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Tiny Planetary Gears Set

by aubenc May 14, 2012
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Does This Take Supports???

No supports or raft required. Your printer must be fairly fine tuned though.

TL;DR - Is the Dremel 3D20 a suitable printer for printing models / projects that require precision?

I am very new to 3D Printing and have a bunch of issues. I am trying to figure where the problem lies:

  1. Me not knowing what settings to use,
  2. My choice of software,
  3. My printer.

I have a Dremel 3D20 and so far I have only used Dremel Digilab Slicer which comes with the printer and is based on Cura.

For design I have tried tinkercad and openSCAD, and 3rd party designs (like this thing).

For models I have tried:

  1. The rhino head that comes with the printer; that came out fine.2
  2. A few simple projects of my own e.g., a block with a hole through the middle. This caused issues because the actual dimensions didn't match the design. I contacted support but they blamed tinkercad and filament shrinkage. I got around that by playing with scale in the slicer.
  3. This thing. I have been using the Tiny Planetary Gears as a test for fit and finish, so to speak. My goal is to get something printed out that looks good and fits as expected but so far everything I have printed out has been junk. The threads are off. The knurling is off. The gears are clumsy. Nothing fits together. It looks nothing like the photos above.

I'm usually pretty good at figuring technical problems out for myself but after a couple of weeks of flailing around I wonder if I am being held back by my equipment or unrealistic expectation.

Sorry to read about that...

...and my apologies for not being able to answer your questions about the Dremel 3D20 printer, I'll be glad to test one and try to get this thing nicely made if the guys from Dremel want to send me one free of charge ;-)

From your comments (not even "a block with a hole through the middle" comes out nicely) I would try to figure out how to get your printed decently fine tuned first and then, if you still wish to do so, give this thing a try again.

This thing was designed to be able to be printed: overhangs don't exceed 45 degrees and gears have the tips out of the build platform to minimize or at least reduce mesh difficulties, you can also find more than 250 reported "makes" with nice pictures of it.

Could it be that you are trying to print to fast?

I would try to set the speed ridiculously low and try again your block with a hole and another couple of things, only after getting those things right, then you may like to scale this thing 150% up and try again.

Good luck!

Thanks for the reply!

I scaled it up this morning and started printing it before I left the house. I will check it when I get home.

I have the speed turned down from 50 to 30 (I think that is mm/s) because that's something else I have learned recently. I made that change to the profile a couple of days ago. There are lots of other printer settings but Dremel can't provide me support on what setting values to try so it's trial and error.

Dremel support is nice but not very helpful. I have been asking them for support materials and today I was directed to a video to calibrate my printer. The only issues?

  1. the URL was incorrect,
  2. once I figured out the correct URL, the links were for a Dremel 3D45 not a 3D20,
  3. all the links are broken so I can't even watch the incorrect video.

Dremel support doesn't really support software even though it's badged with their name and provided with the printer. It's been a rough introduction. :)

"you can also find more than 250 reported "makes" with nice pictures of it." -- yeah, I have no doubt the model design is perfect, especially with that many builds. I don't doubt that I am most likely the major issue until I get used to the nuances of 3D printing, but I am replacing the printer just to rule that out.

I scaled this to 125% and reprinted. It came out much better but the parts are a little tight so some tweaks required. The printed model still doesn't look as good as the other builds but not sure what to do about that; tinker I guess. The photo of the print of the single stage model looks "smooth", like nylon. Mine looks sharper it that makes sense.

Thanks for the models, I'm having fun reading through the code and understanding how this all fits together.

Printed 1 times stage kit. The print came out very well and we were able to assemble and worked very well. Thank you for sharing. This was wonderful experience.

Im confued. which parts should i print to just get 1 full model?

  1. Open plantetaryAssembly.scad
  2. Scroll down to line 126 (Sets)
  3. Uncomment out the kit you want to build
  4. F5 to preview, F6 to build (I found the preview resulted in overlapped parts but not the build).

Could you upload a file with just the drill bit attachment. I chucked it a bit too hard, and now it is bent and I don't want to print another one stage kit just for the drill attachment. Thanks

it's always been there, into the ZIP file.

Sorry, forgot to look there. What are the tolerances for this? I want to get a rough estimate for my printer without wasting PLA on one of those tolerance tests.

I printed in
150% size
0.3mm layer height
20% infill

It worked super great for me! sliced it with Craftware, which tends to have very dense infill on low percentages so I figured it would work.

I really like the design of this setup and would like to implement this in a project I am working on. Would you be able to provide the part files in a STEP(.stp) format or in some form of a solid part file?

Short answer: Unfortunatelly no, I can't.
Long answer: I guess I could but you can also do the same I should. As far as I know FreeCAD is what you need ;-)
Hope it helps, looking forward to see what you do with this.

Is there a way to change the clearence between the bolts and the annulus plate and end plate?

Yes, there are some easy ways to do it using OpenSCAD.

One easy way would be to change the "nut_n_bolt_gap" parameter (line 70) and compile the modules "annulus_plate()" (uncomment line105) and "end_plate()" (comment back line 105 and uncomment line 112).

A less easier but more efficient way would be to change the diameter of the "screws" (hard coded to 5) by changing it in line 506 (module "rod(ln)") and then compile the module "n_bolts(3, 58, 1)" (uncomment line 148). You may need to change the second parameter (58) accordingly to the number of stages you'd like to assemble.

Last but not least. I do encourage you to fine tune your printer (use active cooling can help too). It should work like it is and all your other prints should benefit from it ;-)

Hope it helps

Oh, I forgot to mention the simplest way of all them.

Go to "files",
download "planetaryAssembly.zip",
find the "screws" you need into the "single_parts" folder,
use your slicer or whatever the software you like to resize (only X and Y, NOT Z) those screws.


None of the parts will fit together for me

Sorry to hear that,
they shoud fit if made using a decently fine tuned printer.

I'm trying to build a 26:1 ratio gearbox and was thinking I could do a two stage system where I use a 4:1 planetary gear like this to drive a 6.5:1 planetary gear. Do you know of any good resources I could lookup to adjust this design to a 6.5:1?

Sorry for the late answer,
I don't know if I get it right, anyway, you can always take a look to the OpenSCAD scripts provided/used here to fetch data (concerning the gears and dimensions of parts) and then use whatever you like to make your own stage with the ratio you need.
For a 1:6.5 stage the number or teeth could be something like... ring:55, sun:11 and planets:22. That may, most probably will, result in a strange arrangement for the planets.
Another possibility would consist in a 2 stages planetary set with ratios like 1:5.2 and 1:5.
The number of teeth for the different gears for the 1:5.2 stage could be... ring:42, sun:10 and planets:16, and for the other stage... ring 40, sun:10 and planets:15.
Hope it helps.

Oeps, forget my comment about the 1:6.5 ratio, I missed the maths, the gears I suggested would end up in a 1:6 ratio.
For a 1:6.5 ratio I would rather suggest... ring:66, sun:12 and planets:27

Also for the suggested 1:5 ratio, you'd better try something like... ring:48, sun: 12 and planets: 18 teeth.

I don't understand the reasoning behind the recommended 0.25 layer height, is there a theory behind this?

Yes, there is a good reason.
The design uses this size for vertical gaps between parts, a multiple of it for various thickness and also a multiple of this height for the pitch of the "screws".
You may use any other layer height but if you intend to stack a few stages, things may not align properly and/or the resulting gap may end up with a too tight or loose fit.

this is a really cool to 3D print

Scaled to 1.5x. Printed with 0.4mm nozzle at 0.2mm layer height, works awesome. Im going to make the expanded version over the next few days

do the massive 145 screws have the same thread count as the smaller one my software wont let me see

Not sure to understand.
The "pitch" is the same and thus, they are 100% compatible with nuts and taps in the carrier.
This being said, they are very difficult to print and they may end up "not usable at all".
Give them a try and good luck!

can you run it backwards to make it spin really fast?

You can do whatever you like however, you shoudn't.
Detailed answer well bellow in the comments (I guess) and also in the description of the film in youtube.

Yo the screws are way too thin bro. Break easily. I thing I'm going to scale it up quit a bit.

I printed this with the Ultimaker 3 Extended and used PVA as support material which allows much cleaner removal. It turned out pretty well.

Why/where did you use support?

Really happy with the model! Printed on a Wanhao i3 with PLA 2.5 layer height, 0.4 nozzle, 20% infill, 4mm brim. Take your time assembling the 3 screws for the main frame. The frames need to be spaced close enough that the gears stay in alignment while far enough that it's smooth. Some grease helped for smoother operation.

My print wasn't perfect so the handle didn't stay threaded into the bolt. I used a lighter to heat up the end and pressed it flat with a wrench. The handle still spins freely since it was designed as a tube on an axis. Hope this helps others build this awesome model.

Really happy you printed it and you took the time to upload the make, thank you !!

Ok, I printed this and broke a small part while assembling it. How in the world do I ungroup it so I don't have to print the whole thing again?

I used netfabb studio, but Cura lets you do it right in the slicer. In netfabb, repair > rightclick and select shell > export as part

You may do this in one of the following three ways: 1. Use a slicer that allows you to do this. 2. Extract the part from "planetaryAssembli.zip" available to download here and... 3. Use "planetaryAssembly.scad" also in the zip file to generate the part. You can even play a little bit bit tolerances, when I'm not wrong, so you can adjust the fit of some parts to avoid having to force them to risk them breaking.
Hope it helps!

How do I put it together?

Follow the sequence of pictures, it should be quite straight forward.

I tried several times to print this, without success. When I print the 2x_stages_kit file, the bolts are always slightly too big to fit in the nuts and other holes. Same for gears and shafts. What I don't understand is that if I print a single bolt and nut instead of the whole plate, they are perfect! I suppose that when I print all at once, as the nozzle must travel between the different bolts and other tall objects, it creates small irregularities on the surface of the objects.

Anyone had that issue? Any idea how to prevent this?

I'm printing this on a Wanhao i3 with the following major mods: all-metal hotend, radial cooling fan, d4 extruder gear upgrade, z-braces. I tried both PLA and ABS and different temperatures.

calibrate your printer

I did with .5mm nozzle PLA , Felixprinter 3.1. Did not work. All holes are too small.... Try .35mm nozzle.

I did a few ones with my Cupcake with a +/-0.65mm nozzle, they were scaled up to 150% and printed just fine.
Let us know how the one with a 0.35mm nozzle turned out, it must work!

Did not work with .35 nozzle.... same problem. holes too small , axles to big.
Repetier host with cura slicer.Temp: hotend 199°C , Bed 60°C , initial Gap Nozzle/Bed 0.2mm..... any ideas?

Oh, I'm sorry to hear that. Unfortunatelly I don't now a thing about Repetier/Cura (I'm still using replicatorg-0039).
Holes too small & axles too big sounds like your printer's extruder is pushing too much material throug the nozzle.
There's one picture in this thing's page with two sets: one white, printed at 100% and another yellow scaled down to 60% its size. I also printed another set at 40% its size with my printer's 0.4mm nozzle. The gears for such a small thing turned out very well but I had to use tons of active cooling for screws and pins.

Tried another filament: white-glow green. Much better. Gears still tight but with little "fine tuning" now it works.

can this be used to increase speed if the output and input gears are reversed?

The short answer is no, or at least it shouldn't be used to increase speed.
Please check the youtube video for a more detailed answer.

Comments deleted.

And finally, should i use a raft

Comments deleted.

I never use a raft in my prints.

i am also printing at .1mm layer depth should i change it to .25mm

.25mm as stated in the instructions is a very good layer height for this thing. A lower value will just make the print to take way longer. Also, if there are issues with the setup of the printer, those issues will have a more negative impact with a smaller layer height.

i am using a makerbot replicator 5th or 4th gen on slowest speed(its my schools) and for some reason this will not print with high definition. it prints all of it but the gears cant even fit together and most of the time there is no hole in them. is there a problem with the file or should i make the printer go faster. please reply. sorry for spelling i am lazy .

I have a Replicator Dual 1st generation and never had any issue with the files (I always use the ones available for download here). The software I use doesn't know about resolutions as High, Medium or Low, I use profiles with a lot of different values for the parameters. This thing should print fine at 35mm/s, btw there should not be much difference in time at 35mm/s or say 150mm/s because there's no big square shaped parts thus the benefits of acceleration play a very small, still important, role here. If the gears don't fit... that sounds like there's too much material being extruded. If there's no hole in them... that sounds way too weird to me. Sorry that I cannot be of much help here but it all sounds as printers not properly set-up.

Hey great prototype! I am trying to learn how to build such objects for 3D printing, and I am wondering if you can share more about the exact process you followed to build this prototype. More specifically, did you manually and carefully design each part in OpenSCAD or another software, and did you use any software that will automate/make easy any of the design parts?

Hi, thanks for your kind words. Yes I designed everything using OpenSCAD.

The process? I first did a search in Thingiverse to see what gears libraries were available. I soon realized that I first needed to learn more about "involute" gears: youtube to the rescue...




Back again to the Thingiverse search I discovered that there's a great gears library bundled with OpenSCAD but my little brain is more in sync with the one by LeemonBaird which this thing is a derivative of.

Another couple of search on the web lead me to understand how ratios vary in a planetary arrangement depending on what moves and what doesn't.

Voilà! I just put everything together with the libraries for the screws and the knurls and this little thing came to live.

Great box, just finished printing and assembled first stage works well, Creatbot 0.4 extruder 3mm filement 100% fill. Made to 4 times scale quite big but everything fit together well with no clean up needed.

Thank you so much, love this design.
Could you please post the dwg. or solid files?

Oh, I'm sorry but OpenSCAD doesn't support those formats.
Thanks for liking it!

I like it. Thanks for putting it out there.

I printed this on my Solidoodle 3. I scaled up everything by 50%. I printed with .3mm extruder, 100% infill (for stronger bolts), relatively slow speeds, and a custom build plate with the bolts at each corner of the bed. This allowed each one to cool down between layers. I also very gently acetone-bathed the bolts for extra strength. All 3 stages on mine work beautifully. I wish the rods that the planets went on were a bit stronger though - I'd acetone them next time too.

Has anyone actually used this besides demonstration purposes? Im thinking of using something like this for a 1500:1 reduction for my filastruder,

Why in the world would you want such a reduction?...I think anything over like 20:1 will have you running a servo constantly at a high speed.

Yes, the existing options for gearboxes on the filastruder already have 800:1 and 1200:1 reduction with a normal DC motor running at high speed.

The auger just needs a whole lot of power and I checked some manufactures out and the torque I need is insanely expensive and these kinds of high reduction gearboxes aren't offered very often. I refrained from putting in a faster motor in my existing gearbox to keep the strain on the cogs low, a concers I wouldnt have with with a printed one.

Have you looked at a something like http://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=hypocycloid&sa= , if I'm not mistaken you could get a higher reduction in a fraction of the space.

And on the point of using this for anything, I would guess its a matter of modifying that last output to drive something more useful, maybe a toothed belt? I am not familiar with the filastruder setup but even redrawing that single part from scratch shouldnt be too hard. I'd also recommend metal fasteners for what you're attempting with spacers to keep the stages at their proper spacing.

Interesting concept, Im gonna read up on that.

and yes youre right, metal bolts, everything a tad bigger and maybe 4-5 planetsystem on top of each other should work.

Forgot about one more concept you might want to research, Worm gears

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:343922 (72:1)
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:51248 (244.14 quintillion to 1) ... insane

Hyperbolic Worm Gears
Printed Machine with Concrete

Rather unintentionally, this one taught me about the importance of having a correct extrusion multiplier... I am new to 3d printing and my twoup doesnt have a huge amount of help... Anyway I got this thing to print in el-cheapo PLA and it WORKED with NO FILING/SANDING!!! I am impressed that this worked on a 280$ printer. To anyone who didnt read the posting, USE .25MM LAYER DEPTH!!

What you printing this at? Nothing fits on my print? Wall thikness layer hight etc pls.

Sorry to read that. This may indeed be a difficult print however it's been reported made 150 times...

At a 1st glance it looks like, if "nothing fits", the parts end up bigger than they should be. Are sure that your printer does its job accurately (a 20mm cube measures 20x20x20 mm +/- 0.10mm once printed) ?

As stated in the instructions, without scaling it up or down, this thing was designed to be printed at 0.25mm layer height, you'll also find some tips about scaling it (depending on the nozzle size) and fill. Wall thickness... the thinner the better, not only for the fit but also for the fill of the teeth ends.

Hope this helps, looking forward to see another made!

Works very well as advertised on a Makerbot Replicator 2 printed in PLA, using Makerbot "Standard" settings. Requires a minimal amount of trimming with a modeling knife.

Very nice design, great work.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7GY8gXYPSohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?... (i made a video in finnish (language) if you wanna watch it working!

Believe it or not... I enjoyed more the video than you the pizza! Thank you !!

Cool! thanks :D I think that you didn't understand anything what I was talking about but at least you saw my products! You have done nice job with the model!

Awesome Thing(tm), really nice job !
I printed 2 on a Makerbot 2 with default makerware settings. 10% infill, 2 shells, and 200um layer height. no support, no raft. (PLA)
The pins on the bottom ring, that holds the planetary gears, kept breaking off, so I had to enlarge the diameter of the holes in the gears a little.

Glad you like it, thanks for making it!!!

Is there anyway you can post/email me individual parts for these models. Some of the parts broke when I tried to take them off of the makerbot platform so I need to print some more parts but I don't want to have to print an ENTIRE stage. Anyway you can post the individuals?

Sure, there's a compressed file (.ZIP) in this thing's "Thing Files" which should contain all of the individual parts. Let me know if you don't find what you need. Thanks!

I am in need of some help. I am working on a design for a large project & I need a planetary gear system that is on a 1:50 system basically the main rotation is a single rotation & the output is 50 rotations per single rotation @ the main, so I am wondering if this can do that sort of thing or will I need a completely different design?

Hmmm... (if I get it right) 50:1 it's quite an unusual approach because you need huge torque and very low speed in the input as well as gears made in a material that's up to the task, they will also need to be lubricated and cooled down, even very low friction will generate a lot of heat resulting in dimensional changes of the gears which will result in more friction, thus more heat thus... a lot of chances for failure. You may like to print a 3 stages (1:64) and try to use the output as input. Something will break very soon.

For this ratio I would consider designing a non planetary gear system, it's way easier to build a "traditional" gear train with two sets of gears (1:5 and 1:10) or, even better three (1:5, 1:5, 1:2). Hope it helps

Hey there, awesome model! I am trying to print this on a Lulzbot TAZ 3, and am having some problems getting it to work. What happens is that the plastic seems to "slump" a little on the first layer (I print with no support), making the holes smaller than they should be, and meaning I have to trim them out to get them to work, which looks kind of ugly. I am also getting problems with the taller parts not printing, as they stop printing about an inch from the bed, with the extruder seeming to either knock them over, or the layers not sticking together. I am trying again, with the printer in a more sheltered location from drafts, but any other suggestions for either problem?

Glad you like it and sad to hear about the issues you're finding to print this :(
Looks like your printer needs a little bit of fine tunning (?). A sligtly fatter 1st layer (or a few of them) is normal, the excess should be easy to remove wherever it may be needed. If not, or your software is making them too fat or the nozzle is way too close to the build platform at Z0 position. This and the other problems you describe depend a lot on the material being extruded (ABS, PLA, ...) their quality and the way they are layd down (too hot/cold or fast/slow). Environment conditions may also have an impact...
Hope you get all those solved and we see soon another copy of this popping up in the "made" section!
Thank you!

Thanks! I will keep trying, and I am definitely still getting this printer set up. Question: are most people printing this model without a raft, or with one? I am thinking that printing directly onto the bed might cause some slumping as the layers build up.

I guess it may... however, a raft may also introduce other issues. Dunno what most of the people do, I've been printing quite a lot of those in both materials: ABS (mostly) and PLA, all of them without a raft, some have been printed on glass+hairspray, other on kapton and some on blue painters tape.

Just made one in OD green!! Scale was 125%, .5 nozzle, .25 layer height, 85% infill, on an Airwolf 3D printer. Print came out great in my opinion. I did break one of the screws and glued it back together (my fault). Everything meshed perfectly with these settings and size.

Very beautiful one! Thanks for posting the pic!!

I've break thousands of screws myself, until now, what it works the best to me is heating the two pieces with a thin blade attached to an old solder iron and "fuse" them back together in the right orientation.

I scaled this up to 200% in Cuda with .1mm layer height and it printed and worked like a dream! I posted a picture in the "I made this section". A few of the parts fell over during printing but they were done enough for assembly to work. This was due to me being an idiot and turning on the AC in the room before heading to bed which lowered the room temp and caused the items to become detached form the platform and get knocked over by the print head (oops). I should have a video up on my YouTube channel tonight!

Wow! Really worth to take a look to your "made one". The combination size and quality is plain amazing!! Well done and thanks for sharing the pic!!!

Awesome design, and proof that I really need to tune my settings! I've been printing fine for most stuff, but my Cupcake w/Gen4 electronics and ABS may not be up to the task on this without some serious tuning... the first print I did resulted in everything being too big to fit together, so I'm going to try scaling each part up to twice it's size and lowering my flow settings just a touch

Thank you!

I hope your Cupcake will get it. Mine just needed to scale up everything up to 150%. I need to mention that I had "some" work though. Because bot1334 is still Gen3 and MK4 style extruder (and, to make it worse, home made hot end) I had to print every single part in a separate build but for the planets which are too small, even @150%. I had to use a knife to clean the ooze between planets and the excess of material in the bottom of the parts or the teeth wouldn't mesh.

You may like to use the OpenSCAD to increase the tolerance (however it will take some time to compile every single part) or use the annulus and 4 planets for testing the fit (the planets' dimensions are the same than the sun).

Looking forward to see your Cupcake's copy of this!

Printed on my Replicator 2 with yellow PLA(had stringy issue with Green), had to clean the hole sizes slightly but everything else fitted perfectly. Nice Job.

Im trying to print this at 225% and everything prints and fits fine (the planets) but I need to get some parts separated. Specifically if the planets can be taken out of the crank/handle assembly.

the parts Im missing right now (because they wont fit on the plate) are the crank/handle assembly, and the start and end pieces with washers.

225% !! Hope you let us see it :)

Every single part was include into planetaryAssembly.zip
Let me know if you need me to do something more.

I didnt see those files, but I got them now. I'm still printing - its taking a while at 80%infill. Though something my gf pointed out might be useful for people is an exploded view. I explained how it worked and all, but I see her point for a multiple stage gear box/set

I printed at 200% and everything worked perfectly printed on an Ultimaker 3D printer in PLA.

I just printed mine, and I double sized it and it came out awesome. I only did two stages, and now I'm going to do the complete 6 stage one, but only going to scale it 150%.

Beautiful one!!
Looking forward to see that 6x, omg, 6x!!

Its done, they are so much fun to play with and make great 'stress balls'. The pink one is 200%, the multicolor one is 150%

The pink one is 200%, the multicolor one is 150% and both of them look absolutely awesome!!

I just tried to print this on a replicator 2 (with PLA) and the bolts didn't fit into any of the sockets. Has anyone else had this problem/is there a work-around?

I was able to print this on my REPLICATOR 2. Just use the default settings, which are,15% infill, 3 shells, and layer height 0.1. It'll print perfectly.

Sorry to hear that.

Threads may be tricky to print, specially when they are in small parts like the ones in this thing.

You may like to carefully scrap out a little bit of PLA from them. For the plates use a x-acto like hobby knife or a small file and for the screws a flat file or some sanding paper.

Another thing you could do is use Makerware to scale down X and Y (leaving Z unaltered) for the screws (you can find them in the zip file).

Of course, you can also use the OpenSCAD to change the tolerance between nuts and bolts. However, this may have unwanted side-effects.

People with extremelly fine-tuned slicing profiles have reported the opposite (the fit was too loose).

Hopefully the first (and easiest) workaround (just don't remove all the threads!) will do the trick.

Not sure if possible to create... but might you be able to also post the DXF file equiv. for the different parts?  In the case of multiple gears molded into one shaft... acyrlic or wood could be glued together on the same shaft...  looking to create this gearbox using a laser cutter
thanks much, GMT

Glad you like it!

Good news is: This thing has been designed with OpenSCAD which allows you to export the parts as DXF.

Now the not so good news... :(

If I'm not wrong, there's not a single part that can be just ported to a 2D drawing without having to rework it, i.e. the gears have a small bevel at the tip of the teeth, all the threaded taps should be replaced by just holes sized to accommodate some (metric or imperial) standard size and the planets carrier should be redesigned to use some sort of tube or pins (this thing is very small and I don't think that stacking layers would make it).

I don't have access to a laser cutter to play a little bit and learn how to do it right, I'm afraid that I'm not able to put the time that all the changes would require. I'm very sorry for that.

That being said, if you'd like to do most of the work (derivative or new thing for laser cutter) I can help a little (very little) bit. i.e. it's very easy to me to provide the gears to your specs.

Just let me know...

SO amazing! My Replicator arrived on Friday and I thought what better way to calibrate it than with this model; it was my first print! Your settings are right on the dot! I went through SF37 settings one by one (took me an hour or so) and what a difference! Thank you so much for saving me a ton of time! =-X =-X Two smily faces!!

Awesome! You've been quite busy with this thing ;) I love it, thanks for printing it!

Way to go! When my replicator arrives this is the second print! Going to give it a go on my TOM too!

Can't wait for you'r Replicator to arrive... :-D

After building it in basic ivory, I decided to build this at 2x size and used 5 different colors. This was built on a Fortus 250mc at 0.007" at 2x using Red, Yellow, Nectarine, Blue, and Steel Grey. Enjoy!

Included in the pic is a US Nickel to show scale.

Absolutely colorful awesome!

Don't use sclic3r 0.8.2 on this. I printed it great on 7.2b but after the upgrade to 0.8.2 the holes were too large. If using sclic3r 0.8.2 don't blame the thing, check your software. :)

Known issue that heavily affects this thing. https://github.com/alexrj/Slic3r/issues/418https://github.com/alexrj/Slic...

That has been fixed with 0.9.x Slic3r 0.9.x is the best thing since sliced bread. My prints are now better than I ever could have hoped for.

This part came out great on my Fortus 250mc. Layer resolution was 0.007" and I built it at 125%. Went together great!

I was marvelling about the definition and the quality when I first saw it in the "made things" section. Now I understand it better ;-)

With such a printer, I guess it would also work at 75% 8-)

Thanks a lot for posting the pic and comment!!

At this moment I feel like I need to say something:

I was happy when I saw the "likes" rising, pleased to see it featured, surprised that it made it to the popular #1, astonished to see the blog posts talking about it, number of youtube views, comments, twitter, Google+, Facebook and the like...


what I love the most is the feedback received,
comments, tries, successful prints, people sharing the settings for the different set-ups...

Thank you.

I liked it so much i had to print the extension kit. Fantastic design, thanks.

I'm so glad you did it!

Your copy is amazing, it's the 1st time I see so clear the smoothed surface of the knurl in the crank (I don't remember if I set it to a 50% or to 40%).

Thank you !!

a quick video of the 4 stage version in action: http://youtu.be/Qfuwpd945SIhttp://youtu.be/Qfuwpd945SI

Great model! :)


Awesome video. That fourth stage is insane.

I would rather say...

Great print!

Thanks a lot for the video too!!

Thanks :)

I wanted to see how well it scaled too, and as expected it worked great.

Here is a pic of the original sized 4 stage version at .25mm Z res. next to a 2 stage version scaled up 35% with a .2mm Z res.

The movement is even smoother in this one.

Way too cool!!

I can tell a lot of work went into this. Worked perfectly first print, and bumped up the size by 25%. This was the most complex thing I've put through my Printrbot. Simply Amazing! Thanks.

Settings? Trying to run it through my Printrbot now.

I don't think he will read this... you may like to send him a message (visit his profile and scroll down to find the button). Hope he helps you and we see another another set showing up in the "made one" section :-D

Even the failures are beautiful :)

:) Believe me, it's even more beautiful without failures ;)

Looks like the gears have been having hard time to get printed... I see a Replicator in the background. If not done yet, I would try with the profile I included in the ZIP. Don't forget to use Multiply to print the 3 planets in one build (one planet at a time can be hard to get it right).

Hope I'
ll soon see this set completed!!

I tried a few times to get the print working for me to no avail. The tolerances between things such as the nuts and bolts are too tight. I'd rather not change and export from the SCAD file, so do people have suggestions how I can get Slic3r to work? Could this be from a bad Esteps value? I can get the layer height down to where I need it, but I have had overall very poor luck figuring out calibration with my printer (Prusa, Makergear).

I believe the key here is to get a perimeter width that suits the model. Slic3r's default width is inversely proportional to layer height (within limits). Try changing layer height or width over height ratio. The "wall width" calculated by slic3r is shown in the gcode header. For me, 0.49 mm worked ok, which I got with nozzle .35 and layer .20. Good luck :)

I'm sorry to hear that, unfortunatelly, I cannot be of much help because I have never used Slic3r. Hope someone will help here.

Anyway, if the tolerances are way too tight, it looks clear that too much material is being laid down from the nozzle. I would try to either decrease the flowrate or increase the feedrate (or both). Also, you may like to increase the layer height.

Good luck!

Nice work, very cool.

Just a silly comment, hope you will forgive me...

If only a 10% of the stages that have been downloaded to date where printed and stacked together and the input stage was rotating at 250RPM, in ideal conditions where nothing never breaks or wears, it would take 1.29x10^235 years to the output stage to give only one turn. The whole thing should fi
t inside a 40mm id tube/pipe with a total length of 4.6655 meters.

00,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000 years

Totally awesome!

Definitely needed some tuning to get slic3r and my .35 nozzle to print working versions of this... Latest git version (0.7.3-dev?), one perimeter and .20 layer height was the key to success! I left infill at 25% but slic3r produced mostly solid infill anyway. Two more stages tomorrow...

Agreed! To-ta-lly awesome!! I'm talking about the print ;)

Can't wait to see the remaining 2 stages. Thank you!

Here is the full set, with better lighting. Four stages are almost too much, it feels like nothing is happening even when cranking at max speed :)

WOW ! Can't stop admiring this picture.

Wow, beautifull prints !

I wanted to see if my 3dprinter was also able to make these tiny parts.
It is, but far from beautifull.
I used my own adapted profile and the one (PLA) from the planetaryAssembly.zip but my skeinforge makes it with hardly no infill as can be seen in the pictures. This is also how my prints look.

May I ask how you get those awesome prints with infill?
Thanks ! :)

Hmmm... hard to tell. I'm not really good at fine tunning, the number of parameters involved and their naming it's quite a difficult thing to me to get it right.

I'm affraid that the profile included in the ZIP will not be of much help for other printers than the Replicator or at least printers with an MK8 (may be MK7 too ?) + 0.4mm nozzle and using 1.75mm filament.

In Fill preferences I was setting all the Extra Shells to zero and infill Solidity to 60%.

In Carve I was adjusting Witdth over Thickness accordingly to nozzle size and Layer Height (set to 0.25) : 0.4/0.25=1.6

I did some changes in Dimension which I'm not able to explain, just to get the plastic extruded at the right point when changing from one part to the next one.

And the last thi
ng I did is adjust Feedrate and Flowrate.

This beeing said...

Looking at the images you posted, it looks like you have more shells than just the outer perimeters, the parts are too thin and there's no place for the extra shells but, because there are extra shells in your profile (just an assumptio
n) then there's no place for infill neither resulting in an empty space between the outer perimeters.

It could also happen that the combination of speeds (Feed and Flow rates) and Width over Thickness is not allowing room enough for any infill (just gessing here because it looks like there's space
for some infill in the teeth)

I would 1st check that there's no extra shells, infill is set to something different than zero and Width over Thickness is set at the right value. If there's still no infill showing up then, then I would try to decrease Flowrate and increase Feedrate. If that is not he
lping neither then I would try to increase the layer height and set Width over Thickness accordingly.

It could also help to check if your printer is in the menu: Machine -
gt; Machine Type -
gt; Other Bots (I don't know if versions previous to 0034 also have this implemented) and then use Print-O-Matic with the adequate parameters, filament diameter, number of shells =0, nozzle size... and like.

Sorry for the long answer, I just feel myself a little bit lost when I have to tweak the profile. I really like to read how it went and if that info was of some use ???

Hope to see your Tiny Planetary System soon, good luck!!

Thanks for your help !

After playing with those parameters and removing the extra shells the prints starts to get better.

Now I only have to fine-tune a little bit.

Thanks again

That's what I call good news!

Looking forward to see a picture of it :-D

I used your profile on my replicator which definitely helped with the quality. Still took a few tries to to get all the parts I needed for a functional model, but now I have a 4-stage set which is an awesome example of what can be done with a Replicator.

I'm sorry for the tries, I admire the spirit of not giving up. I must admit that it also took me
a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/derivative:28593http://www.thingiverse.com/der..."
quite a few tries

Glad to hear that the profile helped and happy as one can be to see that 4 stage looking so good!!!

Thanks a lot for the feedback!

So cool, great design 8-)

Thank you :-D

Awesome print! I enjoy prints without a raft or support and this gear set is awesome to play with. Thanks!

Wow! Thank you and also thank you for the print
amp;pic !!

btw, it looks... huge! How much did you scaled it ?

Awesome! Beveled tiny teeth!

:-D even if it's only the tip of the teeth, it really makes a difference.