your hotend.

There will be coming soon a much improve v2 of this system which will have bowden coupler built in so will be compatible with clone hotends.

Any chance of adding the original cad file please?

Hi I made this in Tinkercad, if you search for DjDemonD you'll see it there shared publicly. I keep meaning to learn proper cad but never quite seem to get around to it.

Ah, well I've never used tinker cad until now haha. Did the trick though, easier to rearrange in fusion now, thanks.

Is there a version for a 27mm piezo? I'm still learning how to design in 3d and I don't think I'm skilled enough to model my own just yet. Getting there, though. :)

Not as such. There are versions for 27mm on thingiverse but they are delta effectors. I made this small to help people to fit it into their setup, can you not get a 20mm piezo disc?

I suppose I COULD find a 20mm piezo disk, but it will take a while, especially with the postal workers strike during the Christmas rush. My problem is that I ordered a genuine "Precision Piezo Universal Z-probe Kit" from Spool3d, with a 27mm piezo disk, not even thinking about whether or not you folks would supply STLs for it.

Somehow I'm not overly surprised that some folks buy clones.

Hi I'm not sure what stls do you want? I'm sorry if 27mm was the wrong size. You can order a 20mm disc from any electronics supplier, drilling them isn't that difficult and they are dirt cheap. You can order one from us direct shipping is only 7-10days from UK to (presuming) US or Canada. You can buy a clone if you want but that's 4 weeks shipping and I guarantee it will be of lower quality, and since our prices are not excessive you don't save as much as you do buying clones of some products out there.

I was hoping that the STLs you supply would include one for a groovemount using a 27mm piezo disk.
Your "Precision Piezo Universal Z-probe Kit" was available with a choice of 20mm or 27mm drilled or undrilled piezo disk, so I just assumed that your provided STLs would include a mount for 27mm..

As I mentioned, we have a postal strike happening, and overseas shipments to Canada are not being accepted by carriers in many countries, and what has already come in over the past 5 or 6 weeks is sitting in containers. So I've decided to modify the Piezo_20_V1.12Groovemount.stl file for 27mm.

Yah. Got some on the way from Mouser. Just impatient. :D

Wish I could get it to work with https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2494642 but im really bad at 3d design and melding them together. Will try hack something on tinkercad

CR-10 Heavy Duty customisable modular e3D V6 mount Volcano 5015 ABL
by chito

That's probably quite doable, I've got a cr10 on order as soon as I get it I'll make a couple of mounts. In the meantime keep trying.

That's good news - the CR-10 has an active user base that would eat this up. Thus far, the main solution has been TH3D's EZABL. This looks neater both electrically and mechanically. I can't believe I only learned about it today.

Watch this space cr10 piezo probe coming soon.

I spent last night studying the mechanics of how these work. For the CR10, something similar to the Titan Aero piezo mount might do. The pressure could be applied by change of distance between top of heatsink (the Bowden coupling is a handy anchor point) and X gantry plate. This would necessitate a little flex between hotend and gantry - I thought backing out the screws between the two and putting o-rings between would do. For printed mounts, it just needs a slot to drop the piezo element into, should be an easy modification.

I have a cr10 to play with but family medical problem means I am in France for now. What I was going to try was a piezo disc between the hot end and carriage with an insulating printed washer. I drilled a 20mm disc with two holes, when I get chance I'll try to get it working. Other issue is the firmware on stock cr10 is not configurable with loading a bootloader etc..

Is there a need to drill the disc? It makes sense on E3D v6 head, not so much CR10, as it wouldn't require Bowden tube to pass through. Have a look at the unified firmware TH3D is working on. CR10S has a bootloader, that's the one I have.

One other thing - with a slot-in mount, could the mount have integrated electrical contacts, allowing use of unsoldered elements?

Hi I'm just trying this idea as the simplest way to do it for now. Which will not require any other changes, but no idea if it will work. Bootloader can be flashed sure, but Im thinking about a kit we could sell, with Piezo, pcb, and maybe arduino Nano with bootloader and preconfigured FW on board. Let me know if your idea works ill report on mine too. Eventually.

ive gone for the groove mount and what ive done is ive extended the neck, just printing now it should fit. If it works ill add it to thingiverse.

Any luck with this @Festivejelly -- I'm looking at options for that same mount.. I've been using it for a bit now, and would likely to integrate the precision piezo onto my it-was-a-cr-10.

Found this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2638792 maybe it could be used.

TronXY X5S (CReality CR10) E3D V6 Mount with Piezo Sensing
by jebk

@jasonbrent still tweaking the design a bit. Hope to have something good enough to upload by the weekend. I'll post here when I figure it out. I'm in the middle of remixing the heavy duty CR-10 mount to accommodate the piezo. I'm pretty close I think.

@Festivejelly Have you managed this at all? I just got a Precision Piezo Orion and am looking for a decent parts cooling solution to go with it.

@Festivejelly Have you managed this at all? I just got a Precision Piezo Orion and am looking for a decent parts cooling solution to go with it.

@Festivejelly Have you managed this at all? I just got a Precision Piezo Orion and am looking for a decent parts cooling solution to go with it.

V1 of my Prusa/Anet mount did well on my test rig, but not on the actual printer.

Round two

Piezo Z-Sense Mount for Prusa/Anet style printers
Precision Piezo Z-Sense Mount for Prusa/Anet v2

Iterate, iterate, iterate. V2 looks good, might be worth testing an idea someone else had, they use piezo pickups for drums and say they work much better backed with double sided tape, he showed me some quite thick stuff. I can see how this might help, it will add compliance and therefore sensitivity, how much of a detriment to accuracy it might cause I don't yet know, but its on my list of things to experiment with when I get chance.

I actually do use double sided tape for the bottom part of the disk where it contacts the fulcrum. Currently printing the new X-Car so it'll be a bit before I can test

Is there also a design for a groovemount hotend with Pneumatic Connector?

is there a reason for groove-mount to be this tall?

Yes this one, provided you use genuine e3d heatsinks with the bowden connector built in, and you use 1.75mm filament. If you 3mm there is not bowden solution.

For clone heatsinks/hotends which have the large puchfit pneumatic connectors you'll need to remove the bowden connector, mount the unit, and design a place to put the bowden connector above the unit. Attach your bowden tube then run a ptfe guide tube down from it through the Piezo20 unit into the hotend. Or if you bowden connector allows you to push the bowden tube through it just run it through down into the hotend.

Yes because its the standard size. Its based on e3D's v6 drawings, and designed to fit flush and be stable mounted under the titan extruder. I am not sure e3d can take the credit (or the blame :) ) for groovemount I think it came about with the J-head hotend I think.

yes I think jhead started the groove thing ... I don't use e3d but some other ones (like hexagon) and the neck outta be shorter :D ... anyhow decided to redesign the whole thing to fit my modular carriage so will not need groove at all :) (will share of course)

Cool yes it's easy to shorten it. Sharing would be great.

I added it as a remix .. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2658639
super simple add-on the the existing module and it steals only few mm from the Z this way :D

Precision Piezo for Modular X-carriage Flex3Drive module

I'm working out figuring how to utilize this with a Toranado Extruder (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1246951)

The best idea I've come up with so far is to mount a PZE in between the main extruder assembly and the x-carriage mount near the top, so that when the torque of the nozzle touch happens, it will kinda "lean back" into the PZE causing a signal to be generated. By best idea, I mean easiest to implement without completely redesigning the swappable nozzle and wiring.

Would that be a viable option, or does the PZE have to be directly above the heatbrake?

The Toranado Precision Geared 1.75mm Extruder - v2.1

Is there a schematic for the PCB? I'm curious to see how it works, and possibly see if I can cobble together my own version until the official one is back in stock.

Thanks a ton! One thing seems to be missing though, which are the values for R11 and R12.

Also in this schematic the JST connectors are 6 pins each, while in the final board they're 2pin and 3pin, so I'm not 100% sure on the pinouts what's actually required

From Idris: "R11 and R12 are not populated and can be ignored. The schematic is for the v1.22 board but he's looking at a pp20 board, that's why the connectors are different."

We do have stock of the piezo20 board in the shop at http://www.precisionpiezo.co.uk/shop if you decide making one is not for you.

ah gotcha, that makes a lot of sense. Excellent, and thanks! looking forward to when you guys get more in stock!

There a couple in stock now if you want one.

agh got me all excited! The site appears to be having some technical issues right now. Tried loading it up to buy one and its showing me "We're sorry, this content cannot be displayed. Please try again later."

Still looking into building one that will also incorporate a couple of other little electronic doodads I have been wanting to do like adding an FFC cable adapter for better cable management and some lighting LED's. Getting everything on a single PCB is how I'd like my final design to come out, but I definitely want to buy an official one, not only to get up and running quicker, but also to support the original developers ;)

Edit: it finally loaded, so I'm off to grab one now!

Cool, yes someone else was struggling to get on the shop today, but its working for me and Ive taken some orders so perhaps its an issue with wix. I will check their status page.

Yes some technical issues https://support.wix.com/en/article/30-october-2017-502-bad-gateway-on-wix-stores-components try again tomorrow.

Still looking forward to getting the official board, but I also went and put together a complete extruder head electronics assembly which includes your circuitry as well: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2618717

Piezo + FFC Extruder Head Cable PCB

I love the idea, I use duet smart effector on one machine and having z contact sensor, leds for heaters and fans and one cable makes everything much neater looking forward to seeing this working. Your board is in the post today. If you want someone to beta test a board let me know.

Sure thing! I can get a set fabricated and send them along for you if you want to PM me an address. Tricky thing was getting ahold of FFC cables long enough. Ended up going direct to a Chinese CM house, and ended up paying about $15 a pop for 1200mm cables

Well then I think best say if you have a beta unit you want to sell to me I'd love to buy one.

Got the components and first round of boards in, but I accidentally purchased passives that were smaller than the footprints. They should still work, so I'll get a couple put together for testing.

Looking forward to seeing how it works, its a great idea and there will be a lot of interest.

Got one board built, pics uploaded on the Thing page. Trigger seems to respond properly so far. Just need to build the mount for my printer now

Looks great :)

And it was all going so well...

Got everything put together, tested well on a test rig (off the printer) swapped out my cable chain and everything works, except now the touch sensor is stuck in tripped mode. Solid on, so I know it's not the vibrations from the fans, and adjusting VR1 to lowest setting doesn't turn the sense off like it did earlier. Maybe I fried something when I brought it home from the office?

I'll put another board together tomorrow and see what happens.

Edit: Figured it out. Looks like the LDO I used for the piezo circuit isnt rated to handle 24v input, gotta switch to a different one

All good, I managed to get an order through!

Hey can you upload STP/Step files for these so that modification can be easier for other hotends. Thank you!

Hi unfortunately not as I design in Tinkercad. Here is a link to the public version of the latest files:

Links in Tinkercad have a habit of expiring now, but if you login and make a copy for yourself its no problem.

Is it possible to get a 2d drafted diagram, a technical drawing, with dimensions.
I can't get all the dimensions in Tinker cad.

The only critical dimensions are that the piezo disc is centralised in the filament path that it is supported ideally on its periphery. The lower part should, for optimal results should press into the disc more centrally this generates the flexing which makes it more sensitive. The rest of the module should be capable of holding the upper and lower parts and preloading the disc but does not have to be of any specific size. I chose the smallest size that was easy to print and contained all the parts based on previous prototypes. Ensure the holes between the upper and lower part do not bind on the screws, as they should be able to "slide" albeit only 0.1mm.

I do not have engineering drawings for it, if more people want them I can get some made.

I have a concept for integrating this with my existing Toranado extruder (different comment above), but that method would not have the piezo in direct line with the filament. Given the different mechanical nature of the Prusa/Anet mounting styles, is that still a viable option? Copying here for ease:

`I'm working out figuring how to utilize this with a Toranado Extruder (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1246951)

The best idea I've come up with so far is to mount a PZE in between the main extruder assembly and the x-carriage mount near the top, so that when the torque of the nozzle touch happens, it will kinda "lean back" into the PZE causing a signal to be generated. By best idea, I mean easiest to implement without completely redesigning the swappable nozzle and wiring.

Would that be a viable option, or does the PZE have to be directly above the heatbrake?`

The Toranado Precision Geared 1.75mm Extruder - v2.1

Yes you can place the piezo in a position where a tiny force will press or (better) bend it. See my other designs for some ideas. Let us know if you come up with an interesting way to do it. Or need any help.

roughing out a concept here, should be compatible with most print heads on Anet A8 and Prusa i3 style printers, also includes a mount for the PCB. I'll build mounts for both the original official PZ20 as well as the custom FFC board I designed.

OK I figured since there's a ton of different print heads that use this style of X-carriage, I should try and keep the board mount and piezo disk self-contained where they can be used by any of them. Here's my first round I'll try once the PCB arrives:


That looks feasible. Being able to squeeze these things in practically anywhere is opening up the possibilities.

Make sure you leave room for the solder pads (murata 7bb-6-lo 20mm piezo around 1mm thick solder, the disc is 0.4mm thick).

OK cool I'll make adjustments accordingly. I made the disk thicker than that in the hole cutout. is that the thickness at the edge, or the middle thicker part?

Middle part is 0.4mm.

Yep I've got a pretty good way of handling that I think. Ill mock something up in Tinkercad and send that along for you

Which one should I build?
Groove mount or Screw mount?

Depends on how you want to fix it to your printer. If you want to use your existing groovemount to attach the module use groovemount. If you want to screw the module to your printer or make an x carriage/head/effector with the module built in use screw mount or incorporate the top part of the screw mount module into your design. More info at www.precisionpiezo.co.uk

Comments deleted.

it could be great to have a full design with magnetic effector(but with strong magnet size easier to find than haydyn) inclued this z probe

something like this for caps

There is this design https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2117069 which I collaborated on with Lykle from Zesty. This includes a 27mm piezo and is based on Haydn's effector for magnetic arms. I have this on my Kossel XL right now and its calibrating into the 0.004 deviation range.

The alternative is to use something like Haydn's effector which looks roughly like this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1441664 and essentially embed the top part of the Piezo20 assembly into it, you could have it raised up by 40-50mm also which would further minimise the magnitude of effector tilt. The only thing I would say about that effector design is the central part where the bowden coupler is shown is rather thin and tends to flex a bit, thicken it up if redesigning it.

Nimble V1 Piezo Hotend z-probe for e3d v6 + Magnetic Delta Piezo Effector
B3 Pico Hot End Magnetic Effector for Kossel Plus / Delta printers

What fan shroud did you use in the video?

how thick is the effector plate in the video?

Required Hardware? Assembly?

See https://www.precisionpiezo.co.uk/resources-osh see the instruction manual there. We've made all the relevant data available, but as you will understand I am also selling them conveniently ready made, so they are open source, but I have not included a comprehensive guide to making one. The various threads on piezo sensing on reprap and duet forums cover everything you might need to know.

You rock. Thx for the dxf