MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.

Download Now


Customizable stereographic picture projector v3 highres

by threonin Feb 8, 2017
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

Can I use iPhone LED flashlight as the light source?

Do we need to invert colors for it to show properly?

No, you don't have to invert it.

The heat sink is very difficult to find.

You can change the dimensions in the Customizer or in OpenSCAD, if you use another cooler. This can be modified with the variables cooler_radius and cooler_height.

The openscad file doesn't appear to work with the stock settings and image as of OpenSCAD 2015.03. I have the build plate module but it says mixing 2d and 3d objects is not supported and doesn't supply the line number that generated the warning.

Update: you need to change the output from "preview" to "projector" to get it to spit out a real model. Compile time took like 5 minutes. I'll probably remake this as a python script so I can make the code parallel for better performance and realtime light previews with Eevee.

The issue with the performance are the boolean operations, the projection is generated pretty fast. When you only run create_projector() it takes only a couple of seconds.

customizer not working error runtime

Seems like Customizer is working again, I see some remixes popping up again. The Customizer app has been broken on all of thingiverse for a couple of months. Not sure if it is already reliable though.

please help me
this link http://jsfiddle.net/threonin/6dr8qu41/ not work
not genrate code
and openscad have error

thank you

I fixed the fiddle, seems the old Mootools version was not supported anymore, I upgraded to the new one.

customizer not working error runtime

Comments deleted.

i can't generate my pic in customizer once i clicked create thing it displays error in queue

Is there a way to do these battery powered and wall mountable? I have an idea for a hallway with projected images both sides.

how many hours takes to print?

Depends on your settings, with 0.3mm resolution and 60mm/sec the projector took between 9,5 and 10 hours for me. The lamp chassis I don't remember, but this is not as long and a easy print.

it took me 12 hours just the base of the projector, then i cancelled. i'm new on 3d printing, can you give me any suggestion to improve time? also, there is any way to make it smaller? i've opened in cura and the size was 8.5 itches. in you picture looks much smaller.
greetings, and thank you for this useful design!

On the pictures it looks smaller than it actually is, I printed everything at 100%.
I'm using Simplify3D and not Cura, but the principles are the same. The time depends mainly on the layer height and the print speed, I used 0.3mm and 60mm/secs, if you use smaller layer height and slower speed it will take longer. Of course it depends on what your printer can handle. If you are new to 3D printing you should probably start with some easier prints until you know the basics and the common problems, when a very long running print fails this can be very frustrating, I also learned this the hard way.

thats so true. i'll listen to you. million thanks!

How can I print this to project at an angle? I want to set it standing on a table and project on a wall. I want to set the projector on the table here and project it on the wall to the right of the TV and another version to the left of the TV.

i was thinking you can try to disort the image to match the wall´s perspective

Sorry, but I don't think this is going to work. The wall thickness is already pretty much at its minimum, shearing it like this would make it absolutely unprintable.

This projector needs to be parallel to the wall, so projecting from an angle will not work. You could try mounting it to some tripod.

how much the program takes to finish the customized stl file and send it to me?

With Customizer it can vary very much, depending how busy the server is. You can expect it to be finished in a couple hours, sometimes it is faster.

What size should it be? I'm using a Makerbot Replicator 5th Gen and it comes out a lot bigger than the one in your pictures.

I printed them at 100%, they are 15x15x12.6cm.
Probably they look smaller due to perspective and my relatively big hands.

Instructions are unclear. I don't understand the steps on what to do

Basically the Customizer does everything for you, you just have to click "Open in Customizer" and upload your picture. All my makes were done with the default settings, so you don't have to change those.

it's very large. What happen if I scale it smaller?

It will probably not slice correctly anymore if you scale it too small. Also the lamp body would not fit if you want to use it.

My lamp don't have small hold? Can you help me, please?

What do you mean?

Oh, now, I know how to do it! I found variable "part". Thank you very much!

WARNING: Mixing 2D and 3D objects is not supported.
WARNING: Ignoring 2D child object for 3D operation
WARNING: Ignoring 2D child object for 3D operation.
So, lamp don't have small hold for light passing.

I must be missing something but what do i do with the output from the JSFiddle site? Anyone have a guide?

Hey, I was wondering what the usable distance from lamp to wall approximately is? I would love to make lamps out of this in my hallway.

It depends on how big you want the projected picture to be. With 30cm distance it is about 1m in diameter, with 60cm distance about 2m.

Oh wow that's big. I'll definitely try it out! Thanks!

Threonin- To say this is pretty awesome is an understatement. Nice work!
I made a custom one and it didn't turn out as I wanted. I published here for reference
So, I am currently printing your Einstein version very slowly and at 0.2mm layer height and the max scale that will fit on the bed (90%)
I have a couple of debugging and set-up questions:
The customizer has an invert image button. I used it. (I'm used to inverting images when making lithophanes)
1) Am I supposed to invert the image if I want it to come out normal? As I decipher my projection, it makes me think "No"
2) Where is the light source supposed to be? at the center of the sphere, correct?
3) Are you using a deposition type printer or an SLA printer? Looking at the holes at the top of the sphere, makes me think that you have an SLA printer.
4) Is there an orientation feature somewhere? Thread starts at bottom or somesuch? Orientation is obvious when it works. I'm just wondering for debugging purposes.
You probably already answered these questions somewhere. Just point me at that and I will read up myself.
Dankeschön. -Joe


You definitely have to invert/mirror the image for correct projection! I'm a photographer and I can tell you that is a law of optics! Obviously you can't see in something symmetric but anything else, especially apparent with words or logos will be projected right to left if you don't mirror them first.

Thank you! I will gladly answer your questions.
1) No, you are not supposed to invert the image. The brighter the pixel, the bigger the hole will be.
2) The light source is not at the center, but at the north pole. This design features a screw on lamp body that will hold an LED exactly in the right place. If you look at the sixth picture you will see the 10W LED chip mounted on a cooler. If you scale the design you will not be able to fit them anymore, a better idea would be to decrease inner and outer radius in the design and set cooler height and radius to the dimensions of the parts you have. I linked the parts I used in amazon.de, on amazon.com you can find them here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019DZ2122 , https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NQ9NJCS
I had the issue that I could not slice the design anymore when scaling it down anymore, but if you already managed to decrease it to 90% I guess your slicer can handle it, I used Simplify3D.
3) No, I use two Flashforge Creator Pros. At the top the prints are not perfect, on my 2015 model there even was a slight hole, probably due to bad calibration: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2111102 . The prints on my 2016 model worked fine, only a bit of sanding on the inside and cleaning some of the holes with a small hex key or similar tool was required. I printed them with 0.3mm resolution and 60mm/sec.
4) Thread should be at the bottom, so the default orientation is correct. At least this is how I printed it. Any other orientation would not have a good contact with the build plate and require support. On the other hand flipping it may help with decreasing overhang angles and the center would probably be cleaner if the support comes off nicely. I did not include a feature to switch orientation in the script, would not be hard to do if it is needed.

Charles Darwin Stereographic Projector

You definitely have to invert/mirror the image for correct projection! I'm a photographer and I can tell you that is a law of optics! Obviously you can't see in something symmetric but anything else, especially apparent with words or logos will be projected right to left if you don't mirror them first.

True, the image is mirrored when projected. Didn't give it much thought, but for words or logos this would indeed be a problem. It is an easy fix tough. The original question was about the colors being inverted, which they should not be.

Thanks for the quick response.
North Pole! Got it!

Orientation for printing is good to go.
My question was about orientation of the image in the part. I'm rotating it around and around looking for something definitive in my image. If the image bottom or top was someplace discernible with relation to the part, I might have better luck debugging. Or not. With the image inverted it's tough.

I'm looking forward to my Einstein print!!! Thanks again for the tremendous design and great work on the customizer! -Joe

The image is much better visible from some distance, standing directly in front of it may make it harder to make out. It is like looking at a heavily zoomed in picture, up close you only see the dots and farther away they merge together. Also if you don't use the lamp body you need to position the light manually, here you can see that in version 2 that did not have the thread: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1923764

Customizable stereographic picture projector v2 highres

hi threonin ~
your openscad file show up something wrong?? help me pls~
WARNING: Can't open include file 'utils/build_plate.scad'.
Parser error in line 92: syntax error

ERROR: Compilation failed!

Hi, this is just the build plate library: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:44094
You can either ignore the warning or download it and put it in a subfolder "utils" in the same directory as the scad file. It is only used for preview so it is not necessary for rendering.

Build Plate Library for Customizer

oh thank you so much but still show up error so i cant compile

Parser error in line 195: syntax error

ERROR: Compilation failed!

There shouldn't be a syntax error, did you maybe accidentally change a line? Does it work when you try it with the unmodified file? Which OpenSCAD version are you using? I did this with 2015.03.

Oh okay~~ I will try it again thank you so much
you are so kind !:)

Have you solve your problem yet? I have the same problem as yours,but still not fix it……

Looks like it still times out. Good idea though.

I improved performance by another 18%, can you try again? I just tried it with an all white picture, this should be the maximum complexity, and it worked.

Hm, I will try to improve performance some more, but I'm not sure I can get significant performance improvements anymore without a major rewrite.

hello i download utils/build_plate.scad (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:44094/#comments)
there is something wrong with my projector

WARNING: Mixing 2D and 3D objects is not supported.
WARNING: Ignoring 2D child object for 3D operation
WARNING: Ignoring 2D child object for 3D operation

could you help me thank you

Build Plate Library for Customizer

Hi, you are trying to render the preview part, you need to set the variable "part" to "projector" or "lamp".

ok i will try again thank you very much

i have tried this in the customizer a few times not really sure what is wrong. i have changing the image with and without a 85 x 85 picture. thinking scaling down before upload might help. not sure what im doing wrong?

The image should be scaled automatically, this should not be the problem. What is happening, is the generation failing some time after you click "Create thing"? Maybe it is the timeout again, I thought I had that fixed with some performance improvements. If it is the timeout it could work if there is more black in the image, then the generated geometry becomes simpler. The messages from Customizer sadly are not very helpful in debugging.

cheers ill try that and up the contrast to have more black!

hi threonin ~when I saw your stereographic projection, I hoped to make it also! It's a challenge to make! So I searches it up on YouTube and the Internet but...I couldn't find how to make that design...can you teach me how to make that style? The "stereographic projection" for a lamp? And I use "Solid works" program, will it work with that? Or should I use "openscad"? and actually i hope studying~ how to make...

I already answered that the first time, no need to post it on every thing.

Oh yes that is right but idk why I can't find my commant
can u teach me again?? pls~~
i hope realllly make it sorry threonin

Haven't you gotten a notification? It is here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:294899/#comments

Customizable stereographic projection

How much time it have to render ? the progress bar isn't moving for me ... :/

13min 50sec on a 6 year old Lenovo Ideapad q560 with i7 q740 and 8GB of RAM.

8min 6sec on a 6700k with 32GB RAM, but only 6GB were used.

Depends on your machine, isn't it finished by now? It never took nearly as long as an hour, if it is not finished yet you probably ran out of RAM. I want to improve performance a bit when I have some time, this also seems to be the problem with Customizer. Maybe Sunday I will get to it.

Hi there...
First of all, let me tell you.

Your designs are awesome!!!!
The stereographic are beautiful.

I'm contacting you to ask you if you can help me on how to edit the stereographic.
(Valentine's coming xD)
I'm really new to 3d printing.
Basically i only donwload the stl's from thingiverse and print it xD (and sometimes it gets rought LOL).

So can you tell me the procedure to edit it?...Do i need any program like a CAD or need some design skills? (i have none :( ).

Once again TY for your desings, AWESOME!

Sry for my english, not my mother language xD

I already have the image array, and pasted it on openscad that i download.

Now wath should i do?
I did "render", but the "ball" seems the same.(all covered, like no holes in it)

i exported the stl and no holes xD i'm really bad at this xD

Thank you!
You need to switch the variable "part" to "projector" or "lamp" for the lamp chassis. Customizer automatically creates all parts, but is currently broken, for it I created the "preview" part which you are now creating, this has no holes.

Does this really print OK with no support, as you say in your print settings? I'd expect the top of the sphere to cave and squish.

I never used support, for me it worked. The top is indeed not as clean as the rest of the print, but still stable. If you are unsure you can use supports, but it needs to come off cleanly.

this is Huge! how much should i scale it down?

The problem is, if you scale it down, it probably will not slice anymore. I have been trying around for some time to get the maximum resolution for a given size so it still works with Simplify3D. Maybe with a smaller nozzle or another Slicer you can go lower than that. There are also some relevant settings in the scad file in the projector section, it is quite possible that there are better combinations than the one I found. As long as you can still slice it you can scale it all you want, but details may also go missing if your printer can't handle it, also the better option would be to decrease outer and inner radius settings, scaling the stl could lead to very thin walls, now they are at 1.5mm. Also for the lamp part the LED cooler would not fit anymore if you are using the one I linked, so changing settings with OpenSCAD or the Customizer is needed if you want to make it into a lamp. Currently the Customizer seems to have some issues, this is probably due to the complexity, so you would need to do it locally in OpenSCAD.
The easier option is to use the low resolution version which is much smaller: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2078413
Picture resolution and radius scale linear, so doubling the resolution makes it necessary to double the radius as well to keep the same level of detail. If the low res version does not have enough detail for you you could aim for something in between.

Customizable stereographic picture projector v3

Hi, What version of OpenScad are you using to generate the 3d model from the image?
I'm getting these warnings when rendering:
WARNING: Mixing 2D and 3D objects is not supported.
WARNING: Ignoring 2D child object for 3D operation
WARNING: Ignoring 2D child object for 3D operation

Then the sphere doesn't have any holes in it. It's plain and obviously wont let any light out if i print it.

Hi, the thing consists of multiple parts, the preview is selected by default so it does not break Customizer, rendering an accurate preview would time out and it is also not correctly displayed. When using the script locally you need to set the variable "part" to "projector" and "lamp" to get the respective part, Customizer automatically creates all of them. The 2D objects is just the text stating that it is just a preview, if it is not visible you are maybe on an older version, I am using 2015.03.

Got it. Thank you for the quick reply. I'm rendering the projector right now :)

Edit: It printed great and the projection on the wall is great as well. Thank you very much for sharing your work.

Comments deleted.

Hi toefreeman,

This has been almost a year since i troubleshooted this issue. Unfortunately i dont remember the details. :(
I remember that following threonin’s instruction to the letter made me realize i did something wromg. I just dont rememeber what hehe.
Sorry about that. I hope you find the issue quickly.