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Anet A8 Motor Mount Replacement (with Z Axis REAL Fix)

by klownius Mar 12, 2017
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My Anet A8 (bought late 2018, board v1.5) has differently sized holes, however I made it fit with some filing. :) I need to reprint the other one as well (my mounts cracked after using thread-locker), so I will try to get correct measurements and post them as remix. :)

Sounds good! I may eventually upgrade my printer to a newer version, but it's running good right now so there isn't a need.

Great man! Can you also make the same for the white z carriage brass nut holes?

Thanks for a great part! Would it be possible to get the step files for this? I would like to round over the edges in Fusion 360...

I designed this with TinkerCad.com, and I don't see an option to export to STEP files.

Maybe it's just my print, but I'm going to have to drill out the holes in the top plate (both) so that the smooth rods fit into them.
They are way too small so the rods just sit on top of the hole. Can't just print out new ones either because my printer is in pieces to install all my pre-printed upgrades.
Anyone else run into this problem?
Used Cura 14.07 and (of course) 2017 Anet A8.
Otherwise they are great!

I have an early 2016 Anet A8 (when the carriages where 3D printed, but after they updated the mainboard), and I used Cura 15.04.6 as well as Cura 2.5.0.

What is the diameter of the smooth rod for your A8?

Thanks for this uneven rod fix !!!
Fantastic job !!

Thank you! Thanks, I hope it improves prints for you like it did for me. I couldn't even print past 10mm before there was binding.

Has anyone made 1 piece mounts?

(I actually did this today)


Anet A8 1-piece Z motor mount v3

I saw your creation and it's very nice! I like how you added a front panel to it.

So I just printed the left top plate. NO HOLES IN IT ANYWHERE? I'm using Cura 262.

I will have to look into this as it sliced just fine for me. Someone else experienced a similar issue.

It sliced fine in Cura 2.7. It would be helpful if the side pieces were set up to be left and right so that the exterior sides would look the same. I flipped the panel, but it didn't change anything. The slots are a real improvement.

I finally got around to creating a mirror for the side piece. I don't know what took me so long as it was really easy to do. Thank you for the suggestion!

they sliced fine in CURA 2.7

Cura 2.5 seems to slice these pieces funny. The inside is hollow for the first 7 layers, no infill regardless of infill %. The infill starts at layer 7 so the first infill layer gets printed floating in mid-air because of this. The infill also stops again 7 layers before it is finished and so the final wall on the top is again printed in mid-air. Luckily this seems fine with PETG and no supports. I still get a good looking piece but with weirdly hollow walls that seem quite weak. I know layer 7 is arbitrary, the point is that for some reason Cura slices this and does not start infill until a few layers in, the walls are already pretty high before it starts the infill. Is this by design?

No, it is not by design. I printed this up with a much earlier version of Cura. In fact when the object is designed in CAD, it should be solid all the way through. It is only the slicer settings that determine infill and how all of that gets sliced. Is it possible that you have some settings in Cura that are causing this?

However, I do have Cura 2.5 installed, and I will see how it slices it up on mine...

My original z axis motor support plate (the side plate) is broken.
Is this one compatible to the original one so I have only to print the side plate?
Thanks in advance

I have not tried this using just the side parts. However, one of the makes shows someone that only printed the top piece out and not the sides.


I would think that it should be possible to print one side piece. You might need to sand it a little where the top part fits on.

Keep in mind, the top piece is the part that is most essential to straightening up the Z Axis rods...

Anet A8 Motor Mount Replacement (with Z Axis REAL Fix)

What about top parts? And I'm wondering how to make those lead rods parallel in different direction if you know what I mean because my technical english doesn't exist.

The left and right direction is what they seem to be off by the most. Do you need forward and back? Is that what you mean? Straightening at the bottom will put them straight at the top - nothing else is needed at the top.

One more thing I should add:

The coupler/bearing with the lines in the middle should have a gap between the threaded rod and the motor shaft (about 5 to 10mm). This is important! I had to loosen the lower inset hex screws and raise up the coupler/bearing as mine arrived pushed all the way down so it was almost touching the motor. Next, I put the threaded rod next to coupler/bearing, and put a piece of masking tape on it showing about how far it needed to go in (I went about 3mm below the top inset screw).

The coupler/bearing kinda looked like an awkward spring to me. Well, it is. When installed properly, you should be able to push down on the threaded rod, and cause the middle part of the coupler/bearing to expand and contract.

I think all motors come with couplers pushed all the way down.