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I have a problem to slice the "X Carriage" . My S3D cannot compute the infill. Any problems with the STL known?
Try changing the thin wall behavior it does not like the "single extrusion walls/infill" :)
Counter question: What prices can be expected for those machines?
I am thinking about building one ;)
None I know. I sliced all the parts with Cura.
A question that I do not understand in description says that the volume of impression is 300x300x300.
but according to the set assembly is 214x214, am I doing something wrong?
Thanks for the help
The printer can be built using the Mk2 heatbed which is 214 x 214 which has a usable build area 200 x 200, or the Mk2A which is 328 x 328 which has a useable area of 300 x 300.
That Z platform must be wobbly AF of that video, kind of a no brainer to predict that problem before you actually built the machine :)
Hi, when printing the extruder mount, I am assuming you need supports given the detail on the back and there appears to be a slot for running wires (although this maybe could be bridged without supports??). I am hoping to avoid printing the whole model and then finding out I can't get the supports off cleanly, etc. and starting over.
Any suggestions on how this is best printed. I am going to be using ABS so I am expecting some challenges with warping as I don't use this often so suggestions to cut down on the trial and error would be greatly appreciated. One thought I had is to split the mount and the backplate and reassemble them with screws and knurled inserts (M4). This way I can print the backplate front side down and the mount facing upward.
Again, thoughts would be appreciated.
Yes. At the time I printed the mount, Cura did not support custom supports; it only supported support blockers. I needed to turn on supports everywhere and then block supports for all blind holes and the wire tunnel for the endstop. That basically left generated supports for the endstop mounts and the cooling fan tunnel. Now with CURA, you should be able to keep Generate Supports off and apply custom supports to those areas. Other than that, I printed in PETG with a brim to prevent any warping. With ABS you will probably need to do the same with the addition of a heated enclosure of some sort. When I printed ABS parts on my Kossel Delta I tented it with a garbage bag. The temperature under the bag reached 104 degrees F. and allowed me to print without warping.
My delta has a bottom enclosure that lowers the electronics away from the heated bed and includes drawing outside air for cooling. The tent did not cover the PWS or the cooling air intake or exhaust ports. The heat did cause the PTFE tube in the hot end to cook and I had to replace it; but it lasted long enough to print my parts.
Thanks for the reply, this is helpful. I wasn't even thinking of the cooling fan tunnel, FYI, in PLA anyway, I have had some luck with tree supports ... definitely easier to remove. Not sure if they will work here.
Any chance someone could modify the inventor files for 4040 frame extrusion and 16mm rails with lm16uu bearings?
Im wanted to know what measures I need for the frame to make a mini hypercube of 10x10x10
Hi, is there an issue with the upper z axis linear rod mounts where the bolt hole for the 5mm mounting bolt on the top of the part does not go all the way through?
It is designed to be that way. There is a thin support layer to support the hole for the screw. You'll need to cut it out with a drill or x-acto knife
Got it, I think I see why now. That side prints down and there is a recess for the screw so the layer is essentially a bridge across so it prints. Makes sense thanks for the reply.
You're welcome. Enjoy the build.
hello, I am looking for guidance on how to print the z-axis bearing holder without support material? Is it possible? has anyone done this successfully?
The best I was able to do was support set to "Touching Buildplate." Support wasn't necessary for vertical screw holes or the bearing holder.
If you want a cleaner surface where the support is located you could try "enable support roof," but I would increase the Z support distance to about .18mm if you're printing in PETG or ABS. Roofs can get difficult to remove.
The 20mm slots for the extrusions are small enough to be bridged without supports. If the part wasn't going to hold the alignment of a bearing I might have tried it, but I decided against it.
Hi, just to add, I was having he same concern on the Z bearing holders. I tried enabling bridge settings, using normal supports, using tree supports, no supports, etc. The one that worked the best was "Enable Support Interface" which adds a roof and floor. I used all default settings including the "Z Support Distance" of 0.1 (I did try 0.2 but had worse results). If you use pliers like needle nose to try and grab one of the ends right where the support is closest to the edge of the model and peel backward almost if you are oping a sardine can, you can "roll" the supports off with a nice (clean as you could hope for) remaining surface.
I started on one corner of the edge of the support and tried to separate it a little, then the middle then the corner on the other side. Once the edge was separated a little I pulled/rolled the support off. Worked really well.
That worked great, Thanks!!
You're Welcome. Good luck on the build.
Setting support to "Touching Buildplate" makes a lot of sense, I will give it a try.
Anyone know of any good guides on how to configure Marlin for the Hypercube Evolution? This is my first time doing a custom firmware and not just uploading a stock one. Also will be installing a BLtouch at the same time so a guide for that as well for the Hevo? heh thanks!
might be worth looking in the facebook group files section or asking int he group if you dont find here
What is a final cost of this project ?
300x300x300, Mega 2560, RAMPS 1.4, Clone V6 and Clone Titan Extruder from China $530. About $50 of filament (PETG, ABS, PLA) About $200 additional parts and upgrades.
$1,000,000.00 . Joking aside, by my memory it'll be a minimum of about $500 for a barebone system ( Standard size, Mega 2560 controller, most parts from China, etc). Then it goes up from there....
Beautiful design and I can tell you spent a lot of time on making this available for all of us, and you were meticulous with the Excel file as well. The URL you have linked in the Excel sheet for the "Mk2A 300x300" is no longer working, FYI (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/For-RepRap-3D-Prusa-Mendel-Printer-MK2A-300-300-3-0mm-Heater-Bed-RAMPS-1-4/32668984871.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.eQ0JK4).
Hi, for the 300x300x300 build volume with double Z, wich type of extrusions is good what is works with cheap aliexpress nuts and etx?
There is 2 different types for each:
and for 20x20:
Which ones should I choose?
Hi, for the Mk2 headbed the only option is to use the 15mm bed bracket. The Y extrusion cannot be less than 140mm for the printed parts to fit.
Hi, I think I found an issue in the calculator : if you select mk2 heatbed, Bed frame Y extrusion stays to 140mm no matter what bracket you select (for 300300300 build volume). I think that for 30mm bracket, it should be 110.
issue is in sheet1!C15 I think ?
Maybe it has been asked, but I'd rather not look through all 1400 comments. I am just looking to upgrade the frame on my i3 clone to the Hypercube style. the build plate I have is 220x220 and I want to reuse as much as possible. I also have a delta that I have has nothing but trouble with that is all 2020 extrusion I planned on making a new frame for the i3 with that until I saw the Hypercube style. Can I make this design and sub in 2020 for the 3030 or do I need to get 3030 to make it work properly? I would go with the Tech2C desing, but the build volume on his is lower than i want.
There's a 2020 remix. Check the comments for instructions.
Thanks. Turns out I am too poor for this type of coversion right now. Just going to go with some 2020 and convert from acrylic to that. Keep it Cartesian style for now.
for all the dual z axes builders check this upgrade https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3232943
So, is there a way of knowing which bed bracket to print for a 300x300mm heated bed? Or is the offset specific to the heated bed I have?
I built the 300x300mm heated bed version. I printed and used "Bed_Bracket_15_1.0.stl" Unfortunately, I don't remember how I chose that file, but it fit my bed.
Lol, I'll just print that one then, worst case scenario I can print different ones when all the parts get here
Where are the sizes?
beautiful, great job! what's the bed size on this one?
I am very interested in building this printer, but at the same time also looking at the Vulcanus Max 40 (instructables). Big build volume combined with speed and good quality outcome is what we all want (at least I do). Hypercube or Vulcanus?
high speed is not something you will ever hear in these style printers. :)
Maybe someone here can help, there is a useful full-color 3D rendering of the fully built Hypercube Evolution that you can spin and zoom in and out to see how things are attached but I can't figure out where I found it. Anyone have a link?
you can find it on thingiverse or look on the facebook group forum.
I'm not sure if you are referring to the HyperCube_Evolution_v1.0.rar file that Scott_3D supplied. I used WinZip to unpack it and Fusion 360 (Hobbiest license) to view it. It was extremely helpful during the build and for revising parts for my build. If there is something else out there I'm unaware of it.
Good luck on the build. It's a great printer.
Thanks, the one I saw was web-based but this will certainly do the trick! And it turns out it was Fusion 360's MyHub online where I had the model, as soon as I started typing Hypercube Evolution Fusion 360 the link I was looking for showed up!
I am chinese，I do this ，just $172 ，I have never been proud of my country, except this time.
Very nice !
Scott, thank you for the design and files. Would it be possible to rename some of the files to make it more clear as to which file I need? Could you remove the outdated files (Z rod bracket without slot).
Anyone knows if there is a remix of Scott_3D's X carriage that would fit Tech2c's hypercube? I like the design better.
Okay, after i checked the 3D-Files i have a question remaining:
How does it check the position of the build platform when homing? I see no Z-Endstops
It uses the Z-Probe to sense the build platform when homing. Be aware that the inductive sensor that is spec'ed out in the HEVO BOM is a 4mm sensor. But since the build platform is nonferrous it won't detect until about 1.5mm. I upgraded to a BLTouch to solve that issue.
Good luck and enjoy the build.
Ah okay, seems like I was to blind to figure that out myself XD
Also took me a while to realize it.
BTW: I purchased endstops to install a Z-Max on both motors. Then I found they weren't necessary either. To sync the Z motors I just disable software endstops and then run both motors 2 mm lower than they can go. It might not be elegant but it's easy and works.
Thank you for sharing CAD files ! Great work you have done.
About how much does it cost total?
Bought a (300x300x300) kit for $530 from AliExpress. Purchases for additional required parts and upgrades totaled about $400. My printer is fully operational but I'm planning on some future additional upgrades. My printer collection includes a Kossel Delta Plus, TAZ 6, and now the HEVO. The HEVO is my go to printer for the majority of my printing.
Depends on the size you build, but we paid $460 for a basic HEVO 400x400x400 kit minus the printed parts on AliExpress. Once you upgrade some of the cheap components and anything that arrives broken you're probably around $800-1000 for the 400x400x400 but you'll have a great machine at that price.
I'm going to build Hypercube, but i have only one question hassling me: why don't you use linear rails like mgn12? Pure costs reasons or maybe any technical issues?
I would love to build Hypercube (Evo). But can i please advise?
I know i want "only" 200x200x155 print dimensions. I would love to use that printer for quicker prints with small detail (in the best with 0.8mm nozzle with around 0.4mm layer height) and higher speeds. I was thinking, is hypercube (tech2c) or hypercube evo (scotts one) better printer for my needs? :/ Thank you very much
If better will be hypercube evo, should i use 2020 aluminium profiles or 3030?
The Hypercube Evolution will be the more ridgid printer with it's thicker rods and frame but is also more expensive. The Evolution is only available with a 3030 frame (and 2020 for the bed).
Thank you very much for your respond Biberbuilder. I read somewhere, that for smaller bed sizes its better to go with hypercube. I think, hypercube will be around 100usd cheaper. I am not milionare, but to be honest i think, 100 usd is not much for printer like this. So i probably will go into the Hypercube evo. Thank you one more time
It seems pointless to invest so much time and money into a design, but then scale it down. For the size you're after, maybe an Ender3 is what you need? They print fairly well out of the box and only costs about $200.
Noob question : this aluminium is in the right format ?https://www.amazon.fr/Profil-aluminium-20-Longueurs-standard/dp/B075CLXHZP/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539930977&sr=8-1&keywords=20x20+aluminium+profile
(same for 30x30)
I hope that’s right, that’s what I just got delivered!!
The retainer screw holes dont go all of the way through.
The included configuration.h file shows the Z-Probe X offset to be 30 mm. However, when I look at the designs in Fusion 360, the center to center distance between the extruder and the sensor shows as 21.5 mm. I've included a screen cap of what I see in Fusion 360
Can anyone confirm if the offset is 30mm or 21.5mm?
Thanks a bunch!
I bought 10mm X shafts to use LM10UU with the X carriage.
In the thing details there is the following note: "Note - current X carriage only suits LM8UU bearings. An adaptor will be needed to use 10mm bushings"
Does anyone knows where I can find the adaptor mentioned in the note above? or
Does anyone have the X carriage modified to use LM10UU bearings?.
Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!
Hi all. I am wondering if anyone can clear up the confusion I am having with the excel configurator. The part that configures the extrusion measurements seems to work fine. But nothing else seems to change or do anything. The entire right side is stagnant. I'm confused about the bracket area as well. It just lists a bunch of stuff without telling you what it is or how to choose the right one. The instructions in the upper left simply say to add your custom measurements. Also, what is the difference between the measurements you manually enter on the left versus those on the right? Posted this query to the FB group and only got a response from 1 person, who wasn't sure either.
There are 3 steps how you define the printer dimensions. First define your heat bed. There are already 3 definitions on the right side (MK2, MK2a and custom) and you can also define your own custom data in the free lines between MK2A and custom. Or simply edit the line custom to your needs. After this is done select on the left side under build platform the previously defined heat bed (click in the field and select your choice - your selection was custom, 300x300). The custom build volume define the travel of your extruder nozzle in x, y, z (you data 400x400x500). In this combination it means, that your nozzle is able to travel wider as your heat bed dimensions are (300x300 vs 400x400). This sometimes make sense, e.g. if you need a place to flush a nozzle.
There are different combinations of bed bracket dimensions possible depending on the size of your heat bed and the heat bed platform frame. You can choose one of the predefined bracket versions as long as the line below says "Bracket selection Ok". You need to chose a smaller one in case it shows "Bracket selection not Ok" because this means that there is something wrong with your dimensions for heat bed, heat bed frame and possible bracket mounting holes. The offset is defined by the overlapping heat bed mounting holes and the heat bed frame (see picture on the lower right side).
Hope this will help you.
Thank you so much for getting back to me and providing that information. So, I input updated bed information. I just had to guess because I don't actually have any parts yet and sourcing a 400x400 aluminum heat bed is proving a little difficult. I can find plenty of 400x400 heaters but not the built plates they are intended to heat. :P As for the spreadsheet, I included a picture of the updated information and it appears to be OK. One thing I noticed is, with the previous, smaller build plate information and with the updated information, it doesn't matter what bed bracket i choose, it always says "OK". So I can use any bracket, regardless of build plate volume? That doesn't seem right. Or, maybe I just guessed really well and the proportions are the same. :)
E.g. choose Mk2 Heat Bed with Bed_bracket_20 :)
Hello! I cannot understand. Is the distance between rods in X axis the same as in original HyperCube? I think of builing evo but using all the tool heads from original HyperCube.
привет ! ты можешь оставить их такими либо же изменить
Я могу много чего. Вопрос в том, как оно в моделях "по-умолчанию".
Anyone know if there is a version that uses v-slot extrusions as rails? im planing a printvolume of 500x500x1000 and would like to use the frame instead of rods.
Does anyone know if there is a version that only uses the 3030 extrusion i ask cause i have enough left over for the z-axis but the Z bearing holder prints for the 2020 extrusion and dopey me forgot to get the 2020
Hello, in the excel sheet when I go to select the Print Plate and the Bed Bracke, in the box below I always have Err: 509
Just wanted to know if the parts for the printer were printed in abs or pla?
People have printed these parts with both ABS or PLA. If you have a choice use ABS but either will be ok. I myself used PLA to start with then I will be switching to ABS once I have a better hot end.
first of all thank you for the great work!
could you please provide a bed_bracket_12,5mm? I'm still relatively new to inventor and can't find out how to change that.
(the mounting holes on my Mk3a heatbed are not 325mm but 320mm apart)
never mind i figured it out
Is there like a build instruction manual? Like which part goes where, especially with the electronics, engines and extruder?
How many parts of everything am I supposed to print? As you can guess I'm a total newbie.
Has anyone attempted to make a cubic metre build? As 10 1000x1000x1000 mm print volume?
What I have found is to just build it all in CAD to visualize the whole build. On the other head, it is very straightforwad except for the bed frame and the extrusion for the dual Z rods. By building it in CAD, you can get exact dimensions. I am just about done with my model. If you would like a copy, send me an email at T4DJohn on gmail, and let me know the 3D format you want. I am building a 410x410x800mm build volume with 8mm X, 10mm Y, 12mm Z.
There are multiple construction series on Youtube, including one official. For parts and calculations have a look at the excel sheet.
Somewhere here you can find a link to a full HEVO on Fusion360 online. Use it to take measurements and to have a closer look where parts are used, extrusions are connected, etc... ;)
I already found some links which gave me a bit more info, and I did look at the excellsheet and the pictures, It's just that a nr of every part would come in handy. Thanks for the info, friend, I hope to start soon, already printing some parts
The L type brackets on https://www.aliexpress.com/item/T-slot-L-type-90-degree-EU-standard-3030-aluminum-profile-Inside-corner-connector-bracket-with/32772827830.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.vwn135
Type A, B or C (most likely not C - but is it then A or B) ?
Great question! I also bought in that store, and also thought for a long time which type to order. And then I measured the width of the slot on the profile I ordered - and everything immediately became absolutely clear. I have a slot width of 8mm => I bought a "Type A".
"Type B" = 5mm, "Type C" = 6мм. See the drawing in the product description...
I see in the build it takes 30x30 extrusions. However a year or so ago didn't you have 20x20? reason I ask. I bought 20x20 extrusions about a year ago, didn't do anything with them as I got sidetracked and would now like to start the build again. How would i go about using 20x20 instead of 3030? how would i calculate the differences?
The original Hypercube (not Evolution) uses 2020 extrusions and also the Hypercube 300. Maybe you meant that?
youre right... i am dumb... weeeelll now i have extra 2020! ill build a laser engraver out of it
IIRC there are remixes for the HEVO on 2020 too, or Hypercube remixes with HEVO parts
what is the reason for GT2 Idler Pulley's without teeth on x axis assembly
Because "the back" of the belt runs thru those.
hello I ask you a question, the brass inserts that are used in this design what measures are?
M3x5x5. See the BOM (section "Fasteners") on the main page ("Thing Details") of this project. There is a size and there is a link to the store. You can search on that page for the text "Brass knurled insert" to make it faster.
I bought in another store, a month ago. 100 pieces cost $1.99 with free shipping (to Russia). But you have to be careful and choose among the options for sizes in the options is the size of "m3x5x5".https://ru.aliexpress.com/item/High-quality-100pcs-lot-Brass-insert-M2-M2-5-M3-Through-thread-brass-insert-nut-knurled/32866024804.html?spm=a2g0s.9042318.104.22.168a8133edqWRzXp
Hello, I have the links, updated to buy the Pulleys and Belts! tks
Hi Scott, Wondering if I can scale your parts for 4040 extrusions? Thanks.
WOAH! Ha,ha... Jesus! What kind of beast are you trying to build!? Seriously though, you have quite the job ahead of you if you plan on scaling these parts. Remember to check your hole sizes and such. Certain things will certainly need to be left the size they are.
Good luck :)
On the corner idler pulley brackets is anyone using spacers to space the pulleys apart from one another?
it seems to be x carriage for LM10UU is missing... anyone a idea?
I don't believe it is missing, I believe Scott never created it.
Here is a link to one another user created. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2110447
I also just noticed this... I'd also like to know where to find a 10mm X carriage.
I was having a problem with Cura not placing supports under two vertical holes in the (Z_Axis_Bearing_Holder_1.0.stl).
The lack of support was causing the first couple of layers of those holes from fusing together.
For anyone experiencing this issue I have modified the part by placing a .2mm fill in the very bottom of the holes which can easily be removed or punched through.
There are pretty active Facebook groups
If you didn't already figure this out, you can use a made up name to create a facebook. One does what one must to get at the information that one seeks. I'll tell you flat out that the Hypercube Evolution group on facebook is quite active, so if you'd like to chat it up with all of those people ...
@ beazleyhub, das ist nicht ganz richtig. ich selbst habe mehrere ac auf face. ohne ein prob. auch haben viele freunde alias-ac´s. auch bei denen ist es kein problem. hab ein wunderschönen sonntag. bb lg lars
@TheThor696 No you can't, you need to read... https://www.facebook.com/help/112146705538576
Also if you are going to post in an English forum please use English.
For the heated beds the only thing that matters for configuration is the total size and the screwhole distance.
I have no experience with PLA parts but I think they will work fine for at least some time (could be tricky with the printhead parts). But why are you limited to PLA? In my experience PETG only needs a little higher bed temperature than PLA to print reliably.
My Tarantula parts are in PLA, and I was also intending to print a HEVO in PLA. PETG doesn't print as quick as PLA, plus requires hotter temps.I won't know for many months if the PLA will be a bad decision, but I don't think it will fail.
Can anybody tell me what filament that is? I really like the look of it
I'm pretty sure it's PETG.
What about the color?
Try here. https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/yellow-mh-build-series-petg-filament-175mm-1kg/sk/M8FEQLY5?rcode=GAT9HR&gclid=CjwKCAjw4uXaBRAcEiwAuAUz8ONfI2sX-UzD7SZtrcGJ8eSvssq3Ro0R9mDkRn6KRSOV2LLmGjeDtRoCmigQAvD_BwE
Hello All, Can anyone please share the configuration file for Hypercube Evolution with 500x500x500mm build volume and Dual Z axis. I have completed the assembly of my HEVO, waiting to connect the RAMPS board to it. I have used 20T pulley, DRV 8225 motor drive. Please support to complete my project.
How much did it cost you to build that 500?
why am i getting this error?
fastio.h:56: error: #error "Pins for this chip not defined in Arduino.h! If you have a working pins definition, please contribute!"
What parts change if a 400mmx400mmx400mm build volume is desired?
nothing really. use the excel file to get the correct measurements and printed pieces.
Brass insert always came off from Y_Carriage while fastening clamp part
get a no brass version.
Where can I find the hypercube evolution for 220x220 heated bed as he said in the video he's making a smaller one? Thanks
Will you be willing to share the source file for the Extruder_Mount_1.0.stl. I have the Ev3d V2 hot end with the prostruder upgrade. The block for the his heater is wider and is sitting inside the fan duct. I would like to add about 5mm between the fan duct and the hot end.
Hi. I've got a question. Is there any way to change diameters of holes meant for brass inserts? I found some inserts, in my opinion better than those from Aliexpress but their outer diameter is 4.4mm and they won't melt in properly. Can i do this on my own somehow? Sorry im quite new in digital design thats why im asking.
tinkercad or find no insert version
I'm curious what brand is the filament in the pictures I've been looking for a yellow that shade.
I wanna know this too :) Looks really awesome!
The file Y_Carriage_Clamp_LM8UU_1.0.stl has a wrong diameter with the recessed hole where the 8mm rod sits on. The hole diameter is 10mm and for 10mm rod.
Scott D, are you still updating this files or is this an abandoned project? Thanks!
C'est un excellent projet , une belle conception. merci pour cette description.
Voici mon imprimante hypercube en cours de montage.
After having built several hypercubes in various variants I decided to build the EVO version.
I would like to build it with IGUS on both X and Y. Or is there a better bent?
What do you recommend?
Going on Y with steel and LM10LUU and Carbon and 10 bits on X?
I am a bit puzzled and I would like some tips and maybe you can help me choose the most suitable STL to start printing
Let's not forget that the size I want to make 300x300 and try varinat with dual leadcrew and a single stepper motor
Does anyone have a rough cost estimate for making this? Canadian please
I ordered the BOM for the 300x300x400 HEVo from Component Explorers Store on AliExpress.
All prices I mention will be in CDN dollars
When I ordered it, it was $739 or so, with free shipping. Today it's $727.11 + 27.38 shipping.
The seller guarantees 30 day delivery. I ordered mine on April 10. It was shipped on April 14, and Fedex delivered it to my door on April 18.
Here's something to consider if you are getting a BOM from China.
I investigated the possibility of ordering it without the extrusions, since they are the heaviest parts. I could have ordered it without the extrusions for a saving of $111. Sounded good, so I checked with Misumi (in the US). They could supply all the extrusions for about $175. Checked with an 8020 dealer in Vancouver, and that came in at over $200. So I ordered the BOM with the extrusions included.
Well, turns out that it cost me more in the long run. I assembled the frame, then noticed that it was decidedly unsquare. Pulled it apart and checked the lengths and squareness of the cuts. They were not all the same length, and some were not squarely cut.
Took them to a machine shop and had them milled square and to length. I was not impressed by the price of having that done. I did not get a quote in advance, and I ended up paying $160 to have them fixed.
If I ever do this again, I'll get the extrusions from Misumi. They laser-cut them, so they'll be bang on.
checkout makerparts.ca they are in canada and sell alot of parts.
It's hard to estimate since it depends on what you choose as components... But a good estimate would be Lin's BOM on Aliexpress: it contains everything you need to complete this project (except the printed parts of course), and it cost around 730CA$.
But after that, if you decide to upgrade some parts like I did (you can customize the said BOM), it can easily cost much more... Mine is around 1200CA$ and still counting as I am not fully decided on the extruder itseft.
Awesome thank you
Please could I ask you to have a look at the Configurator file for me - it opens with some cell errors in 'Sheet 1' and '###' in 'Configuration'. The '###' values propagate further if I select Dual Z axis.
Any assistance would be appreciated,
:: Update ::
The Configurator file works fine, but as an 'xlsx' file seems incompatible with OpenOffice or GoogleSheets. On Windows 10, I opened the file using the XLS Edit app from the AppStore.
Edit: Sorry, didn't see your reply Warham - yes, I predominantly use OpenOffice so when I realised that it might be a syntax/translation error, I tried to find a native Excel reader/editing solution.
are you using open office or something other than MS excel?
What is the best amount of perimeters and layers for Z_Axis_Bearing_Holder? I'm having problems with the diameter and alignment of bearings.
Is there a model anywhere that includes all parts (basically the full machine like in the render)?
haveing issues opening the rar file dont know whats going on
Hi, where i can find print setup for the pieces? Surely to print in PetG...
You have to enter your build details into the configuration Excel file and it should detail which printed parts you need. Still trying to figure out exactly which pieces we need for Lin's 400x400x400 BOM, the Excel sheet didn't give me any bed parts to print.
We've got a Hypercube Evo 400x400x400 BOM coming from Lin and are working on getting the parts printed in eSun green PETG, however we're running into a lot of areas where support is required but will be very difficult to remove. For parts like the duct or the X-carriage did you use support in the holes then drill or cut it out or did you try to bridge the small holes instead of using support?
supports should not be needed.
Happy to say I am building one of these. Dual Z axis and all.
I really value the FULL 3D model you provided. It helps a lot during the assembly.
I converted to Fusion 360 and it most of it converted perfectly.
I did run into one item so far... seems the full 3D model still has the "Z Axis Liner Rail Bracket Assembly - Tall - Right" and Left as the version 1.0.
Puts the holding screw such that it does not hit the channel in the 3030 extrusion. I see you caught it and have the 1.1 version available separately.
So anyone building one of these should be aware that the full 3D model is not as current as some of the files.
thanks for sharing this thing
about extrusion, can I use all profile size with 3030? so no need to combine with 2020 extrusion
You would have to re-model several of the components to make that swap work.
The 3030 is heavier and will not really improve the functionality. The platform is plenty ridged from what I am seeing.
Another error: You list only 8 corner brackets, but the dual z-axis assembly requires 12...according to your video. Please update your BOM
It depends on how you build your Hypercube Evolution. E.g. I use 8 3030 corner brackets and 20 L-Type brackets. Others use other combinations. The original CAD model shows how it works with 8 brackets
You don't mention in you BOM that you need 20 l-brackets for the dual Z-axis version. It only has 16 listed. So, I ordered 16 and have only 16. Now what?
Need to order 4 more and pay a crap load in shipping.
Please update you BOM.
You could be nicer, figuring he designed this for free and is sharing it. Be respectful.
I start to order things now to the Evolution but the downloaded excel calculator shows some error 509 ?
I use Open Offices. Any solution ?.
Is it possible to use the E3D 48mm motors?
Would be very nice!
there is some bug in Z axis holder
distance between hole and edge is 10mm (must be 15mm) and hole is not solid
I found that problem too... and saw it was already solved. there is a 1.1 release of the bracket.https://www.thingiverse.com/download:3673856
Hi all, I've been collecting parts for my build with a 300 x 300 bed and Z build height of 400. I want to utilise some rods I already had 4 x 13mm for the Z with standard lm8uu bearings with housings and 2 x 12mm for the Y with bronze bushes. I plan to go with 8mm and bushes for the X. My question is has anybody else used these particular rod sizes for Y and Z with already modified Stl's to suit? I'm unable to modify these drawings myself.
Out of curiosity what is the estimated cost to build one of these?
More than most people probably want to admit. The standard size probably runs around $500 with no customization and a standard ramps 1.4 board. Add another $100 if you want an plexi glass enclosure. Add $50 for another 10cm in Z-axis....
If you want to see some really nice custom builds check out the Hypercube Evo FB page before you start building.
I am having some similar questions regarding the bed size and offsets.
I'm going to be building the dual Z, and am getting a 400mm x 400mm bed heater. And a cast aluminum bed. My questions are:
I can see where I can put the dimensions in for the build plate. But it's not making sense to me.
If my heater is 400mm x 400mm (OK, maybe 420mm, I'll measure it when it comes in next week). Wouldn't the mounting holes be greater than 400 x 400? Otherwise, I'd be putting holes in the heater itself. Am I missing something?
With respect to the bed bracket offset, how am I to choose this? Is this where you add the additional 15mm to 45mm to the build plate size to accommodate the screws? What is the purpose of the difference offset sizes?
Yeah you have to put the holes for example at 425x425 with a bigger plate like 450x450.
By the Bed Brackets take the longest. The 45mm Version.
hi when can you upload new video
Hey guys, whats the recommended added size for having electronics at the bottom?
Also a size 25 bracket will be ok for a 300*300 heated bed? or should I go higher?
In case I intend to assemble a HEVO 300^3, dual Z, which is the distance between the bottom of the Z extrusions and the bottom of the XY ones? And at which height should I place the "third" extrusion along Y?
Thank you in advance!
Im going to upgrade my Hypercube with some parts and as i was looking at banggood i found that you now can get igus like Polymer Linear Bearing at Banggood:
Can someone tell me This what needs to be modified to run the adruino with 24V system
Suppose you want to run a ramps with an arduino.
It depends if you want to run everything on 24 volts or only the bed.
I had changed everything to 24 volts..
Hotend 24 volts
Fans 24 volts
Bed 24 volts
Ramps controller unsolder one of the automatic fuses ( it says 16 volts on it) the other one is OK
Replace by another automotiv fuse.. (search on youtube)
Remove the diode that powers the arduino
5 volts stepdown convertor to power the arduino
Thats it It is wise to control the board via an external MOSFET board.
Can someone please provide me with the list of parts I need to the printer for dual z-axis version with the quantity. I am very confused with the excel sheet
I just opened the file the very first time and it seems to very clear what to do...
On Configurations Tab you have Selectors (Click on the Cell next to the "Select" Field to open the Dropdown) where you enter your Build Volume, the Type of Heatbed you want and if you want to have Single or Double Z-Axis. After that you find the extrusion Length for the profiles underneath the configurator and all other parts on the third Tab.
Thanks, i understand now. Problem is solved now.
Sooo...I read that its better to take the biggest Bed Brackets possible. But i dont really get the limit there. Why isnt everyone using 45mm then? 45mm Brackets do work with a 300*300mm bed, right?! Or is it advised to take smaller ones?
45 wont get you any play +/- in case you need to adjust. if you plan on around 35 ish then you have some room to play with brackets.
Where is the stl file for the belt adjustment 'nubs'?
Does anyone know where I can buy the extrusions in black in Europe? Preferably Germany or Scandinavia.
Why a 24V power supply instead of a 12V? And how do I modify the ramps board so that the 24V doesnt kill the mega?
Go with the MKS v1.5, uses 24v out the box and saves the moding needed on the ramps board. if you can stretch to it go for a 16 or 32 bit board instead.
24v heated beds are much "fast" to reach final temp. Also, 12v applied to a 300x300 bed would take forever and the max temp it can reach would be around 75 degrees.
Check YouTube, Scott has made a video for ramps conversion. Also, you could use a buck converter, that's what I did.
stumbled on this aliexpress store. They have most of the components but have terrible shipping prices to the US.
The excel sheet you can find under Thing Files or just download all files!
Where are the Excel for the length of the extrusions?
Or do one of you know how long the 3030 are for the original 300x300x300 ?
See comment above
Y_carriage_clamp_LM10uu_diam8mm where is it ??
help me pls.
I have an Idea for the extruder but im not sure if its easy to implement.
Can there be a third Belt that will drive the extruder? It would need some software changes to move slightly faster than the printhead but it is doable, when im right.
This would eliminate the need for a bowden extruder but still keep the printhead lightweight.
Someone out there who want to try it? Or any thoughts on such a system?
for a long Y axis (~550mm), are 10mm steel rods enough ?
I am on my way to build one Hypercube double Bed Steppers with a prototype of 5 in and 1 out mixing Extruder.
Does anybody know how to steer 9 Steppers at once? Five for the Extruder and four for the Printer moovement.
Which Mainboard you guys recommend to me?
Duet wifi https://www.duet3d.com/DuetWifi
A rumba board has 6 steppers may be you can ad this https://www.reprap.me/stepper-expander-x3.html you have 9!
https://forum.e3d-online.com/threads/adding-a-fourth-extruder-to-the-rumba.1892/ more info
https://reprapworld.com/products/electronics/ultratronics/ultratronics_pro_v1_0/ an other board with standard 4 extruders.
info about smoothie board and multiple extruders http://smoothieware.org/multiple-extruders
So and now go figure it out and report back when it works ;-)
Does anyone know if the printed parts have some tolerance already? or I'll need to add them myself?
no need to add tolerances, print them with a minimal of 5 perimeters to make them strong!
I just built one with PLA. Since other sources recommend PET-G or ABS, so I would think that these are to spec since I've never read anything about changing the tolerances. Join and ask the FB group and ask your question for more feedback.
Hello. Can I use these parts with 2020 aluminium extruded frame without modification?
these parts are for 3030 in the remixes section there are 2020 parts
Yup, that is exactly what I created this for.
Thanks a lot!
when the X carriage is pushed to the end of the Y rods... towards both the ends it faces some resistance and gets pushed back to the center... this is when trying to do it manually... is this ok??
hey, will start to build the hypercube evolution soon,
wouldn't be 2 LM8LUU better instead of 4 LM8UU for the X carriage?
idk, I think the resuld would be the same
Does anyone have the part files in Solidworks format ( .sldprt )?
You can find them on the Facebook Group for the Evo.
HI what is the overall size of the printer once complete with a build area of 300x300.
Going by the build lengths...
X is about 420 mm (width)
Y is about 410 mm (depth)
Z is about 500 mm (height)
Hi to everyone that is interested in building this printer.
Scott has done a great job on this project
Just to help this community happy I am posting a link from the same seller that Scott is giving the list of the parts that he gets them from.https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Extra-Fee-for-3D-Printer/32815806270.html?spm=2114.12010108.1000013.1.6ba437efreVYkx&traffic_analysisId=recommend_2088_1_90158_shotall&scm=1007.13339.90158.0&pvid=99727802-68f2-495a-ad72-f5abd39cd089&tpp=1
The seller has shipped two kits to the UK by accident and I am trying to help him find a customer for that order so that it doesn't have to be shipped back.
You can also find my eBay listing with a special offer price for these two kits!!https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142646487055
or you can look up the sellers listing on aliexpresshttps://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/2-kits-of-BOM-for-HyperCube-Evolution-Dual-Z-Axises-Black-300-300-300-Free-shipping/2062033_32849943401.html?spm=2114.12010622.214.171.124d70ce126xBBCP
I made the 3d printer but I did not have the software installed I could mail the documents and the software installation steps email@example.com
the V6 extruder does not fit tight in the bracket and hence moves in circular pattern. anyone else faced this issue?
I have the same problem. The V6 fit snuggly into the Extruder Mount but the Retainer does not push on it so it's loose and can wiggle and turn when assembled.
Building a Hypercube Evolution for myself i have ended up becoming a distributor and stocking huge inventory for Aluminum profiles (2020/3030/4040) :-)
I can now ship 2020 or 3030 anodized aluminum profiles (struts) cut in any size (as per your requirements) along with all the inner L brackets and corner brackets with fasteners as an entire ready to assemble kit.
Shipping is available around the world.
The printer frame i am building is X=470mm, Y=500mm, Z=600mm. Massive i suppose :-)
actually my frame is as follows :
and i now want to use the 214x214 bed... .so wondering what bracket to use....
I'm looking to start a kit; how much would it be to the UK for a 300mm^3?
hello. thank you for the enquiry. :-)
is that the frame size or the print size?
if you want achieve a print size in X by Y by Z in millimeters pls. share that so i can calculate and send you the frame size accordingly.... and then i will follow it up with the commercials.
awaiting reply :-)
Here you find some bed brackets that are variable if those not fit ................ you have to design them your self.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2305218
You will have to do your math or measure it!
thank you for the reply,
will surely need to do the math as you correctly said... anyways... i appreciate your help in giving those few leads.. :-)
Wish you a very Happy New Year!!
You forgot to add 10mm Xcarriage
to everyone: i know that there is a remix, but i want to use the one scott designed. i will only use remix as last way out
Realized same thing today. Which one are you using today?
there was no other way for me since scott do not read our comments
remember to get 1 long bearing and 1 short
Thank you :)
So....being as I live in an area where aluminum extrusion is near impossible to find. Has anyone thought of using 2x2 wooden beams to build the frame or something more easily accessible?
How much does this cost?
Depends whee you source. You can search for "Hypercube Evolution BOM" on Aliexpress. There is one seller providing almost full BoM
Dear fellas, I wonder about the rails diameter.. is it possible and reliable to use the same diameter for all axis x, y and z. For example, 8mm for all axis? I am thinking to build it for a volume of 400x400x400..
On that lenghth I think it is to thin, espacially on the y-axis.
what would be the problem if i use 8mm linear rails?
For the standard hevo I think it is oke. For a longer y axis it will bent due the weight of the x axis train.
Thanks for the response, I gonna adopt probably 10mm.
I just bought the L Brakets for 3030 but they dont fit? Do I need a different type?
That depends what type extrusion parts you have. The l brackets on the thing detail page are for B type extrusion. So check your specs of the extrusion parts!
Hi, is there any trick to align the dual z axes so the tray runs smoothly? I find it really hard to align the holder for the rods as one can hardly reach the vertical screw due to the top frame beam.
If your build is precise as well as all parts, it should all fit perfectly.
Just a heads up, if you're in the US you can get most of the hardware off of Amazon for the same price or cheaper including shipping.
What does it cost in total, not including the 3d printed stuff?
There is a problem with the spreadsheet when trying to select dual z axis i get 509 errors on the extrusion
there is also a BOM on aliexpress with everything https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Extra-Fee-for-3D-Printer/2062033_32815806270.html?spm=2114.120106126.96.36.199a63eb0fFnFGvE not sure if the OP will support this listing?
Are there a parametric version of the Fusion 360 files that allows to update the build volume etc?
must be downloadable so i can import and mess arround with things
Firstly I would like to thank you for all the effort you've put into this. It is people like you that allows the idea of a "maker community" to work.
Have you figured this out yet? I am wanting to do the same thing.
i have inventor troubles too
when i change the excel sheet and save nothing happens in inventor.... and i dont know how to force an update
even if i close an reopen the double Z assembly nothing happens
i have attached the image of the dimensions i have selected.
i plan to build a printer for 300x300 bed size with Z axis to be 400mm but this bed is still to come and till then i want to use this with a 214x214 mm bed.
i am confused as 2020 extrusion for Y axis is showing just 128mm cut length and also which mounting bracket to select. This is the most confusing part of the build which is taking my most time in calculations.
Request an answer please!!
You must choose the 300 size bed and try to fit the smaller size bed on it with customized bedbrackets. Otherwise when you get your 300 size bed it will not fit and you have to order new 2020 parts. Ask Biggsis he did the same as you want to do.https://www.thingiverse.com/make:338255
thank you rampetampertje for the suggestion....
Hello, is there any tutorial for this? I’m trying to build one but I’m stuck on x carriage, I have seen Scott video but there are some missing steps, I don’t know screw lengs and I can’t see how belt clamps and belt itself is mounted
Watch this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IwaiJvIpIUY
join facebook and ask there
facebook and the wiki
Is there a Fusion 360 model of the 300x300 version?
Thanks for the link. It appears to be view only. I would like to be able to download it so I can make a few changes.
Would you be willing to share it? Thanks
Hello did you work out a way to make changes i am also wanting to do the same. thankyou
I was looking for a design for a 300x300 platform in a format I could import. The link from zjxlsti is view only. I Started a new design in Fusion 360 and imported parts I liked from this and other designs and modified or created new parts where i needed to. SCOTT_3D did a great job and you can import his Solidworks design into Fusion 360.
Guys, How is it possible to obtain 30cm build volume in height with 300mm z screw? Can anyone explain it to me?
or just buy longer aluminum extrusions. if you know how whole frameworks, you can pretty much design whatever you like. but build the height around Z rods (you can get) is good way to do it. normally 400mm is common to buy. so cut your extrusions accrodingly
motor with 400mm integrated screw? I found only one on aliexpres, and of course on pololu for 50$ + shipping half of the price...
It's not possible, I think. Z-screw should be approx. 30mm longer than needed Z-travel lenght (like it is said in "thing details"). I have 300mm Z-screw and my build volume in Z-direction is ~270mm...
So did You lower Your hot end and all staff to get 270mm...? Hypercube is like Ultimaker You cant start printing lower with head its always on the same height, so how You get 270mm? do You have shorter aluminium extrusion in 3cm in height?
i have single axis HCEvo. Frame is made from 3030 extrusion and bed 2020 extrusion. At least in my case it depends which way around you put Z axis nut bracket and which kind of bed brackets, springs, etc. you will use.. The rest is assembling and trying how to maximize the travel lenght...
So Your Z motor is mounted upside down? This is one and only possibility to get 270mm of print height with 300mm lead screw. Can You show some pictures?
Would it be possible to get the full assembly as a step file? I am not able to open the inventor files.
I have an obtuse request... can you tell me where I can go to get the 3030 printed corners you used in your prototype photos?
You seem to have printed these without the slot tabs in them, meaning no supports, and I'd like to do the same.
Wir haben in unserem Forum einen neuen Bereich für den Hypercube 3D geschaffen.https://www.anet3d-forum.de/https://www.anet3d-forum.de/viewforum.php?f=74
Weitere tolle Beiträge zum Thema 3D Druck und Aktionen sowie Coupon Code findet ihr im Forum !
where can I find the solidworks files for the Hypercube evolution assembly?. I can not open the inventor files.
Hi guys. I'm facing an issue with my extruder motor. I bought the one mentioned in the BOM (42 1.7A) but the extuder skips steps all the times. I already adjusted the current, lowered the steps rate and the speed but it keeps doing the same all the time...
Did anybody else faced this?
Any idea on how to fix it?
I have same problem. Solved it with a geared extruder. I use this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2172854 or you can choose one of the many Greg's Wade's Geared Extruder variants...
Actually a geared extruder seems to be the best option here... I could improve my extruder by increasing printing temperature. It seems to be something wrong on the set up of my temperature sensor. Anyway, I'll print the drakon extruder and get rid of the annoying skippig steps.
Very Thanks SCOTT_3D
Help, I need some help. I have a 3d printer that I set up following some videos on the internet. The printer from time to time stopped connecting to the computer via the pronterface and the repeater. All the ports are configured normally on the computer and the arduino, already I switched of computer but nevertheless does not work more, what could have happened? Help me please.
I canot find the Y_Carriage_Clamp_Diam8mm_LM10UU_1.0.stl, i choose the
Y_Carriage_xDia8_LM10UU_1.0 and i need the other peace to complete but i can't find. I need one with the same measures.
how much is for build one like this?
When using openoffice calc, The Vlookup for the cell c24-c27 are invalid, so I changed it to make it work.
Thanks man! Saved my night :)
With excel creator you can do bigger device. Anyone tried to build a bit smaller? I want to build 250^3. Extrusions will be ok? And how about printed parts and lead screws?
I'm planning to build HEVO with 400x400 heated bed area with dual Z (ordered all parts except rods and extrusion).
I heard about vibration issue on the larger bed. is 3030 extrusion going to be enough for 400x400x700? or 400x400x600?
Thank you in advance.
I would know if you have this project in 300x300x400 print area... or if can development or upgraded this..
use the configurator to build the dom as per your needs
Hi, I'm looking for a direct drive extruder with bltouch for hypercube evolution.
I love the prusa extruder. Someone has an adaptation with bltouch for hypercube ?
can I replace 2020 extrusion used for the build platform frame to 3030 extrusion?
is the width and depth of the 3030 extrusion the width and depth in the spread sheet. and how many of each length are needed.
I have finally found a place where I might be able to get the T-Slots, but they only come in 2020 and 4040... How would this build be affected by 4040 extrusions?
I had no problem getting 3030 from aliexpress. I actually ordered a custom BOM from a supplier that I got fedex pretty fast.
AliExpress will deliver to South Africa however the cost of shipping is more than the parts themselves so it becomes a tad bit expensive and that is before taking any landed costing into account.
@TheTWIGS, you can get it here in SA: http://moduasm.co.za. I think they are in PE and ship to major centers in 3 days.
Prices are reasonable.
Thanks for the info Pierre,
Have been on their site and they don't have 20x20, only variants, so will give them a call later today.
Appreciate it man.
Hey there guys,
Still trying to source all the parts, but hopefully soon I will be able to build this beauty.
I just want to find out, does this need to be a direct drive, or will a boden fed sysem work?
Very new to 3D Printing
IMO this design lends itself to a bowden setup and indeed appears to be setup for a J-head as designed.
I will be using a E3D V6 head fed but two remote extruders into a Y-adaptor.
What hotend do y'all recommend?
going with dual-Z drive and about to start the build, most parts are in hand now.
I want to use 10mm Z rods tho as I have a bunch already.
I am not much of a designer, are there any cad files out there for all this so I can make some changes to the Z parts?
I can fudge my way around in sketchup but importing STL files in sketchup leaves a lot of random geometry to clean up :(
Found this remix br Rodsawhitehttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2586139
10mm Z axis remix. Problem solved!!!
On the Y_Carriage_xDia10_LM10UU file it looks like the hex nut pockets for the X rod clamps are not centered on the screw hole?
Yes, the hole is not right. I am currently working on a complete redesign of the X carriage and the Y carriage and clamp that was designed by scott_3d. I am making a version that will allow the use of 10mm shaft. I'll post the new files when I am done.
I need some help troubleshooting an issue I am having with the movement of the X axis. when the X axis moves it causes the Y axis to shake back and fourth about 1-2 mm which is causing my prints to have wavy walls.
Hi guys, I bought a hot 24V 400W bed for my printer, how do I make my ramps 1.4 work at 24V, with the nema 17 17 3.3 V ??
IMO a 400w bed will pull too much thru the on board mosfet of the ramps 1.4 so get an external mosfet!!
no need to worry about the motor voltage as the stepsicks handle that. BUT YOU MUST MOD THE RAMPS TO HANDLE 24V!!!
External mosfet like this one:
Hi Fabio Mine is working at 24 volt,
De-solder the fuse which says 16 volts on it and replace it by an automotiv fuse. Look in youtube.
You need 24 volts fans and a 24 volt hotend.
My heated bed was getting his current via an external MOSFET board. It would burn the original mosfet on the Ramps.
You have to power your Arduino seperatly and desolder the diode which provides the Arduino from 5 volt.
IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS LET ME KNOW
Of course you can do it with a 12 and 24v powersupply. In that case only the 24 volts go to the external mosfet unit and everything else is powered by 12 volt
Do you have to use the 24V hot end? For the fans can you just use the fan extender module? In process of building mine, so you response is appreciated!
You can use everthing on 12 volt, I never used the fan extender module. It depends what components you have. My experience is that is easier to go on everything with 24 volts but you can use the bed on 24 volts and the rest on 12. You need 2 powersupplies in that case. The bed on 12 volt takes ages to warm up to 80 degrees and higher
To anyone thinking of joining the Hypercube Evolution Facebook group linked in the description: don't do it. Only fascist administrators are present there. No discussion, just dictatorship of the few. Just join any of the other CoreXY printer groups, it doesn't have to be an EVO group:
Glad I'm not the only one to think that the Evo group isn't run very well and what is it with the pathetic use of CAPITALS in one users replies to genuine questions and posts. Real shame
awesome design and thanks for sharing the .ipt files! I'm planning to adapt the design for use in an UM2-style composite case.
Just one question: Is there any particular reason why you chose to have the xy steppers in the front rather than in the back?
I am wondering if somone uses the 200mm x 300mm heatbed? Maybe there is an updated BOM out there... Or does someone know a 300mm x 300mm heatbed?
Here is one: https://www.thingiverse.com/make:369828
My prusa i3 has one that i want to harvest for the hypercube evo........ but first I have to print all the parts on it.
And I'am thinking of maybe to buy a 300X300 bed for de hypercube evo and build that with 3030 extrusion and build a 2020 extrusion one with the 300x200 bed. Aaaagghhh dilemma
MK2A is 300x200, but you can make you own build plate on the Excel file and select it instead of the ones already available
hi, how many space here https://youtu.be/iKh8EUGYfAU?t=2m38s btw Z axis profile and XY axis profile and also is already calculated by the configurator?
Good day All,
Trying to source all the materials required. I have the electronics, and arranged for someone to print the required 3D Printed items.
I am trying to put together a 300x300x300 Hypercube with :
Build Platform MK2A 300x300
Bed Bracket 20
Z-Axis Single (will upgrade to double in time)
X-Axis Shaft Diam 8
Y-Axis Shaft Diam 10
Z-Axis Shaft Diam 12
I am also changing the Frame Z 3030 to 550mm so that I have space below to eventually place electronics below, but will plan this out later.
What I need to know is if I can get a better understanding of the quantities of screws that I would need. From the research that I have done via the BOM and Aliexpress I am not getting proper values, especially when it comes to the M3 screws.
Unfortunately getting these can be a tad difficult here in SA and can become expensive getting them all at a qty of 100 for each type.
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated
I have also selected
Hi Guys, I'm trying to add an MKS TFT28 screen to my RAMPS but I can't get any communication between the printer and the screen. Screen boots up, RAMPS boots up, both have the same baud rate but nothing, I can't control the printer neither see temperature info...
I've tried two different screens against two different MEGA/RAMPS and always the same...
Somehow, if I connect the screen and the USB at the same time, I can see temperature info in the TFT... It seems to be some kind of issue with the TX/RX...
I'm using straight 12V supply to the screen, but the same PS for the whole system.
Did anyone else experience something like this?
Maybe this link can help you.http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?4,634909
Hi man, thanks for your reply. Actually I already read that forum (and pretty much every forum in the web) but no one mentions the same problem I have... It seems to be really easy for everybody to get this screen working...Everybody but me... Haha.
I want to use a Prusa Research MK42 heated bed. The dimensions are as follows: 254mm (X) * 235mm (Y) and the hole spacings are 209mm on both X and Y.
According to the calculator, I need to use a bed bracket smaller than 15mm.
Can someone please upload a 10mm version of the bed bracket?
Maybe this remix will do.
Thanks a ton Martin! Much appreciated!
Hello to all. I am starting to gathering the components to build the HEVO. Since I am in the US I am looking to buy the extrusions from misumiusa.com to save shipping costs. However, the prices for the additional hardware are much more than buying from Aliexpress. Does anyone know if the hardware listed in the BOM will fit the 3030 extrusions from misumiusa.com? I would hate to buy it and find out that I can only use their hardware.
Thank you for the help as I am sure that I will be searching these comments and facebook for additional answers.
everything I have bought from china worked with misumi.
try this maybe http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/253213074431
Thank you for the reply. I have ordered them and they are on the way.
I have Autodesk Inventor, how do I change the model parametricly to get the size I want?
in the parameter excel file
I am really sorry to bother but unfortunately I only have NEMA 17 60mm motors. I have seen from the BOM that you are using that the NEMA 17 motors that you have used, and thus measured for are 40mm, thus there would a 20mm loss on the z-axis if I use this motor.
WIth that said, could I simply add 20mm to the Frame Z extrusions (from 500mm to 520mm) and the same for the Z axis linear and threaded rods?
Thanks for any assistance you are able to give.
im not ome to look at mine but I think the limit to fit without modifying brackets is 48mm steppers. the Y rod holders might need to be moved up and the Z rod holders might need to be made taller. I could be wrong but off the top of my head that's what im thinking.
Yes sure that is now problem.
Look at this made hypercube evolutions they are also different builds.https://www.thingiverse.com/make:369303https://www.thingiverse.com/make:371951
I'd like to build a super small version of this and seen that the calculator does not allow for anything smaller then 210mm. I have a 120mm 12v silicon heater i would like to use to build a small version of this. Would it work to just adjust the mk2 bed to 125mm x 125mm and build plate 135mm x 135mm
As well would it be acceptable to use pancake nema 17's instead of the full size ones?
As well do I need to use 3030 or can 2020 be used for the entire unit since it will be so small. Are the parts specific to 3030?
I cannot seem to get 3030 where I am at. still trying to source it, but it's proving difficult.
Has anyone looked at 4040?
I ordered everything at www.motedis.com. You can order everything to the exact size.
Unfortunately they won't deliver to me as I am in South Africa
Is it possible to add calculation of T8 screw length into calculation table? Or remove current constant value, it is confusing.
I just have two 8mm steel rods and IGUS bearings, so can I use this rods for the X axis if I plan 475mm long? It should be 100mm longer than the original... not very much I think.
Hy, thank you for that nice thing and all the detailed informations ! What kind of filament you prefer for the parts. I like to make it in PETG HGlas, Do you think that will be a good idea. IN ABS it does't work on my old 3d printer.
Thank you for helping me.
Petg is the standard material so you are good with that. I'am printing it in ABS+(esun) on my prusa i3 and enclosed my printbed with a foam enclosure(5 mm depron).
Note: I am new to 3d printing and these are some of my noob questions.
I am building a modified version of this hypercube and I want to make sure I am doing things right. I am thinking about using a 300x200mm heated bed. for the bed itself, is a pcb and aluminum sheet with insulation such as http://www.ebay.com/itm/300x200mm-Aluminum-Heated-Bed-Build-Plate-3D-Printer-RepRap-Prusa-i3-Full-Kit-/321998961595?hash=item4af8a23bbb:g:sA0AAOSwrFJZyU-3 be sufficient? Will a single z axis be able to support/move the bed and if so, what type of nema 17 motor will it require? If you recommend using dual z axis, how is the alignment? Also, any advice on using tmc 2100 stepper drivers? I am thinking about using these stepper drivers https://www.reprap.me/stepstick-tmc2100.html Will they use the same gcode as the a4988 drivers? Also, If I were to use igus bearings https://www.reprap.me/drylinr-igus-rj4jp-01-10-10mm-linear-bearing.html can I still use steel rods or do I have to use aluminum. I am considering using carbon fiber for the x gantry, does anyone have experience with cutting carbon fiber. How do these belts http://www.ebay.com/itm/2M-GATES-6mm-2GT-GT2-RF-Fiber-Glass-Reinforced-Rubber-Timing-Belt-for-3D-Printer-/141938661911?hash=item210c341a17:g:7IIAAOSwSzdXBOUN compare the polyurethane belts everyone is using. Does anyone have experience with a Radds 1.5 and arduino due configuration? How does that compare to the beaglbone and replicape combo? Has anyone run octoprint on a beaglebone, while using it as a controller board for a 3d printer? Can 24v psu run the stepper drivers at a higher speed while maintaining the same accuracy? Final question for now, how much does the weight of the x gantry affect print speed? Second to last question, does a higher holding torque motor mean higher speeds? I am trying to find ways to move the xgantry faster, which would result in faster printing speeds. If I were to use aluminum vs carbon rods, could I still get 200mm/s+ print speeds?
Thank you so much for taking the to read my questions
300x200 bed - sure it'll be fine. Keep in mind its a 12V heatbed so you will need a beefy power supply (i.e. 12V 40A) and some very thick power wiring, like 10AWG or so.
Single Z axis - I wouldn't skimp on this, use a dual Z axis IMO. It's much more stable especially for larger format printers. If your 'long hanging' side is the 300mm side then definitely don't use a single Z. I have two HCEvos with dual Z axis and alignment isn't an issue. It holds well.
NEMA17 motor for Z (and X/Y) - most will be ok, not the tiny ones but the ones that tend to be 40-48mm thick will have ample torque.
TMC2100 - I haven't used these but I know people like them for their high microstep interpolation to make things quiet. That said I don't have any issues using simple A4988s with my printers.
Igus Bearings - I use these on my X axis along with 10mm carbon fibre rods and it's fine. I use standard LM10/LM12 linear bearings for my Y and Z rods, which are all steel. There is some data on the Igus web site about the performance and longevity of their bushings on various different types of rods. Just don't use steel bearings on an aluminium rod as it'll cut it up.
Cutting carbon fibre - use hand tools, like a hacksaw, with a particulate dust mask. Don't cut all from one side, go "around" a few cuts at a time. They're actually relatively easy to cut compared to solid steel (especially hardened steel!)
Belts - go the steel belted belts, there's little reason to cheap out and go for fibreglass reinforced belts. The HCEvo is a CoreXY mechanism and one of the few pitfalls of this design is that it's quite picky about belt tension and stretch.
Arduino Due - DUEs are a good cheap option to get 32 bit processing on an HCEvo. I am using an Arduino Due with an AZSMZ "Smart RAMPS" board (available from Aliexpress and eBay). I like it, it's basically like using an Arduino Mega + RAMPS, except you need a different AZSMZ display (also available at a decent price from above).
About the DUEs themselves, many have a bug where they need the reset button pressed before they'll boot. The fix is to find an "R3-E" model of the DUE, or do some tiny soldering to add a resistor to the board.
24V PSU on steppers - increasing the voltage to the steppers ends up increasing their torque. They'll step the same speed, just with more grunt.
Weight of X gantry on speed/accuracy - it does a lot, look at the "This is Y" video on YouTube by Tech2C for a demonstraion.
Torque vs print speed - I guess, but 3D printing isn't particularly stressful on stepper motor torque, the extruder motor being one big exception. You will need a beefier extruder motor if you up the speed a lot, and/or use a geared extruder.
Using light X gantry rods is a way to save a lot of weight. I have run my printer at 200mm/s doing an enlarged Ultimaker Robot for shits and giggles, and it coped just fine. I doubt the extruder motor enjoyed it though. A more sane printing speed for me is around 80-120mm/sec.
Thank you very much for your reply. I will buy my parts soon. Any experience with purchasing from reprap.me? Also, is the firmware provided by scorr3d good for the due and radds/azsmz combo or is there another place I have to go to get that gcode/firmware?
I am looking at building a very large version of this printer. We are talking about 650x650x650mm large. So massive, but my problem is that this would make the linear rods have a length of 800mm, 760mm, and 750mm. So if I did this steel shafts wouldn't work right? Would carbon fiber rods work if I used the IGUS bearings or would they defect as well? Or should I look into a system like the D-Bot? I like that this printer is more well developed but before I go drop 900 dollars on parts, I wanna check if they are actually gonna work first.
can I use the GT2 16T idlers (teeth and no teeth) instead of 20T idlers (and for sure also the pulleys)?
Because at this moment I can't buy the 20T model because out of stock, and plus the 16T can give more precision to the system I think.
i am also in the process of upgrading to the evolution, did the 16T idlers and pulleys work out for you?
I think you can as long as you keep the same ratio for both pulleys and idlers. Of course you need to set up your firmware accordingly too. Regarding precision, you're right, using 16th pulleys give you a slightly better precision (10 micron instead of 12.5 micron).
Hi guys. I've bought a 300x300 Mk2a heat bed (not the dual power one). Does anybody now if it can work with 24V PS? I checked the R between the cables and it seems to be a bit low for me...
yes it works.
I`ve 2 of them in my Hyper.
Thanks a lot buddy!
Scott, hello! Fine job, great ideas! In what CAD you work? can you share this files too? Whan change axis to y ans x to 12mm shaft , and z axis to 16 mm.
Hi. If you download the full file package, there you can find the ipt files in order to remix them.
thanks a lot!
Hello good afternooon, i have the same problem as the Dbswans i printed the picies with 8mm, and i need x carriage to use lm10uu bearing with ~15mm.
Found this one going to give it a shot later tonight
Hypercube Evolution X carriage 10mm found on #Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2546995
is there a 10mm X carriage ? sigh printed only one i seen and its 8mm version :-(
Does anyone know of a cheap place to source the 3030 extrusions? AliExpress is about $150 to ship whats needed (6 meters) to the US. Also, has anyone built the main frame using 2020? It would be nice to have the option built into the calculator excel sheet. I have a bunch of it lying around that could be put to use. Thanks in advance!
misumi usa is where i ordered mine $80 shipped to michigan 300x300x300 version https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/mech/M1500000000/?searchFlow=results2category&KWSearch=Aluminum%20Extrusion
I would use 8020.net if you are in the states. I'm in Canada and just ordered it all from Aliexpress because there are literally no suppliers here that do 3030 extrusion.
If you do go the aliexpress route I found that if you order a larger number of packages with a small number of items in each you can get better shipping rates. In total my frame and the rods will cost about $200 US.
I just looked up the extrusions on 8020.net and it would cost about $80 for the same amount of material that AliExpress wanted $150 for. Thank you very much for your help!
No problem, I just wish they shipped to Canada. It would have saved me a ton of money.
for my bed i needed this. made by myself, but all credit goes to scott3D
Can someone explain the difference between all the options for bed brackets? I'm going to likely be using this bed, so what would be the recommended size?: https://reprapchampion.com/products/3d-printer-heated-hot-bed-pcb-mk2a-300x300mm-pcb-24v-360watt-large-size-reprap?utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=googlepla&variant=12137585606&gclid=CjwKCAjw3rfOBRBJEiwAam-GsNgCAQx-UijVoy-uv65Vu5jVvwtcSu1wIkRvFVtD3d0CORLREhtPDxoC-7sQAvD_BwE
The link to the heatbed is down, there are so many clones anyone know a reliable vendor for a MK2a 300x300x30 Heatbed? Thanks in advance
Check this website https://reprapchampion.com/collections/heated-beds?page=3
I've bought parts from them few times - they ship the same day from warehouse in Florida.
BOM needs updating. calls for 8x 3030 Corner brackets, but for dual Z, you need 12.
hi scott3D for info X_Carriage_1.0.stl have issues : hole is missing on one side for optical sensor plug, the hole on the other side for the sensor is to small seem that we have to unsolder the connector as describe in video. Last issue is the hole for insert who retain the head they are to big
Dod you solve the issue with extruder mount and lack of left hole?
I already own some Nena 17, it is possible to use some Shaft Coupling instead of buying the "NEMA 17 Lead Screw M8"?
Yes sure, ad some length for z axis. Search in the hypercube evolution group it is all ready asked there.I looked for you here it is.https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/hypercube-evo/topic:16568
Thanks a lot rampetampertje!
I am looking to build a custom 500 x 500 x 500 dual Z hypercube evo I am currently making a BOM for it. I am stuck up alittle on how to choose a bed bracket. Can someone explain/recommend me a bed bracket that will work with my printer?
Hello and first of all let me say thank you for all the time that has gone into this. I have a question about the excel file. when I was doing the config for dual Z. I noticed the parts list has it marked for 2 pieces for all Z_Axis_Linear_Rail_Bracket. Do I only need 2 each of the "Double" version though?? Since I'm using a Dual Z setup? Also the Z_Nut_Bracket_T10_Nut. What is that model for? Sorry if that has been asked before.
Thanks in advance.
For dual Z:
Z_Axis_Linear_Rail_Bracket_Left/Right are at the bottom; there are two of each or 4 in total.
Z_Axis_Linear_Rail_Bracket_Double_Z_Left/Right are at the top; also two of each or 4 in total.
Z_Nut_Bracket_T10_Nut would be for a 10mm lead screw nut vs the standard 8mm.
Awesome Thank you for your reply..
Thoughts on the prospects of mounting a small spindle, or mini router to the X carriage for some basic CNC engraving or light milling?
Forget about it.. the X axis rod arrangement isn't stiff enough to handle a spindle.
I have a Shapeoko 2 CNC machine that's open source and freely available (albeit rather old in the scheme of things), there's a somewhat printable CNC machine on THingiverse called the Root 3 if you're interested. I haven't built one but it looks pretty good and has a mature community around it.
Hi, I'm looking for an idea for the construction of a PickAndPlace home machine. In machines such head moving speeds are about 10x larger than typical 3D printers. Therefore it is very important that the displaced mass (head and X axis) is as small as possible. That's why I'm interested in a construction like HyperCube. And here is my question: what is the maximum speed of the head movement I can get with such a project without losing accuracy and shortening the service life? Of course I will not print 3D.
Suggested minor improvement to the Y-carriage.
Although it looks neat and tidy, the two stands of timing belt between the motor and the Y-carriage do not need to be parallel for XY-core to work correctly. This means it is possible to move the non-toothed idler pulley in the direction of the Y-rail. Since the position of the non-toothed idler pulley determines the x-size of the Y-carriage, making this move reduces the x-size of the Y-carriage and so increases the X print size.
This reduction gives a useful addition of 16mm to the X print size.
Hi, it really a nice project!
But I wasn't recommended to put belt's strain on the X slider directly in long term, it will break someday.
I find a way to solve this problem, and it is really easy to adjust tightness.https://imgur.com/a/op22F
Thank you for the files. But..... where is the spreadsheet file ?
There are a few bom's on the wiki page. https://hevo.wiki/index.php/Main_Page
Dear SCOTT_3D there is a big issue with stl in 10mm size the hole are 10,4mm big this is a lot to much for a correct calibrated printer ...
rods are not fixed even with screw screwed to max.... all my print to waste :-(
for example : XY_Idler_Mount_1.1.stl
Great Thanks for the links i will win some time instead of redraw it !
Is there a Remix of the X-Carriage for 10mm Rods? I havent found one :/
There are some in the remixes. I've done one myself for use with carbon rod and igus bushings. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2538263
Don't used 10mm steel rods. They're too heavy, and will introduce ringing on your prints.
me too! :(
I need to get better at assemblies.in Inventor
Hi, nice work! I wonder if you could add an x-carriage for my preferred sintered bronze bearings. Those are available for diameter 8 rods in different dimensions. The outer diameters are either 10/11/12 or 14.
Could you upload a modified version for one of these outer diameters? 12 would be fine for me.
Thanks a lot in advance, greetings from Germany
This one I made for igus bushings. The OD of those is 12mm. Should work for you. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2538263
The hole is modeled at 12.3, and on my printer fits the 12mm OD igus very well.
Yes, how do I get the spreadsheet file?
Could somebody post, how to wire endstops and how to configure them ?
I´m using for X and Y optical and for Z axis NPN inductive proximity sensor.
And at least - Repetier FW
Best regards and happy printing !
copy the V S G voltage signal ground. match the label on the boards
And could somebody post Slic3r setting or Simplify 3D settings ?
I missing a calculation for the rods at the Steppers in the excel sheet
i wanna build a Hypercube with Build vol 300x300x500 but i dont know how long these rods should be
Why are the holes in the Y Carriage for the LM10UU 8mm size, 8.4mm dia? They are way to big when printed. Can't clamp the 8mm rods in the plastic parts. Do you have some files that I can modify? Can change the stl files. step files could work.
I have a same problem. I dont know whether it is calibration problem or design problem. I need to tight the screws very tightly to secure the rod. EDIT- I checked stl, its indeed 8,4
Hello, file for LM10UU X Carriage please?
Why doesn't the hole in the double z left and right bracket go all the way through? You can't bolt it to the extrusion it the hole doesn't go through. Maybe you did this for a reason?
Where's the LM10UU X carriage?
hi there, I have wanted to use this design for my first corexy printer but any way to make the x and y gantry for lm12uu as well? I had built the old mega prusa i3 before and have all 12mm rods that can be used on this. I will keep looking in case I missed a remix or such thanks.
prusa system can easly manage 12mm rods but not the hypercube
12mm steel rods for the X axis will be much too heavy. People even use carbon fiber rods on X to reduce weight...
Hi guys, any motor mount/ idler mount for 4040 profile?
Apologies if this has been asked before. This looks like a great upgrade. I don't yet have a 3D printer so looking for a good base printer to start with. I see the Anet A8 mentioned often below. Is this upgrade mainly for the A8 or does this also work with other other printers. Any recommendations for a beginner? I'm pretty good at building stuff so constructing from a kit should be fine.
You can build this printer from scratch.
Thanks @chanders. Makes sense that I attempt a kit build first - i can then use to print the parts for the a Hypercube.
Didn't want to say it :)
Check out the Wanhao Duplicator I3. Its an excellent printer with TONS of mods and owners
off question, what is that filament in some of the shots? the green/yellowish neon looking one?
can i use TMC2100 in this ?
yes, but probably with many troubles. TMC2208 is easiest option or LV8729 if you want to use any 32bit board.
I don't see why not. They are good drivers. I did read somewhere that there was some whining in the motors but I would think that that was due to the unique motor/driver combination and not the printer design.
too torque chop, 2100 required very very low acc.
What is the outer frame size of this Printer?
I used the HyperCube Evolution configuration spreadsheet with my preferred travel, and then added 60mm (2x 30mm widths) to the X and Y beam dimensions it recommends to arrive at the final width. The height of the printer is the same as the length of the calculated Z beams.
Is there any list of which parts is needed and what amount of the part for a full set of parts for the printer?
3d printed parts? Have a look at the configuration spreadsheet.
Oh man, did not realize that it was more than on page on the sheet. Thanks!
I actually printed 2020 at first, got fed up with it, and then just ordered 3030. I threaded 100mm long 1mm thick single walled printed 2020 onto 5/16inch threaded rods. Everything was going fine until I decided to bring the entire batch of printed 2020 to 100°C in the oven to add a bit of ease threading in the 5/16inch threaded rods. I watched a video that said you lose a bit on the Z axis doing this baking without mention of warping. This baking warped the printed 2020 - I should have known better and tested a single piece first. Perhaps it was the single walled nature of my specific parts that induced this warping. I still finished assembling a 400mm x 400mm frame with the printed 2020 which "seems" fairly rigid yet I believe only Salvador Dali would use it as a 3D printer... My experience/exposure is assembling a single DIY 3D printer kit and have no example of what acceptable rigidity is - thus I just went ahead and ordered the 3030. I may add some thoughts on this when I've learned more. For me, the time and cost of printing the 2020 was not worth attempting to circumvent the aluminum 3030. At the very least, it gave me some experience to share. The individual 100mm PLA printed 2020 extrusion is exremely tough and rigid by the way.
Hi Scott is they're any interest to use 12mm rods on z axis in the double z axis configuration instead of using 8mm ? I have plenty off 8mm bushing and rods so I would like to use it. I don't see any reason to use 12mm because there is not effort on the rod like in the single z axis version but may be I m wrong what do you thinks of that ? Many thanks
Your logic sounds sound to me :) The only thing I would think is if you have a particularly tall version of the printer you may have some vibration at the midpoint if the printer is not no a level surface.
Classic 30x30x30 I m also thinking about mgn 12 for y to reduce number of printed part but if I continue I will have to renamed it because it will not be an evo anymore :-(
Just purchased all the parts needed for the printer. Will start printing out the remaining parts now. Can't wait to get started on building this!
Anyone experimented with print setting for the 3d parts? Also, any tips for achieving the best results?
i tried to enter a 500 x 500 bed in the excel config
so i enter 528 x 528 and 525 x 525, but no matter what bracket i select it says N/A under it
what am i doing wrong?
i just reopened the sheet and started over... problem solved
I was just having the same issue, just err: 509. OpenOffice doesnt work, use microsoft
both libreoffice and google sheets works fine.... i think you missed my post that i reopened and it worked
Didn't miss anything, saw it and was giving out the knowledge that I acquired. Take it or leave it...
have anyone the "Z_Nut_bracket" for this dimensions ?:http://www.motedis.com/shop/images/product_images/popup_images/3402_2.jpg
I have only Linux and Autodesk don't work here
Freecad can't read .ipt files
can me help anyone ?
I sent you a message with the file "Z Nut Braket 1.0.ipt" exported as STEP file.
Edit: I just realized that the text has been altered by the system (several "*" and "#" have been removed), so if you still need the file "Z Nut Braket.stp", let me know where to upload it, or alternatively give me an email address where I can send the file in attach (here I don't see any option to attach a file to a message).
I really love this desgin! I ordered all Parts today and going to build i as soon as the Parts arrived.
I was lucky today is Banggood Sale so i got 11% discount on almost everything:
Thank you so much for you Design!
What was the total cost for all the parts?
all the aliexpress link is in russia? post cost 10$+ each item?
Hi Scott , first of all -very nice work ! Hope to build this model :) One request - unfortunately I'm using older version of Inventor ( like many others) and I can't open your assembly . It may be great if you will add .STEP file so others can open and use your 3D model ( not only Inventor users, but other CAD systems also )
Anyway , great job , nice done !
Which Types of Extrusions you use ?
there are so many types ,
i figured out it could be 30x30 8 Type B but not 100% sure
but what about the 20x20 ?!?!?!
are those 20x20 6 Type B ?
Could you please Edit your BOM with those infos
The choice between Bosch and Item type profiles is probably only relevant in Europe. You want the 8mm opening for 3030s so B-type is correct. I also used B-type for 2020s. Make sure your brackets, fasteners etc match the profiles.
The link in the BOM shows a profile with an 8mm opening if you're in doubt.
Quick suggestion/question, on the y axis rod clamps in the xy mounts why is the threaded nut on the outside instead of the inside so it cant be tightened after the pulleys and motor are installed? If the nut was installed on the inside and the recess for the cap head was on the outside it would simplify assembly. Looking forward to building this once I get my extrusions in.
That was the original way they were designed but the threaded insert is next to impossible to install without melting things. Simply preassemble everything on to the Y rod and install as an assembly. Works great.
I am thinking that I would like to make this printer, but use a Plywood cube for the frame. I would like to put the motors on the outside of the cube so I can heat the chamber and not destroy the motors. do you think this would be possible. I would mount the z axis motor below the cube with the lead screw poking thru the ply wood cube.
Your thoughts would be appreciated...
Using plywood will be OK, but wood changes size and shape with moisture and heat. Heating a plywood box is probably not the best idea. I am working on rebuilding my printer and have decided to use the HyperCube design, but enclose it with Plexiglas or something similar. That will give me the rigidity of the aluminium extruded frame, but a heated enclosure for some plastics.
Will I be able to move the x/y motors outside the cube?
Hello All, sorry if this question looks stupid, but the 3d printable files have versions. which version should i use? v1.1 or 1.0 or the latest available version ? am using Lin's bom with a standard 300x300 config.
Hello Scott, great design you picked for improving. Indeed, this is one of the best coreXY belt arrangement I've seen. I'm quite amazed by the attention to detail for every part you designed. Also, I can't emphasize how happy I am that you have uploaded the source cad files, It lets me do a virtual assembly before printing the parts and that it's priceless. Thank you very much!!!
One thing I've discovered, check the "Z_Axis_Linear_Rail_Bracket". Both versions, 1.0 and 1.1 seems to be missing a hole for the M5 screw.
Keep up the good work.
Hi Martin, thanks for the kind words. In general, use the latest version of the files. Not all parts have v1.1 so you will have a mix of 1.0 and 1.0 to print.
Hola! Pudiste conseguir el perfil 3030 en BsAs? Yo rediseñé todas las piezas para 2020, pero si lo pudiera hacer en 3030 mejor... Saludos!
Hola tocayo, se que Lineartec los vende. Ni idea el precio, pero ellos trabajan los Rexroth de Bosch que es de lo mejor que se puede conseguir. Hace unos 2 años compre en Rulemanes Munro perfil 3030 pero recuerdo que me asesinaron un poco con el precio.
Por mi parte, tengo ganas de armar una maquina con cama caliente de 300x300mm y 400mm de altura; asi que si no consigo 3030, iría por los 4040 que la gente de INGIA los vende a precio razonable. Prefiero pasarme de bruto a que quede fragil. Saludos!
Gracias por el dato! Voy a chequear en Lineartec. Según estuve viendo, en 2020 para estas medidas no hay problema, la estructura es suficientemente sólida, pero de cualquier manera si pudiera hacerla en 3030 mejor. Iba a comprar el anodizado negro de INGIA, pero voy a seguir buscando el 3030.
Hello. whats the name of that part that looks like a puley with a bolt connected to the stepper motors??? it isn't listed in the parts and it didnt came with my 3 stepper motors
2 x GT2 Timing Pulley (20 teeth) 5mm bore for 6mm belt
Anyone else get the power supply linked in the description? I believe mine just blew up on me. No longer works, and when I shake it, some solid of thermal paste has been falling out.
The postman has dropped a few more parcels and I'm now building in earnest, but I have a question about controller electronics. I've been reading about CoreXY and 8 vs 32 bit controllers and etc. and I'm wondering how people have fared using 8 bit controllers, whether they've hit any quality or speed problems when starting to push the machine (and how fast they were going!).
EDIT: I'll be sticking with 1/16 microstepping, I'm fine with the noise and my 4 year old loves the "robot noises" :-)
If I'm going to go 32 bit, my current front runner is an Arduino Due + Smart RAMPS, running 32 bit Repetier. It's cheap, I like Repetier's no nonsense information-dense display and I'm used to the Repetier "way of doing things". Of course a DuetEthernet and PanelDue would be amazing, but it's verrrry expensive and I'm not totally sold that a touch screen is actually better than a rotary (i.e. tactile) encoder from a usability standpoint.
I've more or less discounted the MKS SBASE + TFT32 because the user interface is information-poor and looks poorly thought out.
Hi scott in your description you say that the 303030 size have some vibration bed issue.
did you mean with the only one Z axis support or 2 ??? i want to convert an prusa i3 To hypercube but i want a nice quality so should i chose a 303030 or 202030 machine size ? i will make the 2 z axis version in anycase. I would like to have a evolutive machine size so a 303030 sound good even i start with a 20*20 bed what do you think ? thanks
I'd like to build something similar to this machine but i'm hoping to use 2020 for all the extrusions as i already have a bunch sitting around. What would i have to do to the measurements to do this? Would i just add 20mm to each?
The Evolution uses 3030. The standard uses 2020 so you should just use that: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1752766
Can you update it with normal Hex-Nuts for 8mm XY Rods?
I will make a compact Version with a Printer dimension of 340x340x440mm.
Or can i have the .step Files?
Any reason why you're not using the frame for linear motion? Could further reduce complexity using v-slot rails.
Usually more expensive to go that route, and the whole point of this build is the core-xy belt system.
when i select the Z axis to be double somehow the 12 mm Diameter Shaft length decreases and when i select the Z axis to be single the shaft length increases.... in the Excel sheet.
cannot understand why does this happen??
Look at the main pictures. The dual Z-axis uses a bar in the middle while the single Z-axis shafts go from top of the printer to the bottom
I can't check to confirm right now, but it is possible that the changed motor mounting solution requires a shorter shaft. Again, can't confirm, but it sounds possible.
Was assembling my excel sheet, pulley and belts link is dead for some reason...
Has anyone done a CoreXY style printer using 8020 series 15 yet? I am looking for the 3D parts to print using this standard.
Real 8020 Series 15 is 1.5" x 1.5" and 2020 is only 20mm or .78" x .78" series 15 could hold an elephant :)
Most of the resolution of a 3D printer is arbitrary. There is a very easy mod to increase the Z axis resolution, actually. If you drive both Z axis rods from 1 motor, you will be running on 2:1 gearing ratio, increasing the z-axis resolution. Other than that, most of the quality improvements of a 3D printer come from rigidity and consistency. the Original Prusa i3 Mk2 is a fantastic machine. Realistically, it costs around twice as much as the HEVO. The hevo has about 10cm more build area in each direction, and is a learning experience. It is quite easy to build, but going through the motions is a great way to familiarize yourself with how printers work.
How hard would it be to make this into a 400x400x400 Printer?
It is incredibly easy! If you download the Configurator spreadsheet, you can put in the side lengths you'd like, and then select the double z axis version. It tells you all of the parts you need to change (frame and belt), and what the new lengths and quantities are.
Just make sure you pick the double z version - even the 300^3 should have it.
Thanks for you reply. i been playing with your excel doc.
i noticed it doesn't state all the parts you need. like lead screw length and type, etc.
If you extend an axis by 100mm, extend the lead screw / rods / etc by 100mm in that direction.
These depends on your build. The standard size uses integrated motor/screws. Jump on youtube and have a look at scotts vids.
Hey everyone. Im seriously considering building this. But with a twist. I want to print the 3030 and 2020 extrusion. what do you guys think?
really print the entire length of the extrusion?? man i salute you for even thinking of doing that :-)
Big enough printer to print the extrusion?
Yikes, it seems like you might run into an awful lot of problems. I'm not saying you shouldn't do it, but I think you should consider the following:
Unless the printer's going to be really small, you're going to have some trouble printing extrusions that are 400mm+
The extrusions are probably not going to be perfectly printed. This could affect both how well parts connect to the extrusions and how even the frame is, both of which could eventually affect the quality of your prints.
It seems like the cost of aluminum extrusions would be much less than how much of a pain it would be to try to print them. That being said, if you do decide to print them, I would be very curious to see how they turn out!
can i build it for the larger bed option but use the smaller one till i feel the need to just upgrade the bed in one go instead of building the entire new frame again?
yes you can, you would just need to set your 0x,0y pos of the smaller bed.
Can you make the parts for 2020 profile please?
I'm working on it as well. I have all the parts re designed for 2020 extrusion. I'll upload later today.
Please consider this is a work in progress, not mounted yet due to my extrusions didn't arrive.
He, someone send me a link yesterday with also a redesign on facebook. i have printed already some parts. But when you have uploaded it i check, many thnx
Would you mind sharing the link you received on facebook?
Has anyone seen parts for 8020 series 15 yet?
this is my version for 2020 extrusion. Enjoy.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2452700
thnx men, i am looking for the blockts that use 10mm ball bearings. only need blocks for igus and they need to be pressed in with 40 kilograms force, kan you make them a little bit smaller?
Has anyone figured out how to mount the optical end switch on the left side? The zero side??? There is no hole like there is on the right side for me to push the wires through.
theres a remix version on facebook with larger holes. I also put up a remix of that one with no brass inserts required here on thingiverse.
Hey buddy. You have to remove the jst-xh connector housing and solder the wires directly to the pcb. Then run this wire through the channel inside the print, which brings the wire out to where the X max end stop is mounted.
maybe you just had mount it inverted?
Hi, With double Z and 200x200 print area it looks like 12mm rods for the Z axis is a bit excessive. This looks like an optimization made for single Z, are you considering publishing an option with smaller rods on Z axis?