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I believe this battery cover will work for all cable box remotes beginning with model number UR5U-8780L. My remote is model # UR5U-8780L-BHC (BHC stand for 'Bright House Cable' which was recently bought out and is now called 'Spectrum'). Time Warner Cable remotes (the Clickr-5?) begins with the same number but ends in TWNC (UR5U-8780L-TWNC) and the replacement battery covers for it that I've seen online appears to be the exact same one as mine. This makes perfect sense since they are the same model remote, just made for different cable companies (hence the different suffix on the model numbers). My battery cover shows 'B023' followed underneath it by 'OH/S 4-1', but I've also seen a few for sale on E-bay showing 'OH/S 3-1' instead. I think these are virtually identical and the difference probably indicates an older revision or manufacture date.
After we broke our remote control battery cover and had to super glue it back together multiple times, I finally had enough and decided to design a new one that I could 3D print when necessary. What kept breaking most often on the original battery cover was the weak little plastic hook at the rear, so I made that part much stronger in my design (the spring clip was also broken but was mostly holding up after a repair with rubber glue). My first two prints went well except for the spring latch, which would break too easy since it was printed vertically on my PLA printer. The solution which seemed to make the most sense was to separate the spring clip from the rest of the battery cover and print it sideways for much more strength. Because of this, you will need to glue both parts together after printing. I believe I made it possible to do this and still retain a lot of strength since I made the clip insert into a 'pocket' in the battery cover. I provided 0.10mm of tolerance on each side of the pocket, but some minor filing/trimming may be necessary to ensure a good fit between both parts and to roughen up those surfaces for better glue adhesion. When using super glue, I recommend pressing both parts firmly together while pushing down onto a hard flat surface so they are level with each other as the glue sets up. I used a small sheet of wax paper on my surface so I wouldn't glue my parts down onto my surface or get superglue everywhere. If you're not already aware, glue won't stick to wax paper and a roll of this stuff can be bought cheaply wherever you can buy aluminum foil and plastic wrap.
This battery cover fits great and seems pretty strong so far (we haven't dropped it yet so time will tell). Although it's not as 'pretty' as the original, it looks and feels good in the hand and seems a bit stronger than the original. I hope this helps other folks out there that are also looking for a replacement and have a 3D printer in the house (or a friend who does). I have a feeling this print will outlast the original battery cover. If not, no biggie... Just print a new one if/when it breaks. It only requires 2 meters of filament or less.
Version 2 (24 Apr 2017):
After using the battery cover for several days, I decided to follow up with a 2nd version. Although the first version held up nicely, I noticed some minor slop between the battery cover and the remote, so I decided to firm that up. This was due to the tolerance of the rear catch and the spring clip where they grip the main remote in the slots provided. I also decided I could do a better job with how well the battery cover matches the contour of the main remote. I'm much more satisfied with this 2nd version. I hope it helps others out as well.
I designed this using Autodesk 123D Design (the original design file is included as well as both STL's for each part). I've also included screenshots of the settings I used in my Cura slicer for both parts (see images). It's obviously not critical that your settings be the same as mine. My main concern was the spring clip. I didn't want to make it too thick and strong that it wouldn't bend easily enough, while at the same time I didn't want it too thin that it would snap. I've had good results so far with the settings I've included (YMMV). Be aware that the spring clip will need supports during printing. Also, don't be concerned about the spring clip printing on the bed at a slight tilt (3 degrees). Since it's printed sideways and both sides are slightly beveled, it must be oriented this way in order to stay flat on the print bed. This didn't appear to effect my print quality at all.