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E3D V6 mount for Creality CR-10

by Lukes_Laboratory Mar 17, 2017
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Thank you, works perfect. I moved my Z Stop and my Y stop. I push my Y stop up an extra 1/4 of inch, to miss my clip every time. The hot end would never get hot past the first fin. So you can make it out of PLA. I did actually tap the holes with a 3mm tap.

Hi, i would like to cut this out of alluminum, but the cam program needs a solid model (not a mesh). Can you provide it or send it to me? I won't publish it.
This is my mail: gruppograppo@gmail.com

I'll trade you the file for a CNC'd extruder mount made out of aluminum. I'll provide both.

Does it work on ender 3?

Should, but I don't know for sure. Very little risk in trying it!

Thanks for sharing! What's the infill % for this?

Rotate 90° and it'll print faster, supports are not necessary.

Link for the remixed mount; https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2466877

CR-10 E3D V6 / Lite Hotend mount stabilized

Will this also fit on the Tevo Tornado? My stock hot end co.pletely got trashed and someone told me to upgrade to the E3D V6 or one of its many clones. I'm still somewhat new to all this so kinda in need of help and there isn't a whole lot of discussion going on or in is to how to do some of this stuff on the Tevo Tornado.


After adding dampers to all motors, upgrading the E Motor with better torque motor and fittings I'm now able to print as high 200% in speed on 1.75mm filament ABS at that!!
Thumbs up! All because light weight!

What fang are you guys using for a part cooler?

Can this be printed in PLA without having heat problems?

No problems! If your e3d cooling is working properly, the first fin closest to the heat break should be cool to the touch. That means that the groove mount this attached to should be room temperature. I have not witnessed any deflection issues with this mount.

Ok cool. Otherwise I have some PETG too to print with.

The ones I sell on eBay are in PLA and I have not heard complaints either! You should be good to go! Let me know if you have issues.

I intend to use this design and do the change of my printer hotend. What support for the fans may fit with this design?

This will accept the default 30mm fan provided by e3d or several mounts (see e3d fan fang for Cr-10) that accept the stock 40mm fan.

The original looks closer to the plate. If so do you lose about an inch in the Y direction? If that makes sense.

Shouldn't lose much if at all, I'll check, but it's definitely less than the lost length from having the clips hold on the glass

Are there plans to add a BLTOUCH mount addition to this?

Not particularly, and I don't have a BLTouch to model against/test. In addition, judging from the stock board, the most extra pins you could add are two, not the three additional (+the stock z-axis) in addition to reprogramming the board to accept it. My board IS flashed to Marlin 1.1, but it'd still be quite a task.

You ever come up with a part cooler?

I was thinking of revamping the one that's a direct replacement for the fan mount opening the gap a little wider so it fits.

Its been a while since I was able to come back to this design, as I've moved and have been without internet for 3 weeks since then. OriginalHotrodder uses a radial fang fan as pictured in the "made" section of this mount. I'm probably going to use the same design as it requires the least modeling on my end and seems to work well.

What additional screws and what sizes are needed in order to mount this all up?

Two m3x15mm screws. I'm thinking of a useful way of mounting it w/out the extra hardware, but can't come up with something that provides the rigidity that i need.

I stole the 2 that came from either the X or Y stepper bolts when I got dampers.

I printed your adapter from PLA when I first got my CR-10 a couple of weeks ago. I just changed over to a full metal E3d-V6 clone last night. After pulling the fan shroud from the stock hot end I saw that I could slice the insulation on the heater block and loosen the screw holding the heater. Removed the thermistor and both fit the E3d-V6 perfectly. Crimped on ends for the heat break and cooling fans and attached them all together. Fits perfectly, elegant design! Thank you for sharing it. Currently printing another copy in the Protoparadigm Ruby ProSpec PLA. The stock hot end works great but since I print a lot of PETG I love the full metal hot end and the fantastic availability and cost of the E3d-V6 nozzles. Can't wait to bolt up the volcano heat block and a .6 or .8 nozzle.

Its people like you who keep me going. Thanks for sharing!

Just a note: The volcano is longer so you'll have to swap for a different mount or move the Z-stop.

So how does the e3d v6 compare to the CR-10's stock hot end? Is there a noticeable difference in quality?

Suprisingly, the CR10 stock hotend is actually quite good.

I swap it out for replaceable, common parts that I share between printers. e3d hotends are fantastic and I haven't gone wrong with them yet!

So in terms of calibration, is a PID tune all you would need to do if you switched to the e3d?

You'd need to change the fan at a minimum, and change the thermistor for the e3d provided one (preferred)

Changing the thermistor requires reprogramming the controller, which is more than most people want to do.

I recently broke my original thermistor and swapped it out for the one on my E3D (snipped and soldered), and so far everything is fine. As far as I understand it, the thermistor in the E3D and the stock hotend are just regular 100k ohm thermistors.

While I'm happy that you were able to solder in a new thermistor and it works, I caution everyone as just because they are 100k ohm thermistors, does not mean they perform similarly. The 100k refers to the resistance at some base temperature (probably room temperature, but that could vary from place to place as well) and from there, if the resistor (Thermistor) isn't made of the same material, shape, etc, the temperature->resistance curve could be significantly different, throwing off your results. That's why in marlin you have a large table of "100k thermistors" to choose from, because just because they're 100k doesn't mean their resistance->temperature varies identically at all.

Screenshot off google showing what i'm talking about -> https://lenkernel.files.wordpress.com/2015/01/04.png?w=640

BTW it looks to me that some have had decent luck using this mount (which I printed on my Flux Delta+) and one of the Fang mods that allow use of the stock part blower fan. I'm currently using the OEM fang mount and stock hot end but due to my very first jam (wood PLA is suspect after roughly using 500grams of the 1kg spool) I'm currently removing the stock hot end and going to completely clean it out and put in the extra .4 nozzle included with the CR-10. and NOT use anymore wood PLA until I install either a microswiss all metal hotend and/or plated/hardened nozzle. Wood PLA is awesome but now I know why users with the stock CR-10 hot end don't like using it because its tendency to cause a jam.

don't you love how all the videos and you tubers never go into detail about upgrading firmware or how to guide? Seems most people hit up Chris at Tiny machines to get their motherboard reflashed. Is mattercontrol sw able to reflash the stock cr-10 firmware? I pretty much disregarded everything that came installed on the stock provided SD card as most of it was corrupt but one would think creality would provide details on how to flash firmware for updates etc. Again to be 100% clear its a must to reflash the PID table/firmware when swapping to any E3D V6 hotend??? I have a clone that was provided by gearbest when I ordered my CR-10 and after using a LOT of wood fill PLA I just got my first jam and requires cleaning and disassembly so thought now was perfect time to try out the clone. Thanks

So: I've reflashed my board by doing a cobbled together version of the guides online on how to flash other boards combined with pin outs etc etc using a raspberry pi. Reflashing the board requires an additional programmer (Arduino, pi, etc) and a slight bit of knowledge to load the bootloader. Once flashed, it's easy to re-flash. Will the machine work without a re-flash? Yes. Will it work well? Maybe if Calibrated to a custom displayed vs real temp. I'm talking about situations where it reads 230c but it's actually 215 c, but when it reads 250c it's actually 255c. The reason I upgrade to e3d hotends is consistency. If you want to manually tune every time without knowing the true relative temperatures, that's up to you.

In other news- I'm working on a guide on how to flash the cr-10 using the raspberry pi as well as a how to upgrade to a e3d hotend. It will be out in the next few weeks I hope

AWESOME! Can't wait to see your progress! Following- I'm perfectly fine with doing Pin Out/In and flashing firmware but there isn't a lot of info currently directed at the CR-10. Its very odd that Creality didn't include a bootloader or an easier way to install upgrades to their marlin firmware. I thought about doing a PID auto tune by using mattercontrol and sending various g codes in order to get the proper values. The youtuber Tom S has some great guides on how to do this and gives great baseline values for E3D V6 hot ends so at least it'll get you started with a base. He demonstrates how to send the commands remotely but I cant remember if he ONLY used mattercontrol by Matterhackers and just made a USB connection to the pc and 3D printer or if he had to use a rasp Pi or other variant.

Ah, that gives me alot to think about. Time for more research. In the mean time, before this print is finished which screws/nuts did you use for this?

I used m3's that were used to install the original fan guard.

My E3d-v6 clone arrives Monday so I'm printing this weekend (PETG)so I'll be ready. I like your design, simple and effective. I'll update how it turns out. Going with one of the radial fang fan designs for part cooling.