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LulzBot TAZ 6 Remix Custom

by ant0ny Jan 23, 2017
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Ok I downloaded the STL from Lulzbot TAZ 5.0 and no the centers are 40mm.

Hi Antony,

What is the center distance between the lead screw and the 10mm smooth rod on the Z?

Just curious if it was the same as what a TAZ 5 has.

Sorry for the delay.

50mm center smoothrod and center of ledscrew.

Since you know quite a bit about TAZes, does a TAZ 5 also have a 50mm center distance between its smoothrod and leadscrew?

Hi Antony,

In your description you say that the Z axis uses 10mm smooth rod and 10x2 leadscrew with 608Z bearing at bottom only but has provision for top bearing. I had to look in the comments to see if you turned down the leadscrew and you did.

For those who don't have the capability to machine a 10mm lead screw and don't want to use a 8mm one, would you consider making a version of the top and bottom Z pieces that used a 6000ZZ Bearing which is 10x26x8.

Edit: Looking at the older comments, I think this is the same nut you use.
What are the dimension of the leadscrew nut that you use? The 10x2 nut that I have has the holes 24mm apart (top to bottom, left to right), 16mm at the smallest point and 32mm across the top.

While I am putting together a wish list here, how about making alternate x pieces that use 10mm rods all the way around. I already have extra 10mm rods. I am just looking to make a 300x300x300.

The top bearing is optional. I only used it once on a printer that the customer insisted on IGUS bearings, shafts and leadscrews. The IGUS stuff being so expensive and near perfect I had no issues using a top bearing.

Top bearing I used was a 62900ZZ 10x22x8. You could also use a 6900Z 10x22x6 it thinner but that wouldn't matter.

For your setup use a 62900 on the bottom and a 10mm shaft collar.

For using 10mm in the Xaxis is fine but I find chinese 10mm not as straight as 12mm... someone used a 10 to 12mm brass bush... I'll see f I can find a link on that.

As far as bearings go, would 10x22x7 work too? The guy at aliexpress said that the 6290zz bearing they have is really that dimension.

Thanks for the info on the 62900 bearings. I will see about pricing out some 62900 and 6900 bearings.

I didn't think about using a bushing. Yes please let me know about that 10mm to 12mm brash bushing.

No probs

The 6900 might be easier to get but just remember they are 2mm narrower so make sure the 10mm shaft collar you get is less than 22mm OD other wise it may touch on the body of the housing.

Ok on ebay here are the bushings I was thinking of.


Now the last issue will be the X carriage will need to take the 10mm bearings.

10mm linear bearings are 19mm OD and 12mm Linear bearings are 21mm OD.

I remember having a bearing block drawn for this. I will find them and upload them and let you know.

There are two shaft couplers 5mmx10mm that I saw and they have diameters of 16mm and 19mm respectively. So I have that covered.

Ok, I found some of those exact bushings on Aliexpress. Have that covered.

Let me know about the bearing blocks. Thanks.

Ok I have added 10mm bearings holders for the X carriage. These are untested but should print and be a good fit.

Thanks Antony!


Where does the Z and Y end stops mount ? I see the holes for the X but not the Y and Z axis.

Z axis end stop is BLTouch or you could use other type induction sensor etc if you design a holder.

Y end stop is either micro switch in the printed Y axis plate and if you look at the part Y_axis_motor_endplate you will see the place for the end stop. This about to be changed to a simpler Y axis and as soon as I get time I will update and change this whole "Thing" and has a simple holder for the micro switch when I upload the files.

I see. I just got my micro switches in today I see how they fit in now and I noticed you did mention the bltouch I just didn't pay close enough attention. Thanks for the explanation.

I have one more question. I have a 330mmx330mmx6mm aluminum bed with In the pictures you have a bed plate for a 200x300 but do you have any recommendations on a bed plate for bigger beds ?

I try to always use PCB heated bed and Borrosilicate glass plate. It is significantly lighter than some of the aluminum heated beds at 300x300. https://www.reprap.me/pcb300x300.html this is 24v

In Australia you can get a 12v 300x300 at https://3dtek.xyz/products/300-x-300mm-3d-printer-heated-bed but you have to make sure you use a good power supply and Mosfet style power expander and not try to run the power straight from the motherboard.

Those links are very helpful thanks. I think I'll pick up one of those pcb heated beds. How would I attach it to the y axis ?

Ok go to the pics and scroll to the last 6 and you can see a preview of the new Y axis.

SBR12 rails x 500 with 3x Bearing blocks (or 4 if you prefer)
1x 2020 x 200 aprox
1x 2040 x 200 aprox or 2 x 2020 side by side and use these https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2160166

Bed Plate
2x 2020 x 287
1x 5mm Ali plate 140 x 310 (or width of heated bed plate)
4x 2020 Ali angle brackets for the PCB Heated Bed spring mounts

Printed parts are not uploaded yet. This is just to give you an idea.

now depending on your time frame there is en even better Y axis I have designed (in my head) and I just ordered the parts so it will be a while but replaces the SBR12 rails with Openbuilds bearing blocks. I expect these to run smoother with less resistance or drag to the SBR Linear ball bearings but untill I test it I wont release any details.

This system I have used and I have build 4 commercial printers (not Lulzbot design a better one) up to 500x500 bed with good results. The openbuilds bearing blocks I feel will just be smoother per cost... you could buy far better linear bearing but they are expensive.

OpenBuilds V Slot Joiner
by ant0ny

Yes there is a titan bracket named E3D_Titan_Holder_Lulzbot which holds the Titan and a BLTouch

This has 3 captive nuts and bolt through the X carriage from the back. There are a few sets of holes as I was looking at dual Titans but I never did it and so just the on center holes apply.

The bracket height is set for a STD E3D V6 hotend and BLTouch with shims to give a little more adjustment for the BLtouch.

I'm kinda stumped. how are you mounting hot ends to the x-carriage? I can see some sort of vertical bracket in the images and i'm assuming is the titan holder, but i thought i would ask.

This is a great project and I'm ordering the aluminum now....

It looks like you are using the mks 1.4... do you have the firmware available?



MKS Gen 1.4 and Ramps 1.4 only not MKS Base 1.4

With the Z axis height those lengths only give you 250mm in Z. If you want to go a true 300 to make it 300x300x300 then add at least 50mm to the Aluminum for Z, 10mm Z axis smooth rods and lead screws.

I am just waiting for vslot nuts to start a new build and there are a few changes so hold off this week printing parts.

Very cool. I'm going bigger... 600 x beams and 600 y rails... 500 on the Z beams so I should get 450x450x350 ish...

That will do just fine.

Just be aware all the printers I build 400x400 and 500x500 in Cartesian style suffer from the mass of the bed. and print speeds go down considerably.

On the Y axis you will need to get 10mm GT2 belt (which will be in my Y axis update).

If you can get a PCB style bed with 3mm Borrosilicate glass plate you can reduce the weight and moving mass in Y. If you get the Aluminium plate style bed which is extremely heavy you might need to consider a new but yet bult Yaxis idea and replace the 12mm supported rail with a Openbuilds style Gantry Bearing to reduce the drag by heaps... let me know and I can explain this better.

How's this looking?

Next week I will be building another from scratch with all the latest changes, added and not yet added.

I will systematically review all the files as I go and update.

Is there any Current STEP files for this? A Pack and go would be cool but I own SW 2014 so STEP is likely the best option. I mainly need the X-Ends so that I can tweak it to the parts I have laying around. 2 of my printers are going to be converted to this design. 1 as is and the other to use OpenBuilds X & Y carriages. Very nice work! My 100% Laywood MendelMax 1.5 is 3 hours into its firs 9-hour build plate right now!

Sent you a PM see if that works for you if not I'll look into it in a week or so.

hi guys,
anyone here has a link to the 3 parts y-axis frame on lulz 6 and other versions instead of this big printable STL version?

Not quite sure what you mean but are you after the genuine TAZ 6 files?

If so here https://download.lulzbot.com/TAZ/

you know how lulzbot does not uses this printed Y axis end frame and has separate motor mount and idler that mounts to another flat frame with 2 separate legs on each side to hold the extrusion and its rods.
that flat file is the one I'm looking for. whatever I see on here are those one piece of Y frame for both ends.
** I already check their file in https://download.lulzbot.com/TAZ/ , it has everything except that flat end frame. check the lulz picture folder. you'll get a better idea what i'm referring to

All Lulzbot did was instead of having one endplate each end with all the parts in a simple layout. They have 4 or 5 parts and umpteen amount of screw holding them all together... good to help align but bad when they all come loose.

Lol and not to mention the non adjustable belt tension setup.

The end plate is on their site... for plastic printed parts you have to look in printed_parts directory and for the metal parts you have to look at the machined_parts directory.

I am still having problems with the Z axis motors. I have 800mm threaded rods. 10mm diameter. Grinded them down to 8mm on the bottom like you said. I have 68 oz-in motors on them. Running at 5 mm/s max feed rate, 3200 steps/unit, 100 mm/s max acceleration. Z gets stuck. We rose up the motors off the bench, leveled them, leveled the frame. What should the Vref read off of the potentiometer and the corner pin of the drivers?

When you say "grind" they have to be precise enough so done in a lathe?

VREF I pickup the earth (-) from the power supply to make it easy and Positive (+) to the center of the pot you adjust. Mine measures about 0.9v.

Right now a federate of 2.5 mm/min seems to be ok but I am surprised with how much grinding I am getting out of the Misumi lead screws. Do you think 800mm length and 10mm diameter lead screws is to heavy for it?

I changed mine to 0.9v. I used a center grinder to get more accuracy. I grinded them down to 7.5mm though so they fit in the bearings ok. should they be tight inside the bearings or loose?

Doesn't need to be tight but on center... just put a bit of tape around it to make sure it is centered.

My 10mm leadscrew is 450mm but it shouldnt matter unless it is so long it is trying to lay over and jaming? maybe.

Anthony, thank you so much for sending me the step files, I know you had to work to get those to me and I appreciate it very much (would buy you a case of beer if you are in MN lol). I have a design q for you. I am getting a lot of problems with the Z motors. Basically. When I drive them up they like to jam, especially when they are very low on the printer. Do the z axis motors sit directly parallel with the frame, or should I mount them up above the frame a bit? Do they sit right on the bench with the frame? Also, do the lead screws sit directly on top of the motor shafts inside of the couplers? Or should I set them up a little bit higher so they do not touch the motor shafts inside the couplers? I had to center grind the lead screws I have to fit the 8mm coupler and one has just a tiny bit of thread left over, but I have them on top of washers so I don't think its the cause of my z motor problems. Please let me know, thanks again this is a great build.

I have the Z motors sitting a few mm above the bottom of the frame... so the bottom of the motor doesn't touch the table or bench top the printer is sitting on.

The idea of the coupler is to allow for misalignment of the motor and the shaft and to help smooth out a little of the acceleration and deceleration of the motor to a degree. So the motor shaft and leadscrew should be not touching inside the coupler.

You need to make sure first you have no mechanical issues. Look to make sure the top to bottom of the leadscrew and smooth rods is parallel. make sure the frame is parallel from left to right. Make sure the leadscrew nuts aren't getting to a spot on the leadscrew and is tight. if you have a bearing at the top remove it and see if it is better.

If that all looks ok you need to make sure the Z drivers VREF voltage is correct and either to low and not enough to run both motors or too height and skipping steps.

If you cant get it better, take some pics and send them to me... of your mechanical setup of Z.

Awesome will check for mechanical issues like you said and take a look at the Vref. I have A4988s and DRV8825s but the DRVs are just sitting in my stock. Can I plug the DRV's right into the spot where the A4988s are without circuit problems (assuming I insert them in the correct orientation)? If you are using the same parts I assume they should be parallel but I only checked for the top and bottom of my frame to be parallel not the sides or diagonally, will do tomorrow. Thanks buddy!

With DRV8825s yes... they are what I use for everything. yes you will have to make sure they are the correct orientation then set the VREF ... as all the ones I get are always set to like 1.7v or so. Set to about 0.7v as a start and see how it goes. I have my X and Y set at about 0.75v but my Z is 0.9 and I have cooling on my board... this has run like that since November.

Z motors wont get too warm as they do nothing much but keep an eye on the Z driver and make sure it's not over heating.

When I set up any printer I get it so it does say a Benchy with no issues and temps of drivers and motors are good. Then I test the Z by doing the Benchy again with Z lift say 1mm on every retraction and if it goes without over heating or missing a step... I call that done.

I am considering using your ideas to base my next printer on. I have a couple of THK linear rails and carriages and am adapting them to your design. I was wondering if you could share your original drawings as well, as editing stl files is a real pain!
Thanks for your hard work! Your printer is amazing!

I had major problems getting the crappy STL files into Inventor and making them usable. I just spent more than a day recently trying to turn them into STEP files (and every other format) to send to another person on here and I only had a few that actually exported. So the short answer is no unless you use AutoCAD Inventor I can try to send you the IPT files.

The files are Open Source and so you can just download the originals from LulzBot as I did. https://download.lulzbot.com/TAZ/ my files are based on version 6.0 and as you will see there are 2 more releases since then.

I am thinking of making a 400400400 version of this printer (but with a4988 drivers on ramps 1.4 and an arduino mega). How stable will it be scaled up to this size and how long would it be in the y axis. I am also thinking of making a custom build plate using nichrome wire (resistance wire) held to window glass with kapton tape. The top of the glass would be covered in PEI and the bottom would have the thermistor and be insulated with exhaust wrap (per this guide http://airtripper.com/698/resistance-wire-heated-build-platform-diy-tutorial/).

It should scale ok this was the reason I did this in the first place. With 3D printers or any CNC machines your issue will be the error you get when you increase the axis length. The second issue is the weight of the axis and in this case the Y axis. The more you increase the weight the harder it is to control. You have to make the Y axis bed as light as possible.

Ramps is fine I use ramps but you should get DRV8825 drivers as you will be pushing more weight. You should get biggest Nema 17 motors I used these http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Stepper-Motor-Nema-17-Bipolar-84oz-in-59Ncm-CNC-3D-Printer-Reprap-Robot-/171839821266?hash=item28027395d2:g:zVkAAOSw9r1V8oYB for the extruder get the smaller lightest you can.

You can build a heater from scratch but for not much you can just buy a silicone heater pad. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/400mm-X-400mm-220V-600W-with-K-TypeThermocouple-with-3M-1-PC-Silicone-Pad-Heater-/141992568170?hash=item210f6aa56a:g:sh0AAOSw8d9UuxjY

As for Y axis length you have to consider how far the bed travels with the spacing of the Y axis bearings. Cut up some cardboard to the sizes you are thinking draw on the bearing blocks and see what gives you the travel you need. If I was to guess you may get away with 600mm but remember you cant have the Y axis bearing too close together.

I plan on doing a variation of your design, changing for exact stock size of 20 mm square tube, and electronic placements. I was currious if you could supply the creo files so i could do the slight modifications that i need, rather than trying to shrink wrap the needed parts so everything aligns up right. great build, i will share as i build. going to use a rambo 1.4v motherboard

Fantastic build, I was planning on converting my frankenwanhao Di3 over to a taz 6 but I like what you have done so this is next on my list after my D-Bot is done. My plan is to go with a 300x200 bed , Sainsmart 2in1 board with Pololu A4988 black edition but use my Flexion extruder with this setup. How has the 12mm Supported Liner Rails worked out and do you think they justify the cost? I was also looking to possibly try the OpenRail™ Gantry Plate for the y axis.

thanks. The 12mm supported rail works very well. this machine has worked all day everyday since November without a hitch. The 12mm Supported rail pair with bearings only cost $59AUS pretty cheap, openbuilds parts can work out pretty expensive.

I am also building a OpenBuilds printer http://openbuilds.org/builds/3d-printbot-500x500x500.4469/ and because of the size and weight I used the same 12mm rails.

If you stick to 300x200 bed he openrail will work nice from what I have seen.

Yea those parts add up quickly, this D-Bot has set me back a bit should be worth every penny. What length rails would I need for a 300x200 bed, , 400-450mm? Forgive me I am brain farting lol but not sure all what extra distance I need. I want to run the bed horizontally so the printer will be wider then longer.

as the parts list

SBR12 12mm Supported Linear Rail (Y axis)
2x 500

For some reason I was thinking it was larger, once I got home and measured my Wanhao and space 500mm works perfect. Ordered a set today from ebay, best price I found was on eBay for $51.99 USD. http://r.ebay.com/EzKYOn.

Ordered up the openbuilds rails now time to locate the rods. Any good resources you recommend? Also tracked down a Flexion Extruder mount for the Taz6. Can't​ wait to ditch my Wanhao for this! Thanks again.

Unless you buy from IGUS or a proper CNC machine supplier that garrentee their shafts... it's all hit and miss. I find way more success in buying 10 and 12mm smoothrod than when we used to get 8mm banana shaped rubbish. All my stuff is from ebay but I check them before using them.

Hey Antony, just wanted to tell you I printed most of your parts and they are excellent. Nice work buddy! Had another question, how exactly does the belt tensioner work? I see where it goes as far as the pulley gear end but how about the opposite side where its square?

On the X axis? I am uploading 3 pics of the X axis belt tensioner.

It uses:

2x M4 x 25mm for the adjuster

M5 x 20mm to hold the belt idler pulley

Sounds good I have those parts in order and will try and figure out Thier assembly. The 12mm shaft holder on the bottom of the x carriage, the smaller one, printed a little big for the bearing. About 0.5 to 1 mm to large in diameter. Any suggestions on a good epoxy to fill in the gap so I can keep the bearing from sliding out?

No don't try to use any epoxy. Just use some insulation tape or similar. I'll check the file tonight.

hi Anthony and everyone else
I have been thinking over the last couple of weeks and due to budget constraints (mortgage) i am now not going to make the luzbob taz. instead I'm going to make a Prusa I3 mk2. It's a cheaper and easier make for a beginner like me.
go here to see:

No probs... We all start with a nice easy small printer... mine was a Geeetech I3 back in the early days... a good stepping stone to something much more exciting.

Good luck with the new adventure... this will be here in the future... unless lulzbot decide to give me funds to shut it down lol.

Thank you for the reply. One more question, can you tell me the Outer Diameter Dimensions of the LM10LUU and the LM12UU. I just wanna make sure I buy some that won't require rework. Thank you

First link by google search

LM10LUU 10x19x55mm Long


LM12UU Outside Dimensions: 21.00mm x 30.00mm

What is the diameter of the x axis smooth rods? I ordered 10mm but it looks like these are for 12mm. Please let me know

The X axis smoothrods are 12mm This was most likely done by Lulzbot to overcome the sag they would have gotten by putting on the behemoth extruder setup they had.

Personally this is a good thing and if they stretched their minds a little more they would have used 12mm for the Z as well. not because it needs to be that strong but because the cheap smooth rods we all torture our selves with from ebay seem to be straighter the larger the rod... which makes sense... and less likely to be bent in transport of handling as well.

Hi - this looks like very nice work .. and interested to build.

A few questions:

1) in the thing details you have 2 x 500mm and 2 x 510 mm .. I'm assuming that is for each frame - or total: 4 x 500mm & 4 x 510mm?

2) What is the advantage of using the 10mm lead screw? It would seem with the 10mm smooth shaft + 8mm lead screw (which most use) it would be stable - and easier to have the parts / bearings, connectors, etc.

3) Do we need to use the LulzBot TAZ 6 build instructions to get the rest of the parts - bearings, pulleys, under bed assembly, etc - and other instructions? .. or where can we get more details as to how this all goes together?

4) How do we buy you a beer to not use the set-screw inserts? ;)

5) I noticed in your pics that the lead screw is much taller than the shaft - is that just 'cause' .. or is there a reason - and could one then make the frame taller to utilize more of the lead screw? I assume the 500x510 frame is the size needed for the specified lead screws?

6) the screws you showed .. wasn't sure if it was >80 for each of M5x8 & M5x10 ... looks like the first size was a M5x80 which didn't seem right.

I've built a D-Bot core XY - but this one seems simpler in design and function - and I have left over parts I think I can use (e.g. 8mm lead screws, etc)

Thanks again for a great build.

1 oops yep I'll fix that... thanks

2 no major advantage but saying that though... with a 10mm thread and moving only 2mm per revolution it runs way smoother than my other conventional TR8x8... someone with the knowledge of this might have a mathematical answer. The original TAZ 6 uses 12mm leadscrew.

3 This not a kit. I do build complete 3D printers as a business and if you want a quote ask.

4 lol... you could through me the price of a beer at the "Tip Designer" popup that everyone ignores every time we all download a file from Thingi.

I could insert 10 answers here... but If you are serious about 3D printing then CAD design is a skill you need... how many vases downloaded and printed does it take for people to realise this.

I can do a quick design... if you do decide (or anyone reading this) let me know and I will do it.

5 That was the length of the leadscrew. If you have read through the comments I have answered this about the leadscrew. If you use other than 8mm leadscrew you have to machine the end of the leadscrew to go through the bearing that is taking the Z/X axis load and into the coupler... this length is aprox 30mm. If you use a 8mm leadscrew you have to used a color to lock onto the leascrew to shoulder against the same bearing.

the whole idea around openbuilds is that it's adaptable other than the fact it's strong for it weight and now well supported with bolt on bits etc. You can make this as big as you want. Only thing about big is the longer the axis the bigger the change for error and the more likely the cheap parts we all buy from ebay will be bent. This is the reason most 3D printer commercially made are only 200x200... for them to compete in market they have to meet a pricepoint and so the cheaper the crap they use the smaller the unit to allow for error. Lulzbot just made a slightly better unit using slightly better bits done pretty badly but earned huge praise for it... good on them I say.

Back to your Q... leadscrew is normally the way we are limited, so buy that then cut your 2020 to match.

6 You need T nuts for the 2020 frame I said 80+ as I didn't count them and the frame is basic so you may want to hang stuff off it like motherboard, filament spool, mirror to look at yourself grin as you realizes you have save a thousand dollars.

My pleasure and again I understand people get spooked by something not having instruction and a build list... if you have build any 3D printer before you will work it out... it's not that hard... plus think of the skills you might pickup.

ant0ny - thanks for your quick - and great response.

I've been studying the assembly guides over on LulzBot/OHAI .. and I think I can pick up the parts and other info there as I need - though I'm sure I'll be back here asking other questions .. for instance:

It looks like they are using either NinjaFlex bushings or some plastic bushing .. I've used some very nice 'self-leveling' bearings recommend on other builds - forum post (https://goo.gl/HtDaUK) .. bearings (https://goo.gl/WHKBh3) though they only go up to 10mm.

What do you recommend for those parts?

Do you see any advantage for using Anti-Backlash Z-Nuts for this build?

Will this current size build (500x510 frame, base) accommodate a 300x300 build plate - or does it need to sized up?

As I mentioned before - I have just completed (well .. still tweaking) a large build D-Bot Core XY - I"m using a DuetWifi controller which I really like - so I'm not to afraid to jump in on this .. and I do have some pretty good skills using 3D CAD software (currently using Fusion360) and have had to deisgn or modify many parts for my build - and other projects.

Having said that - I still love to see what others do, 'cause many brains make for better stuff ;)
And so .. though I don't drink beer (strange to some I know) .. so I'm not sure what it actually costs .. I've donated a tip for you - if you're willing to do a design for another option instead of the set screws.

And .. any possibility of getting step files of your designs?

Again - thanks so much for sharing this info!!

Yes as you have seen the build is fairly straight forward compared to other builds. I will go and update the build list with as much info as I can with part links to mainly ebay.

personally I see no reason for using them. I would adapt the bearing to fit the part rather than change the part... as that will give you the option to try other bearings.

I will take a pic of the printer with the 300x300 bed in place to show you. I'll put it in the build blog.

Good you have CAD skills... and the dig was more to the wider thingiverse than at you personally. Sorry for the rant.

Yes I saw the beer money... thanks. You are a fine man. It does get me thinking though about the many people on Youtube that get money to talk shit... and yet on Thingi there are some very very good designers, (not me I'm a hack compared) who most likely get nothing for their hours and hours of CAD design... universe can be a bitch.

Yes I have a design in my head I'll attempt to get it done on the weekend. @pigbob I think you may have printed you Z/X axis bits but if you hold off this could be an option.

The Brass inserts are something everyone should try... they are frigin great things and from a design point of view, make things easier/small and look way better in some cases.

Hey Antony
I've run out of filament so progress has stalled...
great to see others getting involved too.

(EDIT: I did some more research and found these bearing/bushings on McMaster Carr - 12mm https://goo.gl/iFNg2w ... full page: https://goo.gl/TMYStT)

They do look like a nice bearing. this will give you a small problem as they are only 15mm OD and the parts are designed for 21mm OD.

I do prefer a ball bearing over bush bearing mainly due to the stick and slip issue and but again price is cheaper. The only bush type I would use is the Igus bearing but again that is my pref.

Saying all that it would be easy for you to sleeve unto the size you need.

Thanks for posting so many other parts... and new pics.

From your pics it doesn't look like you're using the Taz6 type bearings in the extruder X axis (and can't see the Z axis) ... that's why I was searching for a alternative above. I didn't see that in your new parts list either (hope I didn't miss it)

Can you tell us what bearing(s) you're using for those?

updated the list

LM10LUU long or you could use the 10mm short for the Z axis
LM12UU short for the X axis carriage bearings
The 608 skateboard bearing for the leadscrew bearing

Thank you so much...this really helps.

Ah... I realized I had another question .. surprise, surprise ;)

What can you tell us about your 300x300 bed .. where you got it, is it 12 or 24v, etc ..


In the description

" I am currently waiting for my designed ali bed to be cut for 24v 300x300mm BigBed from reprap.me. "

... another clue would be the pic of the bed and the big white letters saying the same thing... lol

What country are you in?? there is a suppler in AUS with a 12V version.


Well.. of course it is ... but then - I'm a guy .. and can't see anything unless someone points it out ;)

I'm in the US


Loving your progress so far. Do you mind if I ask, how much you've spent so far and are the parts printed in ABS or PLA?




Price lol I have no idea... ok going off a quick list of parts it would be about $600 without a extruder... maybe a bit less but that would be a budget that covered everything down to screws I'd say.

I should show pics of it running I have been using this printer for months. I am just waiting to upgrade the 200x300 bed to the 300x300 bed.

I print all my parts in PLA. I do this just because of making sure they are straight and not warped. They say PLA is good for 5 years so 4 years time I'll think about printing a new set of parts :)

Cool. Thank you for the information.

Pictures would be awesome.

Are you still planning on writing a BOM for it?


I will when I finish it off.

Pigbob is building one... as you see below, so his feed back will help. I supposed to be building another one for the Uni but that hasn't been set in stone yet.

The problem for me is the more I look at it the more I pick faults in the whole Lulzbot design.


i'll put some pics up once I've gotten some more parts, all i have at the moment is 90% of the printed parts. ordered some hardware from aliexpress so will update once they have arrived.

Awesome :)

It'll be cool to see.

How much have you strayed from the Lulzbot electronics? I know you said you were using the E3D extruder setup, are you using a similar electronics setup to the taz or gone a different route? are you using the self leveling setup that the Taz 6 has?

Sorry for the multiple questions :)

Ramps 1.4 with 3DTouch (same as BLTouch) for Automatic Bed leveling. As mentioned E3D Titan Extruder and E3Dv6 hotend.

Added 2 pics showing the 3DTouch. (note. that hotend is a clone with a E3D silicone boot on... changed it now)

Thanks, need to start planning it out now :)

Are you happy with the results you get?

I get very good prints as good as any pints you see in pics on the net from a FDM printer.

I have 2 issues only... 1 the TR10x2 lead screw I bought is not straight and I need to buy a better quality one. 2. the printer is big so needs a Big Box to make better to print anything other than PLA.

Hi Anthony
I've just about finished all the printed parts and noticed your y end plates use different shaped bars? what shape are these?

The Y axis is designed for Supported Linear Rail not for the normal smooth rod rails. This because standard smooth rods are not straight, well they can be but most I buy are not but these rails a very straight in comparison.

The design is ment to be upscaled, so you can have a bigger heavier bed... mine has a 300x300 bed but something like 400x400 or the Wombot 500x500 beds.

You could use a STD Smooth Rod Bed like the original or say a WIlson II. I'll upload the STL files so you have a choice but you would have to reprint the end plates for smooth rods sorry.


hey there just yesterday i decided to make my own taz 6 and downloaded all the stl's from their website... would you recommend printing your designs as it seems it doesn't require many of the custom metal parts as the real one. for example their lead screws looks totally custom to their design and looks expensive. can you use a threaded rod in your design? cheers.

My design works and I use it everyday as you see it. The leadscrew I used was 10x2 I bought from ebay here http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/291886413501 and the Brass nut I bought separate here http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/272405351876 which they say they are out of stock but if you look at the table you will see the size and pitch of the holes.

To be honest any lead screw but you have to think about the bottom where it goes through the bearing... the bearing is 608z skateboard bearing which is 8mm so if you use a 10mm or bigger leadscrew you need to turn the end down to 8mm by aprox 30mm to go through the bearing and into the coupler.

Now to get away from machining you could use the standard TR8 leadscrew and just make/buy a 8mm color (openbuilds sell them or on ebay) and lock it off to run on the bearing. You would then have to make an adapter plate or re drill the tr8 nut and make it attache to the ZX axis.

The design is pretty rigid and I see no need for any extra brackets.

The only tricky bit for some people will be the nut inserts but its a piece of cake. Have a m3 by 50 or 60mm bolt and a heatgun. Heat up the brass nut screwed onto the end of the bolt. Push the hot brass nut into the hole... not far and try not to wiggle at all and hold it straight till it cools. Now it did all in free hand but if you setup a drill press with the part in the jaws and the bolt in the chuck, align it all up and do the same it might make it easy to keep it steady... if you wiggle it too much as the plastic cools you end up messing the hole and bond.

rest is pretty straight forward... if you need more details just ask. I used a Ramps 1.4 with DRV8825 drivers and if needed I can give you my firmware as a start point... assuming you have std nema17 motors etc.


Hi Antony

thanks for the great response. I've just started yesterday printing the taz parts four done so far!! early days yet and probably wont be ready for a few weeks due to limited budget. I have a da vinci xyz and it's giving me great results but just want something to build. I did have a kit set ez3d but that was shit. they didn't last long and a lot of people lost a lot of money.
thanks also for the parts list going to help a great deal. those inserts look like they'll fit well and only across the ditch from here so should cost too much. will keep you updated on the progress and add photos too.
kind regards

You in NZ ? there maybe someone there who has them... if you get stuck let me know you only need like 6 of them I could help you out there.


yeah nz here. will let you know as i progress.. should be an interesting project.