MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.

Download Now


Creality CR-10 E3D Titan mount

by Lucashayes Apr 25, 2017
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

Just great. Thank you.

Hi, is this the same mount Tim is using in this video? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ahl9r-1K75Q
I'm wondering mainly if two of these mounts can be used back to back to handle dual Tough extruders. Thanks.

Does this work if you get the Titan Motor as well?

I am just really happy with this mount and as thankful gesture I want to write an instruction.
Here is the info what to do to upgrade your default ender 3 or creality CR-10 plastic extruder to E3D Titan. First. I used instruction from E3D https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/1.75mm+Bowden+Titan+Assembly/20?lang=en . Second you need to change extruder motor cable pin contact to correct ones, because otherwise filament will go back and not forward. For that I added picture how to( I used tweezers to push pins and slide them out). Third you need to calibrate your extruder steps for correct amnout of filament feed. Go to control straight to the bottom and you see e steps (or something like that) standard is 93, you need to adjust to 420. Fourth steep is exact filament feed calibration, this you can do it by removing bowden tube from hotend, so filament could slide easily through calibration. Then you just mark 100 mm from extruder and feed 100 through extruder move axis > e axis. And then adjust e steps again increase or decrease, finally press " store memory" this will save your change.
You now should have a much more consistent extrusion.

Can someone please provide his Slic3r or another profile because I got extreme stringing/oozing problems for my prints with the Titan.
Tried all the settings about Retraction up to 6mm, Z Lift on/off, wipe, retract on layer change.
BUT all I get is extreme stringing or poor quality print but without stringing....


is it possible to install titan without changing firmware ? using this guide

Yes, if you don't want to change the E-steps/mm in the source code and compile it, you have two other possibilities:

  1. Set the E-steps/mm with the command M92 E### (where ### is your new measured E-steps), and store the settings with the M500 command. Note: this works only if your firmware is enabled to store settings to the EEPROM
  2. Set the E-steps/mm with the command M92 E### (where ### is your new measured E-steps) in the start of your gcode. Most slicers have a field for that (i.e. Start Gcode).

Cheers! Sacha

Did i need the normal titan or the mirrored titan for the cr-10 ?

If you use a left side Titian the feed would then be at the top and the gear wouldn't be near the bed

Thanks for sharing!! I take we need to modify the stock firmware with a bootloader enabled one, right?
DId you upgrade yours to Marlin 1.1.2 yet? Care to share it too? ;)

Was the only thing you had to change the esteps or did you have to do more? And have you noticed any difference in quality?

Needed to adjust esteps (ended up being around 418 for me) and as with all geared extruders, invert the direction (#define INVERT_E0_DIR true).

My main reason for upgrading was that I'm running a Volcano with a .8mm nozzle and the stock extruder couldn't deliver that volume. I run Titan's on all my other printers so it was a natural choice for me. However yes you should see a slight improvement in quality do to the increased resolution of a geared extruder.

In order to make those changes did you install a bootloader using an arduino and then flash the latest version of the Marlin firmware with the edited code over USB?

The following guide walks through this process. Is this the path you took?


Is it possible to rotate the stepper 180 degrees and have the wiring go between the bracket and lead screw instead of over the top, or even 90 degrees and just have the wiring facing down? Just curious if there was a specific reason you went with the over the top configuration?

It's not possible with the stock Creality motor to have it 180 as it lines up with and touches the lead screw (no way to get the connector in) but it might be possible with a pancake motor (such as the one E3D sales).

As far as facing it down that would work as well, the issue there is unless you add something for wire management it's possible for the wire to rub against the leadscrew (and possibly wear it out at some point). With it the way I have it, the gap between the gantry mount and wheels kind of acts as a wire channel like this: http://imgur.com/WHsCFvp (the spacers don't rotate, only the wheels do).

I think I might modify your design slightly and put the entire assembly on top of the gantry instead of hanging from below. This would allow for pushing the stepper motor closer to the gantry as well as support the weight of the assembly better IMO, allowing for the wiring to go roughly the same way yours is now, but with the connector facing that direction.

Feel free, however the stock Titan mount will work just fine if you want to mount it on the top. The entire reason I designed this one was to mount it to the bottom, otherwise you loose the entire height of the of the Titan (~43mm) in Z height as it will hit the lead screw brace.

Yeah, after looking at it more I realized it would cause the loss of z travel. I was concerned about kinking just mounting in place of the stock extruder and going out the front, but I've been told from people that have done it that they don't have any issues. The thickness of the titan is not much thicker than the stock so the loss is negligible. I might try that way first. Still great design, and thanks for sharing.

Yea you only loose about 6mm mounting it in the stock location with the bowden facing forwards.

I however DID run into issues with it in this orientation. Whenever X was home, loading filament was a bit difficult as it would get caught up in the severe bend coming out of the Titan as well as the severe bend going into the hotend. I also had issues with it skipping when it was printing towards the X home area, but that's with a Volcano pumping massive amounts of plastic. The backpressure of the Volcano + the backpressure caused by the 2 bends in the bowden were just too much. You might not run into this though if you aren't using a Volcano with 0.6+mm nozzles.

Thanks, that image makes it obvious now. I didn't realize the bottom of the stepper motor was offset from the plate.I was thinking if the stepper was bottomed out to the plate then the connector would have the clearance it needed between the lead screw and plate.