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Original Prusa i3 MK2 E3D Titan Aero Upgrade

by GregoryHolloway Mar 24, 2017
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how do you do "cold pulls" with this type of extruder if there is no spring lever to push down on?

can you make one for the MK3?

Still wondering about the question below☺

No idea. I have neither a MK2 any more or the Bear upgrade. Try it and see.

I have the Prusa MK2s with the Bear upgarde (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2808408).

i have a Titan Aero laying around and would like to use this with my printer.
is it possible to use your design, but without the spacer (i know i will loose some printing area)?

Prusa i3 Bear Upgrade v2.0
Comments deleted.

hey brothers i have problems with the firmware on my prusa mk2s... i try modify the values and after that i apply verificate and export binarys ... but when i update with de prusa software the Firmware.ino.hex .......... my prusa dont respond .. my display is in blank and the prusa software show me the next message :
someone can help and tell me what is my wrong step?

avrdude.exe: AVR device initialized and ready to accept instructions Reading | ################################################## | 100% -0.00s avrdude.exe: Device signature = 0x1e9801 (probably m2560) avrdude.exe: reading input file "./fw.hex" avrdude.exe: input file ./fw.hex auto detected as Intel Hex avrdude.exe: writing flash (251072 bytes): Writing | ################################################## | 100% 42.72s avrdude.exe: 251072 bytes of flash written avrdude.exe: verifying flash memory against ./fw.hex: avrdude.exe: load data flash data from input file ./fw.hex: avrdude.exe: error opening ./fw.hex: No such file or directory avrdude.exe: can't determine file format for ./fw.hex, specify explicitly avrdude.exe: read from file './fw.hex' failed avrdude.exe done. Thank you.

What's the U shaped part for? And what's the little screw in the lower back side of the X carriage under the bearing?

The U-Shape is a spacer for the rear of the frame and the little screw is for the endstop.

Wait, how does an endstop fit in there? Sorry I'm just having trouble visualizing it.

It doesn't. The screw hits against the endstop.

Design question for you. Looking from the top down, why did you make it with an L shape. Did you think about putting the portion that sticks out to connect the motor part coming out from the middle of the bearing portion so that it looks like a T? I am designing something similar and was wondering what your thought process was? I see you are making good prints as it is, so maybe the weight of the extruder is not an issue either way. Thanks for design, and especially for posting the step files.

My main design constraints are the position of the belt, keeping the nozzle within the printbed and ensuring that the level sensor can reach all the calibration points. The L shape is the result of those constraints.

I expect there are plenty of other ways of doing things!

Hi, I've opened the .f3d file in Fusion 360 with the intent of redoing the belt holder to fit an Anet A8 but it seems to be slightly messed up. See http://imgur.com/a/0yUdG Any idea what's going on? My Fusion skills are limited, so while I've been able to redo the belt holder I can't fix these to my satisfaction. Cheers.

Check through the timeline looking at what each process does and how it affects the model. Use the slider at the bottom to move through the individual processes.

Apologies if I'm turning this into a Fusion 360 tutorial. I've been through the timeline as well as I can and I think I understand what it's doing. Just not why it seems to be (not) doing it. For some reason it appears to be omitting the outer part of the cylinder on the upper and lower fan mounts. This is what the lower fan mount sketch looks like when I view it (the shaded area's not being extruded): https://imgur.com/a/5Kidp

That said, I've managed to suppress enough features in the timeline to get to a point where the upper and lower portions that would surround the M3 nut were visible. I was then able to re-extrude the missing portions and align and fillet the edges again. So I've now got this: http://imgur.com/a/GKbMQ


I don't know why it's not working, I can't see the timeline or what operations you have performed so it's a little difficult to know what is wrong.

Is the missing bit extruded? You can double click the extrusion icon in the timeline and click on any parts of the sketch that need extruding.

I'd say I'd send you the f3d file, but from my perspective there would be little point, as the timeline is literally your timeline. The image in my first post is the file as I downloaded it from here and imported/uploaded into Fusion 360. The only operation I'd performed at that point was to rotate the model. Here's how it looks, freshly downloaded from here and imported, before I've touched anything: http://imgur.com/a/fdsMk

Thanks for your time. I think I've managed to work my way around whatever was going on. If it turns out okay I'll be posting it as a remix.

What orientation should the reach around fan duct be printed?... and what do you recommend for settings (ie supports... from build platform only, etc)

My first impression is that you would flip the design so that the flat bottom layer would be printed first... then all the angles seem like they would print fine with no supports or minimal..... but then I started thinking about how the thing is hollow, and trying to get a feel for how exactly it needs to be printed to actually function (and also, I suppose there could be a good reason the file is setup in the orientation it is.... tho have printed many a design that required some form of rotation.... never fully understood why tho, seems it would be logical to have the file setup in the best orientation for printing)

Anyway, thanks for the help in advance... and great design.

FYI. I tried printing the 39mm Reach around twice and the fan mount screw holes are being printed filled. Using the latest version of Simplify 3D to slice and Prusa MK2 to print. the 24mm one prints the holes fine.Didn't change anything on the slicer but the model.

Hmmm odd, have you tried changing the first layer % height. I have seen this cause errors in S3D.

Finally built this assembly. Looks good and works well.

There was some additional things I did to help with the new setup.

1) Update the V2 calibration files on the SD card - they just perform a G29 home in the code, and start printing test strips from there on my linear rods instead of on the bed. See my post below if you want to know what to add.
2) I'm running e3d's 'compact yet powerful' stepper motor (Wantai 42BYGHM208P4), so I had to adjust the steps and power in firmware as follows:

#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   {100,100,3200/8,837.0}
 #define DEFAULT_PWM_MOTOR_CURRENT  {270, 830, 800} // {XY,Z,E}
 #define DEFAULT_PWM_MOTOR_CURRENT_LOUD  {540, 830, 800} // {XY,Z,E}

Stepper is quiet, so having the same setting for normal and loud don't make a difference. Let me know if I should go higher on the current.
3) Updated slic3r End G-Code:
M107 ; turn off fan
G1 Z30; Move the head up ---- added this line
G1 X0 Y200; home X axis
This prevents the wiring bundle from rubbing on the back of the heated bed connector during the home routine after a print. It just sounded bad every time it finished a print.
4) Updated the bed size on Slic3r (to avoid slicing an object outside of the new bed volume). I lost 22mm on the y axis for some reason instead of 20mm. Not sure why that is - my spacer is the right size.


  • Looks really slick. The shortened height and aluminum heatsink look good.
  • I had the Titan on my V6 before, and I can't tell any difference between just a Titan with a V6, and Titan Aero V6.
  • Extrusion seems good. Encountering a tiny bit more stringing (which might be attributed to the filament i'm using - not sure).
  • Will have to report back on flexible filaments to see how things turn out.

If you are looking to upgrade the default y-carriage that comes with the i3 mk2, the titan alone makes it worth it. If you already have Titan, I don't see any reason for you to upgrade, unless you really need the (very minor) extra height. It's more of a modification of the Titan than an upgrade on it.

I can see the next revision of hotend/coldend will be an integrated solution with the extruder. It only makes sense that things are moving that way. We are going to get more compact solutions in the future.

Thanks for providing this to the community!

How's it compare to the Titan w/V6 using flexible filaments? I primarily print TPU now and have just recently installed the Titan (not Aero) on my MK2 but considering upgrading the Titan to an Aero if printing flexible filament is better.

If there's no layer cooling fan, that would immediately explain the stringing.

Have you tried flexible filament yet?

Any reason why you set Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER to 0 instead of the -0.4 that Prusa has in their firmware?

Nopes. I prefer integers.

Having a problem - my v2 calibration line extrudes the test strip outside the print area now. I checked the gcode on the file, and I can't seem to find where it is moving the print head to do the strip of filament outside the print area.

Any thoughts?

Nevermind - found it.

G28 moves to home position which is good for the probe but not good if you want to run a test strip on the nozzle.

I have to modify the V2 calibration gcode to add a line after G28 as follows:

G1 Y-3.0 F1000.0

All is good.

Ah ha!

That is exactly what I used to modify the firmware. I couldn't find the link to the repository. I will add it to the description. Thanks :)

+1 for supporting dc42's differential IR sensor! Great design, printing it now and will see if I can hack in the sensor. If not I'll nag you some more :). Thanks Gregory!

I would like to use this also with DC42's sensor.

My pleasure. I am looking forward to seeing your hack :)

What diameter is your bed leveling sensor?

It's the Prusa standard bed leveling sensor. The thread is M8 and the black tip is ~6mm.

How is the volume on the Aero fan? My Prusa hotend fan is lound on the v6

It's a little less loud than the stock fan. The slightly larger fan doesn't have to spin quite as fast.

I'm going to try replacing the clear fan they give you with a noctua in the next week and see if there is any improvement.

It's fine to me.

is it hard to do a version of this and make it work with a volcano?

It might work with the volcano now, the sensor just needs to come down by ~10mm and it will be fine.

Will the fan part work for the Volcano as well you think? Maybe it might be good to adjust it as well about 10mm lower, think that's possible in an easy way?

By the way, you've got a ** awesome design going here dude! Dat Engineer!

Oh awsome thankyou very much for the help. Now can you make something for the bigbox. Lol jk, but it would be awsome.

I will look into it, maybe a hybrid IDEX with one aero and one bowden v6. I will have a try when I have some spare time.

Is it possible to extended the Y-Axis by 15cm so you don't loose 15cm on the bed?

Probably. Give it a go and see :)

I use the mini differential IR height sensor (http://www.escher3d.com/pages/order/products/product1.php) on a "Stock" i3, so I'll be interested in your Prusa i3 MK1 Titan Aero carriage when its ready, as it will twist my arm to do this upgrade..

I shall see what I can do, we use/used the same sensor on the BigBox so I have plenty here to test with.....

That would be fantastic. I am currently attempting to design one in freecad for that setup using the fan mounts from the mk2 one. I am sure an official one wold be a will a lot better.

Thank you for providing this. The kit from E3D is on the way, and i'll be printing this asap.

Does this work with the shorter stepper motor, or just the full size one?

I have made Reach-Around Fan Ducts for motors with a body length of 39mm, 34mm and 26mm. So long as the motor you have is no longer than 39mm it will be usable.

Will the 40mm from e3d fit in your 39mm body (is it close enough)?


This is awesome. I have a Titan Extruder and Pancake motor sitting in a box but never got around installing on my MK2. I'm going to order the Aero upgrade kit to do this. Did you use your standard 12v heater cartridge to use on the MK2?

Yup, all the standard Prusa MK2 Parts. It's a 12v system.

awesome thanks! I assume you're having no issues and like it better than stock?

No issues as yet :)

Fantastic man. I can't believe how fast you got this out there. Did you have a preproduction Aero to design off of?
Thanks a bunch!

He works for E3D :D

Haha, fantastic. So now I have even more confidence in the design :)

Yup, indeed I did.

Great! Thanks, Gregory!

Why do I need to flash the printer with this file?


Thank you


Because the inductive sensor is in a different location in relation to the nozzle that it is with the standard x-carriage. The offset needs to be changed in the firmware. It also sets a new home position to compensate for the changed probe location.

OK, I see, but this will overwrite Prusa's firmware, no?


It is the same firmware, I downloaded the code from Prusa's repository, changed the numbers for the probe offset and home positions and compiled it into a hex. Everything is exactly the same as the standard firmware.

This one?

Are you releasing a new firmware everytime Prusa releases a new one?

Thank you

Maybe. It is a pretty simple operation so anyone can make the changes should they so require.

Hello Gregory,

Would you be kind enough to list the changes you have made?


I already have done.

Thanks a ton! My bad, I did not read the description thoroughly.

Was there no way to design this without losing 15mm on the Y-Axis?


I expect so, the issue is getting the inductive sensor as close to the nozzle along the Y-Axis as possible.

There is also the consideration of the motor driving the extruder. The original Prusa design has the motor facing forwards, that's not something that can be done with the Titan Aero, it would block the fan.

I'm sure someone clever than I will come along and make it better :)

Could you add a photo from straight on as well as from the left?

Is there an attachment for a BLTouch? Thanks!


FYI, I remixed Greg's mount with a BL Touch. I know this is years ago now, but figure I would share.

Prusa i3/Anet A8 Titan Aero Mount with BLTouch
by clegg78


You're best off using the inductive sensor otherwise you'll not be able to use Prusa's fancy bed calibration.

There will be a Prusa i3 MK1 Titan Aero Upgrade coming in the future...... I will try and include the BLTouch, I have one on my desk.....

hey Greg, did this come to fruition?

Thanks. I'm using a Prusa i3 derivative, so I setup Marlin myself. Thanks!