MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.

Download Now


Parametric Hinge

by rohingosling Mar 19, 2017
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

Could you add even number of knuckles and add thickness of the leaves? Thanks.

Hi, is this hinge really loose or is it tight enough so I can leave the movement in place as I move it? Or is it floppy


It depends on a number of factors.

If you configure the model to print-in-place, with a built in pin, then the parameter that will affect mobility of the joint the most will be the component clearance. You can find the component clearance setting under "hinge-parameters" in the Customizer.
While the material you use, nozzle size, print speed and temperature all affect the mobility of the joint, typically, component clearances of 0.5mm or above will be loose and floppy. And anything from 0.4mm or less will be stiffer. By the time you get down to 0.2mm you may even have trouble freeing the joint at all.

If you configure the model to be a two part assembly, where you will use your own pin, like a dowel, or nail, or something, then again the component clearance setting has the greatest impact, but relative to what ever diameter pin you use.

Home that helps.

Warum Scad?...wieso nicht als STL..schade so für mich nicht nutzbar

My German is a bit rusty. If I understand correctly, are you asking why I used SCAD instead of making fixed STL models?

If that is the question, then then the answer is;

  • This is a parametric model, as apposed to a normal 'fixed' model.
  • In Thingiverse, 'fixed' models are offered as STL files by default, and parametric models are offered as SCAD files by default.

Unlike regular fixed models, parametric models are designed to be customized, either through the Thingiverse Customizer, or directly through Open SCAD.

To edit the model's parameters using the Thingiverse Customizer, click on the "Open in Customizer" button above, near the bottom right corner of the pictures, under the section "Thing Apps Enabled".

To edit the SCAD file directly, download and install Open SCAD. Open the file in Open SCAD, and the model parameters can be found in the source code under the "Thingiverse Parameters." section, near the top of the source code file, just under the constants section.

But the easiest, is to just edit the model using the Thingiverse Customizer ( "Open in Customizer" button ).

Am I the only one who cannot start the customizer for this thing on Thinigverse?

I just tried now, and the customizer opened okay. Maybe Thingiverse was doing maintenance or something.
If the problem persists, give Thingiverse a shout to see if they have any ideas. Alternatively, download the .scad file, and open it directly in OpenSCAD. OpenSCAD works better than the Thingiverse customizer anyway. Plus it has a code editor, in the event that you'd want to make your own modifications to the code.

Not only a wonderful artifact but also a beautiful piece of code: well written like a pro. Congrats!

Thank you. Much appreciated.

Comments deleted.

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Thank you kindly.

Comments deleted.

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App
Comments deleted.

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App
Comments deleted.

This hinge was almost perfect for my use. I want to have the fastener countersink holes on the other side, so I added a parameter up at the top:

  fastener_on_other_side = 1;

and down in the leaf() module where the fastener holes are cut I changed the if() to read:

            if ( m_fasteners_enabled )
                translate([0, 0, (fastener_on_other_side ? -leaf_gauge : 0)])
                rotate([(fastener_on_other_side ? 180 : 0), 0, 0])
                tool_cutter_fastener_set ( m_fastener_count, m_fastener_column_count, 0 );

I don't know if that's the right place to do this, but it works for me. :) Thanks for a very handy parametric hinge. I'll probably use it a lot.

Thank you for your modification
I needed fasteners on different sides so I modified your code a bit further:

Line 210:
fastener_on_other_side_m = 1; //Fastener on the other side on male part
fastener_on_other_side_f = 0; //Fastener on the other side on female part

Line 386+:
if ( m_fasteners_enabled )
translate([0, 0, (((fastener_on_other_side_m && (gender==C_MALE)) || (fastener_on_other_side_f && (gender==C_FEMALE))) ? -leaf_gauge : 0)])
rotate([(((fastener_on_other_side_m && (gender==C_MALE)) || (fastener_on_other_side_f && (gender==C_FEMALE))) ? 180 : 0), 0, 0])
tool_cutter_fastener_set ( m_fastener_count, m_fastener_column_count, 0 );

The logic expression is a bit ugly but it works.

That's a good idea! The leaf() module seems like a logical place to put that.

It's a pleasure. Glad you find it useful.

Comments deleted.

Would this be able to hold up a real door if printed with regular PLA at 100% infill?

I'm going to hazard a guess, as say no. However, I don't 'actually' know. It would be interesting to try it out and see if it works.

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

It's a pleasure. Thank you.

Comments deleted.

It is currently failing to open in customizer. I tried Firefox and Chrome.

Hi, there is nothing wrong with the app.

It's the coding language: Ascii should be avoided and UTF8 is the language for customizer. So, as you see, some people don't have a problem, others do: depends where you live and what your standard language is. UTF8 does not recognize "x²" e.g. which means "x square". Instead the coder should use "x * x" and avoid other characters than the unicode set.

When in Customizer mouse over to the top right of the preview window and click "View Source".
In the window that pops up select all text, right click and hit "Copy".
Open a new Notepad file on your Windows PC and paste the copied text.
Save as "YourFileNameHere.scad" <- This creates an .scad file.
Go to: http://www.openscad.org/
Download SCAD for FREE and install.
Open SCAD, click "File" and "Open".
Browse to your newly created .scad file and open it.
In the right hand window you'll see the code that generates your object.
Anytime you edit anything in the code, be sure you mouse to the top of that window and click "Preview" or hit F5 on your keyboard.
If the object creator is nice, every parameter of your customizable model will have a clear comment as to what changing that parameter will do.
When your done customizing the model click "Export to STL" at the top of the window.

Enjoy your customized model.

Not my Text, found here:

Yup yup. Someone else also pointed this out to me as well. The Customizer stopped working properly around December last year. On April 11th and May 19th this year, fixes were applied, which included a change to only support UTF8. I didn't know that the Customizer was fixed on those dates, or that extended ASCII was no longer supported as part of the fixes. So when ever I checked in to see if the Customizer was working again, I just presumed it was still broken.

Never the less, now that it has been brought to my attention, I am busy going through all my SCAD models and removing all the extended ASCII. I updated the code for this hinge a few days ago. Busy updating all my other SCAD models over the next couple of days.

Thanks for pointing out the issue.

The Thingiverse Customizer is currently not working 100%. Thingiverse is busy working on the problem.

In the mean time, you can open and edit the .SCAD file directly in OpenSCAD.

I first thaught this was leading nowhere, but as a matter a fact it is really simple: just follow this procedure, because thingiverse customize doesn't work (something to do with the encoding: scad uses ASCII, and customizer UTF8, so there are charcters you used, which are not compatible with UTF8) e.g. the square ² is interpreted as superscript2


Great job !!

Excellent! Thanks for letting me know about that.
I'll go through and UTF8-arize the code over the week end.

Great project. Thanks for doing this. I will be printing out hinges for an enclosure I built for my printer this weekend. This is perfect!

Thanks, it is a pleasure. Glad you like it. Let me know how the hinges work out on the enclosure.

I guess you know that Thingiverse isn't functioning in regards to your app. Other than manually modifying the SCAD file, do you have an alternative to getting STLs generated?

Yup, the Thingiverse Customizer has been broken since about December or so. I understand that Thingiverse is busy working on fixing it. So hopefully we'll have it back at some point soon.

Nope, no other apps like Thingiverse Customizer, that I know of. However, the best way to work with parametric SCAD models, is actually directly in OpenSCAD on your local machine anyway. If an SCAD model has been written to integrate with the Thingiverse Customizer, then you should see all the user configurable parameters at the beginning of the file, formatted as the Thingiverse Customizer requires.

I try to comment my code as descriptively as possible, to make it easier for people to use my SCAD models, even if they don't know much about coding. In all of my parametric SCAD models, I structure the code in the same way. If you start at the top of the file and scroll down, the first code section will be a bunch of constants, which you'll want to just leave as they are. And then the second code segment from the top, commented as "Thingiverse Parameters", are all the public parameters that you would normally see in the Thingiverse Customizer. You can just adjust those public values in that second section directly, and press F5 to update the model in the 3D view. Once you get used to doing that, there is a good chance you may end up actually preferring to work with SCAD models in OpenSCAD.

That's what I'm doing (editing in openscad). I did see another thingiverse mention that the current upstream (beta/alpha) version of openscad can read the same parameters and present it. I'll do a test print of the default setup to see how my printer does - to understand limits of all the settings. Anyway - thanks for posting the scad file. It makes it really straight forward to use.

Comments deleted.

This is an incredible piece of work. Thank you.

It is a pleasure, thank you very much for the compliment.

Comments deleted.

Can't open in cura and doesn't open in customizer. moving on...No reason why you couldn't use the STL standard. Looked good but too much work when there are tons others out there...

  1. I can't give you any STL files, because it is a parametric model. Parametric models require the consumer to set the parameters, and then generate STL files based on the configured parameters.

  2. SCAD models 'are' the standard for parametric models on Thingiverse.

  3. You can't open SCAD models in slicing software like CURA. You can open SCAD models with SCAD supported CAD software, like OpenSCAD, or the Thingiverse Customizer.

  4. The Thingiverse Customizer hasn't worked for a few months. Content creators have no control over this. However, it is not a problem, because you can just open SCAD files in OpenSCAD directly, and set the parameters there.

  5. I'm not so sure there are tons of others though. I stand to be corrected, but at the time of this writing, I think this may be the only parametric hinge model on Thingiverse. I'd be keen to take a look at any others that you find though. Parametric models are more complex to create than static models. I'd be keen to see how other designers have implemented parametric hinges, if you can find any others.

Firstly, these are nice thank you but I don't know how can I use this file. Is there any stl file ?

Comments deleted.


This is a parametric model created in OpenSCAD. You can generate .STL files from the OpenSCAD model (.SCAD file), either through the Thingiverse Customizer, or directly through OpenSCAD.

Thingiverse Customizer
You can access the model and configure its public parameters through the Thingiverse Customizer. The Customizer link "Open in Customizer", can be found near the bottom of the menu to the right of the pictures.

Alternatively, if you have OpenSCAD installed on your local computer, you can just download the .SCAD file and open it directly in OpenSCAD. The public parameters may be found in the source code under the section commented as "// Thingiverse Parameters." Once you have configured the model the way you want it, you can export the model to an .STL file.

Using the Thingiverse Customizer is the easiest option. But opening and editing the model in OpenSCAD directly, gives you access to the full source code, and you can then modify the model even more that what is possible through the Thingiverse Customizer alone.

Something I forgot to mention, is that the Thingiverse Customizer is not working at the moment, for some reason. So until Thingiverse fix it, the best way to configure parametric SCAD models, would be to install OpenSCAD, and edit the .SCAD files directly in OpenSCAD.

The hinge printed well but i can't seem to get them to free up without breaking the model. Kind of a flawed concept. Any tips on how to break it loose without damaging?

What material are you using? I have been using PLA for all the samples in the pictures. About 90% of the ones I’ve printed with PLA have worked. About 10% snapped at the joints, so that does happen. I have not tried with ABS or any other materials stronger than PLA.

There are a few things you can try.

  1. Print with the highest resolution you can. I have got these hinges to work, and in some cases work strait off the build plate, using a 0.3mm nozzle, and a print resolution of (x,y = 0.3, z = 0.15).

  2. Try increase the component clearance. The tightest component clearance I’ve achieved during testing is 0.15mm. However, 0.3mm to 0.4mm tends to give more consistent results. Try printing samples with increasing component clearance in 0.1mm increments, until you find a component clearance that works. However, if it is not working by the time you get to a component clearance of 0.6mm, then the problem is probably print settings rather than component clearance. With my printer, I get working mechanical components consistently, with component clearance between 0.3mm and 0.4mm.

  3. Print at a low temperature. So far, I have only tested these hinges with PLA. I still need to test with ABS to find the print parameters that will work with ABS. But for PLA, I have gotten these hinges to print and work correctly at temperatures between 180 and 190 digress C. Anything higher, and the PLA tends to fuse the joints.

  4. Print slowly, around 4mm/s to 8mm/s, with a filament cooling fan at max speed. By printing slowly at a low temperature, with a filament cooling fan, you improve the printers bridging capability, which helps to ensure maximum clearance between components. Before printing these hinges in one step, you may want to try some bridge tests, to check that your printer is configured to comfortably handle bridge spans of at least 10mm without any drooping. If your printer config isn’t setup to handle at least 10mm spans without drooping, then the joints on these hinges will definitely lock up.

  5. If you are using PLA and printing in one step, try softening the hinge assembly a bit by leaving it in hot water for a about 30 seconds. I am not sure what the ideal temperature should be, as I have not gotten round to measuring yet. I generally fill a wash basing with hot water from the hot water tap. After about 30 seconds of soaking in the hot water, I take out the hinge and while it is still soft from the hot water, I gently attempt to manipulate the joint until it breaks free. For PLA, this works most (~90%) of the time. I have not tried this with ABS. If you are going to try with ABS, then perhaps soak the hinge assembly in ‘boiling’ water in a pot on the stove, and then, using gloves to protect your skin, attempt the same manipulation to free up the joint while is it still hot from boiling on the stove.

  6. Disable the one-piece pin. If all else fails, disable the one-piece pin, by setting the “Enable Pin” parameter to “No”. Now you can print out the male and female leaves independently, and use an external pin. You can use nails or index machine screws as pins in that case.

Your suggestion #5 sounds like a great idea for any moving print involving close tolerances. Can't wait to try it. Thanks

I always get a "forbidden" error in the customizer queue.
Did I miss something?

Customizer is completly broken! I have no idea why nobody is fixing it :/

Here is a possible workaround:

When in Customizer mouse over to the top right of the preview window and click "View Source".
In the window that pops up select all text, right click and hit "Copy".
Open a new Notepad file on your Windows PC and paste the copied text.
Save as "YourFileNameHere.scad" <- This creates an .scad file.
Go to: http://www.openscad.org/
Download SCAD for FREE and install.
Open SCAD, click "File" and "Open".
Browse to your newly created .scad file and open it.
In the right hand window you'll see the code that generates your object.
Anytime you edit anything in the code, be sure you mouse to the top of that window and click "Preview" or hit F5 on your keyboard.
If the object creator is nice, every parameter of your customizable model will have a clear comment as to what changing that parameter will do.
When your done customizing the model click "Export to STL" at the top of the window.

Enjoy your customized model.

Not my Text, found here:

hello rohingosling

I really don't get it why your reply is flagged for moderation?
I get the full message through mail notifcation.

The customizer is totally broken in my oppinion.
Even the devs said they know the issue, and it will be fixed the tuesday before christmas... (look at the app comments)
But they fixed nothing :(

I tried it with your "AllowCookies" Method.
Still broken, same error.

I tried it in InternetExplorer.
Still broken, same error.

I will now try it directly with OpenSCAD...

Thx for your response :)


And me neither. Have no idea why they flagged the comment. The comment saved fine first time. And then I edited it, to correct a spelling error, at which point it got flagged. Maybe they prefered my poor spelling.

Anyway, it will take too long to write it all out again, so I'm just going to wait until they clear the comment as safe for all audiences.

And yup, just use OpenSCAD directly. It works much better.

Two points.

I'm not sure what is wrong with the Customizer. It works in my browser. But after doing a bit of a Google search, I found a lot of people who have solved the problem of the Customizer not working specifically in Google Chrome, by adding "customizer.makerbot.com" to the Chrome browser's "cookie allow list". If you want to try this, you can find the Chrome cookie allow list in Chrome settings as follows.

Settings/Advanced/Privacy and security/Content settings/Cookies/Allow/ --> Add

After pressing the "Add" button, you can add "customizer.makerbot.com", to allow cookies for the Makerbot customizer.
I'd be keen to know if this solves the problem?

Another slightly easier way to download the source .scad file, if you want to load it directly in OpenSCAD, is to download it from the "Thing Files" tab. Just under the main profile picture of the model, you will see a row of tab buttons, "Thing Details", "Thing Files", "Apps", ..., "Remixes". Select "Thing Files", and you can just download the SCAD model directly from there, ready to be loaded into Open SCAD.
This is exactly the same as papavomsee's solution above, except that you don't need to copy and paste anything, as the file already exists.

This is in fact the best way to work with SCAD models, directly in OpenSCAD. As papavomsee pointed out, you have access to all the source code and can make more modifications that would normally not be possible in the Thingiverse Customizer. Plus, Open SCAD just works better than the Thingiverse Customizer. You can move and rotate the model more freely, which makes working with the model much more comfortable.

And, I like to think I am one of those modelers who's code is fairly neat, structured and well commented. ;)

can u probaly change the scad file a bit to edit the holes on each side seperatly? most of the time i want to use them for different material thickness on each side so i have to use smaller screws on the left and bigger screws on the right

That is a good idea. I may not get time to do it soon. But that is a good idea. I'll definitely add that feature as soon as I get a chance.

In the meantime, something you can do, is create two models with differently configured holes, and the pin disabled on both models. Then print out the male and female leaves of each model individually. Then you can use a nail or a long machine screw as an external pin, to assemble the two leaves with their differently configured holes. Using an external metal pin would also give you a stronger assembly.

'Open in Customizer' doesn't work. What happened?

I just tried now and it appears to work on my side.
What is not working? Is the Customizer not opening, or is the model not working in the Customizer?

This project looks very complete! Thank you for sharing it!

I would like to suggest another feature that I really find useful:
Do you think it would be possible to add auto-close/auto-open functionality?

You can find an example of a hinge with auto-close on Thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1595140). However, this one is not parametric so it's not so useful altogether.

What do you think?

Hinge, autoclose
by airald

Thanks, glad you find it useful.

I think an auto close feature is a great idea. I will definitely add it to my to-do list.

Great functionality.

It works fine.
Is it possible to add a feature?

The male part encloses the female pin-part completely which is great for stability and strength.

Is it possible to have a small (parameterized) opening in the male part (snap together).
Then the male-part could snap around the female pin.

Now I do use the openscad script but would need to remove (using 3d software) a small part of the male-part so it snaps into
the female pin.
The two leafs are integrated into two (own model)parts without screws. it is more easy printing when the leafs are integrated into the parts due to the size of the complete model (does not fit on a 20x20 cm buildplate) and when done printing the two parts could just be snapped together.

if you consider changing the script, it would be an advantage to parametrize where the opening of the snapgap will occur.

My 2 cents of thoughts :)
As already said: great work and cool that you made the script public.

Thanks. And that is a good idea. I will definitely look into it.

I get a syntax error line 450 when I load the file in Openscad :/

Sorry, my bad, was openning it with OpenScad 2014 version...
Working fine with 2015.

Oh wow! Thanks for the support! ;)
And while I'm here, I love the work you're doing with Atelier. Looking forward to seeing how that turns out.

How hard would it be to add radius to this? Meaning either the hinge is completely a cirlce, or where its like a rectangle but with half circles on the ends.

I have created a separate experimental version of the model, which may be found here. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2351153
I have only added circular hinge support to the experimental version for now. It has an option for a completely circular hinge, as well as an option where the knuckle joint is left uncut, but the leaves are cut into semicircles from the edge of the knuckle joint, roughly as you describe above.

You can find the "Hinge Shape" parameter in the "experimental-parameters" group in the Customizer.

For the sake of mathematical convenience, I used the existing "hinge-parameters / Leaf Height" parameter, to set the radius of the circular hinge shape, both for full circle and semicircle leaf options. In this case, the radius is half the value of "hinge-parameters / Leaf Height".

To configure the fastener layout, use the following existing fastener parameters.
"fastener-parameters / Fastener Count"
"fastener-parameters / Fastener Column Count"
"fastener-parameters / Fastener Margin Distance"

Experimental Parametric Hinge

It should be possible. I'd have to think about how to arrange the fastener holes. I'll take a look on the week end.

Is there a way to make one side of the hinge higher than the other side?

I want to use this hinge to install my acrylic door to an Anet A8 printer sitting in an IKEA Lack "enclosure" and I need the part which holds the acrylic glass to be 3mm "higher" because of the height of the glass. Or on the other side just make the part of the hinge which is screwed to the table 3mm higher to allow the 3mm distance for the acrylic glass to be mounted.

Thanks :)


I have added differential leaf gauge support to an experimental version of the model, which may be found here. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2351153

The experimental parameters for the experimental version, may be found under "experimental-parameters" in the Customizer.

The differential leaf gauge feature in the experimental version of the model, works as follows:

  1. Specify a regular leaf gauge using the existing leaf gauge parameter, "hinge-parameters / Leaf Gauge".
  2. Use the differential gauge parameter, "experimental-parameters / Leaf Gauge Differential Offset", to specify a differential offset to the base leaf gauge.
  3. Positive values for "experimental-parameters / Leaf Gauge Differential Offset", will cause the female leaf to be thicker than the male. To create a thicker male leaf, use negative values for "experimental-parameters / Leaf Gauge Differential Offset".

In a case where you might want the gauge of one leaf to be 5mm, and the other to be 8mm (3mm higher than the thinner leaf), you would proceed as follows.

  1. Compute the regular gauge thickness, by calculating the average of the thick and thin leaf gauges. leaf_gauge = (5+8)/2 = 6.5mm.
  2. Compute the differential offset from the regular leaf gauge calculated in step one, by calculating the delta between the thick and thin leaf gauges. differential_gauge_offset = (8-5)/2 = 1.5mm.
  3. Set "hinge-parameters / Leaf Gauge" to 6.5mm.
  4. Set "experimental-parameters / Leaf Gauge Differential Offset" to 1.5mm. Because the value is positive, the female leaf will be 8mm, and the male leaf will be 5mm. To make the male 8mm and the female 5mm, simply set "experimental-parameters / Leaf Gauge Differential Offset" to the negative value, -1.5mm.


  • The reason for the less intuitive approach of using an offset to the existing leaf gauge, as opposed to the more intuitive approach of just using two parameters to specify the male and female leaf gauges independently, was to more conveniently integrate with the existing math, without making to many changes to the code.
  • There are some rendering artifacts that appear in the fastener holes in the Customizer. These should not be present in the STL file or the prints that you make from the model. They are just imaging artifacts caused by SCG boundary overlaps in the model. I'll fix this for the sake aesthetics, at some point.
  • I have not gotten round to adding support for knuckle gussets on differential leaf gauges. So you won't be able to use knuckle gussets with uneven leaf gauges. I'll get to it eventually! ;)
Experimental Parametric Hinge

Wow, this is amazing :) Thanks a lot! I'll download and test as soon as possible. Your new version comes right on time for my current project. I'll keep you updated in the comments section of the new part.

Have a great day!

Not yet. But if time allows, maybe I can add the feature. Just so I understand, based on your explanation, are you referring to the thickness of the leaves, what I refer to as leaf gauge in the model. Or, are you referring to the width of the leaves?

Yes correct, I refer to the thickness of the leaves. It would be awesome if you were able to add this feature in the future. Thanks.

Thanks so much..........

What happened to the files. Too sad, I would have liked to print them.


There is just the one OpenSCAD file, "parametric_butt_hinge_2.9.scad".

There is only one file, because it is a parametric model that you customize via the model's parameters. Thingiverse also only allows one parametric model at a time, in order to simplify integration with the Customizer.

You can open the model in the Customizer, and set the parameters you want there. Once you are happy with the model, you can press the "Create Thing" button, to create a remix of the model. Then, you can go into your new remix of the model, and download the STL file from there.

If you do print any, I would love to see how they come out!

Great job! Do you have a source repository to use as a reference for learning/remixes?

Thank you kindly. To be honest, I have never remixed anything before, so I'm probably not the best person to ask. In fact, I've only ever written two OpenSCAD scripts. This one and a caged ball bearing. The only repository I have is my GitHub, here. https://github.com/rohingosling

Although most of the work in my Github is unrelated to 3D modeling, I have tried to comment my OpenSCAD files as informatively as possible, which may help.

Thanks, that's great!

Thanks that will be a lot of help I have 3 more enclosures to build.

Would a hinge like this work on a hollow core door? I have all 3" hinges on my doors. squared corners.

I don't know for sure, but if I were to hazard a guess, I would say no. Maybe, if you used a large number of hinges, 5 or more, printed in ABS, or Nylon, or even some of these newer fiber reinforced filament materials, then 'maybe' they might hold for a while. But hollow core doors are still pretty heavy, so as a long term solution plastic hinges may not be the optimal choice.

However, if you are willing to give it a try, I'd be curious to know if it works.

No the first on didn't work and it's because of my robo 3d ri printer is over extruding plastic. But the second one and all the rest I've made
i have adjusted the setting to 6 and it works fine no extra movement I can post picture if you like, i'm working on a 205mm one now, They are to be used for a 80/20 extruded aluminum with acrylic glass enclosure for my two robo 3d r1s and my creality cr-10 each of course.

Thanks Again for taking the time to put this up on thingiverse

It's a pleasure. And yup yup, over extrusion will definitely lock up the joint. I'm keen to see pics of the finished enclosure once you have it all up and working. I'm looking for ideas for an enclosure myself. I like the idea of extruded aluminum and acrylic.

After such a great job it would take to build boxes for tools, even a closure. You know where I can find them if you want to print? Bravissimo for the magnificent job.
Translated with Google

Thanks, much appreciated.
I actually originally made this hinge for a printer enclosure. But the rest of the enclosure is made out of wooden panels. I found some tool boxes on Thingiverse. Most of the toolboxes you can find though, have built in hinges.

one question about the hinge, how can I line up the holes exactly I'm trying to make a hinge to use on a piece of 80/20 extruded aluminum using the T slots and I can't seem to get the holes exactly straight in line. In other words I'm trying to make a piano hinge.
Thanks for the help

Comments deleted.

You know, when I was designing this, I thought of adding an option to select the number of fastener hole columns, so that one could configure a single column of fastener holes on each leaf, like a piano hinge. I'll see if I can add the option. Should be doable.

In the meantime, something you could do to line up the holes exactly, is to compute the hinge width as follows.

hinge_width = 4 x fastener_margin + 2 x fastener_head_diameter + 2 x leaf_gauge

This will align all the fastener holes on each leaf into a single column. Even if you specify an even number of holes for each leaf, they will overlap exactly to form single holes with that formula.

Thanks that a lot of help!

In the event that you ever need to make piano style hinges again, I have added a parameter to select one or two columns of fastener holes.
So you don't have to use that formula anymore to line up a single column of holes, you can just set "Fastener Column Count" equal to 1.

Pleasure. Did the one you printed work?
I'm keen to know how easy/hard it was to free up the knuckle joints on the ones you are printing. Because your leaves are quite narrow, it may be quite tough to get enough leverage to free up the joint.
I might print some long narrow piano like test hinges the way you have configured yours, just to get a feel for what's required to free up the joint after printing.

One of the easiest hinge customizers on Thingiverse worth a tip
Printing one now!


Thanks! Much appreciated.