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jailcee

Jailcee W-Jack (wedge jack)

by jailcee Mar 11, 2017
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Printed very well at .2 layer height. Now to find the hardware.
Ended up determining the height is too high with lowest setting due to insulation under CR-10S.

So my CR-10S came with bed insulation already stuck to the heated bed, so I've never been able to see or tell where the thermistor or wire run is. I've meant to print this for a while but I've just been scared of damaging those. Would you have an image or so of it? Thanks regardless!

A nice McGyver thing for a flatter platter.
I printed this for the CR-10
Cura 2.6.2
PLA Hatchbox
205 schnoz
60 bed
.2mm layer height
70mm/s print speed
30 mm/s base and brim
10% infill
4mm brim
6.5 mm retraction at 18 mm/s
print cooling 100%

Other relevant things:
Ultimate knobs
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2408748

Bed level assistant print model:
http://omarmcadam.com/3dprinting/

Model cooling fan duct mod thing:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2354572

Assembly:
Use a 2inch 6/32 machine screw and nut.
https://www.google.com/search?q=%236-32+x+2+pan+head+machine+screw+dimensions+stainless+steel
"Exercise" the screw through the assembly with a screwdriver
Use the provided spatula "model removal tool" to scrape away the printer residue and smooth the working surfaces of the wedge

Installation and Adjustment:
Clip the glass platter to the corners of the heated aluminum bed with the (included) clamps.
Heat the bed to 50º then leveled the bed according to the z-axis stopper height (using Auto Home)
Set the corner heights using the sheet of paper as a feeler at the four corners, about 40mm in from the corners.
Use the "Bed Levelling Assistant" model to speed through the level process.
(Used the control of the steppers to move the print head, avoiding touching the assembly other than the height adjuster knobs.)
Using the "Ultimate knobs" thing will reduce the mechanical force on the knobs resulting in quicker and less error prone levelling.

Fiddling:
I "eyeballed" the gap and cut a wine cork into a thin, flat insulator to go between the device and the bed.
(enjoying the wine during 3D printing projects is optional but recommended)
I positioned the wedge thing device to the side of the sensor location.
I used a straight edge (aluminum ruler) and a sheet of paper as a feeler to bring up the center of the glass.

Note: the pressure on the bed is trivial and is not risking damage to the heater element.

I did this mod in preparation for a large object print (50hr+) so I'll report back with some photos.

CR-10 Ultimate Leveling Knob Attachment
CR-10 duct fan mod Remix

Hey! Creality_Czech,

I'd like to give this "thingi" a try and see if it'd fix my problem. But, and I dunno why, the link you've provided to: "Bed level assistant print model:
http://omarmcadam.com/3dprinting/" ain't working (03/06/2018) for me.

Got any clues as to why the link ain't working?

Yeah, I know it's a pain be asked silly questions. Sorry.

Anyways, THX (in advance)

Don't print. The screw/bolt needs to be a M3 but the nut is a M5... awesome design. No, brilliant.

Have you considered making a shorter (less-tall) version of this? I just printed it but it's way too tall to fit under the bed on my CR-10. It could easily be 4mm shorter. Also, what size are the screw holes and nut made for? Holes look like M4 but the nut seems to be around M5 size.

I wish I'd have read your comment before printing! It fits under the glass but not under the 'insulation' under the bed on my new CR-10S

The middle of my bed where the sag is has the heating pad, will this damage that?

The middle is the thermal sensor. The heating elements cover the whole underside of the bed. The pressure between the two seems insignificant when adjusted. I'm still "fiddling" with this model, but the design seems sound. The assembly of the print carriage and the bed resting on four springs allows some variation from one machine to the next. Just reassembling the bed after applying PEI to the glass has given me a whole new game of leveling the bed. Why it tweaked so much, I dunno.

The screw hole takes an M3 but the space for the nut seems to be an M5? My longest M3 was not long enough so I am back to shimming with tape under the glass

Is the design for metric screws or imperial ? I need to use metric screws (Europe) and would like to check before printing. It is the solution to my leveling problem. Just need to find or make a extra long screwdriver. Thanks. By the way, I was thinking of making a design with a longer screw or threaded rod that extends to the edge of the bed for normal screwdriver-length operation ?

I was able to get this to working using a 2-inch 6-32 screw.

I tried with an M4 50mm screw first but it didn't fit properly. It might work with an M3, but my hardware store didn't carry any.

Yep. #6-32 nut and 2" screw seems to fit perfectly. Thanks!

I dont think i get how this works?! printing it l up and ut it to gather but not seeing how to raise and lower the jack

I'll try my best to describe this. The jack is composed of three parts being 1) the upper wedge 2) the lower wedge 3) the frame. The lower wedge has the nut in it. The screw goes through the hole in the frame and screws into the nut that is in the lower wedge. When you turn the screw tighter it pulls the lower wedge towards that side of the frame.
Now when you add the upper wedge on top of the lower wedge, like in the pictures, you get the lifting action. As the lower wedge is pulled by the screw it forces the upper wedge up. The upper wedge is caught in the frame so up is the only way it can go when the lower wedge pushes into it.
I hope that explains it.