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3mm glass corner clamps for Wanhao Di3 / Monoprice Maker Select v2.1

by xenz May 7, 2017
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These are great. A few notes after much experience with Maker Select & related issues.

A glass bed and these clips are basically necessary as the Monoprice Maker Select print bed are all warped and crowned. Mine was crowned so bad that printing any part over 40mm a side or less then .2mm layers was difficult. The glass bed instantly fixes all those issues.

In short, replace the Y-carrage with a stiffer plate any you will never have to worry about leveling, then get the glass and print a few sets of these. They are meant to just hold the glass from moving in X/Y so they don't need to be tight and don't hold the glass "down". When leveling the bed place paper shims under the corners to remove the crown/flexing of the glass when you press down on it. Doing this means that when you remove parts the glass won't slightly change angle and require a re-align.

As for printing these I recommended a much higher then normal infill/wall/skin to give them a bit more longevity as the build plate heat and temperature changes can easily cause them to deform. And if the fingers don't hold tight just add a folded paper shim. You should be able to wiggle the glass in X/Y but not see air games from he fingers to glass.

I noticed that I purchased a bigger glass bed than most. I ended up breaking off the fingers and the glass rests in this clip pretty nicely. I still had to use 2 binder clips to keep in in place, but now my bed does not move.

Hey thanks for your files !

Can you share your model in order to modify the shape ? (the file from your CAO software)

Thanks in advance

This is a remix from others design, so all I got is the STL file.

These work perfectly. If the clips are lose/the glass wiggles with slight finger pressure just cut a few small pieces of paper and insert them vertically as shims. I also added a small peace on the front and back under the glass to account for the crown in my bed so i don't have to keep leveling it when i push on it taking parts out,

I really wanted these to work out, but they didn't.

I printed them in high temp PLA, and they worked pretty well. The glass fit in great, with just a tiny bit of room it could wiggle in. A single binder clip held it in place perfect.

The problem was with these installed I could never get the bed to stay level. Before installing these, I releveled the bed maybe once every couple weeks. With these it was getting out of level for every single print. I spent more time leveling the bed than I did actually printing. I think was was happening is the plastic under the bed warping slightly as it warms up. But it warps slightly differently each time, hence why it wouldn't stay level.

I had to remove them which is sad because I really liked being able to pull the glass off that easily!

So the original buildtak surface started to bubble ? I read about some people peel the buildtak off so the glass sit right on top of the heated bed, no buildtak in between. Some put thermal pad Or if yours comes with a spare buildtak (mine comes with a spare) maybe it's time to change it.

Mine still have the original buildtak on and when I do bed leveing, I have my bed heated up to normal printing temp, like 57C, My buildtak also have some uneven surface, hence I use the glass, luckily I didn't encounter such problem. I adjust the Z stop switch to a level when I put the glass on and did a home Z, the bed is level and most important the 4 adjustment screws was tighten up to a point the spring has tension to hold itself and doesn't come loose during print and doesn't bend the bottom flimsy Y carriage plate. Oh. I also printed 2 of the LM8UU and mount for one side of the Y rod, the original design has 2 LM8UU mount on one rod and the other rod only got one, now it has 3 on that rod - that is to prevent the bending of the cheap Y carriage plate the printer comes with. With this setup, I didn't have to level my bed for quite some time already.

Glad you like the clamp, but sorry it doesn't work for you.

Comments deleted.

I find these tend to break alot. Any suggestions for making them stronger?

Couldnt reply to your comment so Ive added this to my own.

Ive had 4 clamps break in less than 2 weeks from putting preasure on the build plate while trying to get a print of the glass. Obviously not what they are made for, but I think if they were made stronger it would only be benifitial.

I'm sorry that it happened to your print. Would you mind post a pic or a link to a pic showing how the clamp were installed with the glass plate mounted ? I may see where it can be improve. Thanks

@Execute, interesting. My design was meant for 200mm x 213mm x 3mm Borosilicate Glass and I have two of them from different vendor. I have been using these clamp since I printed it the very first time, using PLA, and still doing strong. If mine broke I'll probably print using PETG or ABS as it will withstand better heat.

Would you mind defining "break" ? was it too tight in the first place and the holding arm snap ? was the glass a bit larger than 200 x 213mm ? were you using higher temperature and the clamp melted ?

Maybe you can use other's design where they uses screws to adjust for varies size of glasses. for example : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1796685

Monoprice Maker Select v2 Glass Bed Corner Clamps

Just that these plastic clips, like 99% of what is published here (a few a week), don't hold the glass tight against the bed, don't stand the heat form the bed ... Steel clips made out of steel strip or wire or simply from clips used to hold pictures are far superior, low profile and simpler to make .

Yes, you are right. On the other hand, if the heated bed was bow for some reason, clipping it down tightly on all 4 sides may not be a good idea either. We used glass for printing because it's flat, doesn't easily bow and maybe other reasons. These plastic clips hold the glass in place on the bed re: X and Y axis so it doesn't shift left/right, or front/back. I only use one clip just to make it a bit steady, should the bed is physically bowed, the glass is still flat and won't be force into a bow form by additional clips. Nothing is perfect, but these clips do solved 2 of the problems I encountered.