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ahaer

PrintrBot Simple Y-Axis GT2 Belt & Extension

by ahaer Jan 20, 2014
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I have extended my X axis, from the stock 150mm for the simple metal to 220mm using a glass cutting board. I have changed my printer size in both repetier and slic3r. The build volume in repetier seems to reflect the changes, however the printer prints a 150mm object which is supposed to be a 200mm object. What do I need to do to be able to utilize the increased printable area? Thanks for your help.

Never mind. I looked at your x axis extension and saw where you had mentioned the M208 command. Thanks.

I am looking to get my simple to print 200mm out. is there anyway you could provide me with a file for that? or better yet 2 pieces that could be bolted together in order to be printable on the simple with xl bed?

I'll see what I can do but I'm not sure when I will get to it...

In the meantime you can checkout approach to extending the Y axis here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:242185http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

Printrbot Simple, 300mm Y Axis-No Sag!

Just got a shiny red Alu extruder in the mail today! Going to test it out with this arm and will update with results this weekend after some tinkering. So far it looks good, as it uses the same vertical back piece. May have to get fancy with the fan/shroud.

Can't wait to see a photo of the new extruder!

Ahaer i have a question. Apart from the length of cables, is there any other limitation to extend the length of your Y structure ?
(if it's too long maybe it tends to bend when the extruder head is far ?). Have you tried longer than this ?

I use OpenSCAD to create my models and have set it up so that there is one variable that controls the travel amount. I can easily make a model of any length. With 360mm x-axis extension I could theoretically print one with 240mm of y-axis travel. I have not tried yet for two reasons. First I am a little worried about sag with the weight of the extruder motor - I was thinking of evaluating when I get a bowden setup working. Second, the existing part is very hard to print without curling do to the long straight runs. I'm playing with some model changes that I hope will lessen that without too much loss of strength. The other thing would be to add some sort of heating but that can get tricky with the large odd sized bed.

This could work really well with a bowden conversion. Have you been able to print with this configuration?

I planned to experiment with a bowden conversion but haven't gotten around to it yet. Do you know of any good bowden examples I could work from?

I'm working on one now ( http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:253971http://www.thingiverse.com/thi... ), though it's a replacement of the stock 2014 aluminum direct drive extruder. You could really easily remix mine to mount to yours though.

Printrbot Simple 2014 Bowden Extruder Conversion
by jhoff

I wanted to comment on an alternative to the 10" and 12" rods that I was able to perform on my simple with this mod. If you are just trying to extend your print area to the entire bed after performing the X-axis mod, (You lose about 12mm of bed) you can use the 2x 10" rods from the old X-axis plate in the carrier arm.

You will need to place the end-stop flag on the top rod, in-between the bearing and carrier bracket, and then secure with glue (or other method) once adjusted. I can now use my entire bed! You will still need to update the firmware according to your measurements.

Great point!
I made the ystop slide on the rod because I was not 100% sure where it would wind up. I'll make a new part that will screw on the main carriage so that you can use the 2 old 10" x-axis rods.

How is the sag on this? It's bad enough stock. I would imagine unless the Z carriage is redesigned to allow wider spacing of the linear bearings for the Y axis smooth rods, the Y axis sag will be a significant problem. How much of a drop are you getting with this?

If I fully extend the y-axis (y=0) and measure the distance from the desk I get 83.4mm and when I go all the way back (y=160) I get 87.5mm. This means the carrier height is off by 4.1mm over 160mm of travel or 2.5%. I didn't make measurements before but I don't get the impression it is any different than before. One indication of that is that I leveled the bed with the original parts and did not need to relevel after I put in the new carrier...

I am using firmware from (http://www.printrbottalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=106&t=4425#p37714)http://www.printrbottalk.com/f... elkniwt that supports firmware correction of the skew. I'm about to try the newly released auto bed leveling firmware which should automate the process