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FFCP Nozzle Tool

by Mark_Landsaat Apr 27, 2017
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im fairly new to 3d printing, so correct me if i'm wrong but from what i understand, the nozzle needs to be hot before removal. im assuming this has something to do with the leftover plastic inside the nozzle...

printed in abs works perfectly

I love the idea of using this tool! Are there any precautions you would take to make sure things break away and install more easily? I know a lot of folks say to have the nozzle at-temp, but having burned myself a few times on the hot-end, I don't want to go through that experience again. If I can replace nozzles cold, that's great!

Hi Amarand, One of the things I have done to make sure replacing the nozzles cold, is to make sure the teflon insert is long enough so it gets compressed when you tighten the nozzle.

I purchased 3ft of teflon tube from Amazon and cut my own teflon inserts. It is a little tricky to get the length right, but if you do get the length right the nozzle will compress the teflon tube ever so slightly when you tighten the nozzle. This results in the teflon tube ends being pushed up against the nozzle on the inside and it prevents filament from oozing out into the threads.

I know there are some comments that this doesn't work, but I have been using it for several months now and hey, if the tool does break, I will print a new one :)

I have never busted my knuckles on a 3D printer. I have when working on my Jeep and my motorcycles. I do like to recognize and encourage people who come up with smarter and cooler pocket tools to make some jobs a little simpler on this website.

Thanks for the feedback knuckleup

This is actually pretty cool. The great thing about this is that it keeps both blocks square. You can use this on an hotend even if the temp is hot, despite what others may say, if you use the right material. I printed this with PETG and its fine. I can use a wrench but that can slip, which has happen , and I have torn or peeled off the protective sheet. This keeps it straight, square and easy to manage.

Got your knuckle busted ? Happens to beginners :-)

When unscrewing the nozzle better work at the rated T° for the filament ! So with such a plastic wrench, good luck.
BTW, takes 15 min to make a suitable tool like an open wrench, out of a 1.2 - 2 mm steel sheet. Easy to find in an old printer, PC ...

Well, when I work on my printer it is A turned off and B cooled down. I don't want to get my fingers near a 230 degree hot end. So for me, with a turned off cold printer it is working just fine.

Till you will break a nozzle. There is often leakage in these hot ends with melted filament seeping in the thread.
Anyway, my comments are for everyone to read and be warned accordingly.
Besides it takes less time to make a proper steel tool than this plastic thing.

IF you have the ability to make something out of steel sure, which I don't, and I'm sure most people don't either, so this is a great find!

Nice job Mark!!

A drill, a hacksaw and files is all what is needed. If people don't have or can't use these, they better buy good 3D printers from a mfg. They will never be able to get something decent from these cheap 3D printer kits.

What are you? Superman? How thick are these sheets when you're hacksawing through? is this a sweaty job?
Also, are you saying that the FFCP is cheap? Because I think it gets the job done pretty decently. What are your standards? Care to share?