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T-Rex Skeleton fixed and printable

by icefox1983 May 12, 2017
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There are 2 files called "base_onepiece.stl" Are these just duplicate files or is there a difference in the files?

oops that's a mistake. Yes they are duplicates I'm removing one.

Salute, I am printing this, but I dont like the base, I plan to use something else, but for this I must get rid of the left foot joint. Someone have done this? I must edit the piece or i can print the other foot mirrored?

for anyone that was looking for this information,...I know i was...

printing at 150mm/s exept first layer at 60mm/s and walls at 75mm/s
10% infill Zig Zag pattern.
0.2mm layer height.
2 walls count at 0.8 thickness.
And not printing the full base nor the 2 halfs, jsut the parts alone.

Cura predicts:
it will take 1 day and 4 hours and 53 minutes to print.
and use 293g of material (about 100m)

The right arm stl file seems to be missing

Comments deleted.

See instruction. Mirror left arm to get the right one.

The original design is ShareAlike, so shouldn't this one have the same license?

ShareAlike — If you remix, transform, or build upon the material, you must distribute your contributions under the same license as the original.

Good point, just changed

Here is a video of a huge skull I made: https://youtu.be/SJzjtR1LcZw

I would love to use some of your fixes but unfortunately the resolution is far lower on your files. I don't understand why people go through all the trouble of making things and uploading them (which is much appreciated) but then don't export at high quality. https://i.gyazo.com/1b4c9fa644bf9968fb38934b9a0e8711.png

What build volume is required to print this? Or, what is the maximum dimension of the largest part?
Talking about at 100% of course.

It looks great so I hope it will fit on my printer.

I'm trying to decide how far I can scale this up and I would also like to know what the largest single piece is as well. Anyone that has printed this, What was the largest or tallest piece?

I saw your message complaining about model quality before it got removed (not by me). I'm aware of it. It's a limitation of my tool. TinkerCAD "resamples" models when output. If you know how to remix models with a more advanced tool feel free to redo the model. I didn't bother also because the difference you see in the models won't be noticeable when printed (at original size, at least).

I think you've replied to the wrong comment. I made no complaints.
You responded to my comment below.

Not huge but I don’t have a number. All it takes is for you to slice all bones... which you need to do before printing anyway


I've started printing with MakerBot's T-Rex Skeleton thing, I already printed Dorsal_A, Dorsal_B, Jaw, Skull and Hip_Top. Can I switch to your thing to continue my print, already printed part are compatible with yours ?

Yes. all parts are compatible. My changes are only about printability.

Nice thank you :)

Comments deleted.

Before printing the Lower Hip Bone, upon slicing with Cura, I studied the layers where it begins to bridge the columns. I noticed there is a point in which it creates an island, where, without supports, it would have to supernaturally float. If it was just a case of it dripping some wasted filament in an open location and that was it, then it wouldn’t have a big deal. But, it begins to build on that island an even more complex arrangement of lines. This may be minuscule in size at first but in the long run it would create a disaster from my prediction. This problem may not cause much more than a discrepancy in the original scale, but, if you plan to scale up the model, I cannot see how this could go unnoticed. This is an example in which I cannot take a risk, because I am going 280% scale. I do not understand why I see little discussion over this bone, especially from people who have enlarged it. I personally have decided to use supports. I set it at 75%.

Don't know enough on how to separate the ribs, and print then standing up. I printed the entire rib cage and the clips on the end are Very poor qualit. Have broken just about every one of them. Some of the sockets for them also do not appear to be deep enough.

Yes, the clips tend to have poor quality because they are basically thin vertical sticks. But the ribs are primarily glued in the sockets so it does not really matter if the clips break. Yes some sockets seem not deep enough for the clips to go all the way in and it's just how the original model was designed. Again just use some shoe goo or E6000 to glue the ribs in anyway.

So far so good, except the rib cage...

Tried printing the rib cage with supports, it did print but way too much cleanup and the ribs are fragile to begin with, so lots of time spent trying to remove supports and not break the fragile ribs. Not good.

So, I arranged all the separate ribs so the flat side is down. Put them fairly close together, and printed with a brim. All brims connect to one another, a little bit of stringing between the ribs actually helps them stay put.

Important to use the 'Z Hop when Retracting' feature in Cura!

Works great!

How do you print the ribs separately?

I have included separate ribs. Download the entire Thing and look for them. Only the left side (I think?) is included; mirror to make the right side.

All I see is the entire rib cage.

Here is the STL of the separate ribs arranged to print without supports.
This is the one I use, and then I print a Mirrored copy for the other side.

Just used a default sized brim to keep them all connected at the brim.
I had some very light and wispy stringing between the ribs, this actually helps support them together.
Easy to trim wisps with scissors and light sanding afterwards. :)

Also, make sure you use "Z Hop when Retracted" in Cura.
This helps keep the nozzle from hitting the ribs as it moves from one to the next.

How is this possible? The L1-L11 are the separate left ribs.

ribs support difficult to remove--are you sure you enabled "support interface" and using 0.2mm? It's a life changer setting and one of the best killer features of Cura. Once enabled I can literally pop the ribs right off the support by hand.

Yes, I had the Support Interface setup correctly I think, with a 0.2 mm gap. The ribs were just too fragile to get the supports off easily.
I have used this feature a lot with great success with other larger models requiring support, but for these ribs it was much easier just to orient them vertically and arranged closely together. I use Z Hop when Retracting with these types of shapes/models which are easy to knock over.
Anyway, all is well, printing my 2nd T-rex now! :D

That's weird. The rib cage I printed was really strong I could just rip the ribs off. But anyway as long as you found a way to print it! Enjoy.

Right on! :)

Yeah, the supports were pretty strong too. I could probably use a different support structure or whatever its called.
The ribs do print well and fairly strong standing up with no supports. Just a bit of whispy stringing between the ribs, since I print all ribs L1-11 at once. Then I print a mirrored version for the other side. Easy post print processing, cleanup is pretty simple, with some trimming of the whisps of PLA, then some light sanding. :)

I am printing this model as i type this. Printing at 200%, so far i have not had any real issues other than the arms giving a few issues. Finally got those printed, and all i have left are the ribs (which i dread) and the base!

Printing this model now.
Slowly... inbetween other stuff I make for coworkers. :)
I have noticed one part so far that needed to be repaired in the Thingiverse 'View All Apps'.
I used 'MakePrintable' to fix the part and it printed very good.
So far so good, printed the one piece base, came out perfecto.
Printed femurs, arms, dorsal spine parts, L foot.
Using PLA White, cheap stuff from Amazon. 205c/40c. 30mm/sec 1st layer, 80mm/sec and 100% fan for all additional layers.
Prints are coming out really high quality too!
Using a 0.6mm nozzle and 0.2mm layer height, this seems to be a good speed and still very good detail.
The parts are strong using 20% infil and 3 layer perimeters, 4 top and bottom.

Hi guys,
any tips for printing the hip top? mine always fail because the one on the side which start with little circle always failed to stay on the bed.. tried skirt, brim, raft, nozzle height closer it always failed me when its halfway to be joined with the middle one...

im printing with 200% scale. ive tried 0.15 layer height, 0.2 , 0.25 with no success.

My usual answer is a wide brim (at least 8mm) and a lower first layer. If it still doesn't work, the brute force solution is the hairspray. It has to be a particular brand and type which happens to be also the cheapest anyway. Read my description. With that thing the challenge will be removing your part from the bed...

already did that, from what i saw, it does stick well to the bed, but when its halfway to join the middle one, the nozzle kind of hit it or push it slightly several times until the layer shifted then failed and peeled off from the bed, other prints were fine so far, its just this one (using s3d). if i use cura the little circle already peeled of after several layer. thanks for the tips though :D

You could try printing that part alone, and use the 'Z hop when retracted' feature in Cura. Not sure what its called in other slicers...

That sounds like a cooling problem. Layer curling up. That's hard to fix. PLA should be cooled as quickly as possible. Otherwise when it slowly cools it will warp and curl up at corners and hit nozzles. Higher layers (0.2+mm) are more tolerant. What printer are you using? My Prusa MK2S never has this problem.

yes perhaps it is.. i saw the edge curling up. im using anycubic chiron and set the fan to 100%. but this only happened to hiptop file so far ..

Are you printing on glass or buildtack or ?
Have you tried Elmers GlueStick Disappearing Purple, or anything else to help with build surface adhesion?
I use a 12" x 12" mirror tile I got a pack of at Lowes. I use GlueStick on it, and it works great!
After I first apply it to a washed off and dried glass bed, I usually have to re-apply GlueStick after the first couple of prints. Just to make sure I get enough on there.
I have not used AquaNet Extra strong hold hairspray, but it seems to be excellent and keeping parts stuck to the build surface.
Ok, hope this helps! :)

im using anycubic ultrabase pro. others prints and sticks really well. just this one is failing. ive used 10mm brim, cura s3d no luck lol

Ok, I printed this model at 100% scale on my Anet E12.
Im using PLA, cheap stuff but it prints really easy.
205c nozzle, 40c heated bed.
30mm/sec for first layer with no part cooling, 80mm/sec for the rest with 100% part cooling fan.
Printing on a glass bed with glue stick.
0.2mm layer height
0.6mm nozzle
Cura settings:
'Z hop when retracting' is activated. (this helps keep the nozzle from bumping the part when printing.)
No support on the hip top, just an 8mm brim.

I used the Z Hop when Retracting on all parts, just to make sure the nozzle would not bump the part loose.

Use some glue stick, or hairspray on the bed.
Check bed with a straight edge for warpage.
Are other prints of other models coming out good?
add some pictures of the failed prints if you can, that could help hunt down the problem.

Also, try printing that part slower than normal.


p.s. On more thing, make sure you clean that bed really well! Get all the fingerprints (oil) off of it. If the part/brim is starting to curl up, could be not cooling fast enough, or printing too hot, or something on the bed preventing part/brim from sticking well.

I had no problems printing any parts. I used 10mm brim on all of them, and printed them one by one. Used Cura 3.4.1 slicer and just used the default cooling settings.

What are the completed dimensions of your model.

roughly 50cm long at 100%

Having crazy trouble with Tail C piece. Keeps slowly loosening from the bed until print quality degrades and it breaks loose. Am printing at 2x size, which maybe is causing me problems. Will have to try the aquanet next. Did you print with support on any of the tail pieces? Have tried lowering my extrusion temp, which has helped, but still keeps breaking away from the bed. Grrrrr.

I didn't use support on this one. I did use support on Neck, Jaw and Tail D.

Did you use a generous brim? That's a must. If it's still not strong enough, Aqua Net will nail it for sure. In fact it will annihilate all adhesion problems once and for all. Spray and let try before printing. Spray when hot and it will dry in seconds. At $3 why not?

Attached is photo of some of the ribs after I slowed the printer down and one photo before with speed settings at default. My default speed is 30mm/sec and I reduced it down to 15. The little clip part on the other ends are a little rough because the material is so thin - only one layer thickness at 0.2 layer height.

The ribs aren't supposed to go very deep in the sockets. They go in just a bit and should stay roughly flush with the protrusions on the spine. Almost half of the clip length stays outside. Some of them can touch the protrusion while some others angle down. Either way you want to glue them into the slot and fill the space between the ribs and the protrusion with shoe goo or E6000.

The single wiggly rib is a typical symptom of insufficient cooling (because it's too thin). Printing a few together will allow each one time to cool like the second pic. Rough clip is ok. You'd want to glue the ribs into the slots with shoe goo or E6000 anyway.

I found the easiest way is to print the rib cage as is with support and support interface. You may give it a try. Support interface is a must otherwise the support will be too difficult to remove.

Thanks for the quick reply. I forgot to mention that I am printing on a Da Vinci Pro by XYZ. They have a proprietary software that slices the object and so you have to deal with their supports that are not so forgiving. The supports will come off mostly but clean up is usually needed. Thanks again.

OK. Yet another reason to go open source.

For what it is worth, I printed the ribs without supports by angling them in such way that the supports aren't needed. I also slowed down the print head speed by half because it was moving the objects once it got to the thinner section of the part.

Hello, I am building this and have a question about how the ribs are suppose to fit in the slots. It isn't clear to me how far they go in because the slot seem small. Is some part of the slotted section of the rib supposed to be exposed or is it supposed to go all in? Is it supposed to be up tight to the protruding spine bone above it or angle down with some space?

Hi, I struggled to print the rib cage (so printed them individually instead), and now the same issue with the full base. As it prints the brim, the first few lines are fine then they start to peel off the bed. When it begins to print the middle, it doesn't stick to the bed at all.

At first I thought the bed needed leveling, but if I print something smaller, it prints fine where the base wouldn't stick to the bed. Any ideas (other than print the base in 2 parts)?

This sounds like a bonding problem and has nothing to do with the model. There can be lots of issues--bed temperature, surface material, cleaning, first layer thickness, etc. It's too much to be diagnosed in a comment. A simple brute force solution is hairspray; see my thing description for the specific brand, but a properly tuned printer and setting shouldn't need it except few extreme scenarios.

Bed adhesion is one of the most essential 3d printing challenge and as you gain more experience I'm sure you'll get better. I suggest you google "how to improve bed adhesion 3d printing" and read a bit about it. In the meantime, you may depend on the hairspray for help.

Thanks. It's really odd because I've printed all the other parts without issue and they are perfect. It's just the larger bits that are causing me a headache. I will persevere! Thanks again.

Hi, when you say to print the ribs on the side, do you mean to rotate them 90 degrees, or print them as they are in the stl (upside down)? Cheers.

no need to be rotated any way. just print as is with support

I meant the rib_cage.stl should be printed in this orientation as is on its side (with support).

Yes, does it need to be rotated 90 degrees or printed as it is in the stl (upside down)?

Awesome. Thanks for the quick response. I'll start tomorrow...

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Sent from 3D Geeks: Thingiverse Browser for Android

Also in the file section, was it on purpose to only post the left ribs as single files, or do you just print 2 lots of each left rib if wanting to print the ribs in singular

I posted left only because I was lazy. If you want to print individual ribs, you need to do the left then mirror them as the right. The same goes for the arm.

Sorry for this question, I saw the required info after posting this one

Reading through your "Thing details" write up, you mention printing the ribs on their side and enabling support interface! I do this when ever i print and still my prints come out like crap. Any chance you could share your print settings? I see these videos of people who breaking supports away from their models after slicing with cura and i just dont buy it.

My main settings are 0.2mm layer, 0.8mm support interface. These options should give you a relatively print. Can you post a picture of your “crappy” print?

I mean you support settings. My supports still seem to stick to the actual model leaving a lot of clean up. Never have supports like you see in people’s vids were they are just breaking them away by hand and leaving a nice clean surface. I don’t have a print to hand sorry

My support setting is all default except the support interface. A key setting is 0.2mm layer. If you use 0.1mm layer, the distance between the support interface and the part is 0.1mm and it’s hard to separate. Also I use a sharp ice pick like thing to pry the support off. It’s impor as well. Pin it between the support and part and wiggle it.

What is the name of the filament you use, and the color name ?

i know right? it's a perfect color for skeletons. I used to list the brand and color but the producer went out of business so I removed it.

Now the closest color I see is the middle one here: https://www.pushplastic.com/products/earth-tones-3-pack-pla-filament, but I haven't used it so I don't know the quality etc.

I think part of the reason that Makerbot hardly ever responds to comments of peoples problems on his builds is that a lot of his designs is because in general hes trying to sell his printers.
But anyway, I'm not sure what the problem with the original model was. The original model for me printed just fine. My only problem was that I had to replace a few clips (something this remix did not cover!) and the ribs weren't very sturdy (once again something this remix did not cover! They regrouped the ribs but it changed nothing for me; the designer still used the same ribs.). You didn't fix any errors. You just regrouped and separated files.
All in all the original model printed fine for me, but this did not do much to change the original model.

Let me show you what's the "hard fix" I did. I made some screen captures of the original tail parts A & B. You can see several joints are barely connected. When I printed these pieces they broke right off at these places and countless people, if you read the comments to the original post, had the same problem. I don't know why you printed it without a problem but at best you'll get a piece that's extremely fragile. I added cylinders to these joints so now they are much stronger.

The rest I did was mostly separating parts, joining two base pieces, and reorganize connectors. These are improvements rather than fixes. But it doesn't mean there's no value. Having individual pieces means you have much better error tolerance. If each arm has a 50% chance of failure, printing two together will be a 75% chance failure. For those who are beginners or whose printers are of lower precision, printing each piece separately can save them tons of time and material.

Finally, the ribs. When I printed the original rib cage it was a guaranteed failure. The nozzle skipping quickly from one rib to another is knocking everything off. That's why I separated the ribs because there won't be any skipping. But later I found out the best way to print the rib cage is to print the original two-piece cages on their side with support. The original model was designed as can be printed support-free and it almost achieved it, and the ribs were meant to be printed upright, but it's too tall and thin atop there won't be enough strength to add more layers. Printing sideways with support and enabling support interface (in Cura) and the ribs come out perfect every time. The support interface makes the ribs easy to pop off from support. I'm adding this tutorial to the instruction.

hello do you do commissions on this bad boy? if so how would 0.2mm thickness 20% infill work, because the price seems rather steep if you dont mind me saying so?

Hi. Can you please upload tibia/femur file with each of them separated? Thanks for your great work btw!

That was awesomely fast response! Thanks!!

Five tries to print the skull (Makerbot dual, ABS). Five failures. The furthest along I've gotten is about 60%. There's just not enough contact with the base plate - it keeps getting knocked off. I'll try one more time without raft, maybe that'll make for more secure adhesion.

I know it's a challenge. I have no experience with ABS, but with PLA my tricks of hairspray and 8mm of brim work the charm. See my print instruction about the hairspray. It's not mentioned nearly enough on Thingiverse but a real game changer, at least for PLA!

Thanks for the fast response. What's brim? That's not a setting I see in ReplicatorG. I can select raft or no raft, but I can't control the size of the raft. It extends about 5mm from the base of the part.
I've got Kapton tape on a heated build plate; it usually works, although large flat plates have a tendency to curl.

I use Cura and I strongly recommend it. It's free and very feature rich. See what brim is and imagine how it improves adhesion.

Well, that was a hot mess. Got knocked loose and went spaghetti. One more try, then I'm giving up. At least I got a jawbone.

bit of a noob question but how do i mirror parts ?

depends on slicer but it's a basic functionality. most software should have it near where you can rotate, shift and scale models. I'm attaching the interface of Cura (latest version)

is arm right missing ?

See instruction. Mirror the left arm to make the right one.

Is there any way to break the Tibia/Femur in to multiple files? looking to print this as large as possible (at least I hope to) and those 4 pieces take 70+ hours according to S3D..

This will be very easy to do in Tinkercad which is a free online app. Let me know if you face difficulties

the file is 27MB TinkerCad only allows up to 25. But I have an old version of NetFabb basic that I was able to break it up into 4 separate files.

well if you have netfabb then that's perfect for the job! It's a shame netfabb has shut down the free basic version.

yes, I found it online somewhere about 2 weeks ago and grabbed it fora project here I needed to slice up a large object to print. it took a while to find the location, http://en.freedownloadmanager.org/Mac-OS/netfabb-Basic-FREE.html. I am running OS X Sierra, and have had no problems

Nice! And perfect filament colour :)

Thanks for the remix/fixes. See my made comments for more details about the problems I ran into:


I had problems with slic3r as well, but found a workaround (slic3r was not able to fix the model on its own)

T-Rex Skeleton fixed and printable
by nosale

I printed all models using cura wo a problem so I'd think you've met peculiarities of slic3r. When it comes to bed adhesion I strongly recommend hairspray. Great print nonetheless!

Cura has a graduate infill option that I like a lot. It allows you to reduce infill % below the ceiling. For example the add can start printing with just 4% infill, up to 8% at 6mm to top surface, then up to 16% at 3mm to top surface for a nice finish. I bet you can save 5-8hrs with the base with this option. On the other hand 16 hrs isn't terribly long. I've done prints that last 4 full days!

Yeah, from the sounds of it I'm gonna have to try out cura. I'm new to 3D printing, so one thing at a time I guess :P

usin anet a8 to print .i think is missing one arm on this pack?

And all right side ribs. See instructions. Mirror the left ones to print the right ones.

ok.thank you !

I'm having trouble with Tail_A and Tail_B. Both appear to be broken badly. I've downloaded them multiple times, and from the zip too.

The original tail designs are problematic. If you look carefully from the side, the bones are not solidly connected. I fixed the worst disconnection in the two lowest sections, but the above sections remain weak. If your printer is not well tuned you may not be able to print them.

Try this fixed tail. This fix is much more aggressive and the pieces should be completely fused together.


T-Rex model fixed tail

Thanks! That helped, but now Dorsal B is broken. Slic3r is just having a really rough time with these parts.

I use cura and recommend it to you too.

Meshmixer seems to do a good job repairing them too. I can't wait to get this thing done.

You did a great job on this! I have a trick for printing long thin parts (or small parts). I made a "doughnut" in sketchup - 5mm x 5mm with a 2mm hole. . When I want to print a tall thin part, I add this doughnut and scale it the same Z height as my part (keep X and Y the same). Now it's a cylinder Then I put the part in the center and put the cylinder in front of it. Duplicate the cylinder and move the copy behind the part. Now you have 3 parts. This gives the layers time to cool properly. Collect the cylinders, because they have holes in them, so they are actually beads! When you get a big bag full of them, take them down to the local school and give them to the art teacher.

This is very creative! I like it

How much filament does it take to run this? Will one roll be enough?

Not even half a roll if you do 10-15% infill

Excellent work!

I managed to repair the original files and printed them. But your remix is very suitable for rescaling. Just came from 3D Expo where I saw the skeleton printed in about 4x scale at Prusa stand. That was impressive.

Now if you could do the same to Stegosaurus skeleton too. :-)

Wow that looks IMPOSSIBLE to print. One day when I print it I may do the same... but gotta take a break after the T-Rex project.

hey man!

have you tried PEI as your build surface?

PEI works great for PLA prints and doesn't require glue.

try it!

Prusa i3 MK2S has PEI surface stock. It's good enough for most prints. Not the T-Rex though. This design has so many off-balance tall objects with little contact areas. I cleaned the surface, changed temperature up and down, but they kept falling down. Most important part is the Hair Spray solution is so cheap and easy and permanent there's no reason not to use it. Just spend $3, spray a layer, let dry, and you don't need to worry for months. Well, there is still one concern. I do wipe the spray off (easily done with dampened paper towel) for printing objects with large contact areas because otherwise they stick to the bed so tight it's hard to remove them!

Hi , Awesome print project ! I am new to 3 d printing and have a question regarding " hairspray as an adhesive " I do not have a glass platform and wondered if using the blue painters tape and applying hairspray to the tape would work ? Also what colour of filament did you use and do you recommend any particular brand for this project? I have retrofitted a dehydrator that I keep my filament in during projects which has eliminated moisture issues with some of the various filaments I have experimented with.
Thank you in advance .

Hairspray on most surfaces should work. Hairspray is solvable in water so you can easily wipe it off with some wet cloth or paper towel, so no need for blue tape if it's for protection.

My filament is in the description. It's the closest color to dry bone I've found. The filament is not as easy to print as say Hatchbox but it still works.

Thanks for this remix - will be trying to print this on my prusa soon. But the filament you linked to in the description doesn't appear to be available anymore. I'm still looking for a good fossil color filament.

I know... I just noticed the filament company now only offers a few selections. It's a real pity--they had the best neutral color selection on the entire web! Now we can only print cartoonish bright colored models. Let me know if you find any alternatives. Also, thanks for the tip!

I'll let you know if I find a good bone color, but for this project, I may do a dark brown, like: https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-2-85mm-Filament-Printers/dp/B016996CUW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1507329970 to match fossils like Sue: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/fc/Sues_skeleton.jpg

Also - did you say somewhere what resolution you printed? i'm printing the skull @ 150 and will also do one @ 100 just to see the difference. (sliced with Slic3r PE) and printed on my prusa.

Thank you for doing this, got this whole thing printed but the ribs are trash on the longer ones for both right and left side and my tail snapped when I picked it up.

Thanks again. Now I can complete this masterpiece for my son.

I know right? It's been a full year since MakerBot uploaded their model. It's so easy to update the design and address the outcries in the comment section yet they don't.

Thanks for all of your work on this !!!!!