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"Hulk" Frame Brace for the Anet A8

by Leo_N May 8, 2017
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Hi, Just wondering if anyone knows if these braces are a compatable fit for the Anet A8 dual color printer. I dont have the printer yet its on its way

i printed the arms for "without braces" and the lower brackets - and the arms end almost level with the part that the lower brace mounts to - thats almost 2cm too long. any thoughts? same on both sides

I have already busted 2 of the right legs trying to make this d&%# thing. First trying to put it into the bottom frame. Second from pulling off the supports. Clearly i'm an idiot. But maybe this thing isn't as "hulkish" as its name suggests.

Comments deleted.

Hmmm, I thought I wrote it clearly in the "Summery" what versions you need to print. Please read again and if you have additional questions then I can try to answer them.

I have printed this for my "Anet A8" ( I suspect it is a clone of a clone, but like others all the stuff says its an a8) and everything fits perfectly with one minor issue, the motor impacts the bottom left mounting piece when traveling down to the zmin end-stop. Nothing has been customized in this portion of my printer. I am printing a slight remix of the design to move the left edge in about 5mm for clearance.

I have attached the file I am printing in case someone else runs into this issue.

I loosened the motor to help relieve the stress while I investigated, that is why the motor is skewed away from the frame.

New bracket fits nicely, lots of clearance now

Thank you,
Perfect design, installed on Anet A8 2018 version (no need of plates for this version).
Greatly improve the X axis stability.

Thanks for the info.

Hi Leo, first of all thank you for this wonderful part! I've got an odd problem though: I have an anet with the autoleveling feature, and occasionally my carriage hits the bottom brace on the left hand side. This only happens during the homing phase when you start a print, and it only happens about 30% of the time. Do you have any idea that might keep this from happening?

Sorry, haven't a clue as to what you mean. Will need some pictures to look at. You'd be the first that I know off to have problems with the braces.....

Hi Leo, I'm sorry for the long delay, but I've been ill and haven't been messing with the printer much lately. I'll post pictures later tonight or tomorrow. I think part of the issue is the brace for my SN-04 autolevel sensor. There just isn't a lot of clearance right there when it is homed.


Glad you're doing well again.

Hello Leo, first of all, thank you very much and congratulations for your designs, it is incledible how useful they are.
I have the top brackets installed, and I want to print 200mm tall figures, I'm going to install the Hulk braces. Would you recommend installing only the Hulk Braces? I mean, it would seem that the Hulk Braces would work better without the screw, which may have some slack. regards

Nice to read.

If you have the brackets installed then I'd recommend you leave them mounted and print the Hulk braces designed for use with them. The screw is only there for keeping the Hulk brace from sliding towards the front (Y axis). The top screws have nothing to do with any slack.

Hi Leo, sorry very noob question, how do i attach this to my acrylic frame? do i use existing screw holes? or do i need to drill new holes in the stock frame?

super looking design BTW! thanks.

For the frame only use existing screws. No need to make any holes.

excellent, i will print tonight Leo, fingers crossed. thank you :)

Hello first of all, thx for sharing this "beast", i decided to print it but i want to know if you recommend it with the top brackets or without it.


the top brackets are NOT needed with the "Hulk" braces if you don't already have them.

Ok thank you, then let's print! :D

After reading so many positive comments, i decided to print this, and i was very suprised This works so well, didn't expect that level of stiffness, from this frame. I would say that this is 3rd must have upgrade for a8, after belt tensioners, and beter filament cooling.


You will also notice over time that you will no longer have to occasionally re-tighten all the screws on the printer.

Thanks for sharing.
I have printed this with PLA and work great,till i don't upgrade enclosure to print ABS.
Now when print with ABS,Hulk frame brace is melted.
My question is why you say "Only PLA is recommended for these braces"


You made an enclosure and now the frames melted because you printed them in PLA. Did I understand that correct?

Edit: I've changed the text. I don't know why I recommended PLA only at that time.

You commented on this earlier. You said use PLA because it has a higher tensile strength and because they are so long the would be easier to print in PLA.

Thanks! Looks like I having memory lapses ;-)

Yep PLA is melted,now i am printing in ABS i will post update.

Hello. I am having an issue printing the M3 nut socket on the top arm. My A8 seems to struggle at printing the thin wall after the M3 socket show in the pictures. The orange arm was printed at faster settings. The copper arm was printed with lower speeds and acceleration. I can say that the result has improved, but the filament looks kind of stringy and under extruded in that area. I have issued many reprints; all failed in that section. Any help I would greatly appreciate. Thank-you.

Print it with support, it will build support under the space to be able to print the top

Great looking brace. But how do you know how tight to adjust the tension screws? I have a habit of just going nuts. At the moment I've just given them a gentle nip.
Took 5.5 hours to print all four sections, at your suggested settings. Lovely.
I'm going to print the front and rear mounts next.

You tighten the screw until the top brace arm no longer wiggles. If you tighten the brace with to much force you my crack the acrylic frame!

Serious recommendation: Remove the the cups you mounted on the threaded shaft which must move freely! A fixed threaded shaft will counteract with the guidance shaft which will reduce quality in the print.

okay that's a fair recommendation. But the guide holes in the acrylic frame above the lead screws are too high (or the lead screws too short) by about 8mm. This enables the lead screw to sway slightly? Is that ok? I was slightly concerned about how much friction they apply to the lead screws.

The lead screws are placed 1mm under the acrylic part where the hole is. The hole is only there to make it possible to mount the lead screws to the coupler. The threaded screw shafts can sway. That has no effect on the quality of the print.

I've found that if i do that, it creates a gap between the top of the motor shaft, and the bottom of the lead screw. This then causes the aluminium spiral type connector to compress under the weight of the x axis carriage assembly, causing inaccuracy on that axis. To prevent this, i have allowed the lead screw to fall under gravity until it stops on top of the motor shaft, then nipped up the grub screws. The down side to this, is that the lead screw is then 8 mm below the top acrylic support.

Sorry for coming one month late to the party, but I think it is important (and not known) that it is recommended to loose the four set screws of each Z axis motor links (you can see 2 in the first picture). Then tighten them while keeping an empty gap between the motor shaft and the spiral, checking that the spiral's top comes just over the top hole (second picture).

This is exactly how not to do it! The hole has only one purpose and that is for you to be able to mount the threaded screw on to the coupler.
When the build is complete the top of the threaded screw must just be under the hole (about 1mm) so it can move freely. It is very important that the threaded screw not touch any parts of the acrylic frame! The top of the thread screw may wobble which has absolutely no influence on print quality.

In the interests of reducing overall vibration, I stuck bearings on the top of the threaded screw. I knew when I did it the difference would be unnoticable in terms of print quality, but it did reduce noise a little. The threaded screw moves completely freely (since it's 'held' inside a bearing) but can no longer vibrate against the inner sides of the acrylic.

You need to set the threaded screw below (-1mm) the acrylic hole so that it cannot touch the frame. They need to be free of movement.
You also don't want to add more mass to the top of the threaded screw. That will only cause more unwanted forces on the top portion of the threaded screws.

Eh, there's nothing attached to the threaded screws, my modification slots into the gap between the rod and the acrylic and stops the rod knocking during rotation.

Well, I guess I'll have to do a bit of research... I read about doing "my" way in different places, and nobody said anything against it.
I see you have been in the scene quite longer than many of us, so time for me to dig into this. Thanks!

Feel free to ask any questions on the matter.

Not a 100% exact fit on my frame but I think that was the fault of my print. Nevertheless added a good amount of rigidity. Thank you! Might print the rear braces and redo the upper arms. Looks like it might be even more stable.

I can't see what's wrong?

Sorry I didn't add pictures of what I was talking about because it may have been partly a printing issue and partly due to variances in the parts we get from Anet. These areas were what I was talking about.

what are de function of the plates? and where are they located

Please read the "Summary".

Comments deleted.

Just a quick thank you, printed off the Hulk and the other braces and installed them on my Anet A8 and they really do make that top end so much more solid. Many thanks.

You are welcome.

Which file is the top rear anchors?

Anet A8 Brackets to Reduce X-Axis Motion
by Leo_N

I am a little bit confused on the bottom support design...
Why the hole for the bolt is not a through hole?

Because it makes for a cleaner 1 layer print.

I see... thx :D
will start printing it tmr

I will thank you in advance, i am going to print this, this weekend.
When I use the Hulk frame, is the the Anti Z Wobbel still necessary / prefferable or I can do without it?
Anti Z Wobble for Anet A8 by saschai => https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1858435

Anti Z Wobble for Anet A8
by saschai

The rule of thumb is not to try to stabilise that screw bar because it needs to be free floating :)

I want to thank you so much for this! Such a huge improvement in the higher layers!

You're welcome.

Zero issues

Works and fits perfectly!!


Do u think this would work for my tronxy p802e

Any chance this would work on the tronxy version of this printer?

First, let me give you a BIG thank you as I printed lot of your ideas and design so far, to upgrade my printer.

Unfortunately, I have a problem with the left bottom support, as the x motor is, not just touching, but is really against the piece.
No way I can correct it.
I installed a dampener on my motor, and I have to admin that I cannot remember if it as also the same without the dampener.

I have to admin that after installing the piece, and then after putting the dampener, I never checked.
So I cannot say what was the situation before all those changes. Carefully looking at, I don't think the dampener is the problem.
But this is really the motor that is touching strong against the piece.

Any idea ? I plan to simplex "cut" all the left border of the piece to make room....

PS : well... seems like tis is really due to the dampener which move a little bit the motor.. I'm stuck..

Under normal circumstances you should have no issues at all if the printer is built stock.

Thank you for your quick answer.
And I confirm, as I said in ma last comment, that this is due to the dampener on the motor: when putting the belt unser tension the motor goes against the frame.
When removing the dampener your frame is Perfect.

I know you have done another piece for the X motor mount carriage. Do you think it would be possible for you to provide me this piece, by putting the motore a few milimeters away of the frame? If so I will post a comment on the mount carriage piece.

Thanks in advance for your support (if it is possible)

I will look at it. How many mm exactly?

Thanks for designing and sharing this!

I printed these and when i installed them, i found these issues.

  1. I assembled the top and the bottom and after snapping the top part of the brace to the frame, when i tried to fit the bottom part, it was not easy. I really had to force it from the outside in to fit the bottom part. According to your instructions, it should go in easy. As far i can see, i have not broke the acrylic frame yet, so there is still some hope of fitting the brace properly :)
  2. Also in the top part, there is a 1mm gap on the inside and almost 2 mm gap on the outside between the brace and the vertical acrylic frame. Can you please see the attached pictures. I guess ideally, there should not be any gap between the brace and the frame, so that the frame is stiff and reduce/eliminate wobble. I have this problem on both the left and right sides. The frame printed perfectly as far as i can see, there is no warp or anything. So i dont know why it doesnt fit snugly.
  3. You have also mentioned that we need to use the extra plates in the bottom part. I am not exactly sure where exactly it goes. Is it on the inside top part of the bottom part, in between the inside and top of the acrylic frame?

I have read all the comments here to see if any of it could help, but i have not been able to find anything that helps Hence, can you kindly help with the above. Thanks!

When I design my parts the dimensions are 1 to 1 meaning there are no tolerances. For the parts ti fit correctly you will need a well calibrated printer and good quality filament. If a part does not fit on a certain printer then one would have to scale the object.

  1. As mentioned the parts should snap in but not with a lot of force.
  2. However you could have shrinkage with the filament you are using.
  3. The plates should help in your case. Simply place the appropriate plate inside the compartment of the bottom support where the screw is used to fasten the top arm. The lower part of the top arm should be resting on the plate.

Hope this helps.

why didnt you design it so the holes went the whole way through on the bases?

Sorry, I'm not quite understanding your question. Which holes do you mean?

Noob here wondering why the description says to use PLA only. Just bought some green ABS and this was going to be my first ABS print.

It's only my recommendation. PLA has higher tensile strength and for these long parts will also be easier to print.

You can certainly give ABS a try.

I had no problems printing this and found it easy to install. It works very well to stiffen the top of the printer. I found that once installed the tensioning screws required minimal tightening before the frame became rigid, great design thanks for sharing.

Glad to read. Thanks.

The top support doesn't seem to fit on my anet. Its a few mm short.

Try using the plates.

someone knows is this design compatible with Tronxy X8?
Thank you.

Super stiff. Love it!

Comments deleted.

is it possible to use with the electronic case?

Have i got to print everything that's on this file? i want the whole setup but dont understand it to be honest. can some help me please? I have already printed the

Hulk left top arm leo n
and the right version.

First question I have for you is did you already print and install these? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1872162

If you did not (which are not needed if you are installing the Hulk braces) you will want to print the following parts:

  • Hulk_Right_Top_Arm_Leo_N.stl
  • Hulk_Left_Top_Arm_Leo_N.stl
  • Hulk_Right_Bottom_Support_Leo_N.stl
  • Hulk_Left_Bottom_Support_Leo_N.stl
Anet A8 Brackets to Reduce X-Axis Motion
by Leo_N

The best brace for the Anet A8! Thank You!

Thank you. Enjoy.

Hi Leo,

Thanks for designing this great brace. I purchased a Anet A8 from eBay in December 2017.

The vertical braces are 15mm to short.
The bottom braces fit perfectly though.

Post some pictures.

It looks like there are different Anet A8, and your project is for an older model. My printer is 4 cm taller than yours, considering the gap from the top of the brace to the horizontal part of the chassis.
Unfortunately, I printed the supports after the long parts, and I discovered the discrepancy only after the finished print.
THREE days of hi-res, low-speed printing and a shovel of filaments wasted, DOH!

Why do people not use their brains / some common sense to figure things out!?

Just one look at the picture told me YOU DON'T HAVE AN ANET A8!

I dunno about my poor brain, but I have "ANET A8" written on the invoice, on the box where it was shipped and on the "instruction" sheet that I found inside the box. Is it too little to assume it is an Anet A8?

Well sir, if you believe you purchased an Anet A8 then so be it. Good day.

Gosh man, such a shame you turned out to be such a douchebag ;/

How could I verify it is NOT an Anet A8?

This is where common sense comes to play.

First thing would be to go to the Anet website and compare...

Pictures superimpose screw-to-screw, rod-to-rod, label-to-label. The ONLY difference is WHITE Z-axis supports, mine being black.
My idea is that as it happens over and over again with the sizes of the power supply box the printers may have small lot-to-lot differences, sometimes even improvements, which are not reported in documentation. Anet already changed A8 specs "on the fly" in the past, this same forum is full of "variations on A8 Theme". Low-end DIY printers are NOT a world where you can demand strict industrial standards - they are beautiful for this, by the way.
No reason to turn aggressive or insulting, I think.
Peace! and thanks for counseling.

Well, the brain (and eyes) failed... sadly.

This is what you purchased e.g.: https://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_293804.html

And what did YOU purchase? I took the liberty of comparing your picture to the official Anet A8 taken from their website, scaling (uniformly) the pictures to superimpose display size and Z-rods in order to take in consideration the dimension LESS likely to differ.
As you can see, your model is some cm shorter. It happens...:-D

Man, you bought a Tronxy, its an A8 clone

No problem, it means they sold me a clone of a clone of a good printer. No need to speculate on the state of someone's brain, I had no means to know. As I said, I have "Anet" written wherever it is possible to write something. On another side, it is also true that Chinese manufacturers often modify details even from lot to lot of the same models, so mine was not such a farfetched perplexity.

I'm just shaking my head.... you poor soul... Bye :-)

Yo Leo your attitude isn't helping anyone. You could have handled that so much better. Honestly even if you have something constructive to say, don't say it if you're going to be an ass.

I disagree with your statement and I stand by my reaction.
Bottom line: This is my hard work which I have shared with all. Show respect and you will get respect. Show disrespect and live with the consequences.
Nothing more to add on my part.

Good job Leo, these people pay nothing for you hard work and expect you to spoonfeed hundreds of people with free customer service and they bite when you get slightly negative. BUYER BEWARE; OH WAIT you didn't pay a thing to download this! Take measurements first and compare to STL, calibrate printer.... READ DESCRIPTION. That print looks like GARBAGE anyway, you have a LOT more going on to work out before you need to worry about high Z axis wobble. Why are the sides so wavy LOL
This is not an easy hobby and even moreso with a cheap anet a8

I have to agree with BrainFungus. Your designs are great, but there wasn't really any reason to have so much attitude in this chain of comments. I don't see how albertonencioni showed disrespect.

damn... doode was simply mistaken on his printer and you had to treat him like a moron... great job man... your work speaks for itself but your attitude sucks.

Comments deleted.

Really great work. Fit and finish are excellent. My printer is very happy.
Thanks for taking the time Leo, have a beer on me.

Thank you. You are one of the extremely few who show their appreciation by giving a small donation!

For some reason i cant print it (it doesnt fit on build plate). Am i doing anything wrong?

Make sure you have your slicer set to 220x220x240 and place it diagonally.

I don´t know if i have something wrong on Cura settings but I'm not able to print it...Doesn´t fit on my plate!! I had put settings for a Prusa i3. Any suggestion of what I'm doing wrong?? Thanks!

Great design, fits perfectly. Even though I managed to print one arm somewhat warped (nothing with design, just mu print-fu is too weak) i still managed to make it work. And work it does.
Thanks for sharing!

Do you think you could modify the left and right bottom brackets so that they both had screw attachments for the outside slot on the existing A8 frame, and make the attachment long enough so that i don't need to disassemble the A8 to install the screw? Thanks.

Has anyone gotten this to fit a Tronxy p802m either the way it is or by scaling the parts?

Very clever design! Thanks!

"Hulk" Frame Brace for the Anet A8
by osadchy

how am i supposed to tighten it? all you say is don't over tighten but i have no idea what that is.

Sorry just read all your description! Told you i was a newbie

I have just started printing your frame and i have noticed there are 2 top legs which one do i need to print?

Does it actually use any of the original M3 holes/nuts in the frame itself? If not I'd rather use the 4/40 screw/nuts I have on hand, they're about the same diameter size.

I don't remember however you can use any suitable screw/nut if you wish to.

I noticed that you put "Supports: Yes" in the Print Setting, but I can't really tell where they're needed.

Should I put them like in picture?

That is correct.

Ok, thanks! Awesome job btw, I'll post a picture once I've finished

Is this compatible with the tronxy xy-100?

Thanks, perfect thing!

I don't know the role of the measuring plates, so I didn't print them :-)

I have just printed it, fits perfect!

Any chance for a clean version without any writing?

nice stuff but why did u Update 2017.07.22?
this 2 mm are missing on my printer. i have a gap between the top end of the shaft part and the acryl

Sadly I was forced to reduce the height because too many people were over tightening the braces.
I have included plates (1mm, 1.5mm and 2mm in height)in the file section. Print what is best for you and place inside the bottom supports for
height adjustment. Let me know how it works for you.

I agree with @SoulOfNoob

Very confused until I read this comment. No mention of them in the description currently.

You should include this in the description. I was extremely confused by those files.

Is there any chance you can re add the files with the 2mm longer lowers?

Awesome! Simply awesome. Beautiful, well thought out design. Makes my A8 much sturdier. As a relatively new Anet owner this was my first major structural upgrade. Everything fit together perfectly. Kudos to Leo.

One suggestion to other noobs like me who use Cura: When you print the two bottom sections you need to print supports as "Everywhere." When you print the two top sections you need to print supports as "Touching Buildplate." If you print the top section supports as Everywhere (like I did) Cura will fill in the nut recess and the screw hole with support material that cannot be dug out without destroying the part.

Hi Leo,
I would like to use this brackets and this case( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2294191 ) at the same time, but the box doesn't fit because of the left bottom support, do you have the source files to modify it? What design program do you use?

Thank you very much.

Anet A8 Electronics Case
by Lindkj

any anet a6 owner knows if this design fit the a6? Thanks!

The Anet A6 doesn't need this mod as it has a stable frame by design.

Finished them today. Look nice and strong.

A few things:

  • You mention using 2 washers, yet in the description you mentioned a washer for the adjustment nut, and a washer for the screw which holds the bottom in place. For both sides this makes 4 in total instead of 4 I think?

I now get some wobble between the front and back, is something too tight then?

Washers are meant for the adjustment screw. The other washer is meant as an option.

Yes, it's way too tight.

Hi Leo, at first let me thank you for great design. I have printed it an installed it, but have small problem with left support. Can you please try to look on it? I put description and pictures into "I Made One". Thnx

You are absolutely fine with the how it is mounted.

Thanks for answer. It has really make the frame much stronger. I was just suprised, that left and right side looks slightly different.

Thank you so much for this mod. It not only eliminated wobble but it squared out the frame and removed the skew in my prints.

My X motor is still rubbing against the bottom bracket but I suspect that it's because I printed it warped.

Hi there!
Which autolevel are you using?

LJ12A3-4-Z / BX DC 6-36V 300mA NPN NO 4 mm Inductive Sensor

I find the 18 variant much better.

It is more sensible than the 12.

Tests have shown the 12mm version is more accurate.

I don't understand your comment. Based on the datasheet:
Detection distance 4mm

Detection distance 8mm

What tests are you referencing? If you plan to use glass over the heated bed for example the 18A3 is definetly the way to go.
Do you have a link or a reference to the tests? Maybe I understand the problem wrong on my side.


The distance of each sensor is a feature and has nothing to do with precision (sensible).
Accuracy is measured when you take the sensor and make several measurements. The lower the average measured distance means the more precise the sensor is. The LJ12A3-8-Z/BX is more accurate which is very important for our purpose.
Of course if you use glass then you will need a sensor with 8mm distance but the OP asked for the best sensor.


  • Can you please tell me what parameter from the data sheet describe the "precision" you are talking about? Or do you have a good place to take those readings?

@AVZ: I suggest you to take a look to this study..it is the only one I was able to find on this with some interesting results:

@Leo_N: scroll the video at the 09:22...



the video confirms my results. The video results show the differences are small so I guess it really doesn't matter which one you pick.

Happy printing.


Hi, Leo, seems like you are a legend in designing frame brackets for A8 :D

I have a problem, bottom left part is popping off and it's popping more if I add the top part, are you sure that it does not need any screws?
There is one more posibility, that I am a dumb and I printed it with some additional first layer, becouse the holes exist, but are closed by few first layers.

The bottom should not be popping off. Also by adding the top part this shouldn't be happening.
Except for one screw on each side the rest is optional. The holes are closed for esthetics, cleaner print results. You can easily remove the first layer by using a small sharp knife.

No actually, ther are some layers on the bottom of the screw holes. Should I drill them ?

Yes, you can drill them if you like. Look at my pictures where I used screws.

Thanks for help :)

A couple of questions:

  • you say that your "Anet A8 Brackets to Reduce X-Axis Motion" are not necessary but do they add rigidity with the hulk brackets installed? (long story but my frame in cracked and repaired in that area and I don't want to take it apart multiple times)
  • How do you have your extruder wiring run (looks like it goes under the gantry) that it doesn't interfere with prints close to the limits of the machine.

Thanks! I've had this A8 for just over 2 weeks (first 3d printer) and I keep changing things ;-)

The Hulk braces are designed to be used without the brackets for the intended frame stiffness.
However if the braces are already installed you have the advantage of fixating the hulk braces via the screws for additional secured mounting options.
If you have cracked frame pieces then be very careful when mounting the Hulk braces. You can easily put a lot of stress on the acrylic frame if they are over tightened.

On my printer the it is mounted in such a way that the cable will end up between the extruder and LCD display making it possible to print at full height.

I'm not sure if it's been said before, but the "X" motor comes into slight contact with the bottom brace mount when resting in the "Z" home position. The friction causes the motor to skip, and gives the printer an erroneous "Z" height when the printer is set to home all. My printer may have printed the piece too large, but I figured I would let you know anyways.

Thank you Leo_N for creating this Hulk design, I've tested it on my Anet A8 and it's the best solution.

I'm happy to read you find it very useful.

Does this brace cover where the Z endstop should be? If so where is it located in the pictures and how is it attached? Thanks

No, you can use the Z endstop as desired. The lower supports in the picture are my first version and are different compared to the downloadable version.

Just printed the right side and did a test fit, the frame starts to bend even before i can get the screw in. Measured the right top bart and its 215mm tall just like in tinkercad when i open the stl, measurements for the bottom part are also spot on. The distance beween the acrylic bit the bottom sits on and the top bit that has the lcd mounted to it is 234mm just got my printer last week so maybe the measurements differs from yours.

I modified the bottom support files today. Those should work better on your printer.

Just did a test fit of the right side and it fits much better now

Good to read. Don't tighten the brace too much, only so much that the upper arm won't wiggle.

Hi! I'm a newbie on this and have just printed out these braces. When I try to install them to my Anet a8 there is a lot of force to the frame before I even have started to use the screws. I use 20mm long screws and they are barerly reaching the nuts. The lower parts are shaping in place nicely. The upper parts horizontal plane is leaning inwards and my conclusion is that they are to long for my frame. Can that be how it is or do I miss something?
Best regards
/ Charlie

Hi Charlie,

it's best for me if you could make some pictures. Send them to leo@nutz.de

I'm about to. If you're wondering if it will clear the case, most likely it won't. I had some z braces that ended up warping from being left in my car, and on those, I had to cut into the side of the case and the door just a little bit. Not a big deal but they did clear the motherboard as I'm assuming these "hulk" braces will.

please post back when you are done. I am also wondering if those two can work together.

Just installed them. They fit, but it pushes the side of the box a bit, a couple trims of the hex pattern and it will bend properly. I'll send you a pic of it here in a second.

Hello! I'm interested by the pictures too as I 'my about to print this wonderful upgrade and I've this case installed already. Thanks

Can't get it to install it correctly. It mess with the threaded rods bending it. https://imgur.com/gallery/duZZH

Then I can only assume that you have tightened it too much.
Completely loosen the screws and check if the frame returns to it previous state. Report back.

Even with completely loosen screws :/

OK, that's interesting! Is it possible that the parts printed larger than the should have? I will post a image later in the day with some dimensions for you to compare with.

I think that are the same size. Something weir that I've noticed is that when I removed teh braces the problem with the rods it was still there. Now I have them instaled ignoring the "bending" of the rod and looks like everythings works well.

Just at note after looking at your picture again:
The two threaded rods do not have to be centered to the hole! The threaded rods can wobble when they rotate because that has NO influence on the print (no matter what you read in forums).

Well, thank you. Your model fixed almost all the ghosting!

OK, so I printed my first calibration cube with the HULK Frame Brace installed and it looks awesome. The ghosting is completely gone. I highly recommend this mod!

My x motor is coming down on the left side bracket. I moved the screw which helped but it's still hitting the bracket. Any suggestions?

Does it touch when the screw is completely loose and the upper arm easily moveable so no pressure is being put on the bottom support part?
Does it touch after you removed the upper arm with only the lower support mounted?
Is the lower support mounted straight and flush on the acrylic piece?

I've just ft these braces and found that if I tighten them at all it introduces wobble into my Y axis. I had to loosen the braces right off and redo all the M8 nuts on the Y axis threaded rods to get it sitting solidly level again. On subsequently attempting to tighten the braces, I find any additional tension introduced into the system causes the feet of the front piece to lift off my workbench (again introducing wobble to the Y axis). Starting to get the feeling my printer was doing pretty well without any additional bracing! I think I may need to add Y axis braces before I can actually tighten my hulk braces..

If you have any tension then you have over tightened the braces.
When you install them without the screws the upper arms should be "loose". Now turn the screws AND NO MORE until the upper arms are no longer loose and the upper portion of your frame can no longer move in x-axis direction. Any further turns on the screws will cause tension on the frame which is not necessary and you don't want!

Of course the assumption is that the parts you printed came out in the quality and tolerance as designed.

The upper arms are installed 'loose', the screws are maybe half a turn into the nuts and I even have a small gap between the upper arms' top edges and the bottom of the top piece of the acrylic frame. If I tighten them at all I get the Y wobbly I talked about.

When you talk about the top piece of the frame moving in the x axis, do you mean left to right or front to back sort of motion? I've never noticed any of either with my build?

If you turn the screws and your printer starts to wobble on it's Y axis then in my opinion you are over tightening the braces.

The higher you print the more the motion effect comes into play.
That is why the braces are needed to eliminate the upper motion of the printer in x-axis (left to right and vise versa).
This is one of the drawbacks of the A8. The A6 doesn't have the problem due to a different frame design.

Ok so I've got the braces only tightened so far as they will go without introducing Y wobble, which is only about a single turn of the screw past the nut. The top edge of the top arm doesn't seem flush with the bottom edge of the acrylic (on the inside of the uprights anyway), is that normal?

I've not needed to print anything taller than 60mm so far, so maybe that's why I've not seen any x wobble yet.

Because our printers have such bad production tolerances having a gap is certainly possible. But that is why these come with the screws so to be flexible and accommodate each differently setup printer. The important thing is that the inside tabs lean against the acrylic parts.

Indeed they do. Thank you for all your help today!

Fantastic design.. Works perfectly with my March 2017 vintage Anet A8.

Note to others printing. Make absolutely sure the adjustment screw on the left side does not stick out past the frame or it will catch the stepper motor and jam the z-axis. Also note you might need to orient your x axis limit switch cable so there is no risk of it getting pinched. I used one of the sticky zip-tie holders and a zip tie to keep the cable where I want it.

I was afraid that was going to happen. My first versions I uploaded didn't have a hole at that end simply for that reason. But some users wanted a hole so I added it.
I have now updated the files again and removed the holes on both supports.

Upper brace doesn't fit lower bracket. At least 4mm off. What am I mssing?

Think I figured it out. Needed to print other file. Guessing the files that say 'wBracket' are used if u don't use the bracket. That's my only guess right now.

Why are you guessing? It's all described in plain English in the "Summary"!

Leo, If Im starting to reinforce the frame, should I just use this brace without the X brackets or print the brackets too? If so, could we get the brackets with the mounting hole in them?

The brackets are not needed for use with the Hulk braces. Please select the correct files accordingly.

Hi Leo, I just printed and installed these, everything fits pretty well but i can tighten both screws all the way without much tightening. Is that how it's supposed to be?

No, it's not intended to be all the way unless you have a seriously distorted frame.

Hi Leo,

I made this brace and it worked well to stabilize the frame, very well. However for me like someone else mentioned, for what ever reason there was no gap between the bottom support and the x-carriage stepper motor. I am wondering if it is because I have a newer A8, just received about a month ago and maybe it's slight different than yours. I thought I could sand off the excess but once the brace is tightened it sticks out nearly one full mm beyond the motor so I'm not sure sanding it the way to go in this case. Any suggestions?

I'm in the same place. My A8 is ~Oct.16. Had a little trouble with the dimensionson the right hand side, but the inside of that piece is 90.1 (frame measures 90.5), Like this, the X-stepper just has clearance when the left lower is in place, but as soon as I assemble the full brace, I loose the clearance. I can home Z, but its not usable like this. Printed it last night, and not had a chance to trim down the part (except cleaning the corners with a knife). The offending side doesn't seem structural, so I'll try filling it off - but I worry the force of this bracket is removing the clearance. Obviously, if the right-hand bracket is tightened more, the clearance for the stepper should increase.
I'm sure there is a fix, i'll keep you informed with my progress, but it won't be till the weekend. My gut feel is that the design of the printer isn't changed, and we're just unlucky with tolerances.

New file uploaded. Please test.

That looks like a fairly close match to what I ended up with after reworking my part. The very top can maybe be tapered to avoid the risk of a jam - together with a slight taper all the way up.. The root cause might be that the tolerances of the other parts all together puts just a little too much pressure all round, and i suspect the bottom fixing ends up rotating a little anti-clockwise. I wonder if this can be avoided by making the adjustment slots in the bottom support parts slope down slightly (so the adjustment range is increased by a couple of mm). With warping and rough edges, parts this size are tricky - especially if we didn't yet make 150mm calibration parts...

Thanks for the effort you're putting in to help us perfect our printers as well as your own!

That is very interesting! It means there is hardly any room between the stepper motor and the acrylic frame part!
Mine has ca. 2.0mm space. The lower Hulk support piece wall is 0.80mm thick which leaves ca 1.2mm on my frame.

However, I have a solution and have updated the lower left support .stl file. Please test.

Hello Leo,

I printed and tested the new version. It still does not work perfectly. When first installed, there is an adequate gap to allow the x-carriage to move freely up and down. Once it is tightened however, the force applied by the brace pushes the bottom support outward and into the x-carriages path. Here is a picture of exactly what I see:


Now I see what is going on. You are WAY over tightening the brace and risking frame damage!!!!

Loosen both sides of the brace completely. On one side slowly turn the screw until you can feel that the top arm isn't loose and the top frame isn't moving when giving it light pushes in x-axis. Do the same on the other side.

Very LITTLE support force is needed for the braces to function properly so be careful how much you turn the screws!

I just made One and very effective together with your old braces :)

But the thin parts at the lower one was very fragile, around the screw holes and at the very bottom around the frame.

Printed in PLA that I have temp calibrated and with 1.2mm shell.

I've just updated all files and addressed the area around the holes. Seems some printers can't handle that portion like mine can.

Walls at the very bottom can't be made any thicker else the stepper motor will collide with the support piece.
This is not an issue with the well working printer.

It should be noted that the walls should be printed with 0.8mm thickness.

I also just made this last weekend. ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2108158 )
Anyhow good work (just a little to late for me ;) ), thanks for sharing.

Anet A8 frame stabilizer anti wobble z-axis mod
by Tavero

same Problem :(( i think we have to recalibrate our Printers but not with calibration cube but with bigger sized calibration things

I've changed the lower left part for those having the problem: I recommend downloading and printing it.

Ohh cool will try it later today. Thank you very much leo your creations are very very good. Could you tell me please which slicer you are using?

Repetier-Host v2.0.1 (Cura)

ok printed your updated bottom left part but also doesn't fit :( checked my Printer calibration but all is fine. Also rotated the stepper Motor but nu luck

Need pictures now. Send it to leo@nutz.de

It should not be touching with at least 1mm of room. I really don't know why though.

One other thing. Be sure not to over tighten the brace! You could break your acrylic by doing so.

I'm realizing that all the makes that are made of your stand take the piece X-idler mount open, can this piece leave 1 mm more separation with respect to mine ?? My piece is closed as in the photo:
Sorry for my english, i use translator To be able to understand us.

Thanx for all.

Send me your email to leo@nutz.de,

I've modified it to suite your needs.

I will see if can come up with a solution.

Umm... No offense, but shouldn't it be, well.... Green?


My excuse..... didn't have any at hand :-D

The outer faces on the bottom pieces could be somewhat thicker. They brake quite easily. Especially by the hole.

I would need pliers to break the walls. Are you sure your layers are having good adhesion?

adhesion is fine.

Though the walls are 0.8mm thick rather than 1mm

Perhaps the slicer is rounding down to multiples of nozzle size. 0.4mm nozzle.

This is what i get for changing to repetier 2.0.1

Hmmmm... with Repetier 2.0.1 and the settings I'm using it is showing 1mm width.

Mine are printed with Repetier 1.6.2 and they measure 1mm.

However, even with 0.8mm the walls should not be breaking.

Damit, i already made this one! :(

Anet A8 Ultimate Frame Stabilizer - HEX REMIX
by AVall20

Same. Did you ever switch over or just kept them? I've been thinking about switching to these

I kept them since they are working just fine.

Just printed the left bottom support and it seems there's no allowance for the standard z-limit switch. Looks like I'll need to print an alternative setup for my z-limit before I can install this. Any recommendations? The whole setup looks great though. Really clever design. I'm looking forward to getting it finished and installed. Thanks.

I don't have the Z-stop installed since I'm using a proximity sensor. But you are right. The option should be made available.
I'll make changes to accommodate the Z-stop later today.

In the mean time you might just want to cut some long slots to the part starting where the holes are.

I've made a slight update to the file. You can now cut the slots by using a sharp knife. I didn't want to open them up because then I would weaken the part for those not using a Z-stop.