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Monoprice MP Select Mini Z Axis Adjustable Endstop

by divide Apr 1, 2017
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Quick question. Can this be installed and keep the x gantry cover? Thanks!

Haven't yet tested my make, as I want to get a longer screw first and finish my glass bed but I can't wait to use this mod. Thanks for sharing!

I just installed this. It is a very nice mod. I had to make the little green board my limit switch is soldered to a little shorter to fit in the cavity. It was simple to do I just filed it down until it fit. This is a lovely solution to the limit switch problem. Thank you for sharing your work.

This seems incompatible with the Mini v2. I think the cutout for the x axis arm on the v2 isn't as low as the v1, so the endstop with this mount ends up too high. Without the adjustment screw entirely, the nozzle's minimum distance from the bed was like 50mm (I don't remember the exact spacing).

I didn't run into this last night when I installed it on my v2. Which makes me wonder if mine actually is a v2. I just got it a few weeks ago and all signs point to it being a v2. I did only use a 16mm screw (which I plan to upgrade to a 20 or 24 mm screw) but even with glass off the bed and just buildtak on, I didn't bottom out on the screw. I had to back it off a good couple mm. But for me, the 16mm screw is a little short and really bunches up the spring.

The v2 I designed it for was from the batched sold, it might have been different from the newer ones that have varied slightly. I've has 2 replacements since then, I'll have to try this switch clamp again on the current Mini sometime.

I've made an alternate mount that seems like it will work on my v2. I'll post it as a remix to this.

Do you need to leave the X axis shield OFF then, for this mod?

Yes, it must remain off, there isn't enough room for an adjustment screw with it in place. Fortunately the shield doesn't serve any real purpose besides to rattle and catch on belt tension clips.

OK, so it's not exactly clear what to do with the X axis endstop. Am I missing a piece?

Some of the printers come with the X limit switch mounted directly to the carriage, newer ones come with the switch mounted to the metal shield. If yours is mounted to the shield, you'll need a really simple adapter.

Here are 2 different ones, I'm using the first one.

If you have your printer already taken apart, you should be able to fabricate a temporary bracket or somehow attach it on. It doesn't have to be exact or very sturdy, just enough to home the printer and not hit the tower.

MP Select Mini X-Axis Limit Switch Bracket
MP Mini X-Axis Limit Switch Bracket

This is what I did, though I didn't push in the nuts enough and they push on the rear shield at the top when the Z-Axis is maxed out. So I'll probably have to take it apart and make that happen to get those few extra mm back.

Just started installation. With it at it's minimum it is still about 4mm from the bed with the stock hotend. I am going to try a version that brings up the screw a bit.

Interesting, I installed an E3D so it may be off, but it shouldn't be that far. Is your bed as far up as it will go?

Is the top bracket hitting the limit switch bracket? Could the limit switch arm be bent upward? Please post a picture of how low it will go with the screw all the way backed out. Also, measure the distance from the bed to the bottom of the lower 6mm rod.

I figured out it was because i used a nylon lock nut instead of a spring. This nut protrudes from the bottom of the part. I made a version of the bracket that compensates for that and now it's all good.

Do you have a nut at the top and bottom? Part of the reason for the spring it to pull up on the screw, preventing the nut from falling out or the whole thing moving down while adjusting.

A nyloc can take quite a bit of force to turn, I would be concerned about shifting things while adjusting. Cheap/Free Clicker Pens have perfect sized springs if you are having trouble finding one.

Didn’t print it yet (no need to adjust my endstop using BuildTak), but I want to express my deep respect for this beautiful design, the installation manual and parts list. Being a designer myself, I know that this probably took much longer to design out than most people would think. I only wish every upgrade would be as well-thought-out as this one. (I only hope it works as well as it looks. ;)

Now if I may ask the most unrelated of questions: What’s that turquois filament you used? I like the color.

Thank you :)

You may still benefit from the limit switch mod in case you need to clean, swap or adjust your nozzle. Additionally its really useful for fine tuning the first layer height.

The PLA in the photos is eSun PLA Pro, Light Blue color. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EKEMN9W

I've stopped buying any other PLA besides the eSun Pro/Plus line. It prints a little hotter at 210-215, never strings and makes extremely strong prints. Often I use it in place of ABS and PETG for functional prints due to its easy of printing and strength.

The Red color turns out more like orange,but still looks fantastic.