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kencam

Tronxy X3 Bed Upgrade

by kencam Mar 18, 2017
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Hi you test this upgrade? works?

Yes it works. I've used it for over a year.

I moved the y axis motor to the inside of the frame. more room .

Hi Kencam,

i printed all the parts for this yesterday and plan on putting it all together in the next few days,
Do i need any additional hardware for the assembly so i don't start what i cant finish!
Also what length legs are needed to make space for the Y Motor or do i need any at all?

Thanks for the files they are awesome

It's been a while since I did this mod. Just make sure you have enough T-nuts and screws for all of the mounts. You should be able to use the existing hardware to mount the stepper, bed mount and idler pulley.

Oh, you do need legs for the Y stepper. I used these.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1979601

Shapely Tronxy X3 legs
by idig3d

Hey Kencam, Love the bed upgrade.. in the process of printing it out as we speak. I just had one question: Does the bed sit higher than originally? I have made a new end stop that makes it so it will not need any adjustments in the firmware but I realized that if the bed sits higher I may have to change it. Thanks so much and keep up the good work!

Thanks. The bed is actually a few mm lower.

I just got a X3A and my Y and bed is so loose.

You might be able to tighten it up with a couple of zip ties so you can print replacement parts.

actually I saw a post when someone else had the same problem and it worked. you have to loosen the wheels and hold them together and retighten them. however the bed is kinda tilted. not a very good design I think. I printed your fix but now I am having a problem with the hotend.. the filament is super hard to extrude at the correct them. I also have a tronxy 802 and creator pro and I can push filament thru no problem. I tried to clear the nozzle but I do not think it is clogged. brand new out of the box and a complete lemon.

The X3 is the printer that could have been great. Tronxy really dropped the ball.

The tip might be bad. I had an intermittent clog issue once that ended up being the bowden tube coming a little loose. It made a gap between the tube and throat that filled up with plastic. I cleaned and replaced the tip several times before I figured it out.

I have a flexion I think I will mount on it. I really like v-slot. I am gonna do the next one all open build. after 500mm the price for a printer is silly, especially if you do not need to heat the bed. I picked up some pulled cnc steppers that work great when I switched them out on the other printers and you can pick them up for only a few bucks and I think they are higher end steppers for steppers,

Ken, Tronxy did not have a complete hotend, I inserted a tube and it works fine now. their quality control needs help

What material did you use?

PLA initially. I switched to PETG for the bed and stepper mount. I'll switch it all out for PETG later.

What material did you use?

How many bolts and nuts do you measure and size of the model required

hi, That changes in the bed model v2 and v3

Seems like there may be 2 versions of the acrylic bed. The part that attaches to the acrylic bed mount on yours seems to be 42mm from center of the screws but on mine they are only 40mm. I'm guessing this is why some people have serious bed wobble while some, including me, do not.

I have 2 X3s with 2 different beds and I've seen a 3rd design with a writing on it.
http://i.imgur.com/5Cx8xR9.jpg

Mine looks like the one on the left. I'm in the midst of remixing it to fit the hole spacing on mine.

I have improved your end stopper. You had the tab on the wrong side. I put it inward so the bed won't hit the frame. Here is the link https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2356274

Tronxy X3 Bed Mod Stopper Tweak
by Exzile

Though I welcome any improvement, I don't think you had mine mounted in the correct place.
It might be hard to see but you can zoom into this pic.
http://i.imgur.com/W4P1gZh.jpg

It should be in the left side pointing inward.

Hi, congratulation for a fabolous upgrade. Now, no more poor Y-axis. Construction is stiff uses almost all pieces of orginal screws :) One remark that Y-motor is inverted. Unfortunatelly there was not possible to change it in EEPROM or Repetier-Server which I'm using . Solution is to swich cable on a plug red with blue. Anyway must-have for all Tronxy XY x3 users . Thank you !

If the Y motor is inverted, you put the bed on in the wrong direction. The belt clamps should be on the left side.

Thanks, I didn't know that. I think more photos/instructions could help the others.

The bolts on the sensor are smaller than the length of the holes on the end stop you made .Can you make it smaller.

Comments deleted.

The mod doesn't change the steps per mm.
That is a value in the firmware.
No.

The triangle you refer to is very slight. I don't think it will cause much of a difference, if any.

I just had the shafts delivered today, going to start upgrading with this today! Wish me luck!!

Ooh, definitely post a make!

Good luck! It's a pretty easy build. The hardest part is getting the belt to the correct length.

Would it be worthwhile to upgrade from the Melzi to a RAMPS? I can buy the ramps, mega, lcd, and 4 of the stepper drivers from 1 ebay listing and then get the last a4988 from another. I could then also resell the Melzi on ebay. (Think I like ebay?) I've heard there're some issues with the Melzi board and it's a bit of a fire hazard. Thanks for letting me turn this into a general x3 forum and helping me out! :) If I get one I'm definitely doing this upgrade and some of your others...

I don't think the Melzi is a fire hazard. I would bet that most of the burned connectors are due to improper assembly. If you don't tighten those connections properly, they will produce heat. I did however upgrade the wire that goes from the power supply to the Melzi on my 2nd printer. I used 10 gauge stranded. I've printed plenty of ABS with it and have had no issues. The wires stay cool to the touch.

The best way I found to fix that is to solder the ends of the wire that are inserted into the tie downs, that gives the maximum connectivity.

I've read not to do that. Just upgrade the wire and make sure the connection is tight.

Really... I am surprised someone would say that... The only reason to upgrade the wire is if it couldn't handle the current going through it. Looking a the wire I got it should support the power that is being applied... I looked at all the pictures I could find of the failures related to the wire attaching to the board and it looks to me like current arcing due to an insufficient connection. Well I guess I will find out...

The wire that came with mine was pretty thin. I had read from another owner that under heavy load it became warm to the touch so I upgraded it. It might not have been necessary but it couldn't hurt. As for tinning the ends of the wires, I don't personally see that helping in the least. If anything it would decrease the bite on the wire by the screw connector.
Having said that, I think we are all guilty of thinking we are experts and spouting whatever nonsense we read or our skewed opinion based on limited experience. I've seen some questionable opinions being spouted on the Facebook group and sure enough they get repeated over and over as fact. So take my opinion with a grain of salt...

No one's an expert on anything per se, and that's why you cross reference! However, you aren't the first person to say upgrade to a heavier wire. If I do get an x3 (so many printer choices!) I'll make sure to do that. That said, does this seem legit? https://www.fasttech.com/products/1040/10031659/6913900 It's pretty stinking cheap. Some people have ordered from the website dozens of times and love it, others say their order never came...

Looks like a good price but I know nothing about that company.

Yeah, but the question is, at what point is it too good of a price... I've heard that lots of their products are just clones of other companies', but it claims to be authentic and it uses the manufacturer photos... Hmmmmmmm

No worries, live and learn I say! Oh, I created some new legs for the Tronxy X3 I wanted to get your opinion on them... it's my first thing... :-)

Tronky X3 Legs
by Megreth

Nice legs! :-)

Yeah, I've heard upgrading that wire helps. I've just seen lots of people having those connections burned, and it's getting a bit intimidating. Maybe they should call it a Meltzi lol. So just use a heavier gauge and tighten the connections well?

Well, I just got my Tronxy X3 and I got some pretty good prints out of it so far! I must also say one of the reasons I did go with this printer is because of the good resources related to maintaining and upgrading it. You being one of the largest contributors to that list, and this upgrade specifically. I know before I bought it the Y access seemed a bit... well you know, but overall I liked the printer due to not so much acrylic like most of the others. I would like to ask a question... specifically about the first picture of your rig.... I noticed the display hooked to the front of your printer.... Is that an upgrade? the X3A? ... cause I want it already... The menu I have one the X3...sucks.

I replaced the main board with a MKS SBase. It's a 32 bit board the runs Smoothieware. You can pick up the board and touch screen for around $75 on Aliexpress. It's a great upgrade. I highly recommend it. Changing the firmware and configuration is very easy with Smoothieware. You don't have to deal with Adruino at all.

I use a MKS SBase too, but I have some trouble getting the right thermistor settings. I made some calculations using the thermistor tables found in this file: https://github.com/TronxyX3/tronxy-x3-repetier-firmware/blob/master/X3_8_Repetier_V1.0_Tronxy/Repetier/Configuration.h. I converted this calculations to Steinhart coefficients afterwords. But I am not sure that I really do the right thing. I use the assumptions that the used thermistors both have a pre-resistor of 4k7 and the thermistors have 100K at 25°C. How did you solve this Problem?

I used the default values for the thermistor settings. I checked the temp using a non-contact gun and everything seems fine. Let me know if you what you end up using.

Actually... I don't mind Arduino at all, I use that for my robotics! If you could be so kind and point me in the direction of a good one that does use Arduino on GearBest?

If you just want the touch screen, it will work with several other boards. You would have to look up which ones.

I think I found that item on Gearbest: http://www.gearbest.com/3d-printer-parts/pp_227468.html is this the correct one?

This link seems dead, could you provide an updated one please?

So you said it's a great upgrade, but trying to do this printer on a tight budget probably wouldn't allow this. Is there a cheaper alternative version that you think still adds decent value? Or would it be better to sink any extra money into upgrades like your Y upgrade here?

You don't have to upgrade anything. If you are careful with the acrylics and get it assembled correctly, it will work.

By that you mean don't scratch/bend those pieces? What pieces actually are acrylic?

Sooooooo, being a newbie, what's that do for you?

It is 32 bit as opposed to the 8 bit Melzi, it supports 1/16 and 1/32 micro stepping, it supports 2 extruders and hot ends, you can resume a print after a power failure (I haven't tried that one yet), it has a network jack and also supports a bluetooth and wifi module, it runs the far superior Smoothieware, it has a totally customizable touch screen, I could go on... Well worth $75 to me.

Ok, most of that doesn't mean a ton to me lol... Sounds like it could be good to look into though! Does the wifi module mean wireless printing? That itself could be worth a ton!

I'm not sure what that is but I can tell you the only upgrade the x3a has is auto leveling. Many of these i3 style printers have terribly wobbly Y axis and this upgrade seems to solve that well without too much work/$

Mr. Cheapo wants to know if this would work: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2Pcs-8mm-x-400mm-Linear-Hardened-Shaft-Round-Rod-with-LM8UU-Bearings-/172196104093?hash=item2817b0079d:g:7S8AAOSwfZhXNTnG

I'm considering getting an x3a and so I'm seeing what kinds of mods are out there, but don't want to spend too much on them.

Yes, that is exactly what you need.

Ok, sweet. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rP06SOdEstA discouraged me a bit... I really like the huge build volume and 2020 beams of the x3 though. We'll see!

It's a true DIY project. You can get it to work with the parts provided with the kit, if they aren't broken. Some of mine were...
The kits seem to have a lot of variation so you might get tight parts or loose parts. Just assemble it as best as you can. Make sure the Y and Z axis are loose enough to move freely but tight enough that they are not sloppy. The first thing you should print is a better shroud with a parts cooling fan. There are tons of them on Thingiverse. Then start printing replacement parts for the acrylics. They are good to have because the acrylics break easily when you over tighten them and you will over tighten them...
I watched a video the other day were the guy was really unimpressed with the kit but then printed a near perfect Benchy with it. I think that sums up the X3 really well.

So basically, it takes a lot of love, but once you get stuff replaced it's a great printer?

It can be a great printer but that will depend on your skill level.
Printer upgrades will be an ongoing thing. There is always something to change/try. That's something I actually enjoy.

My 3d printing skill level's not much. It's basically limited to a closed source printer I don't actually own. However, I do love to build and tinker with stuff, so... There are a ton of great upgrades I see! If I were to go the route of buying an X3 would you recommend purchasing from eBay (or something like that) or maybe Gearbest? I'm not sure if I had missing parts the eBay sellers would be able to help much...

Several people on the X3 Facebook group said that the eBay sellers are selling X3As but sending X3s. If you want an X3A I wouldn't go with eBay. I got my first one from GearBest. It was damaged during shipping and had mismatched parts. I don't blame GearBest for it's issues and they did give me some store credit for my trouble. I got the 2nd one cheap from from a guy who couldn't figure out how to make it work. (That was a whole different ordeal...)

Ok, that sounds like something to watch out for. That's good that they refunded you. Are yours x3 or x3a? Gearbest only seems to have the x3.

Mine are just X3s. You can always add a sensor later.

OK thought so. What sort of a difference does that make? And does the x3 have any dual extruder capabilities that you know of? Thanks for all your help!

Comments deleted.

What size of linear rod are you using in this design?

You will need two 8mm x 400mm linear rods and four LM8UU bearings.

Any plans on making an awesome X axis linear system? :)

I haven't felt the need to change it. It seems to work OK for me. If really want to change, I suggest looking up the FLSun I3. You might be able to incorporate what they are doing.

I'm working on a linear bearing mod to the Y axis on my printer. You are correct, the Y axis is probably the worst part of the X3. Good design!

Sorry Kencam, where ddid you fit the Y endstop? I can´t see it.

I added the endstop to one of the rod holders.

I haven't integrated one into the design yet. I've been using this one.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:26797

Enlightx End Stop Holder

One parte missing. The belt support in front.

That part is listed in the summary .