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K40 Laser Tube Mount

by pista01 Apr 19, 2017
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can anyone advise if using magnets to hold the brackets down would impact the laser tube

What prevents the clamp assembly from shifting toward the vertical supports of the frame (i.e. rear of the machine)

The side screws tighten the outer frame rails against the tube mount. It would take significant force to move at that point.

This is a really innovative design.

Just an FYI, Building this right now, it would be nice to have a clear BOM on the main page, I guess it was a little confusing to hvae one of everything printed out, then come to find that I actually need to print double of everything (for the most part). It is my fault though, TLDR...

My main reason for posting is that if anyone cares, it looks like it is pretty easy to directly swap out the #4's for M3 and #8's for M4's (55mm).

I should have everything ready by the end of the week. I'll post a make as soon as it's done :) Thanks again!

I posted my Bill of Materials as part of my build. It also used M4 and M3 instead of the SAE versions (the rest of the machine is metric, so I just continued that).

Would be great if you post your BOM.

Out of curiosity, why is the built in holder 'not good enough'?

I found that the fixed position tube mounts did not necessarily align the tube to the frame very well, making mirror alignment a challenge. Being able to adjust the tube to line up with the frame made it much easier to align the mirrors.

Plus my K40 came with a piece of newspaper between the tube and holder to shim it into alignment. I was concerned about the pressure exerted by newspaper wedge against the glass tube. Not to mention it looked bad :)

Made and installed these yesterday. Honestly it was really fussy to install without disconnecting the tube, but once they're in they work great. Thanks for your work on this.

Would it be possible to add springs under the adjuster brackets to auto-tension the tube? I suspect it would work fine, but I haven't tried it yet.

I suppose springs could be added, but that would certainly increase the fussiness of the setup. The weight of the tube, especially with water, seems to work fairly well. Thankfully there isn't a need to mess with the adjustments once set. I haven't touched mine since I installed them.

Thanks for answered, yes the old mounts worked for the new one , but as you Said ,it was a pain too hold and mount the new one.,
But when i get them there they sit . The tube is nothing you change every day , but you dont think its a good idé too Take the dremel
And make a hole for the Tube in the side and just slide it in ,and dont have too Take the brackets away next thime too change the Tube ?

Whatever makes things easier for you. Mine came with a plate covered hole. I don't expect to use it until I get a bigger tube.

I Am going too print theese brackets too my K40,

how do i mount the frames too the machine, Do i have too make a hole in the laser machine too pull the tube in and out ?

I dont see how i am going too mount the tube without too remove the brackets too get the plece too mount them , if im not stick the tube from the side ?

The new mounts should use the holes from the old mounts. I left the tube in place and replaced one mount at a time. I used paper towels under the end of the tube to keep it elevated and away from the sides and bottom of the case. The mount rotates into place around the tube. Drop the bolts in through the top of the mount and hold them with your finger while tightening the nuts from the bottom. They don't need to be really tight. This part can be a bit tricky with the limited space. The part of the mount that wraps around the tube can be loose enough to allow it to rotate and slide into the main mount piece. It needs to be loose enough to rotate and slide freely.

Hello very nice model!, this could work with a 80 mm tube. i do not know the diameter for a K40?
thank you

This mount will only work with a 50mm diameter tube.

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Fantastic Model, Thanks again for sharing it with us and the great Design.

Love your work!

Thanks. Glad it worked well for you.

Does anyone sell these, I don't have a 3d printer or access to a 3d printer?

I had someone print a pair of these out for me, since the stock K40 I bought had non-adjustable clamps for the tube. Fit was great, and about the only thing I had to do was to drill out the tube clamp itself a tiny bit, as the #8 heads/nuts did not fit in the holes. Thanks so much for posting these up, as nothing else i have found actually fits in the K40 laser tube bay.

I printed one of these, and so far the only mystery I'm trying to solve is how you actually managed to thread the nuts onto the bolts of the tube clamp itself. There's no room on the clamp for the nut to spin. So did you somehow hold the nut over the hole and thread the bolt into it? In any case, I've found it pretty tough to accomplish this without putting stress on the tube. I'd love any pointers you might have.

I just held the nut with a pair of needle nose pliers. I originally intended to use the embedded nuts that are melted into the plastic, but never got around to buying them. The holes in the larger clamps are sized for them. The nuts seemed to go on ok with the pliers. No, the nuts don't spin. They just kind of sit there where they started. You don't want to tighten the screw very much anyway. You want the screws to be loose enough to easily rotate the clamp on the tube. There's enough tension on the screws and nuts to keep them from coming loose on their own.

I'm open to suggestions on making it easier to mount, without loosing much movement for adjustments. There's always a trade-off.

Hmm... maybe add an indentation on the clamp to help keep the nut in place? If I can just hold the nut stable with one hand while turning the bolt with the other, it'd probably be MUCH easier. thoughts?

A #4 nut is 1/4" (6.35mm) across while a 3mm nut is 5.5mm across. A 3mm nut would probably spin in the pocket and make it almost impossible to get a hold of it. There's enough room to make the flange larger. I'll probably do that and replace the two holes with a singe hole. That should make it easier to hold the nut since it will be in the middle of the clamp and not so close to the center axis. I don't think there needs to have two screws on each end of the clamp.

Ahh that would fix it I think. I'd be more than happy to print a new set and test your revision. :)

Looks like a very nice design!

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