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toosha

ANET A8 E3D carriage

by toosha Apr 28, 2017
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hey! I like the design and I've printed everything. however, your code in 'configure.h' is wrong for me, I've checked multiple times and still is the same as yours. everything is fine apart from the fact that no matter how i level it, the print nozzle is way too high. its about 3-4mm too high. Any help please?

hi, depends on actual fw, but go to menu control/motion/z-offset and adjust required offset value between nozzle and the sensor activation.
then go one menu up and store the setting.

I can't. its at the lowest it can be

if the nozzle is too high you need to set the offset lower value ... i tried my printer and it goes below minus 10mm which is usually maximal detection distance of common proximity senders. what sensor and bracket do you use? Can you move it a bit higher if you are out of Z-offset?

i used the v6f bracket with the Tronxy sensor.
I cant get the Z offset lower than 0.5. How did you get it to go lower?

I use Marlin 1.1.8 fw. and I didn't change the range constants. Have look at the program in Arduino IDE and try to find constants defining the range of Z-offset and change them to whatever you need like -20 to 20mm. Or use a different version of the bracket. There was also an adjustable remix(https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2423138) , but I prefer non-adjustable or in-steps adjustable variant.

Cubic Z (Auto Level Proxy) Sensor + Fan Clamp for ANET A8 E3D carriage by toosha

how do i change the z position of the nozzle. and what number should i change that too, if i should increase or decrease it (i'm guessing decrease). And thank you very much for showing me that remix. Looks very good!

decrease to get the nozzle closer to the bed, e.g. if it's about 3mm high of the bed then put -3mm as Z-offset.

Thank you very much! got everything perfectly working!!

Hi, love the design!

Any chance of getting a fan clamp with an inductive sensor mount with an 18mm diameter?

Thanks!

Hi, It might be better to attach the sender at the back on the bearing case and use the clamp without a mount. Capacitive senders drift with temperature more than inductive. So it's better to place it out of the airflow of the hotend cooler. Also there isn't much space to mount a big diameter sensor..

Hey! I had to offset the clamp_v4 0.2mm below the bed, as the arm for the fan was not flat to the bed. I've attached a screenshot from S3D to show what I mean.

I at least assume that printing 'upside down' is what you meant in this orientation, so the outer most part of the clamp is flat to the bed.

Hi, it's weird. I'm on b-trip and I can't check the 3d data model at the moment. Does it happen if you try to slice other versions too? I use cura and if something similar happens with a model I normally use option lay flat and if that doesn't help then you can increase thickness of the first layer.

Hello, I am changing to E3DV6 and am interested in your carriage. Is there any mount for the pibot sensor http://www.pibot.com/pibot-optical-reflection-endstop-rev143.html ?

Hi, I can't see any drawings of the pibot sensor. It might be easier to attach it at the back on the bearing case

THIS THING WAS A PAIN IN THE ASS TO PUT TOGETHER!!!...Did anyone else had trouble?

Which part of assembly was so hard for you? I can update description then...

I just got done with it, its a great design being my 4th e3d carriage I printed...i really do like how very sturdy and light it is! But the only part that was really painful was trying to install the nuts and screws honestly, maybe its just my printer calibration or just me, but took me couple hrs just to install the nuts on the side where it clamps on and the holes for where the screws goes in were very very tight where i had to use a lot of force just to instalk the m3 screws on the clamp and the auto level sensor, i solved it all by using a drill bit for the holes and using a lighter for the nut to melt it in place after that it was good to go

I see, it's designed to fit tight. I use pair of plies to press the nuts and a M3 bolt with a conic tip to drive threads in the plastic. Also check the calibration. Cheees

I did check my printer and its really well calibrated and fine-tuned, (Extruder e-steps, filament, flow, z-height, fan, and PID) I even test printed a calibration cube to see if it is my Anet A6....and measurement came out great!
Just curious tho, where can I get the M3 bolt with conic tips at?? I checked Home depot, and Menards No Luck :(....My blue cubic auto level sensor got loose during print, making it slightly touch the hotend and melting it alil bit... -_-

I just made one on grinder. It really serves as thread tool. The holes are 0.8x3 =2.4mm which is recommended hole size for M3 bolts.

what size did you use for the two M3 bolts to attach the clamp??

Allen key head bolt M3 from 15 to 20mm long. I reused some of Anet A8 extruder kit

hi i am trying to print v6d bed level part and i am geting the problem of it prints part of the part in support could u help and i am useing cura

all brackets are printed upside down - laying on the flat front surface without any supports. Other than that use your proven settings.

Oh crap v6e clamp isn't compatible with gearbest autoleveling sensor. Sensor is too low.

what gearbest sender do you mean?

I can customize the bracket if you give me following dimensions: distance between the bolts min and max distance of the bolts' centers to the sensing front face.

centers: 11mm
min: 26.5 mm
max: 34 mm

I just received the blue SN04-N sender (the same you call gearbest type) and it fits ok to originally published bracket. There suppose to be just about 1mm gap between the sender and the printing bed when the nozzle is touching the bed. Anyway you have more choices now

Well it depends on length of the E3D you have. Mine certainly didn't work with original clamp and I had to use two sided tape meantime :) Well new one is printed and ready to be installed when I got some time to fiddle again.

Hi I just edited the clamp, try clamp v6h or v6j and let me please know how it works

Thank you for the design I like how lite it is. I was wondering if you were willing to part with the original CAD files? I am having a small issue with the screw locations and I want to add holes to handle a printed belt tension-er. The update with the 18mm sensor is a great addition. I would like to move it to the other side. I am having all sorts of issues with the heat block and the location of the cables. I would appreciate it. Thanks

Hi mate, thanks for your feedback. I was also considering re-positioning of the probe to a colder area since the cubic type ( orange) gives me inconsistent measurements.. The round type probes seem to be better temperature compensated (tested 8mm, 12mm) . I have a bad experience with tensioners mounted at the back of the carriage. Most of them are weak and without mods of Z idler they tend to bent vertical rods. A much better option are tensioners located at the right Z idler. I can recommend https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1428253 idler with modified inserts https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2271909, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2271158. I'm also going to design a belt clamp for carriage. No cdw files, It's designed in Sketchup :(

X Motor mount for Anet A8
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X idler tensioner side remix
by toosha
X Motor mount for Anet A8 - pulley bracket
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No problem. I will load into TinkerCad and see what I can come up with. For the belt tensioner, you are correct I use something on the right side of the Z axis. I use https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2016779 for the back of the carriage and drilled a few holes in the back of the plate that I printed and it worked great. I want to just incorporate it directly into the plate as well as move the bottom mounting holes down a bit to handle the gap correctly. The plate itself caused the two horizontal rods to get pulled together and bind the entire setup. Also, I have changed over to igus solid polymer blocks and there is no longer any room for movement on the vertical plane. They are fantastic when they are allowed to move freely. I will let you know what I come up with. Thanks

X Belt holder part for Anet A8 and Prusa I3 only for GT2 Belt 1.3-1.4mm
by kiss1

It's me again!

I want to use this http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1337200 , and the problem is that the mounting for the fan and the prob don't pass with this and I don't want to use the stock fan anymore.

I'm planning to deport the prob behind with the mounting probe in this http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2236501

Can you provide a block without the diagonal for the fan?

Many thanks :D

E3D V5 & V6 SINGLE & DUAL fan duct holder (Prusa I3) VER 2.0
by trustfm
Anet A8 Dual Bowden with Autolevel (18mm inductive)
by dhw666

I just add another clamp version without the bracket - "clamp v5 no fan". Can you provide me a short review of your setup when you finish it? I'm quite curious how this double fan holder works especially if it doesn't move much on E3D

Of course I can! Many thanks to you. I need 2 40mm fans and I can mount all the things

thanks in advance, I just updated the bare clamp - it's a bit lower now as it didn't need to be that massive as for fanless versions

I like this because it looks simple, light. I have some question before printing, what's the hight of the E3DV6 you use? (5,5 mm or 6 mm?).
And what the weight of the structure?
Can you provide more pictures of your hot end plz? :)
And most of all, very good work! Keep going and you'll have the best bowden carriage for the anet

Thanks, I wasn't much happy with available upgrades for Anet A8 which lead me to design or remix set of items (see my profile) which are functional and robust. Cura says that the carriage(1.2mm walls 50%infill) with the clamp (100% infill) weights about 30 grams. The notch at the clamp is designed for 6mm height if it's what you mean. I use a chinese copy as the most of guys using this printer won't buy an original one... Thermistor and heating element wires are facing back. I'm also testing PLA bushings instead of the noisy and heavy ball bearings. They are much more lighter and quieter option compared to factory ball bearings, but I'm unsure about durability yet.

Thx!
Also, I see that autoleveling was a good idea, but I don't know how to upgrade my Anet to Skynet (I saw that PID for hot end is a good improvment), in fact I'm prety scared to f**ck up everything... don't know what to buy for sensor too. Have you a link to a very good tutorial? which is correlated to your carriage.

there are heaps of videos how to upgrade ANET A8 to skynet step by step including predefined configuration files for different setups on youtube, just search ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Ms3l5h9M9U&t=12s ). I also highly recommend Tom's tutorials about 3D printing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3gwWVFtdg-4&t=604s which gives you comprehensive info.

I printed this out and then took my printer apart. Now I realize there are no instructions or pictures. Not sure how the belt is connected. Can you take some pictures of the back side?

It's a very similar setup to the factory one., because I've had issues with printed belt brackets. You'll need 4x M3 nuts, 2x M3x20 to 30 bolts, 2x M3 flat washers and zip ties. Two nuts fits to the brackets on the front face. other two secure the bolts of the other side of the carriage. I'll upload a picture.

What was the blower nozzle you used for this?

Does this require a modification to the firmware for the new X and Y positions?

Looks great, I really like how simple and compact it is. Plus it looks to be an easy print!

thanks, you can use either factory fw., , but the printing area will be shifted a bit. If you use skynet fw or so just change the following parameter in your configuration.h #define X_MIN_POS -10. Y_MIN_has changed a bit too, try original the value and substract another 3mm.
The nozzle on the picture was my first sketch which unlikely collided with the extruder block. I'm going to post one when it's ready or you can slightly modify one of thingiverse. The nozzle is aligned with fan exit in x axis and Y distance is 24mm center to center.
there are going to be more mods, like holder for inductive sender and bracket for 5mm LED .

Cool, thanks! I will probably just wait until you have made some tweaks before moving to this. I am not in a big hurry to convert to this as what I have works.

no worries, I'm running a 2 weeks stress test at the moment. I used color changing PLA for the prototype to easily identify critical areas of a higher temperature load. If I'll find some troubles after this period I'll update the files and the description. The attached nozzle (up 0.7mm version) works very well with my setup.