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Zelda: Breath of the Wild – Guardian Sword with NeoPixel LEDs (Smaller parts remix)

by Sraf May 11, 2017
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Hi, I'm looking to make this myself on an Ender3, so it's great to see you've already remixed the original to a usable size!
I was just wondering what filament you used? I'm in the UK so my filament selection is a little sparse. I also want to sword to at least be somewhat sturdy and not liable to break when being picked up!

I was thinking of using eSun PLA+ white filament. It's not designed to be translucent, but apparently it does get used in lithographs with tealights and things... Any suggestions?

I did use neopixels, ones that were salvaged from an older project I wasn't using anymore, and needed too much TLC after being brought to a con

When I printed this, I used Amz3D transparent PLA, and had good luck with that. I got that via Amazon, but I'm not sure if that's available across the pond. Also check for Hatchbox, both perform as well as eSun did for me, but were much less expensive


This seems to be available here, but it's no cheaper than eSun PLA+. Basically the same price.

I'm considering whether an eSun PLA+ White filament will be good for this project, or if I would need to get the transparent filament. I have heard of people using the White for lithographs, but I don't know if it might be too opaque. I'm hoping it would diffuse the colour more.

Edit: if possible could you put up a Make of your print? Just so I can see what the AMZ3D natural transparent colour looks like

I don't have any pictures of it (nor it anymore), but I do have the earlier project that the neopixels came from that used the same filament, or a later one (that I used the rods in) and also used that filament, and may give you an idea of how LEDs shine though non transparent filaments

Older: https://www.instagram.com/p/BEuRTAMFuaG/

Newer :

From my experience with different brands of trans PLA, if you look at any of the Makes of this or the original print, that would be accurate to how it would look with transparent, uncoloured PLA

Thankyou for all your help with this, I really appreciate it!

Plus, now I have another project on my list - an Energy Sword!

So you would recommend the amz3d transparent filament, over using an eSun PLA+ white? The only reason I'm considering using the eSun, is because I want to sword to be pretty strong, and I know that the PLA+ has been much less brittle than 'normal' PLA.

My other concern is that I want the light to be decently diffused, and not have too much 'hotspot' of where the LED's are.

However if you think the transparent amz3d is strong enough for cosplay/costume purposes, and diffuses the light enough, I might just go for it :)

The concern that I would have with using an opaque filament is that the hotspotting could be heavier. It might work well to modify the prop to have a channel that you can hide the LEDs behind, which could diffuse them further.

As far as strength, have you ever tried printing with PETg? It's quite strong if you can print it well, you just may need to put something over your print bed if you use the stock ender3 print interface. It's similar to BuildTak, and let me tell you, those two plastics love each other so much that they don't want to let go

Yeh maybe it would be better to go with the transparent and then add more thickness for strength and lensing. Might work!

Have to admit I have not yet tried PETG. I have found PLA+ to be good and strong enough for my purposes, as well as being very easy to print with.

My concern with PETG is that I have heard it can be very difficult to print with. I use a glass bed on my Ender3x, which works great for PLA+.

Using the amz3d transparent filament for these things, have you had any concerns with it being brittle? I've heard some people saying about the screw holes and things snapping off, which is not something I'd expect from PLA+.

I may consider PETG, as I guess there's no harm in adding it to my materials. Would it need to be a translucent PETG?

I would use a transparent PETg, or a slightly translucent one, both should be fine

PETg can be a bit tricky, I've had good luck with using a temp near the higher end of the printing range, and slowing down the speed a bit

As far as those parts snapping off, I'm not sure how much that can be helped as they are pretty narrow, and have the layers in the exact direction they need to be to be as weak as possible. Removing them from the model, and replacing them with a longer, shorter structure that has a 3.6mm hole through them might be better (for the earlier rod solution)

If I have enough time this week, I'll see if I can model that if you don't want to

I'm happy to give it a go, though I would not mind collaborating with you on it to perhaps end up with a solution that people will use in the future. If you don't mind, I'll send you a PM and maybe we can work through it on discord or Insta or something?

I just printed this out, and it's pretty awesome. But I feel like there are some modifications to the design that could be easy to achieve and very beneficial to increase the overall strength. Mostly I think the little anchor holes (for lack of a better term) where the screws hold the sword together lengthwise could be spaced differently (so that some of them are no longer right in front of a wall, making it hard to insert a screw) and making those same anchors thicker. I haven't put the lights into my build yet (and I probably won't because I feel like mine printed kind of flimsy) but I don't think that increasing the thickness of those anchor holes would obstruct anything, and it could greatly increase stability. I also printed some rectangular tabs to glue in between joints to increase the grip the lengthwise parts had on each other.

I think I'll try making those changes myself in the future, but you're probably a lot better at modeling than I am so I figured I'd mention it here. But I think this model has potential for other changes as well that could make the whole thing much stronger, even when printed in more parts like this.

But thanks for making it smaller to print! Mine is delicate, but I love it!

I've had a few thoughts on this topic as well. When I originally did the remix, I was just mimicking the original joins. More recently though, I have designed a few things (one of which is up as a WIP) to make use of 1/8 inch steel rods, and I started wondering if that would be feasible here as well. I've found that my two prints that use them are incredibly strong in ways that would be perfect for this project as well

Did you manage to have any further thoughts / designs on the use of steel rod?

There is basically a single viable path that a rod can take. It may complicate placement of LEDs, so staggered rod segments might be a better idea

Interesting, I agree that segments might be easier depending on LED's.

I wonder (asking a lot I know) if you would be able to post your Fusion360 files so I could play around with it?

I'm looking to make the LED-line slightly deeper, so that I can use standard size LED strips instead of the very expensive neopixel minis.

My files are just modifications of Pedro Ruiz's files, which are available here: https://myhub.autodesk360.com/ue29f5e7b1/g/shares/SH7f1edQT22b515c761ecf321ba9f3f5fd6a

To save time in cutting that up, my modifications are available here: https://myhub.autodesk360.com/ue29b4d1c/shares/public/SHabee1QT1a327cf2b7a3c67d22f9c1b5e55

Thankyou :)

The original assembly instructions describe the blade decorative pieces as "snapping into place" and mine fit, but they ain't snapping in. Is this normal?

If they fit snuggly together, then you should be fine, but if you want to make sure that the parts stay together (and never come apart) then put a little e6000 on the join

I'm currently printing the parts off as I type this. THANK YOU for this! I was understandably upset when I downloaded the original files and saw that they were for 300 x 300 beds. The only thing that had me confused initially was the Blade Gem, which you didn't include. I grabbed the STL from the original 300mm files, so no big deal. I'm a bit concerned about the .4 vs .38 settings (I used .4) regarding the screw holes, but I will probably use Gorilla super glue gel or E6000 to hold the parts of the blade halves together anyway. Thanks again for your efforts!

Thanks for the effort remixing this! :) Exactly what I've been looking for!

anyone else having issues with the screw holes falling apart? I barely touch mine and they fall off

Did you set your tip diameter to 0.38mm (while using a 0.4mm tip)?

I just saw the comment below, trying a new print with that diameter .. if nothing else I'll try to print with colored PLA instead of clear PLA, or just printing the connector separately and glue them.
Thanks for the smaller version though!

Any chance you might do another remix for really small beds like that of the Flashforge Finder?

What's the build area?

120 x 120 x120 cm would be small enough for both a Flashforge Finder and Up! Mini. That would be amazing.

I printed this on a MP Mini, but I just reduced the size of each file down to 70 percent. Worked fine. I did end up having to keep the battery external though. I just ran the wires out of the handle, and then taped it to the handle with electric tape. Not ideal, but it works and look really cool. It was for my son's halloween costume and it got a lot of compliments.

Small problem with the handle detail. There's no hole for the screw underneath. Handle_detail_2

Never mind, got to it tonight! You'll see a new file added "Handle Detail Mirrored with screw hole"

I'll get to fixing that when I get a chance, in the meantime I'd probably just drill out a hole, if you already printed that part

I'll aim to have the hole set sometime tomorrow

Sweet, that was quick. I was going to drill in then next bit, but if you're done I'll just wait my filament.

Thanks for the remix! Is there a suggested infill? Doesn't look like it would need much at all, but wanted to double check before printing.

The original called for 10%, should be fine here too

Thanks for this. I'm going to try to make it for my son's Halloween costume. The parts are still too big to fit on my Monoprice Mini, but the sword is way to big for a 7-year-old anyway. Thus, I plan to shrink the parts to 70%. Do you see any inherent problems in doing this? Do you think the blade will be wide enough to accommodate the neopixels at 70%? I already ordered different fasteners that are approximately 70% smaller than what was originally used (i.e., M1.4x8 and M1.7x6 instead of M2x12 and M2.5x8, respectively).

Biggest thing that I can see as an issue is that the walls will become thinner. Noe and Pedro used a hack in the original to make sure that the walls printed thick enough (used a .4mm nozzle, but set it at .38 in the slicer) you may want to use the slice preview to do something similar to make sure that there aren't any gaps between wall layers
You may also want to reinforce the seams with some E6000, look for their Halo Energy Sword project for details on that

Thanks for the reply. My printer uses a 0.4mm nozzle, so you're saying I should set it to 0.38mm in the settings so there is a slight overlap? I looked at the Halo Energy Sword project, but I don't understand how they used super glue and E600. The tutorial says to glue the blades together and then apply E6000 to the inside, but I don't understand how you apply it to the inside after the blade is assembled. I'm assuming they mean after each half is assembled, you apply a bead of E6000 to reinforce the walls. Kind of a fillet in woodworking. That definitely makes sense.

Yeah, that's what you do, bead over the seam before the halves are attached.

That .38 setting would only work if you were printing at full scale, what I recommend is to try to get a part in your slicer at full scale, take a look at the slice preview so you can see the toolpaths, then look at how the toolpaths differ (especially around the raised parts that hold the screws) on the two nozzle diameter settings. You'll find some odd gaps at .4, and those can really weaken the print. When you switch to .38, those gaps are filled. You'll want to play around a little after you scale down to find a setting that isn't too far from .4 but that has no gaps in the toolpath

Sorry for being such a knucklehead, but why would there be gaps?

Imagine that you have a distance between walls of 0.9mm, your slicer can only get 2 paths at 0.4mm through it, can can't really do anything with that remaining 0.1mm, so you get a gap. This is the same thing, but even more severe

Makes sense. Thanks for the explanation. Going to start printing when I get home. My transparent PLA filament should be arriving later today. If it all works out, I'll definitely post some pictures. I'm hoping the electronics will fit at 70%.

Hope it goes smoothly for you!

Sorry for the late reply, but it went get. Turned out awesome.

That's awesome

This is exactly what I needed! However, if it's possible Sraf, could you do a cut of the tip for me? The very point of the original clips just outside my max build area. Like, if you could do a cut across the middle of where the "hook"-like part is, that would be perfect. Thanks.

I'll get that done in the next day or so, check back soon

Sweet! Thanks!

There you are, 4 new files uploaded. Sorry that took longer that I said, busy week

Totally fine, it's perfect. Thanks so much!

Hey, Sraf, I'm having a bit of a problem with the handle detail 2 file. Is it possible that you send them to me as 2 separate files? I'm not sure how to separate them and when I try to print the provided file, only the right side prints. Thanks so much!

Added a split version for you

thank you!!!!

Hey Sarf thank you for the remix much appreciated , The blade tips can i use the ones from the original and would they fit your remix or no ? if not would please be kind and cut them and add them to your remix . Thank you very much and i will be sure to throw a tip :)

The tips on the original were already small enough to fit on my printer, so I never sliced them further. They will fit on the remix, so if you can fit them on your printer, you're good to go. If they don't fit, let me know and I'll cut them into smaller sections as well

Perfect thank you for the quick reply and can't Waite to do this project . I will upload pics when its done :)

Thanks also needed the tips, going to start printing as we speak. Thanks :)

The blade decor doesn't fill the whole channel in the sword. In fact, it's pretty thin. I guess I was expecting something that fit more snug. Is this normal or did I mess something up?

Thanks for the remix, this was a huge help!

That's normal! The original design had those smaller than the channels they fit into. For my sword, I was thinking of using a black enamel paint to fill the rest

Just a little to late for me.
I cut the model down in netfabb a few days ago and started printing it like that.
I do like that you added tabs between the parts. I had plans to but did as i will use using epoxy.
But thank you for the models.

What is handle Detail 2.stl?

I didnt see that one in the original files

Handle detail looks like it wasn't included in Adafruit's upload to Thingiverse, but the parts were still in the Fusion design file, so I included them here

I was trying to line everything up last night and couldn't work that out... whoops!

OMG A MIRACLE! The 3D printing fairy has delivered!! ;)

Thank you!! Will definitely be making this very soon

amazing, thanks for this!

Yeah thanks a lot !! :)

Thanks for the redesign. do you have a new BOM for the screws needed since this is more parts?

The M2.5 X 8mm screws listed in the guide, you will need an additional 8 of them. No other extra parts should be needed

Wow this is great. Thank you!!

Thanks for the remix.