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TigerAce1945

Test Print Factory

by TigerAce1945 Mar 18, 2017
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Tried to print the btr50kp. Unfortunately the left and right track links were not connected to each other after slicing. I tried a few things but it only made it worse. The main body sliced fine.

Any chance you are working on a Panzerwerfer 42?

I have lots of Panzers that need to be Werfed.

(It is your own fault.. I am facing the ruddy Katty I printed and need support.

no plans for one currently

your panzers will continue to be unwerfed

(you must learn to live with my mistakes) ; P

Is it really werf it

It's never werf it

More on SdKfz 251's,

What's happened to the vision slots on the side of the model 'D' ?
The splash guard on the roof of 251/10's should be angular not curved as on the MG armed 251's
On the subject of the model 'C' wheel mudguard if you used the same one as the model 'B' but just shortened the front bit to about 1/3 I think that would be spot on.

I think I understand the problem with the c mud guards. I'm almost done with those fixes. Should have them up today.

I probably broke a model reference on the D model so the vision slits exist but are probably not positioned properly. Ill take a look at it. Good catch

Can you send me a picture of the /10 issue. In not exactly sure what you describing.

Thanks for the fixes. Please if you see anything else let me know now. Its only going to get harder to fix as I add more variants.

I've attached three pictures one is a war time photo showing some nice detail of the splash guard for the 37mm gun and the other is a photo of a Dragon Armor 1/72 SdKfz 251/10 ausf C model also showing the splash guard from a different angle, the third is of a half built Dragon 1/35 SdKfz 251/10 ausf C model.
(The angled splash guard only appears on the 37mm gun half-track!!!)

On the Dragon models you can also see all of the points I mentioned, one other small thing is the armoured vent covers on your model 'C' aren't quite far enough forward, on the pictures you can see that they start just forward of the wheel mudguard wereas yours start in line with the end of the mudguard as it angles down to the exhaust.

I've also added a couple of pictures showing some details of radios in the command half-track for your future reference.

I've attached a nice shot of the Bergman SdKfz 250/10 clearly showing the angled splash guard.

and a drawing from a model manufacturer showing very good detail of all the points mentioned.

I did some searching on the internet and this is what I think he is referring to. At some point the raised armor strip on the top of the 251/10 was changed from being a continuous curved strip of steel to one that was made of three straight pieces of steel. I imagine to speed production since it would be easier to cut and weld three straight pieces than bending a curve and welding it.

The 250 illustration shows it well. I wonder if the change was made to only the dash 10 or if it was made on all the 251s?

Hi,
Sorry to be the fly in your soup again but your SdKfz 251 'C' still needs some work.
The mudguard over the tracks should have a kink slightly forward of the storage bins so that it slopes upward to almost be at the same height as the bit covering the front wheels (it looks like you've thin'd this piece of mudguard to prevent it touching the tracks) it then should slope down to the exhaust unit at almost the same angle as the front piece covering the wheel. also the 'C' models mudguard over the wheels should have a small bit angled down at the front not quite as much as on the 'A/B' model but unlike the 'D' it does.
I've attached some pictures to be of help.
I hope these comments will be taken as they are meant and not as any sort of criticism, I'm very grateful for all your hard work.

Hi,

Just looking at the Leopard 1 variants here, and isn't the one you have marked up as Leopard 1 the 1A1 and the 1A1 is a 1A2 or 1A5?
I'm trying to tie down which versions had which turret upgrades, as both are meant to have upgrades based on the 1A1.

Now I'm getting confused by all the bloody sub-variants and arguing with myself.
What you may have there is a 1A1A1 turret with the Blomm & Voss armour package.

So my compressed thoughts:
Your Leopard 1 is a Leopard 1A1 and you Leopard 1A1 is a Leopard 1A1A1.

Of course I could be completely wrong on all of this.

Right, hopefully my final musing on this tonight. After having another read around, I've come to these conclusions.

Your Leopard 1 hull is exactly that, no skirts. Your Leopard 1 turret is good for a 1 or 1A1.
Your Leopard 1A1 hull is the hull for the 1A1 and all sub variants (with skirts). Your 1A1 turret is the 1A1A1 turret.
If you add the PZB 200 image intensification system to the 1A1A1 turret, it will become the 1A1A2 turret.
If you chop down the stereo range finders on the 1A1A1 and add the viewfinder box on top you can make it a 1A5 turret.

The IR box would be useful too in time on those that had them. At least the 1A1.

Hope that makes vague sense?
Please tell me to shut up now.

I think your right? the a1 is a miss label . Its supposed to be the 1a1a1, the 1 is supposed to be the standard initial variant but with so many versions its hard to lock down a definitive reference model so its possible that some details are from different models.

Comments deleted.

Any particular test print priorities this month?

if you get a chance can you print the a1a1 for me? other than that no real priorities yet.

gotcha

will try in my next set on the form2.

Will be doing some test prints of the 152mm Arty, the Katyusha trucks and the tractor.

These will be scaled to BA scale (28mm or 1/56).

Printing them for friends (I then have to play against them...)

TigerAce1945 - I was going to print a test T-60 but I'm getting stuck scaling it up to 1/72. Usually I find the width of the tank and run it through the scale converter at http://jbwid.com/scalcalc.htm, then use simplify3d to scale it up. I'm having trouble with the T-60 because I can't figure out how wide it is. Wikipedia and my old Airfix guide say it's 2.3 meters but tank encyclopedia has it 2.46 m wide. The model is 2.6cm wide in 1/100, so that suggests your source has it 2.6m wide. Are you scaling exactly to 1/100?

i took the dimensions from tanks ency and made a rectangle to paste a blueprint on. the problem with this method is that sometimes the blueprint doesn't line up with the dimensions (see picture below- both wiki and tanks ency had the wrong width). i usually solve this by adding to a dimension until the line up. in the case of the t-60 it was the width. i uploaded a fix model with a width of 2.5cm any thinner and the model starts to looked stretched and awful

Thanks. I'll try to print one this week.

It is possible split the rail from the truck? It is very hard remove the supports :(

Take a chill pill bro. Taking a bit longer is fine ;)

M10 almost good. Too high tower base and a little thin headlights cover. The rest is correct. Waiting for patches :)

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BxBMTaTupV3FZF9Kd1VGU184RjA

I cut 2 mm of tower base and its ok.

Damn i was nearly finished with my TOGII model. ohh well. so much work. lol. great work. :)

really Awesome work you do. i know we both make tank models but great work i will still bring out my version. since i have nearly finished it. :)

Hi

It's possible to make a flat bottom for the wheels t28 ( Side to stick ) to facilitate flat printing ?

Thank you for your great job !

best regards

Domi

Hey, I tried to print a Panhard 178 but the slicers I tried (Cura and Simplify3D) can't handle the notches of the wheels, even at higher accuracy (nozzle 0.4mm, 0.06mm interlayer, 1 outline shell). Maybe I'm doing it wrong...

Did you actually print or did you only get to the slicer? If you printed it can you post a make?

I just posted a pic of my Panhard print on and my wheels look OK to me. Seems to be a lot of detail on the RR wheels.

https://www.thingiverse.com/make:362940

Bruce

Test Print Factory

I went back and looked at the STL file in another viewer and I see what he means. I thought he meant the detail on the RR wheels. Its the tread pattern on the tires. If you look at the pic my tires came out smooth and should have had a pattern around the sides.

I do not think the treads on the wheels will ever print at 1:100. I would have to make them disproportionate from the rest of the wheel and it would look awful. when i design my models i add smaller details, such as tire treads, track shoes, and rivets, for the 1:56 crowd. these small details would never print at 1:100 even if you had a god level printer. most slicers (if not all) are smart enough to ignore details that are to small to print thus it shouldn't effect the overall look of the model. as long as the model prints and has no glaring issues, like whole fenders not printing, I'm fine with it. Honestly it just comes down to the limitations of the technology.

I agree for the details. Well, it makes the wheels a little smaller than they actually are but it's not a big issue.

Thanks for your reply and your models!

Hi! Tried to print turret of T29. Looks perfect - i will post photos later - but is it in 1:100 scale? Looks really big. :)

Scale should be correct. T29 was a very big vehicle. nearly twice as long as a Sherman!

When you update could you please could you indicate which files are updated. Also do you want pictures of the completed test prints posted?
your M4A2 Marine prints well the only issue was printing the tracks the boards covering the running gear would print better separately.
The Tulip looks great but the turret was a bit tricky to print the rockets, it worked on my second attempt. if the rockets could be printed separately that might help alleviate print issues.

Any thoughts on future releases such as,
a Sherman BARV
A T34 calliope add-on would be very nice to have for the Sherman's
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/T34_Calliope

I am printing with a lulzbot mini at .1 layer height whit a .35 nozzle

tulip and marine models redone with separate parts

The boards print great for the marine. Thank you. I will try and find time to print the tulip turret and rockets. I took a quick look and they look great! And wow love the look of theT1E3 mine roller. I was I cant even keep up with the speed your designing things. If you ever get the urge what do you think of the Canadian built Ram its close to the Sherman but uses some different running gear components and some slight differences to the hull. If I was to attempt it with the software I have it will take years before I get a decent model mesh made. lol
It never made it into combat and was used in a training roll and as a prime mover among other things. Several even went on to become farm tractors in Australia and the UK. If you get the urge take a look.

Thanks again!

I could make a ram but the hull would be very difficult to make in my modeling software. 10-15 hours of work to get the rounds right. I don't think this is worth the time for a vehicle that only served in limited numbers as an apc. Maybe some day ill do it but not any time soon.

I thought it was my lack of experience with design that was why I have started and abandon that idea of a ram more than once. Your very right about the time. That's a lot of time for a non combat armored vehicle in 1-100 scale. Maybe someday I will be able to pull it off.

what about making priest kangaroo's? I think someone already build the priest model so I guess it's "only" the gun one shoudl remove and to fill in the hole left in the hull? now I say "only", bu t i hqve no clue on hard it is to do these things as I'm only used to working with 2D models in inkscape

I've been adding a version number to the zip files. Next time I update ill differentiate the new files.

yes if you can post a make with your pictures it will be much appreciated.

The problem with separating the boards and rockets is that small objects tend to not print well. Ill cut them off and post test files but I have a feeling that print failure rates will be higher.

current planed vehicles are
M4
Sherman I
Sherman IC
M4a1
M4a1 76mm
Sherman II
M4a2
Sherman III
M4a3
M4a3e2
M4a3e2 76mm
M4a3e8
M4a3 76mm
M4a3 Zippo
M4a3 105
M4a4
Sherman V
Sherman VC
Sherman calliope
Sherman wizbang

idk about the BARV it wasn't really a combat vehicle and it rarely left the beach. If I was going to make a ARV I would probably do the M32

Nice! Love your work I'm definitely looking forward to the calliope. The M32 would be nice I have an elderly 1/35 model on the shelf right now. A 1-100 model would open up a couple of options for different game scenarios as well as a mine roller attachment for the a-frame the possibilities are endless. I'm trying to finish an M1 dozer blade kit for M4A3E8's I keep getting sidetracked unfortunately.

When this gets released I will be posting the para solid files of all the models. Would that help you with the dozer kit?

Yes that could be a great help. Thanks in advance.

Strange that the one marked ignore this please has the most hits LOL!

By the way there was a soviet ZIS 52(?) AA gun in here is it going to be released for general use , looks very cool!

52k AA is in heavy flak pack now

Is there a "best way" to print these?

I have problems with the barrels being mis-shaped

Normally with turrets you print them with the barrel sitting horizontally.

Tried that and they are terrible!

Please If you do decide to help and test print some of these please message me with feedback and post a make with pictures.
Now I’d be happy to help but in order to fix these “terrible” models I need proper feedback such as

  1. Which models are you having trouble with? If it’s all of them I believe your slicing software is the problem, the models slice perfectly on my software and other users have printed without issue. If it’s the Jumbo 76mm, I’ve been hearing reports that the model doesn’t slice properly on some programs but not all. I’m not sure why this problem exists; this seems to be a bug on the software side.

  2. Did you actually print these models? Is so can you post a make with pictures even if they did not come out properly. I can usually dissect what happened through pictures.

  3. How are the barrels misshaped? Are they missing sections? Are they not round? Do the muzzle breaks have issues? Are they to thin?

I will do some prints for you over the next couple of days to give you decent feed back

what is the name of this artillery piece?

EDIT: Never mind, I think I found a wiki entry for it: 85 mm air defense gun M1939 (52-K)

You might have named this the Guinea Pig Ward :-))